Study Abroad in Turkey, with University of Kansas

Too Many Memories to Count

2011-07-11T14:04:00.003-05:00

I'm finally back in the States after being abroad for a month and I am so happy to be back! Don't get me wrong I had a wonderful time, in fact I had an absolutely fan-freaking-tastic time! Looking back the thing that weighed on me the most was all the traveling, living in hotels and out of a suitcase for a month. After I counted I realized I stayed in 11 different places throughout my travels in Turkey and Greece. That is roughly staying every place for 2.7 days, although we stayed some places longer and others shorter the moving is what got to me in the end. I really do think I could live abroad, I think I could even live abroad in Turkey (maybe after a needed Turkish class), but living abroad is different than traveling abroad. I would like to have my own place, not live out of a suitcase, make friends, you know all the things you do where ever you live. I almost felt that I had been living in Istanbul once my parents got there. It was as if I was showing off the new city that I lived in. I was so proud of what I had learned and everything I knew about the city and how well I knew to get around on my own. It was great because I knew where everything was and some history (thanks to Selime), but then we left for Greece and I left my new home again, probably never to return.

The things I missed most while I was traveling were (I figured I'd make a list since everyone else did):
1. Cheese its
2. Ice
3. Air conditioning
4. People waiting their turn in line!
5. People not standing close to me. You know how Americans stand super far away from each other, like we all smell or something? Well I like that! I don't like people standing awkwardly close to me, especially at atms!
So I guess going abroad did make me realize that I do love America, even though it has a lot of bad things, it has a lot of really great things that I missed. Don't get cocky America, you're not that great!

Things I miss about Greece and Turkey now that I am back in the States:
1. Friendly, helpful, hospitable people
2. Trendy clothes
3. Really cheap stuff!
4. Mosques and minarets
5. Beautiful views everywhere
6. Istanbul!

The trip really was fantastic. I love meeting new people, making new friends, and going to new places. I had never been anywhere like Istanbul and probably never will again because it is so unique! I was definitely sad to go, but I am happy to be back. Now that I am home everyone wants to know how my trip was and really all I can say is amazing because so much happened and so many memories were made that it is hard to spill out all the information I learned in a five minute span. I think if people want to really know what Istanbul is like, they should go there and find out!

I'm a Turkophile.

2011-07-06T00:12:00.006-05:00

It’s impossible to pick just one thing I love most about Turkey. In fact, the thing I am most pleased to have taken away from my experiences in Turkey, is my new found respect for the Turkish people and their country. I find myself revisiting the old, yet busy, streets in my mind. My daydreams include touring Hagia Sophia, hearing a call to prayer, or cliff jumping into the Mediterranean Sea. I even think of the friends I made during my adventures there.

When discussing Turkey with my friends here in the United States, I struggle to convey into words the things which I loved. It is impossible to describe Hagia Sophia, Mt. Olympus, Taksim Square, or even just the excitement of being in Istanbul, and feel that you are doing a proper job of explaining any of these things. To appreciate Turkey’s people, culture, history, and it’s tradition of progress, one must physically visit Turkey. You can’t appreciate how far Turkey has come, if you have not learned about what it once was. I feel lucky to have been able to learn about Turkey firsthand and from the Turks themselves.

I can say confidently that I am not the same after having such an experience abroad. My interests and my opinions have changed significantly and I feel better off because of it. I will cherish the friends I made and the experiences I was able to have with them. This really is KU’s best kept study abroad secret and the experience of a lifetime.

Finally, I have my own list of advice for the next group:

1) When learning how to say ‘thank you’ in Turkish, don’t be like me. Practice pronunciation with the group and make sure you can say it right. Otherwise you might accidentally say something inappropriate.

2) Spend a little extra for an experience. I recommend Kadir’s Treehouses in Olympus for your free weekend, and go sea kayaking. It was worth every lira spent. We made some awesome friends. Cliff jumping was awesome.

3) Sunscreen is expensive there. Pack two bottles (minimum) in your suitcase. And aloe. You will need it, and won’t regret it.

4) Learn to haggle. Not to brag, but I got pretty good at it.

5) Try Raki.

Reflections

2011-07-01T13:45:00.000-05:00

Since coming back home I have been fairly busy and I am just now getting a chance to sit down and write my wrap up blog about my experience. It has come to my attention over the last week that I have no good way to write in a clear and concise manner what occurred over the last month of my life. How do you take the best experience of your life and write it into a neat little blog? I do not know the answer but I will attempt to do so, however I will probably fall short of my goal. There are no words to express the deep love and admiration I have for the people and the places that we traveled to in our much too brief encounter with Turkey. I learned so much about the people and the culture that when my friends ask how my trip was I fall short and answer simply, "It was amazing!" This is how I feel, and in truth and it cannot fully explain what this trip meant to me. For those of you who have not been out of the country, I do not suggest starting with Turkey. This is simply because a place this magnificent cannot help but to soil the impression of the other countries that you may visit. To elaborate on this I will explain some of the facets that I found the most fascinating and enlightening during my stay.
The people who inhabit Turkey were hands down my favorite part of the culture. The Turkish people that we encountered were some of the nicest people that I have ever met. They are always welcoming and ready to assist people when they need it, and trust me we needed it, they are curious about your life and what your plans for the future hold. It is truly refreshing to visit a place where you get the impression that the small talk matters to the other person. I never felt awkward or out of place despite being an american that was unable to speak the native language and I truly appreciate that sense of community. Another aspect of community that I was unfamiliar with was the connection of neighbors, even in a city the size of Istanbul, it is out of place for people not to know their neighbors which is a rarity in the states.
Another aspect of Turkey that I felt was unique was the sheer amount of history contained in a country that is not very big. Everywhere that you look you will find some object that is over two thousand years old and that to me is remarkable! We visited so many locations that have stood through several civilizations and remain standing today. This history prompted me to imagine all of the people that came before us, people that I have heard about and read about in history books. This is an amazing sensation and for me made the universe seem connected and that we are all part of a "circle of life," there will be people who stand in these same ruins hundreds or thousands of years from now and imagine the same things. It is truly remarkable to think that this has occurred and will continue long after I leave this mortal coil.
One huge part of Turkish life that fascinated me was the political realm. I truly believe that having knowledge of the government and the people that are running for office is an important part of life and should not be overlooked. The Turkish people seem to be of the same opinion as myself as they all are acutely aware of who is running, what the possible changes that the person could bring, how the government works and they take this knowledge to heart. Turkey consistently has a high voter turnout rate, in fact the past election Turkey boasted an 87% turnout rate, which is remarkable.
Overall my experience in Turkey was life changing, I am enrolling in Turkish in the fall and by next summer I should be able to go back to my new favorite place. For anyone who wonders if they should try the study abroad program out, I say a resounding yes. Turkey is a hidden gem in the world scope and has so much to offer everyone that if you ever get a chance to visit, please do not hesitate!

In the end, it never really ends

2011-06-27T20:34:00.002-05:00

I’ve been told in order to get over a lover it takes one month for every week you dated. Well, it’s been about a week since we left Turkey and I don’t think three months will be long enough. Luckily, I’ve taken some pieces of Turkey to sustain me for a bit. What did they do before digital cameras and Skype?

I think the thing I miss most about Turkey is being able to wear my curiosity goggles shamelessly. As a 25-year-old, you have a “why” daily quota; one I fill to the point of slightly sloshing over the edges when moved. When in another country, people find it refreshing that you want to understand them. When in the country of your origin, you’re supposed to know why people can’t bring their dogs into grocery stores and why some people only hug with their shoulders.

For the next few weeks, I’ll continue to ask questions of Turkey. Why is a country with such a rich history scared of their own culture? Should they be? Why is the media filtered when the average citizen freely speaks their mind?

Because we were free to interact with the culture in our own way, I have more than enough questions. However, I think Turkey is still searching for some of the answers, and the rest of the world is sitting back and speculating. I’m happy to join the crowd.

A Few Tips For the Next Group:

1. Bring a water bottle: You’ll want to fill it up at the hotel every morning. Otherwise, you’ll have to buy water throughout the day.

2. Make as many contacts as possible: And hang out with them! You only have the opportunity to meet and talk to the locals once.

3. Go somewhere in or around Antalya on your free time: We went to Kadir’s Treehouses in Olympus and it was SWEET. I’ve been told the whole region is nice.

4. Bring sunscreen: AND wear it.

5. Try everything! I can’t stress it enough. It may cost you a bit more in the end, but the investment pays off.

But...Where's the Apple Tea?

2011-06-26T23:08:00.004-05:00

Well, I got home. After about 20 hours of travelling while having what I suspect was food poisoning, it’s good to be back. The first meal I had in the US was a burger, fries, and Oreo mint shake at Steak n’ Shake. If that doesn’t say “I’m proud to be an American,” I don’t know what will.

But regardless of free water, ice cold air conditioning, and the good ol’ Kansas countryside, I can’t help but notice my change on my outlook of life and the world. That’s kind of hard to miss. I try to tell people about my experience in Turkey, and I just can’t say it all. For some things there are no words. How do I explain the awe that made me feel weightless in one of the beautiful mosques, with people praying and giving their devotion as I stood out like a sore thumb in a sacred space? How do I explain the tingling in my fingers when I touched an ancient column—a column that someone else laid their hands upon thousands of years ago? How do I describe the feeling of immersing oneself in a culture that has so many misconceptions in Western eyes? I’ve been trying to contemplate all these things the past few days. When someone asks “How was Turkey?” I wish I had a flowchart or something. People have yet to ask me “What did you learn in Turkey?” and that might be a good thing, because I still have been sorting that out. Let’s see, what did I learn? List time!

1. It’s never worth what they say it is.
2. Marble is NOT A GOOD WALKING SURFACE.
3. Never say “tashak” unless you want to be laughed at.
4. Some guy named Ataturk was important or something.
5. All people of any nationality cannot resist the awful catchiness of “Blow” by Ke$ha.

And the list goes on, but those are definitely the top five.

But the most important question to ask is, “Was it worth it? Was it worth all that money you paid?” I say that it is always worth it to expand your worldview. In fact, in this day and age, it’s the most vital thing I could ever do for myself. In America, where we tend to lump the world’s population into two groups of Westerners and Easterners, I grew up there were two sides to everything. You’re either a respectable person, or you’re a Muslim terrorist (or a Commie). You’re either a highly logical student of philosophy, or you’re a backwards Bedouin who don’t know left from right. After visiting a country that was influenced by both Western and Eastern powers and ideals, my belief that the world wasn’t black and white became solidified. In fact, I would just throw away the whole black and white analogy, gray shades in between and all. The world is colorful. I could go on a philosophical diatribe here, but I’ll spare you.

Bottom line is, there is much to learn from Turkey. You can learn what it means to be secular and a democracy by looking at the successes and failures of Turkey’s government and civil society. You can learn the deep connections between three major religions, and even walk where some of the first believers of each religion walked. You can learn about a crossroads of the world by looking at the shores of a sea that borders three continents and cradled the beginnings of many civilizations. You can learn what it means to be a human being, when just a smile bridges languages, religions, and how rich one is.

That’s what I learned in Turkey.

Capital

2011-06-21T06:04:00.002-05:00

There are some sociological concepts and theories that I have great respect for and have fallen in love with. One of these concepts that I find most fascinating was written by Bourdieu, which that in a nutshell states that there are three types of capital which people have on varying levels and the interplay of these determines your social standing. The three types are divided into social capital, (who you know and their connections), cultural capital, (what you know about culture i.e. art/music) and the rather straightforward economic capital. This is an oversimplification of the theory but it will suffice so that my story makes sense to those who are unfamiliar with Bourdieu.
The morning started out with a simple lecture in which we discussing the climate and culture of recent Turkish politics. Then Elif asked what we would like to do over the last few days so that we had a little background on the papers that we will write when we get back. Sarah said she was thinking about writing on journalism and the lack of free speech in Turkish media. Elif mentioned that she had a friend that works for ATV (one of the major Turkish networks) and she would give him a call. This is when the capital exchange and for me the magic happened. Elif has a good deal of social capital because of her experiences as an educator and as a native of Istanbul and is able to leverage some types of capital for others. This was the case which allowed us to visit the news station, she used her social capital to gain us admission and we in turn from the experience gained cultural and social capital. This was a super interesting experience for me particularly because it’s a theory that has made sense to me and seeing it work in action was a validation of sorts.
When we actually arrived at the station it felt like we were treated like very important people. This was due to the fact that Elif’s friend is a producer and has large amounts of social capital in the station as well as in Turkey in general. We were given the chance to interview an executive editor as well as an anchor and a journalist. Throughout the conversations with the staff at the station we gained insight into how the news media functions and its role in national politics as well an experience that not many people have the opportunity to indulge in. This unique experience resulted in an increase of the cultural capital for the group. Now that I have seen the exchange of the forms of capital as laid out by Bourdieu I have a deeper respect for the field of sociology. It is now readily apparent to me that I have chosen the perfect field for myself and I am excited to more of the theoretical transform into reality.

SURPRISE you're meeting someone famous.

2011-06-17T11:14:00.001-05:00

Imagine you’re sitting in your classroom, minding your own business learning, when the teacher gives a call and lands you an interview with Johnny Depp, President Obama, and Jet Li, and then a tour of the set of Star Wars to top it all off. Well that didn’t happen. But really that’s okay—SOMETHING MUCH COOLER HAPPENED. Professor Andac called one of the major news companies of Istanbul and got us an interview with the editor, anchor, and a journalist, as well as a tour of the studio and meeting another major news anchor to add icing to the cake. I know approximately 0.0% of you will agree with me in saying that it was so fascinating and exciting, but bear with me here and let the nerd in me take flight.

First of all, it was completely unscheduled and unplanned. One moment we were discussing the subject of freedom of the press in Turkey, and the next moment a couple phone calls were made and we were madly rushing to get to the hotel and look decent before heading to the studio. You know, no big deal.

First we met with the editor. As we sat down in his office, I couldn’t help but notice several flat screen TVs on the wall, all showing a different news channel. Actually, TVs were everywhere—hanging from the ceiling, on walls, and there was probably one on the back of the bathroom door (though this is pure speculation). The editor didn’t really speak English because he’s and “old school journalist,” meaning he entered the career before America demanded everyone know English. We (and by “we” I mean Sara) asked questions about the role of the media in Turkish peoples’ everyday lives, their role in the recent election, how they differ from others on their perspective on events, and freedom of the press. One subject that struck me as odd was the view the editor held about freedom of the press. As some may know, the Turkish government has thrown journalists in jail for not being in alignment with the party in power—something that is very wrong in American and European eyes. The editor didn’t consider it a big issue, and thought it was something that just happened. You’d think as a journalist he would want to be free to print something against the government if he wanted, but later he revealed that his news company was pretty much aligned with the party in power (AKP) anyway. Take that as you will, I just hope that that attitude changes amongst Turkish journalists.

Talking to the anchor and journalist was also very insightful. The anchor, Defne, spoke perfect English and with only a slight accent, was interested to know young Americans’ perceptions of Turkey and Istanbul. The journalist we met also asked us about our perceptions before and after coming to Turkey—and she also added valuable and honest insight as a person of Turkish descent who lived in London and Germany as well as Istanbul. She acknowledged the problem with self-censorship in journalism and how the government restricted progress for the Turkish people in some ways. Everyone can only hope that the people will make the right decision that will lead Turkey to a more progressive and democratic country.

Overall, it was a day I did not expect. Dear Tomorrow: I dare you to top it.

ATV Television or Elif Knows Everyone

2011-06-17T11:04:00.005-05:00

Our morning started with a lecture on Turkish history by the Bosporus Sea. Not too shabby if you ask me. However, since this is Istanbul, something amazing always happens. Elif called up an old friend of hers to see about getting some information on Turkish media for Sara. Within an hour a private tour had been arranged for us at ATV Television (we call that social capital in the field of Sociology). We all rushed back to the hotel so we could look a bit more appropriate, and we headed to the station.

Once there we met the Executive Editor, Cengiz Er, and he spent about twenty minutes of his time answering numerous questions about journalism in Turkey. In his office, five televisions run continuously behind us and his eyes subtlety scan over them every few minutes. On his desk are a large stack of papers from many different news sources, and his office is home to many books. He is a very nice man, but speaks no English. While translating for him Elif tells us “he is an old school journalist who didn’t need to know English.” Our time with him is short but valuable.

Next we met Daphne. Upon entering Daphne’s office she stands to greet us and shakes each of our hands. Her eyes make fierce contact with each of ours and immediately you can sense she is a very strong woman. Daphne’s English is perfect, and besides one or two words, her accent sounds like she could have been from the Midwest. She inquires about views on Turkey before and after our trip. We talk about how friendly and safe Turkey is but that we were surprised by it. What is most interesting during our conversation with Daphne is her work experience over twenty years in journalism. She told us that when she did daytime news for three months, many complaints were filed against her because she was not easy to understand. She clarified that her vocabulary is very extensive and too dense for a daytime Turkish viewer. Daphne also went on to discuss how much higher news ratings are in Turkey compared to the United States, and along with that, how much higher voter turnout is during elections. When it was almost time for her to go on air she thanked us for our time (this woman was incredibly polite), and we continued our tour.

Later in the tour we found ourselves in the news room during a developing story on the Syrian refugees and Angelina Jolie’s visit to the refugee camp. The pace at which the people worked was intense and they scrambled and shouted to pull up archived footage for the story. We watched them piece together an important story in just a matter of minutes. After the story was over we were introduced to the news anchor, she firmly shook our hands, and rushed off the set saying “I hope you have a great rest of your trip!”

The final anchor, whose name none of us can remember or pronounce, was the most relatable. She was young, spoke with a British accent, and was very sweet. She talked a lot about censorship, her views on different news organizations, and how she thinks Western news sources portray Turkish politics in a very negative light. What struck me most about her was how she quickly sat down close to me, and spoke as though she were college peer. In fact, I can’t remember a single time that she stopped smiling. Our conversation was short but packed full of information on Turkey (both serious and fun). At the end, she wrote down a list of cost friendly clubs and sent us on our way.

Overall, the experience was amazing. I suggest that if anyone truly wants to learn about free speech issues in any country, a news station is the place to be.

ATV Television Part I

2011-06-17T11:00:00.002-05:00

The plan for today was to go to a local coffee shop by the Bosphorus strait and place Turkey’s political climate into a more recent context. The last time we discussed Turkish politics/history we were still in the Ottoman Empire. So, the biggest part of the lecture would cover Ataturk. We left the hotel around 10 am and got to a quaint little coffee shop. The discussion/class was going great. We were able to fill all the little crevices in our knowledge with bridges of information and it was at this time that I decided I’d really like to talk about freedom of speech/press in Turkey for my research paper.

We talked until noon and then we started discussing what Istanbul sites might be helpful to gather the last bit of information for our topic. I voiced my idea about talking to the local press and my professor jumped on it. She said she had a connection at a Turkish TV station. We talked back and forth about background reading until both the professor and I were pumped about the topic. At this point, she called her contact.

I sat there with a huge goofy smile as she spoke with her contact in Turkish. Having no idea what she was saying I began making up my own dialogue. I was halfway through scripting how impressed this acquaintance would be with my knowledge of Turkish politics when she placed her hand over the mouthpiece to tell us we would be headed to the news station in 30 minutes. My first thought was this is all happening way too fast. I need to practice the 10 Turkish words I know. How can I work in counting to five in conversation? Wait, I need to read more about the Turkish media. Who is he? What is this news station? I need to brush my teeth.

Our professor sent us a PDF concerning the recent controversy about censorship as we left the coffee shop. Thoughts whizzed through my head as we grabbed food and hopped in the van. I plopped on the bench seat and scrolled through the 86-page PDF looking for the executive summary. I managed to read through the preface and summary pulling my head away from the monitor every now and again to ask questions. “Was the investigation of Ergenekon intended to be like the truth commissions in South Africa? How do you pronounce Doğan Group? For whom does Gareth Jenkins report?”

I managed to write down five or six question by the time we got to the hotel. We ran to our rooms, changed clothes, and jumped back in the van. I was practicing pronouncing Ergenekon and Doğan as we pulled up to the studio. I knew I was being very bold by thinking I might be able to bring up these issues, but in the end if it came down to having to ask lame questions about what it’s like to be a reporter in Turkey I can bullshit without practice.

The huge window ridden buildings were as intimidating as American media conglomerates. Apparently, the business world’s desire to see its reflection extends past America. Three or four guards and an x-ray machine guarded the main entrance. In addition, every door we passed through required sliding a plastic card over a sensor: much like an electronic hotel key.

We opened the door to the ATV newsroom and were greeted by our professor’s acquaintance. He motioned for us to follow him. As we turned the corner to the open room I immediately felt at home: rows of computer monitors accompanied by rolling chairs and stress-ridden journalists filled the floor. TVs were mounted in every corner of the ceiling. Buffalo Wild Wings doesn’t have shit on this place.

We followed our new acquaintance to his desk where he made a few phone calls. He told us we would be speaking to Daphne (a well-known ATV national television reporter). We chatted for a bit while we waited. He left for a moment and returned saying that the Executive Editor of ATV Television was in his office at the moment and was willing to talk with us. Our professor turned to me and asked, “Would you be interested in speaking with him?” I shrugged, “Sure, I guess. Executive Editor of a Turkish news station, I guess we can spare a moment for him. NBD”

We followed in wide-eyed bewilderment as our professor led us to his office. Through his glass wall, we could see him on the phone. As we waited for him to set down the receiver, I leaned over to our professor and asked, “Is this network part of the Doğan group? I didn’t have time to look it up on the way here.” She told me to ask her friend. I leaned over to him and repeated my question. He shook his head and said no several times as he motioned for us to walk in the Executive Editor’s office. There were only four chairs sitting in front of his desk; we waited to sit until more were pulled in from the newsroom. Our acquaintance placed a chair behind me and whispered into my ear, “We are a network that supports the state. We are in opposition to Doğan Group.”

I sat down and attempted to process this information as we made introductions. My first thought was crap, crap, crap don’t say anything offensive.

It became obvious our interviewee did not speak English. He dismissed this fact by saying he’s and old school journalist. As a result, our professor had to interpret for us. I wondered if I should be looking at him as she talked, as is the custom when a professional interpreter is used. However, he seemed to be talking to her. So, I followed suit: looking back-and-forth between her and him as they spoke. After she briefly explained what we are doing in Turkey, she asked us if we had any questions of him. Everyone looked straight at me. Apparently, this was my moment to shine.

I wanted to pull out my laptop, but I also wanted to get candid information. As a result, I decided to be as active in the conversation as I could without speaking the language. I’m not sure which question I asked first, but I’ll regurgitate what I do remember:

I said that in America, we desire our media to be transparent (of course our desires are rarely met). Then, I asked where his media organization fell in accordance with objectivity. I was surprised by how candid he was. He said his organization was right of center (they are pro-government/pro-AK party). He went on to say that he believes there is one truth, but that you have to read several papers to get to the truth. He pointed to the stack of newspapers on his desk. Along with the eight or so TV monitors mounted on the walls of his office I gathered that the truth is a hard animal to catch.

I said that the West has applauded Al Jazeera on their coverage and involvement in the uprising in Egypt. Then, I asked him whether he believed the media in Turkey was taking part in social change or if they were merely reporting on the change as it took place. First, he said that the Turkish media also applauds Al Jazeera in their coverage of the ongoing Middle Eastern revolutions. Then, he said that Turkish media also plays a large part in social change. Their part in the recent elections has been very important. They hold debates and discuss opinions, just as American media does during presidential elections.

He said freedom of press is written into the Turkish constitution and plays a valuable part of the process. However, when one party has a lot of control it is natural that the press becomes more sensitive to the majority party. He went on to say that the Western world is quick to point fingers at Turkey for its supposed lack of freedom of the press, but – in reality – the press in Turkey is not a backward institution.

Before leaving his office, I was given the opportunity to ask one more question. I asked what he thought about Western media’s coverage of the elections. He said he believed it was pretty accurate with the exception of a few pieces by the Economist. He said he felt these pieces were VERY bias and lacked integrity. As a subscriber to the Economist, I left his office holding my tongue.

The Media's Power

2011-06-17T10:44:00.001-05:00

Today we got to experience something that most students, or people for that matter, will never get to experience in their lives. As we were sitting in a café on the Bosporus sipping on our chi and apple tea, Elif decides to call up a friend that works for a major television network station in Istanbul. Atv Television is the television station, and within an hours time we are on our way to see the station and meet the news anchors! When we first arrived at the station we were all standing around uncomfortably and confused as to why we are getting this privilege to enter, as were the people working there. As we walked by they were all staring at us, obviously knowing we were Americans and wondering why we were exploring their office on this Friday afternoon.

Elif meet up with her friend and he led us into the office of the Executive Editor, Cengiz Er. Even more astonished now we walk into his office and each introduced ourselves, as if we might be important people. We each take a seat and Cengiz excuses himself in Turkish saying that he does not speak English, because in his generation it was not important to learn. The first thing I notice when we walk in is the large stack of newspapers sitting on his desk, one that is open that he was reading just moments before we entered. Although we were at a television station, they have to keep up with all the other news sources constantly. Along with the newspapers, there were six televisions on his back wall, so he was continuously be watching his news station and his competitors. Even during our conversation he would scan the televisions behind us and bring his attention right back to the conversation, but still keeping in mind all of the news streaming behind us. Obviously being an important man at the station, we did not want to take too much of his time, so after we chatted for a bit we walked over to another office.

The next office we entered was no let down either. We come to realize that the beautiful woman sitting at the desk in front of us is one of the news anchors for the station, Daphne. She is the anchor of a nightly news segment, and although she said she had been in the business for 20 years, she looked as though she was 30 at the oldest. She spoke English, because she was younger, so we could communicate with her much better. She was interested to know what our perception of Turkey was before we came and now, as most people here are. As I have written before, I really knew nothing about Turkey before I entered the country. I knew it wasn’t a desert with camels, but what it was, I did not know. Then I realized, being in a newsroom why I knew nothing about Turkey, because American news stations do not broadcast anything about Turkey. Sure, we all hear and see pictures of Iraq and Syria all the time, but Turkey is never on the agenda for American news stations. So if there is no coverage of the Turkish news, how could I know anything about it unless I did other research on my own?

Many people were worried about me going to Turkey because of the bordering countries on the East side, solely based on the violence that occurs their on television. However, Istanbul is actually a cosmopolitan city and extremely westernized, yet we only see that parts that want to be seen by American news stations. After we talked to Daphne, we met another very nice woman who worked for the station. She had only worked for the station for a month and a half, but had been in the business in London for many years. She told us a story of when Hilary Clinton came to the station she worked at in London and it was her job to introduce her to everyone and get her to where she needed to be on time. When it came for Hilary to do her interview, she was told by Hilary’s people that she would not go on the air unless Hilary’s people got to choose the students from a specific university that would be in the interview with her and that the women all had to be wearing burqas. And then it all made perfect sense. Of course we all know news stations are biased and only show what they want the viewer to see, but this real life example took me to the extreme. The United States only wants the perception of the Middle East and surrounding countries to be of suppressed women wearing burqas, even though in Turkey most women don’t wear the full burqa, usually only a headscarf, but many more now a days don’t wear anything to cover their heads at all.

It was so interesting to then travel to the newsroom, where they were doing live coverage and having a television show right in front of us. With people in the newsroom shouting out orders in Turkish to get the right pictures and images that they wanted on the screen. But those images are all chosen very wisely and everything that the viewer sees is never random. Whether in Turkey or the United States the media plays the largest role in how we perceive other countries, it is how we get our news, and it is what we rely on. Without it we would know nothing about the outside world, but with it you have to look at it with an objective eye to distinguish what is truth and what is being played to catch the viewers attention and leave a specific image in their minds.

Istanbul or Izmir?

2011-06-17T09:51:00.002-05:00

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, Ankara (the capital) is the second, and Izmir is the third. Izmir has the second largest port, behind Istanbul. With Istanbul and Izmir both on the coast, and being very large cities, one could speculate they would be pretty much the same. You would be very wrong.

Izmir is described by those who live there as having a much slower way of life. The constant hustle and fast pace life of Istanbul is not found in Izmir, and the locals like it that way. The political landscape of Izmir is also much different. There you will find strong supporters of CHP and a strong resistance to AKP. It also helps that Izmir was the birthplace of the founder of Turkey, Mr. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who founded CHP as the first political party in the Republic.

Personally I love the pace of life in Izmir and, if I were not a tourist, I would settle there over Istanbul. I like that people know their neighbors really well and I imagine the stress level much lower. Along with being very traditional in family and community life, I like how progressive and secular the city is. Izmir is also large enough to have plenty to do when you feel like it and beautiful scenery to go along with it.

As a tourist, and someone who loves big cities, I do adore Istanbul. It is rich with history and culture, and there is never a dull moment. That said if you don’t know how to make yourself slow down you can feel constantly drained. If the rest of the world stopped, Istanbul would keep on turning. Nothing can slow down the people of Istanbul. It doesn’t matter what day of the week it is or even if it is a holiday people are always in the streets, shopping, getting coffee, going to hookah (okay, that is a nice pace of life), or they are out at the bars.

Both cities are wonderful, and great for their own reasons. I think seeing both shows a dramatic difference in city living, and also among the Turks themselves. They are friendly everywhere, some just enjoy moving a little more slowly and taking their time.

Huge CIty vs. Big City

2011-06-15T04:46:00.000-05:00

Istanbul is a sprawling metropolis that ranks as one of the largest cities in the world. The size and the scope shows in the way that people interact everyday. Sirens blare, horns honk and people hustle and bustle every hour of the day. Simply crossing the street is an exhausting adventure with everyone jostling to get across without being smashed by a car that has no regard for pedestrians. As you walk down the street salesmen continually try to get your attention by inviting you in or by calling out to you in English, "Come in and take a look." The streets are a lot like a busy river with millions of fish swimming by trying to get to their destination. This is not a bad thing however, I love the roar of the wild streets and people are still helpful but it can be overwhelming.
However, Izmir is almost the opposite of Istanbul. Comparatively speaking Izmir is a snail to the race horse that is Istanbul. It is still a massive city with a population of around four millilon people, but you would never guess based on how people act. Izmir streets are open and calm, like a gentle stream with a few schools of fish drifting along. It could be due to the fact that Izmir is a coastal city in which a beautiful view can be seen in any direction. The neighborhoods were the most striking thing to me though, each one is a community in which they share gardens, conversations, meals and most importantly lives. It's amazing to me that in a city that size the community is still valued and cherished. Everywhere you go people are willing to lend a helping hand and it's a beautiful thing.

Izmir

2011-06-15T04:31:00.000-05:00

We finally had the chance to stay with a host family during our trip and it was a blast!!! Sinan, who works as a graphic designer and website designer for the tour company that handled our travel arrangements, was our host for the night. Right away he was very friendly and told us that we cold ask anything that we wanted to. He told us that he lives with his twin brother as well as his parents and they have lived in the same apartment for over twenty years. My first impression of the home was that the family did much more with the space that they had then Americans do. Everything has a place and everything goes back into it's place. We then had some coffee on the balcony and talked about hobbies, music, films and other small talk. Sinan and I bonded over our love for rap music, it was fun to quote lyrics back and forth, apparently there are some pop culture aspects that transcend language barriers. Then we talked about elections and what was wrong with AKP and how much he hates the current prime minister. Watching the election coverage was interesting because I could absorb a lot of what was going on simply because they use a format similar to American news. I was sad to see how frustrated Sinan was because of the fear of the reelection of Erdoğan. A lot of Turks fear regressing into a nation that is radically Islamic and does not allow freedom, similar to Iran etc.
     Taking a break from the serious topics we talked about the lighter topic of sports. During my travels in the last month I have grown to appreciate football on a whole new level. Armed with my recently broadened knowledge of football history and current players I was able to converse with Sinan for a while and it was stellar. A program showing the highlights of the Barcelona football club was playing and we both watched in awe of Messe, who happens to be one of the greatest players that ever played.
      At some point during this Songul, the mom, arrived and Sinan was quick to help carry in all the groceries. She didnt speak English but from the expressions of body language and Sinan translating we could tell that she was really happy to invite us in and cook a meal for us. She was a ball of fire that was quick to show affection and ensure that we had everything we needed. The meal was fantastic and very filling.
   The three guys went down to the seaside and we tried to get beer at a cafe but it was election day so alcohol was not allowed. Sinan suggested going to a store and getting some and drinking close to the water, which we happily agreed to. And it was fun until the police arrived, apparently the police are corrupt and love harassing people, thus we were forced to ditch the beer. We made reference to a certain NWA song as the police were combing the beach.
We went back to the house after the sea and had a beer each and talked some more about Turkish culture and such. It's striking how similar yet different how the American and Turkish cultures are. I believe that I have found a new place that I could someday call home. As we were leaving Sinan and Songul both lamented the fact that we were only there for one night as were we. I love this country and the interactions of people. It's truly a hidden gem among the countries of the world.

Chilling with a Turk

2011-06-13T16:05:00.006-05:00

I was excited to do the home stay part of the trip. I was especially exited that we were going to be staying with a woman our age. I didn’t really know what to expect. It was Election Day; So, I guess I expected to watch the elections a bit. Here, they have a law against selling alcohol on Election Day, if only that could prevent all poor judgment.

We met our host outside her house at about 5 pm. She lived in the same area as the boys’ host.

My first impression of her was she was cute. She was wearing a dress that looked like a man’s shirt. It fell at her upper thighs, where it tapered in a bit. She had long brown hair pulled up and olive skin. She was 5-foot-4 with brown eyes.

She looked about 25. Later, I learned that she was 26. She wasn’t very talkative, but she had a way of anticipating your needs. We opened the door to her basement apartment and rolled our bags in. The bottom portion of the doorframe was covered in evil eyes. She flipped off her shoes into a basket next to the door and asked us to do the same.

After directing us to our rooms, she asked the three greatest questions: Were we hungry? Did we need a shower? Did we need to do laundry? We jumped at the laundry offer and decided to wait on the other offers. After starting the laundry, we went into the living room and started to watch TV.

She apologized right away that her attention would be focused on the elections tonight. We all said it was OK. I was interested in seeing the results and reactions to the results. However, after an hour or two it was evident who had won: AKP. I tried to chitchat with her while we flipped back and forth between American television and the elections, but she was very quiet.

She was pretty disappointed to see AKP win. In fact, she didn’t really believe it was possible. However, this seemed to be the result everyone expected. I

think some of her idealism sprouts from the fact that she is young and surrounded by like minded individuals. However, she didn’t like hearing this.

Of course, I would have like to have a more talkative host. Or, to have a larger family to see how they all interact with one another. However, in the end it just goes to show how similar humans are no matter where you go.

What You Can See vs. What Exists

2011-06-13T15:37:00.003-05:00

Let’s say you ask five of your acquaintances how they feel about a certain topic. For this example, let’s say you ask five of your acquaintances how they feel about marijuana. Of those five, four of them say it should be legalized. Now, based on this quick survey you come to believe that most people in your area think marijuana should be legalized. However, when your area is surveyed the numbers say otherwise.

For sociologists, this isn’t a new phenomenon. In fact, most professional surveyors understand the difference between those who are available and those who are representative. However, for the average person understanding that the world you surround yourself with is not representative of the world around you can be a bit surprising.

The difference between what you see and what exists is one of the many troubles in defining a culture. I live in Midwest America, where people wave at strangers and you can leave your car unlocked when you run into the store. However, I know this isn’t the America everyone lives in. In addition, Lawrence is the one blue dot in a red state. Lawrence’s population is full of young, educated, middle-class people. I know that this isn’t the America everyone lives in.

The difference between one town/region/neighborhood in Turkey is as vast as it is in America. In Istanbul, you have a large metropolis. It reminds me of a mix between New York City and Washington DC. Though, it would be interesting to compare it to Ankara. However, Izmir is more like San Diego. I always get a more liberal vibe from coastal towns; because Turkey is surrounded by water, this trend seems to have more to do with the history of the different areas.

Izmir is full of rich farmland. As a result, they have a culture based on trade: this trade is not limited to produce but culture as well. Izmir shares a strong history with Greeks who use to make up a large portion of the population. In addition, the city is known for its young population. As a result, the city has a culture of progress. They do not attempt to cling to the past. Instead, they desire progress forward. They fear strong nationalism and Islamic ties. It is no surprise then that CHP continues to win the vote of the residents of Izmir.

Istanbul is more of a diplomatic city. Since the sultan era, the city deals heavily in commerce. As a result, there is a stronger struggle between new and old culture. There, you see a 50/50 split of women wearing headscarfs. And there, you see the conflict between the East and West of Turkey.

Istanbul Casserole and Izmir Pie

2011-06-13T15:28:00.004-05:00

You know when they say “New York Minute,” it’s really fast? Well in Istanbul a New York Minute is roughly a bajillion times slower than an Istanbul minute. In Istanbul, the car behind you honks if you pause to let passengers out for 30 seconds. On any street, there are a hundred people walking straight at you, avoiding collision at the last second. Shop owners and owners of little stands call out “Yes, welcome, hello, lady, LADY!” All at the same time. I cling tightly to my purse because someone could snatch my wallet out in a millisecond. At any given time, there are probably 10,000 different noises going off, whether people are gibbering in rapid Turkish, cars are honking, or the tsssss of food on a hot grill hisses in my ear. Pair this with the absence of any empty space as people crowd the sidewalk, busses, subway, intersections, restaurants, and shop, and you have an Istanbul Casserole. I love it in a million ways, and yet at night when I try to sleep, I think, “Can a siren not go off for ONE MINUTE?!”

Now let’s take a look at the coast further south, with Izmir. Izmir has about the third the population of Istanbul, and it shows. On the boardwalk beside the bay, people are dotted here and there, and you have enough space to make an American Comfort Bubble (this requires a three foot diameter around yourself). Restaurants aren’t full to the brim and people seem to take things slower, like crossing streets when they're actually empty. Drivers still honk occasionally, but there’s not a constant, cacophonic chorus. You can see green grass on mountains in the short distant, not hills completely covered by buildings like in Istanbul. Izmir is like my grandma's cherry pie, just a few ingredients that meld into a sweet and tangy taste that you can savor.

I was amazed at how Izmir has ancient history and modernity all rolled into one just like Istanbul. Istanbul has countless mosques, museums, Roman and Greek and Ottoman sites (sometimes all in one space), and many other things older than several Americas. Izmir also had a whole ancient agora (shopping place), as well as artifacts dating back several thousand years. A rich history exists in both places in many ways.

While I love my Istanbul Casserole (bad name, I know, just roll with me here), Izmir and the journey to it were pleasant and a nice break for my brain. Istanbul provides a sensory overload, which is fun and exciting, but Izmir gave me a chance to lay back and wonder what I did with the bath towel I brought. Seriously, I think I left it at one of our hotels…oh well. Anyway, I was pleased to see another side of Turkey, and to be continually surprised by her many wonderful secrets.

How I Met Your Mother and Other Essentials

2011-06-13T15:20:00.000-05:00

I’m always a little bit wary about staying in the houses of people I don’t know. Not that I’m not thankful for it—I would rather not be homeless—but there’s always a little fear inside me that I will do something that’s greatly offensive to that host. What if I burp, and that’s the greatest taboo next to dancing around naked?

In order to experience all sides of Turkish customs and hospitality, staying with a host family for one night is on the agenda. This is an excellent idea, but as I said I was a little bit nervous about it. Not knowing what to expect, I sat in our van as the tour guide and driver navigated to the designated house. I knew that Sara, Julie, and I would be staying with a girl “around our age,” which could have meant 16 or 30. I didn’t know anything else.

So we waited until the driver pulled up to a row of apartments with a young woman standing out front. She was petite, with a kind face and a pretty but casual dress on. We heaved our luggage to her apartment and made ourselves comfortable. The first thing she did was ask us to take off our shoes and place them in a bin, and she gave us slippers to wear around her apartment. The apartment was nice, not very much different from my apartment in the US. It had a little kitchen, three bedrooms, a nice open living room, and a couple balconies. Unfortunately her parents were in a summer house at the time, so we didn’t get the whole “traditional family experience,” but seeing how an ordinary young Turkish person spent her night was just fine by me.

On Sunday, 12 June, the elections for Turkey’s parliament were going on. Our host was glued to the TV, anxiously awaiting the results of the country’s decision. Before the numbers started coming in, we watched some American and British TV shows that had Turkish subtitles. How I Met Your Mother was on, as well as Chuck and Camelot. Luckily the shows were in English, otherwise it would have been a lot less relaxing than it was. Later, when the tallies started being counted up, our host watched with disbelief and disappointment when the AKP (the conservative Islamist party) was getting a majority nationwide, and with even more votes than the last election. She had hoped that maybe the CHP (the democratic party) would get many more votes, but the people had spoken. We discussed the similarities and differences between the election process and politics in the US and Turkey. While whichever party gets the most votes in the US has pretty much all the power, parties in Turkey are represented proportionally, which relieves the power monopoly at least a little.

Our host was nice enough to order and buy us take out food, like pizza and pide. We figured she was a little distracted by the elections to want to take too much time to cook, but a mouthful of pide was completely satisfactory. We read and relaxed, and ultimately we had a nice night talking about what it’s like to live in Izmir and Turkey.

My home stay experience was not at all what I expected, but that’s what made it cool. After a week and a half of living in hotels and going to one historical site after another, it was nice to sit down, order food, and watch TV like the good ol’ times.

Host Family of Izmir

2011-06-13T15:17:00.006-05:00

When I walked into my host family’s house for the night, I cannot deny I was slightly hesitant. I was worried it would be awkward and concerned that only one member of the house was able to speak English. I’m happy to say I was completely wrong and it has become one of my most cherished experiences since coming to Turkey.

Upon arriving in Sinan’s house we walk to the back porch where Nate and Sinan chat freely. He assures us we can ask him anything about Turkey and himself, because he will not hesitate to answer any question. I notice Sinan’s amazing hospitality. He is constantly making sure we are comfortable, I feel totally at home.

Conversation stays pretty light for the whole night, except for a couple of comments regarding the election later. We talk about his hometown of Izmir, his conscription in the military at age 20 (he is now 25), his girlfriend of three years, and his siblings who are married, as well as, his twin brother who also lives at home. We asked when he might move out of his parent’s home and he replied that most people do not move out until they marry. When we told him the majority of people move out at age eighteen in the United States, he seemed very surprised.

A little later Sinan’s mother calls. Sinan rushes downstairs to assist his mother with the groceries and he carries them all for her without effort; refusing any help we offered. His mother, Songul, is short and friendly and when she enters she hugs Nate and I right away like we are old friends. She holds Nate’s face for some time and mutters many compliments in Turkish.

As she starts to cook dinner a neighbor shows up unannounced and walks right in. She greets Nate and I, but then joins Songul in the kitchen to help her cook while they listen to Turkish music. While they cook, Sinan turns on football and, upon learning I know nothing about it, he tells me excitedly about his favorite team and other good teams worldwide.

Their neighbor leaves and the food is almost finished. Sinan paces between the kitchen and the living room complaining that he is ‘starving to death,’ and can’t wait for dinner. When dinner is ready, we all sit down together and eat. Although Songul does not speak English, she talks as though Turkish the only language we know. She treats us like her children.

My experience with my host family was one of great value to me. Not only did I make a very genuine connection with these people, but they showed me that many of the differences we expect, actually do not exist. In fact, if the food had not been Turkish I might have forgotten I was in a different country and thought I was at a friend’s house for dinner instead. My experience was different from an American dinner in all of the right ways (food, language, beverages, etc), but the same in all of the important ways (a feeling of connection and family).

I know that if I ever return to Turkey I will, without a doubt, revisit my host family of just one night. I also know that if they visit the United States, I will happily return their hospitality in every way. Before this experience I thought I couldn’t possibly fall more in love with Turkey and its people we know as Turks. I was wrong.

One Point Istanbul

2011-06-13T15:08:00.002-05:00

Istanbul is a city that is go go go and never stops even at night, while Izmir is much more of a relaxed city. The difference between Istanbul’s 20 million citizens and Izmir’s 4 million citizens makes the distinction clear. However, the aspect of this difference that shocked me a lot was that Izmir has a much younger population. Normally I think of younger people as moving faster and wanting to get ahead first, but I supposed when you have 20 million people running around some are old and some are young and they all just blend together. Izmir is on the coast of the country, while Istanbul is actually connecting the European and Asian side of the country. Istanbul having so many connections in commerce and culture makes it very unique. So far from what we have seen I have enjoyed Istanbul more I think because it is so fast paced and there is so much to do everyday. There is so much rich history in both places, but I am more interested in the Mosques and the Churches over than the ruins here in Izmir. This is not to say that Izmir is not amazing, because it is beautiful along the coast and then the ruins from Greek times are also amazing. So it really is hard to choose one over the other.

However, I think the fact that Istanbul was the first place in Turkey that we went to and we spent about eight days there made me fall in love with it. Because the culture and people are so different than anything that I have ever experienced before in my life, it captured my attention and is still holding it. Istanbul seems to have no countryside, while Izmir has much more rural areas and locally grown food and products. Although I know around 4 million people populate Izmir, it is much more spread out than Istanbul and seems like more of a smaller town than a city. For example, today we stopped on the side of the road and bought freshly picked strawberries and crab apples, and olive oil, from a family selling it on the side of the road. To me, that gives off much more of a small town feel. Of course I enjoy being on the coast, which is something that Istanbul cannot offer in the same way. But because so many bodies of water surround Istanbul you still get the coastal feel. There is just something about the pace of Istanbul that keeps my heart rushing and wanting to see more. In Izmir, the pace is slower and much more relaxing.

So yes, I have clearly picked that Istanbul is my favorite of the two although I hate to do that! The people in Istanbul are so diverse and always moving, yet so hospitable. So although, from the election it seems that Izmir is more current with the growing democratic country, it may just be that in Istanbul there are too many people. Too many uneducated people that do not know if AKP or CHP will be better for their country, so they vote for what they know instead of for change. Either way, I am excited to see different places in Turkey throughout the coming days. Then of course I will be delighted to go back to Istanbul and to explore more of the city that I may never have the chance to experience again!

Election Night with the Losing Party

2011-06-13T14:33:00.003-05:00

I really was a little disappointed by my home stay in Izmir. I was expecting a wonderful night with a family eating Turkish food and talking about Turkish culture, but once we got to the home we were staying at for the night. I realized it was gong to be a boring night. Unfortunately the family was gone at their summerhouse and it was only the daughter that was home to host us. She is 25 years old and graduated from school in Finance and Economics. She works with her father and brother in their family company but she did not expand much more on that. Their house was very nice, although more of an apartment, but much nicer than the average Turkish family's house is, I think. Although she was very sweet, for example offering to wash our clothes and order us food, it just did not turn into the night I was expecting.

One thing that made the night more and less exciting than maybe it should have been was that is was election night. Unfortunately CHP lost and the AKP won, as we all expected. However, the girl we were staying with wanted CHP to win and was very upset by the fact that they lost. Izmir went to CHP but the majority of Turkey went to AKP. She said although the AKP is doing good things now, they are afraid of what might happen in the future because they are pushing more Islamist ways. Many of the younger people in Turkey, like our host, want the country to become more Democratic, which is what the CHP supports more.

I did enjoyed our dinner of ordered in pizza and fries, because I am a picky eater. But I think of that food being much more of an American meal in my mind than Turkish, and I was expecting a Turkish feast! However, this morning she did make us a very extensive Turkish breakfast, which always includes chi tea, tomatoes, cucumber, and lots of breads and cheeses. We appreciated all of her kindness in hosting us, the problem was that because it was only her and not her whole family it was hard to talk to just her. This was more of a prominent problem especially because her English, although it was pretty good, was not that good so it was hard to ask very in depth questions because she did not always know what we were talking about.

I would love to stay with another family for a night, or stay with an actual family instead, but it still was interesting to be with a Turkish person the night of the election when the results were rolling in to see how they react to losing the election. It was much in the same way Americans do, but they seem to be more contained because I do not think they have all of the freedoms that we have. It was interesting because in Turkey about 86% of the population voted in this election as opposed to in the US where only around 50% vote. Seeing how important this election was to a Turkish person opened my mind to think that I should become more involved in our elections back home. Hopefully in years to come Turkey can become more democratic to help their people progress into the more Westernized country that the younger generation wants to become.

Haggling 101

2011-06-11T11:10:00.005-05:00

“How much is this?”- Me

“30 Lira.”- Merchant

“I’ll give you 15.” I turn to Sarah and ask “What is this again?”

Haggling is a common and expected occurrence in Turkish culture. Although many malls and other fixed price stores exist in Turkey, a lot of the local merchants hold true to the tradition of price bargaining.

As always, with the good comes the bad. In many areas where one can haggle, the prices are set high for the less savvy tourists who don’t speak the language. When purchasing goods tourists know their money is worth more here and believe they are still getting a good deal, when in fact they are paying twice the cost. In Turkey it’s good to know that the cost of producing things is much lower than in the United States. This might seem like an obvious statement, but if you are not haggling then the merchant is making an outrageous profit.

When one haggles it is usually good to drop the price significantly and work with the merchant from there, but in many cases the price won’t drop much without a native speaker. Many times we have asked the price on something and been given a high price. However when a native speaker or professor Andaç inquires about the price it is usually a little lower.

Some examples of this happening were mostly in the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar. In the Grand Bazaar our group was hunting for some nice fake Ray-Bans. When we asked the price the man said 30 lira. Then, when a boy walked up and asked the price in Turkish he said 20. Professor Andaç was so offended that we left the store immediately, and rightly so.

An even worse example occurred when buying spices and teas. Tabitha made purchase of tea for 45 lira. The next day when we went back a different man offered to sell the same product for 20 lira to Nate. Professor Andaç was outraged and she began arguing with the man in Turkish. Before Nate could buy the product, she took out five lira coin, put it in the man’s hand, and handed the tea to Nate. Ultimately Tabitha and Nate ended up with a fair price after paying five lira that day, but professor Andaç was still not pleased since she frequently visits that shop.

These are just a few examples of price bargaining gone wrong. As in many other places, if you don’t know the language, it’s easy to be taken advantage of. In the future though, we have a new strategy:

“Let’s try this. ‘You want 15? I’m not paying less than 30!’”- Sarah.

Big Shoes to Fill

2011-06-11T00:46:00.000-05:00

Every time we go to a major historical site I am almost overwhelmed. There is such importance both historically and symbolically to the places we visit that make me feel so overwhelmed. Yesterday we went to Ephesus, one of the best preserved ruins of ancient cities, which also served as a capital for several civilizations. As we walked the streets I tried to envision how the city looked in its prime. I try to see the hustle and the bustle of an ancient metropolis. I imagine that on my left the shop keeps are on inviting people to take a look at their wares, the aristocrats strolling down the beautiful mosaics that separate them from the commoners, the businessmen on the right playing backgammon and establishing their trade contracts. Then I try to comprehend the fact that people like Alexander the great walked these very roads and I am blown away. It's absolutely amazing to think that such a small country has such a huge heritage. In America an object that is one hundred years old is "antique;" In Turkey an object one hundred years old is "new." This historical legacy is what makes Turkey unique as well as a deep cultural well, one so deep that one could study it for a lifetime and never reach the bottom. It is the multicultural tapestry that could lead Turkey once again onto the main stage of world affairs. It is Election Day tomorrow and there is a battle to control the helm of this magnificent country. The Turkish people have a choice to either elect a man that will guide them into a more intolerant Islamic nation or to gamble on other parties that could move the nation forward. It is my hope that the Turkish people choose to move forward embracing their rich roots and claim their position on the main stage of world politics. No matter what they choose they have big shoes to fill.

Headscarf

2011-06-10T14:22:00.007-05:00

I consider myself a feminist. I'm more educated than most on the topic - which isn't saying much - and I'm outspoken when necessary. If I had to put everything I know about the topic into a single sentence I'd say it's up to the individual woman. No matter if it's dress, being a stay at home mom or sexual harassment: it's up to the individual woman to interpret her own desires.

Before coming over to Turkey, I'd read about the controversy in France over the headscarf, and again I applied my default: It's up to the individual woman. I'm not sure how I feel about full-body burqas. My hesitance toward them most likely sprouts from my own feelings about how it must feel to wear one. I can't imagine how hot it must be, especially in the Middle East. Also, it's not flattering at all. However, I could totally pull off a headscarf: It's like having beautiful silk as hair. And, you don't have to curl it or blow dry it. It sounds pretty awesome to me.

However, wearing a headscarf isn't just about bad hair days and trying to find something to match that one dress in your closet that's been sitting there for ages. Wearing a headscarf is a religious and - in Turkey - a political statement. A professor in KU's J-school told me about a time when her and her daughter were in France and her daughter had put her scarf over herself head to protect herself from the heat. As a result, she was given dirty looks everywhere she went.

My only other concern with the headscarf is whether or not women are pressured to wear them. Outside of party lines, I wonder whether or not they truly feel comfortable with the idea. Do they have celebrities to look up to with and without the headscarf? Would it be like that horrible dream where you show up to work/school completely naked if for some reason you didn't have it or did have it?

From what I've seen, it seems like women have role models both with and without the headscarf. And, it seems that women on both sides of the issue fear having to make the change due to political motivations.

Another Layer

2011-06-10T11:18:00.004-05:00

Pictured: An attempt to get a good picture of women in burqas. Fail.

Well I’ve been here for about a week now, and I feel I’ve pretty much blended in with the locals. They absolutely cannot spot the difference between me and a native Turk. Don’t worry that I’ve got pale skin, am obnoxiously loud, have an American flag plastered across my chest (I don’t really, those shirts are tacky), and have the Turkish language level of a two year old.

But seriously, it feels as though I have been here much longer than only a week. It may have to do with the large amount of activities we squeeze into every day, or it may be that I’m sitting on a balcony at a five star hotel watching rich people lounge around a magnificent pool by the Aegean Sea.

But being in such a different place and being exposed to a whole host of new people and places has got me noticing just what I never realized about Turkey, and what I realized I didn’t realize but I thought I realized before I really realized it.

Before coming to Turkey, I have never been in a mosque or synagogue. I’ve been raised a Catholic my whole life, and I thought I knew all I needed to know about other religions, and I’ve been completely comfortable sitting in my own nest of ignorance. Now that I’ve actually taken a good look at Islam and disregarded the American Mainstream Media version of it, I now know that it isn’t a requirement to shout hold a burning American flag and shout “ALLAAAAH.” Of course, I never really thought they were THAT extreme, but I never thought that Islam was a very intellectual, calm, and progressive religion. At the time that it was founded, women had next to no rights, probably even less than no rights. A woman’s opinion wasn't worth anything in disputes, and men could take up as many wives as they wanted, disposing whichever ones he didn’t want anymore. After Islam, two women’s opinions would be the same as one man’s, and a man could only take four wives. Considering the circumstances beforehand, that’s a pretty good deal. We might think that’s ridiculous today, but back at that time even Christianity didn’t care that much about women’s status. Or any society for that matter!

Another significant topic in Islam is how women should dress. I’ll be the first to admit that I could never convert to Islam because I can’t understand how women can be in full sleeves and pants with a headscarf (or even go further by wearing all black) in 80 degree weather. That being said, even if I did convert to Islam, headscarves don’t seem to be the absolute requirement. Just like Christians and Jews can be pretty lenient with the rules written in the Bible, Muslim women don’t have to be as plain and covered as possible. I’ve seen women with very decorative headscarves and wearing full make up. There’s a whole range of “devoutness” that Muslim people can fall into, just like other religions. What makes me sad is that Christians (at least Americans) are quick to point out the flaws and restrictions of Islam, while they don’t seem to follow the verse about taking out the log of their own eye. Of course Islamic people have committed atrocities, but so has every other religion, including Christianity. Both Christianity and Islam teach peace, even if they do have verses about war or defeating others.

One of the most surprising phenomena I’ve come across is that Muslim people find churches perfectly suitable to pray in besides mosques. In their eyes, they follow the same God as Christianity and Judaism, and hold a certain respect for their religions. This totally knocked me off my mental feet. But as I entered a mosque for the first time, I felt the same awe I feel when entering a church. I wanted to pay my respects and pray in a space dedicated to a religion that has so many similarities with our own.

So if you’re thinking “too long, didn’t read,” the moral of my rant is that Islam is not what American culture makes it out to be, and everyone should take some time to learn about REAL Islam. Simple as that.

Election 2011

2011-06-10T10:54:00.004-05:00

Before we left for the trip to Turkey we had a group meeting and Elif told us that there was going to be an election during the time that we were in Istanbul. She prefaced it by saying that everyone knew which party was going to win, as if we knew too. Then she corrected herself and said, well I know who is going to win. We all chuckled, but then I thought to myself that I really knew nothing about the government in Turkey. I now know that the Republic of Turkey is a Parliamentary Republic founded by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk in 1923. I think Americans have a stereotype that all Middle Eastern countries are run by corrupt governments ruled by dishonest leaders so I was curious to see if Turkey would be the same. I was excited to learn more about the government of Turkey and how and by whom it is run.

From our book we read, Crescent and Star by Stephen Kinzer, I did learn that much of the government has been very corrupt in the past, ruled and suppressed behind the scenes by militant groups, not allowing different political parties to come into play. However, since 1923 when Ataturk came into power and the Ottoman Empire finally came to a close, the Turkish government seems to be improving rapidly.

In America when the presidential election comes around we all know that that campaigns get a little out of hand, but we only have two dominant parties running so it is not that bad. The commercials, by the end, become unbearable and soon the person you are going to vote for even becomes annoying. From the eight days that I have been in Turkey I am already sick of the election campaigns and I have not even turned on the television. It seems that on every street corner, filling every space, and hanging from every tall building there is a campaign sign for a specific party.

There is the AKParti, which is the party Elif was referring to who is going to win. There is also the Republican's People's Party (CHP), which is the largest other party that might have a chance, and then several other parties, like the Turkish Socialist Party (TSP), along with those two main groups. The billboards of these men are hilarious! Some are smiling way too ridiculously, while most are looking seriously into a random space. Not only are the billboards plastered on every wall and building, then there are these vans that ride around blasting Turkish music campaigning for a specific party. Every time one of these vans drives by it is insanely loud, almost like when an ambulance drives by, but much louder. These vans disturb much of the peace in the areas that they are passing by, but they only there for a second, creating noise pollution, but not much else. The people also hold rallies all the time in support for their party of choice, but there are always protesters there supporting the other party too. We have been trying to avoid getting handed fliers because we don’t want to waste their time since we can’t vote, or read Turkish.

It is interesting when we enter a different part of town and the campaign signs change to a different party. It shows that not just around the entire country, but solely in Istanbul there are many different opinions associated with the election. In one neighborhood we saw several AKParti campaign posters that had been ripped down by residents in the area that did not support them. All the parties also have flags everywhere, each having their own symbols and colors on it, to show pride for what you believe in. Many of the younger people that we have talked to said that they are voting for the CHP, although it seems like not enough to make them win. Our tour guide was telling us that the AKParti, which is party that is in power now, will win because many people like what they are doing, and may not be educated enough to see some of the corrupt things they may be doing. So next Sunday we will see what the outcomes are to the election and see if anything is going to change soon.

Lines of Communication

2011-06-06T00:26:00.000-05:00

A culture is defined in a sort of sense by the language it uses; many things can be gleaned from the way that individuals communicate. The same is very true with Turkish, which is an interesting language that has been influenced by the unique mixture of cultures that have inhabited the region. Turkey is country that has roots dating back to the Hittites and spans the Persian, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires and is currently The Turkish Republic. This is what makes the language so special although it holds a huge amount of challenge for me personally. Arriving in Istanbul the first day I was struck by an utter lack of communication skills. The very first issue that I had was that my checked baggage was left in Paris somehow. (It’s safe now) This was a nightmare for me not because I was worried about my luggage but because I took a separate flight from my group I didn't know where we were staying yet and I was unsure of how to explain the situation in the office. Thankfully the very kind man who was picking up our group from the airport was able to talk to them and let them know what was going on and gathered all the information I needed to get it back. Then after being at the hotel for a little while we ventured down the main thoroughfare of Istanbul. I was struck by how I could barely read any of the signs and as I perked up my ears to catch the local conversations I couldn't make head or tails of it. I feel a little bit lost every time that we try to order dinner or have some other thing that we need to buy. I have to rely on others to do those things for me. This is a drastic difference for me since talking to local people is a large part of the sociology research I would like to do in the future. The one thing that shines through this difficulty is the ambivalence of the Turks. In America for the most part when people that are non-native speakers have difficulties communicating no one steps forward and helps. In Istanbul, I have found that if we are having difficulties communicating then random strangers will intervene and assist us. Even our tour guide, out of the kindness of her heart has been attempting to tutor us slowly in the Turkish language. This refreshing kindness and helpfulness creates a love for Istanbul and in an academic sense makes me ponder what formed the cultural norms of our two countries. On the bright side after hanging out with some of the local Turkish guys I have been able to establish a sort of non verbal communication. While this doesn't carry the weight of a conversation we can share laughs and agreement through this system. All in all I feel like a foreigner here more than anywhere but someday I will master this lovely language.

My First Post

2011-06-06T00:21:00.000-05:00

This is my first blog which was delayed since I was out of the country:

Turkey Approaching Departure:

The last couple of weeks I have been growing more and more excited about my trip in Turkey. I have been talking with many people over the last couple weeks and they have been less than helpful. There still seems to be a huge amount of misunderstanding on what the Turkish culture actually entails, based on what my fellow Americans have sought to tell me. I have heard numerous times that I should be on guard against going to Turkish prisons, which is nonsensical to me seeing as I have never been in legal trouble in the states. The other thing that I have heard numerous times is how much the Turks hate Americans, which is also silly based upon everything I have read and what Elif has told us. And upon inquiry of how they reached such conclusions they simply state they heard it from someone or everyone knows these things. It’s sad to me how ill-informed that Americans are yet they insist that they know the truth. I will not allow these folk tales to taint my views of Turkey as a whole and especially the city of Istanbul. My simple expectation of the country is to learn, I will be an open book ready to soak in a culture that has a deep rich culture. There is a lot to be excited about. I look forward to walking the streets of Istanbul and taking in the sights and smells of a country that is a complete departure from the United States.

Is Everyone Gay?

2011-06-06T00:14:00.001-05:00

The manner in which males interact is bound to be different depending upon the culture setting one is in; so why was I still shocked by what I saw?

In the United States when two men are holding hands while walking down the street, I don’t exactly need a big flashy sign or a rainbow flag that says gay on it to know that the two men are in a relationship. That is not the case for Istanbul, and probably the rest of Turkey. While walking on the streets with our program director Prof. Andaç, I couldn’t help but point out to her that the men were walking awfully close to one another and touching almost the entire time. Sometimes the men would walk holding hands, linked in arm, or with just a few fingers interlocked. She explained that, much different from the United States, men are less concerned about being viewed as gay or effeminate. She also explained that people in Turkey have fewer issues with personal space and hardly notice when they are extremely close to one another.

From that point on my ‘gaydar’ might as well of had a “check engine light” on it.

For men in Turkey, their friendship appears to be a very expressive relationship between one another. This is unlike the United States where men are hesitant to even hug, let alone hold hands in public. While at the airport I also noticed men kissing each other on the cheeks. I didn’t think much of it at the time since I knew the French greeted friends and family in the same manner. It also didn’t help that I had just had the most uncomfortable twelve hour plane ride of my life (do Turks know about AC?). What I didn’t realize then was that this expression of affection is unique in its own way for the Turks. It seems that kissing on the cheeks, holding hands, or touching the shoulder of a friend while walking; are all part of a greater social ritual in strengthening the bonds of their friendship. Turks seem to be unafraid of emotion and affection among each other.

All of that said, after being here three days and making new friends by the names of Mert and Bariş, I have noticed other ways in which males assert their masculinity. It is not through a show of sport or physical strength, though I am sure that still occurs, but rather in their hospitality and chivalry.

One night while drinking raki at a bar, I discovered all of this the hard way. In America we find it rude or annoying if someone does not pay their full share, so before the check even came we were all eager to pay. We asked how much the cost was including tip. Mert told us ten lira. When the check arrived the bill was much more expensive than anticipated. After Mert picked up the rest of the bill, I felt an immense amount of guilt for not contributing more. When I attempted to pay Mert five lira more, he was extremely assertive and his expression turned to anger. He told me, sternly, to put my money back.

This was a side of the kind, gentile, and hospitable Turk I had not seen before. Immediately upon leaving the bar, Mert was himself again and for part of the walk home his arm was around my neck and we talked about the amazing city of Istanbul.

What I thought to be polite was actually an insult to Mert and Bariş’ masculinity. Men in Turkey take great pride in their hospitality and to not accept it in full is a grave mistake. Next time though, we know to wait for the check. Even if it does take a few hours.

You Had Me at Merhaba

2011-06-05T17:31:00.002-05:00

I’ve been trying to figure out how to write all my thoughts into a coherent form, but it hasn’t worked so far. Honestly, my thoughts haven’t been all that coherent since arriving; I’ve only been able to kind of string together loosely associated concepts into a weird mental mosaic. So, I am going to convey my thoughts with lists.

List #1 – My Exact Thoughts as I Stepped into Istanbul for the First Time
1. what
2. what are all these words
3. what is going on THERE ARE SO MANY PEOPLE
4. WAIT
5. WHERE ARE
6. I DON’T EVEN
7. WHERE IS THE ENGLISH??!
8. WORDS I CAN’T SPEAK THEM
9. mental breakdown
10. sjkfiaghbwjnkmhshbsanfkdhjndd

I am not exaggerating.

Okay I am.

There is this strange phenomenon I like to call the Foreign Tabitha Effect, where I go into Foreign Mode. It doesn’t matter what country I’m in, I’m just in Foreign Mode where my brain thinks any ol’ foreign language will do. I’ve stopped myself several times from trying to say “Wo men qu nar?” (Chinese for “where are we going?”) or “Entschuldigung” (German for “excuse me.”) I’m getting better though! I’ve picked up quite a few words in Turkish—important ones like water (su), thank you (teshekkuler), and many others.

What really surprised me, however, was that there is so much English around. Many signs include English translations, many people speak at least a little English, and the Turkish language itself has incorporated several words—mainly technology words like “dijital” or “telefon.” I don’t know if I’m making a correct assumption here, but since Istanbul has so many different nationalities living and visiting there, English is sort of the international way to convey the Turkish meaning. DON’T TAKE MY WORD FOR IT. I am usually wrong.

On a completely different subject, it never quite registered with me how much rich history and cultural fusions took place here. I should have realized (being an Anthropology major) that since Turkey was right smack dab in the “This is Where A Bunch of Stuff Began” part of the world, there would obviously be many sites and artifacts older than like five United States of Americas. It didn’t really hit me until I got here. There’s an incredible fusion of all these influences that make up a beautiful city.

Word of advice: COME TO TURKEY ASAP.

Just a Desert with Camels

2011-06-05T17:23:00.007-05:00

We were hanging out with some Turkish friends the other night and they asked my what I thought Turkey was going to be like before I arrived. I looked around to everyone else in the group and all together in agreement said that we really had no idea what to expect of Turkey before we came. They said that last year’s group thought it was going to be a complete desert with camels walking around everywhere! We all laughed and agreed that we knew more than that coming in, but not much more.

The shear mass of the city is absolutely mind blowing. When we first drove in (in our luxury van!) the city never stopped. It was as far as the eye could see and even further, ebbing and flowing with the landscape of the Seven Hills of Istanbul. In the United States, cities like New York City, Los Angeles, and Chicago are all the biggest cities that I think of, but they are nothing compared to Istanbul. All of the US cities have suburbs that make them seem bigger, but in Istanbul the city never seems to end. With over 20 million people living in Istanbul, you see the life of the people day and night, this city truly seems to never sleep, even though we are learning that we need to sleep a bit more than we thought!

As we drove into Istanbul the buildings were stacked on top of each other, one after another with red roofs, all slowly blending together into the distance. But my favorite part when looking into the heart of the city are the minuettes from the Mosques that pop out to catch the attention of the eye. Before coming to Istanbul I had never seen minuettes or Mosques of this capacity. The minuettes are the towers on the outside of the Mosques that were originally used to climb up and call for prayer. Now the minuettes hold several speakerphones to call the prayer, but the minuettes still exist because of their traditions and they are a way to reach more people by being higher up. Mosques only need one minuette, but can have five or six, and several balconies on each to call the prayer from. The most being the 10^th sultan of Istanbul, Sultan Süleyman, who built 10 balconies to call prayer from. The Mosques that we have been inside of, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, which was at one time a Catholic Church, are probably the most beautiful buildings I have ever stepped foot in. I enjoy that they are not decorated with pictures of idols or people, just pure architecture and magnificent tile work.

The mixture of the old and new is nothing I have ever seen before either. Centuries full of history lie beneath newly built structures, while many old structures still stand in their glory through many earthquakes and hardships. It is amazing to begin to learn about the Turkish people and where they began with the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires, and what they are today. Many traditions still remain, but the city is nothing like anything I could have ever imagined. As of yet I have seen no desert or camels, although I would like to see a camel fight! Even still I do not know what to expect or what is to come in the coming weeks, but what I have seen so far has been impeccable and beyond anything I could have dreamed. I am excited to see what is to come and learn more about the Turkish people and their culture and traditions as I enjoy their beautiful city of rich history, Istanbul.

Becoming a Man

2011-06-05T16:54:00.002-05:00

Today, we visited the Blue Mosque. Our guide, Selime, said young boys once came to the mosque to celebrate the day of their circumcision. Shortly after saying this, two children – one boy and one girl - about the age of 4 walked by. Both the boy and girl were all dolled up. The boy had on a little suit with a fur vest and the girl had on a white dress.

Selime said the boy was celebrating his circumcision. And the parents, not wanting to make the little girl feel left out, had dressed up his sister too. Throughout our time at the Blue Mosque, we saw several other little boys in similar garb celebrating their “big day.”

Later, we visited the sultan’s palace – also in the old city – where we we’re informed about the celebration of the young sultan’s circumcision. For 40 days and 40 nights, the palace held festivities to celebrate the circumcision of the young sultan to be.

The men in my group moaned about how painful the process must be to endure as a toddler or small child: To them, the process is much better as a baby when you are too young to remember it. Yet, Selime said the young boys were only bed ridden for two or three days tops in those times and now can be seen walking out of surgery.

What struck me the most was that there is not a similar ceremony to celebrate the first menstruation of female children. While it is not a common occurrence in America, I have seen families throw parties for young girls who first start their cycle. Of those who threw parties, it was usually a small tea party with girls of a similar age.

Among my group of friends as a child, we did not have parties. However, most of my friends’ parents took them out for ice cream or a treat in celebration of them becoming a woman. I was much older when I started. So, this is not something I personally experienced. I do remember really wanting to start: probably because anything that led to the consumption of ice cream was awesome in my book…that hasn’t changed much.

Selime said that till this day the commencement of menstruation is not something widely discussed, especially among men in the family. I’d really like to talk to some women my age to see how they feel about discussing menstruation.

Unknown Anticipation

2011-06-02T02:07:00.004-05:00

I wouldn't say that nervousness is the word that I am feeling, but rather unknown anticipation. However, this anticipation is much more unknown than I like to admit. I have been to a few other countries in the past couple years, but I always knew what to expect for the most part. This trip however, is something wildly different because I have absolutely no idea what I am about to get myself into. I am extremely excited don't get me wrong, it is just the not knowing part that is filling me with this lingering anticipation. But it seems that I will be on my way to Turkey tomorrow, so not much more I can do now except for board my flights and begin this new adventure.

I really knew nothing about Turkey before this trip came along, frankly I still do not know all that much. I was originally going to Germany for the summer and that seemed much more comfortable. Why? I do not know, maybe it being a main part of Europe, and having people around me know about it as well. But when I tell people I am going to Turkey no one has any story of that one time that they went there, or that their ancestors being from there, most people are pretty perplexed as to why I am going there. But with more and more research it honestly seems like the place to go. A quote from our book made me more excited than ever because it seems that Turkey has everything, "This country's land has been populated since the beginning of human history by an amazing number of civilizations - pagan, Christian and Islamic, coming from Greece, Rome, Egypt, Arabia, Persia and places even farther away. King Midas and King Croesus, Saint Paul and Saint Nicholas, Homer and Herodotus - all came from the land that is now Turkey." It continues to go on about Aristotle, Florence Nightingale, and others like Alexander the Great. I have to admit that I did not know who all of the great people listed were, but to have so much history packed into one country seems like a whirlwind of new experiences.

I am a big fan of meeting new people and going new places, so I cannot wait to see what Turkey has in store for us, and for me! To see so many different cultures collide will be nothing like I have ever seen before. So now that my bags are packed (mostly) I am ready to start exploring Turkey and probably not close to half of what it has to offer, but as much as I can fit in in the next few weeks!

Treating Turkey Like a Lady

2011-06-01T23:35:00.003-05:00

I know what kind of traveler I am: I’m normally more outgoing when I’m surrounded by people who don’t speak the same language as me. This is probably because I feel like my awkwardness will be cast aside as some sort of culture/language gap. When you’re in another country you’re allowed to make social faux pas, as long as you are making an attempt and apologize a lot.

I’ve traveled to about 18 countries. I lost track of the exact number somewhere and I always feel like there’s one African country I’m forgetting. Anyway, the point is travel isn’t a new thing to me. I even have a routine. To some, the name of my routine is procrastination. But, “hey, I have my reasons” I say to those some.

I take on a country like I do a new acquaintance. I don’t look at her Facebook or ask friends about her. Instead, I wait and create my own picture. I drink with her. I dance with her. I go out of my way to start conversations with her inhabitants. I fall in love with all the things she has to offer that the United States doesn’t. Then, I get pissed off because of all the things she doesn’t have (Why doesn’t every country have a 24-hour Wal-Mart?). And then - only then - do I feel like I start to get a picture of what she's like.

I’m taking on Turkey a bit differently. I’ve read a book about her. I’ve read a couple articles on her state of mind. I’ve stared at her picture longingly. I must admit: I feel like a bit of a creeper.

I promise when I meet her I’ll keep an open mind. I’ll use what I read to put what she has to offer into context, but I won’t allow it to become the basis of my judgment.

Merhaba

2011-06-01T17:11:00.003-05:00

Just one day before leaving for Turkey I feel a healthy mix of excitement and apprehension.

My excitement stems mostly from my anticipation to travel outside of the United States for the first time. Most of my friends have traveled abroad and upon returning they describe themselves as 'different' or 'changed,' which is to be expected.

I also find myself eager to try new foods, drink raki, experience a totally alien culture, and most of all to be in a place that is truly old. By no means do I expect Turkey to be primitive, underdeveloped, or savage. However, I do look forward to seeing buildings, streets, and places of worship that are older than the very country I live in.

My fears are rather basic. I fear being that American who is viewed as rude, loud, and ethnocentric; although I will make every effort to be respectful to my host country and its people. Despite my many attempts to learn a few Turkish words and phrases, the only thing I have managed to retain is merhaba, or hello. I must also confess that never having met a follower of Islam I am both curious and reluctant. Curious to know what a call for prayer is like or how they interact with the opposite sex, but reluctant because I do not wish to ask the wrong, or offensive, questions.

Overall, I am very excited for my trip to Turkey and to meet the Turkish people who will be my hosts. I look forward to this adventure and the new knowledge I will take away from it.

T minus 36 hours

2011-06-01T11:51:00.001-05:00

All right. So, Turkey. To be completely honest, the only time I have had many thoughts about Turkey is around Thanksgiving (Is that joke too cliché? Yes? …I’ll just stop.) and when I was in Germany when they played Turkey at soccer. At that time, I was obligated to cheer for Germany, because I was in a go-cart track/dive bar with many rowdy Germans who took soccer very, very seriously. Should I say “football?” I have a feeling “soccer” won’t fly in Turkey. Anyway, the point is that Turkey doesn’t turn up in my World News feed all that often, and I haven’t had a reason to really give Turkey that much thought. That is, until about a month ago. I was ready to take a trip to India and learn to dance and do that head-wiggle thing when, unfortunately, the program was cancelled. My advisor told me about a trip to Turkey. Why not? I thought. They’re both in Asia; that’s the same continent or something. Well, my fellow readers, I was not prepared.

Turkey is more than just “that country that shares a name with America’s favorite Thanksgiving fowl.” As I read more about Turkey, I discover there’s, like, this other world out there. Sure, I’ve been to Germany, but considering that I came from a town with more than half the last names were “Pfannenstiel” or “Dreiling,” there wasn’t that much that surprised me. But just from reading about Turkey, I have been surprised already. I already knew Turkey had Troy, where Brad Pitt, Orlando Bloom, and Eric Bana fought over the lovely Diane Kruger. It was also the place where St. Paul established churches and St. Nicholas of Myra inadvertently inspired the commercialization of Christmas. I also had a mental image of a bazaar with desert dust hanging in the air, and mustached men wearing fezzes shouting “This is no ordinary lamp! It once changed the course of a young man’s life. A young man, like this lamp, was more than what he seemed—” If you’re thinking Aladdin, that’s what I thought. However, after reading the books and articles recommended to me, I realize all my preconceptions are, of course, quite wrong. Even taking the time to look at pictures of Istanbul shows me that it is as modern of a place as any, and not the stereotypical Muslim nation most people think of. However, books and the always accurate Wikipedia will never give me a proper look at Istanbul and Turkey until I get there. Until then, I will nervously wait and avoid packing.

Then it’s Turkey Time.

Reflections

2010-07-15T20:14:00.002-05:00

While I missed the United States and, quite surprisingly, Mexican food, now that I'm home I miss Turkey. I'll find myself waiting for the call to prayer, expecting to need to jump out of oncoming traffic, and wanting with every part of me a wet hamburger and some mayonnaise. It's strange how much of an impact one place can have on you.

Since returning, I've been asked a lot of the same questions I was asked before I left. They're often stereotypical and misinformed. The difference is, this time I can give them all different answers. No longer ignorant myself, I can tell them with honesty how incredible the culture, history, and society is. No, people did not drop to their knees in the middle of working when there was a call to prayer. No, all women were not covered head to toe in layers of clothing. No, I was not in danger because I am not Muslim. Before, when I didn't know the answers to these questions, I found myself wondering the same things. Now that I know the truths, I have no qualms with setting people straight.

The history we learned and witnessed still blows my mind. Even more mind-blowing is the amount I have yet to know and understand. Three weeks in Turkey barely scratches the surface of all it has to offer. It was a crash course in one of the most complicated subjects I've ever encountered. However, it did change me. I learned about a religion that, before, was absolutely foreign to me. I learned that stereotypes are pervasive and rarely carry merit. I learned that there are cultures out that we don't really talk about in the United States and ultimately I learned that we should. The three weeks I spent in Turkey were three of the most enriching weeks of my life.

Home

2010-07-10T11:23:00.002-05:00

It's odd to think that I've only been back from Turkey for just over two weeks. I jumped back into my old routine and now my mind has completely shifted from deciphering Turkish pronunciations to the conversion rate trends and PHP errors that plague my career. I thought it'd take me longer to get back into the swing, but I was back in my routine 9 hours after the wheels touched down in KC.

I loved Turkey, and everyone is already sick of hearing about it. I'm enjoying learning more about the country through readings and trying to talk my friends and family into making trips (at least 2 people have been convinced!). But one thing I realized on my trip that really surprised me was how much I loved the life I've created for myself in KC. I try to picture myself living and working in Istanbul, and I can't do it. Don't get me wrong - if the opportunity presented itself, I'd jump at it. But one thing that seemed clear to me from our time with our Turkish friends is the idea of helping and protecting your own, and my people are here.

Baris and his friends would always tell us how terrible Turkish men were, despite the fact that they were actively disproving that through their constant helpfulness. I think what they really meant is that we couldn't expect the same level of kindness from just anyone on the street. Not that other men were 'bad', but that they were treating us as they would close friends or family because they were asked to by someone they cared about and we were cool enough for it not be a chore. We couldn't (and shouldn't) expect that same treatment from strangers.

At 19, I gave myself the goal to live and work abroad by 25. At 25, I extended that to 30, but now at 27, I question if packing my life up and moving it abroad would be counterproductive to what I say I want out of life. Stepping into a culture with so many layers of history and meaning in every interaction without a cultural interpreter would be overwhelming, but could be overcome in time.

One thing that my time in Turkey underscored was that life isn't about what food you eat or which cafe you have it in, but who you share it with. To leave behind my huge family, wonderful friends and even terrific coworkers in order to start over in an amazing country without them would replace my personal history with a simplified understanding of how other people live. It's wonderful and a bit scary to realize that where you are is exactly where you should be.

But that doesn't mean I'm not already saving for Machu Picchu 2013...

My Selfish Reasons To Keep Turkey A Secret!

2010-06-26T05:51:00.001-05:00

I spent 3 wonderful weeks learning much more than I ever had about a country. Turkey is a place that I would have never imagined visiting this time last year, but a place that I can’t wait to visit again. I feel ashamed that I never knew about Turkey. In fact I barely knew where it was geographically, and even though I’ve learned so much I know there is still a lot of things I am still ignorant about. Something that I notice about turkey that I have talked about many times before is very apparent to me now that I’ve spend a few days in Paris. Turkey is new and exciting, there are few Americans wondering the streets and that is why it’s such a magical place to visit. Unlike Paris, it hasn’t been spoiled with tourists. During our program there were situations where we would avoid the “tourist spots” until now I was unsure of what exactly that meant and why these spots must be avoided. Well, I can understand exactly what that means now, when I visited the Lourve yesterday it was madness. A museum saturated with humans, everywhere, bumping into you, taking pictures and standing around… just in the way! I was excited to see the Mona Lisa, but the experience was almost shattered since I had to wait in line and was then pushed out of the way by people taking pictures and using there flash (although that is forbidden!). Now, there were of course some situations in Turkey where there were lots of people, but nothing like what I encountered yesterday. Turkey has lots of tourists, but the people were respectful and actually seemed to care about what they were doing.
In my last blogs I questioned the European Unions choice not to admit Turkey immediately like they have done for all the other nations that applied. Although it is not at all for the reason of preserving Turkeys authenticity I would be nervous that Turkey will become what places like Paris are. I have heard that Turkey is similar to Paris 30 years ago. It was new and excited and although many Europeans traveled there it was not something that thousands of Americans did every year. Turkey has many European tourists, but not many Americans know enough to travel to its cities. If it were accepted to the EU it would open many doors, and be a very fortunate opportunity for many of the residents. Yet, it would also open the door of the unknown. More people would learn about how brilliant the country is and less people would fear it as a scary country that boarders Iran and Iraq. So then, I would expect that the tourists would start flooding in from all around the world. Soon it would no longer be classified as a “Hidden Jem” but as a tourist hot spot. Maybe it’s selfish of me to want to keep this wonderful secret, it’s obvious that the only thing that tourism is hurting are the other tourists and also just annoying the locals. I want Turkey to be successful, I want people to finally understand how amazing it is, but at the same time I don’t! I want to keep it just as it is.

The Hidden Jem That Is Turkey

2010-06-24T11:51:00.000-05:00

After our final lecture my understanding of Turkey in regards to the EU are a little more clear. I’ve only been to London and I’m sitting here in Paris but from those few experiences I can see that Turkey is very European and would fit in nicely with countries like England and France. It is clear that Turkey has adopted many cultural traits that some European countries have, yet they can still hold on to the unique and rich culture that it’s known for by the people who have been there. It’s a shame that outsiders do not understand what Turkey is truly like. I believe that if more Europeans and north Americans took the time to travel to this country they would find that there is much more common ground than normally thought. It is so unfair that the country gets a bad reputation because of it’s location, religion, history and population. It’s ridiculous that the consideration for the EU has taken this long at all- but at the same time it makes one wonder what would happen to Turkey if they were accepted in the future.
One of the main reasons turkey excites me so much is the sense of mystery it has. Not many people can say much about this country unless they have visited, lived there, or gone out of their way to research it. I think turkey as one of the worlds “Hidden Jems”, I would fear that an acceptance to the EU might jeopardize the secrecy and mystery that goes along with cities like Istanbul, Izmir, or Ankara. Certainly many things would change pretty quickly if they were accepted. Yet, as you can see form Ataturks rein, Turkey is very able to accept change. There is a history of being able to acclimate themselves even under extreme circumstances.
I want Turkey to stay the way it is- so beautiful, ancient, and ever expanding, but it is clear that there is a lot to gain from the EU. There are positives and negatives, either way Turkey has done a find job standing on it’s own. After the Ottoman Empire, Ataturk was able to make a name for Ankara and make a small village into a growing global city over night. With motivation and innovation like that I question (as do many) why the EU can’t see past the “strange” and unknown” that is feared and look at Turkey in the way it should be seen. Amazing.

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk

2010-06-23T00:25:00.002-05:00

It's really impossible to understand the Turkish state without understanding Ataturk. It's difficult to explain the significance of Ataturk to Turkish history in a single blog post. Even finding a comparable figure from U.S. History is difficult. Ataturk is the founder of a nation and its first strong leader, much like George Washington, but he also has the progressiveness of Teddy Roosevelt, he was beloved like Franklin Delano Roosevelt, and secularists harken back to the days of his leadership much like the many American conservatives who remember Ronald Reagan. Maybe Ataturk has the importance of all of these figures rolled into one charismatic leader...and then multiplied by 10.

Ataturk vanquished the occupying Allied powers and replaced the broken Ottoman Empire with a modern state in less than two decades. But his accomplishments went beyond that of just nation building. He transformed the everyday life for the Turkish people. He created the very concept that there was such a group of people who could be considered Turkish, and that they could be connected through a new national identity. Ataturk created this along with essentially everything that it takes to run a modern nation from scratch. A new capital city, a new secular government, new styles of dress, a new language and script, Ataturk constructed all of these.

He's often credited with bringing democracy to Turkey. But it's difficult to see how anything about Ataturk's rule was especially democratic. It's clear that Ataturk was the sole deciding source on many of these drastic reforms. And resistance to his policies would be dealt with swiftly. For everything good about democracies, there are disadvantages. Giving more people a voice in policy making makes things much more difficult to get done. And it's difficult to make the case that Turkey didn't need Ataturk's strong leadership during this period.

It really is impossible to imagine what Turkey would be like today without Ataturk's influence. It's also hard for me to explain to other Americans how deep the affection the Turkish people hold for him is. You can't walk into any shop, cafe, restaurant, bus station, airport, hotel lobby, etc. without seeing a portrait of a staunch, resolute Ataturk gazing off into the distance. I think that maybe the U.S. has experienced similar periods of worship for their leaders, but never something so strongly based on a single individual. Maybe George Washington as the first president of the United States, or maybe FDR during World War II, but there's nothing that matches the longevity and the intensity of admiration that the Turkish people feel for Ataturk.

The Little Things- Bigger Than I Thought

2010-06-22T11:40:00.004-05:00

I knew that Turkey has had an application in to the European Union for awhile now, but I had no idea just how long and contentious the application process has been. Turkey first applied to the European Community in 1963, when it was told that its accession would be done in three stages. The second stage was completed in 1994, with very little work being done since then. Fifty states applied at the same time as Turkey and all others except Turkey have received an invitation to join. To add insult to injury, states like Albania and Lithuania, admittedly less modernized and applying far later, have already joined. So what’s the deal? Why has Turkey been snubbed? Should it even continue its quest for inclusion in the EU?

I don’t know the answers to these questions. There seem to be problems with every solution people can imagine, to the point where a decade-long gridlock sounds like the most likely outcome at this point.

But should Turkey finally join the EU, what are the biggest problems it will face? Adopting the European Constitution? Changing currency? Nope. Apparently the biggest concern among Turkish people about joining the European Union is what to do about the changes they might have to make to their eating habits. It sounds funny at first, but when you consider the issue, it actually makes since. The constitution and other legal/political changes won’t really affect the day to day lives of the average Turk. What food they can consume will affect their day to day lives in a much more intimate way.

It sheds a little light on what it takes to make large-scale changes in a social group. Generally people will be less concerned with the high politics of it all and will instead ask “So what does this mean for my family meals? How will my habits be affected?” The small things I never considered before get politicized here in a way that is really fascinating.

Another example of this is the headscarf. We learned that it is not really a private issue when a young woman decides to wear a headscarf, but instead a very public/political declaration. It’s a performance meant to illicit a reaction. Ironically, there are some young women using the modesty of the headscarf to be provocative. I’ve never thought of the scarf in this way- I always learned it was a symbol of oppression. One of the best things this trip to Turkey has done is to totally wipe out what I thought I knew and confuse me to no end. I love it.

I Still Don't Know Much...

2010-06-22T11:25:00.002-05:00

It has become glaringly obvious that I had no clue what the Islamic religion really was until I came to Turkey. Not only was I completely naive, but slightly ignorant in the ways of this religion and ultimate culture as a result.

The Turkish government has undergone a struggle of rule since the Ottoman empire was in power. A nation that started out extremely conservative, and with a strong religious influence, became extremely secular under Ataturk, the shaker and mover of the country. He basically demanded that the population throw out the idea of the headscarf and adorn modern secular garb to distinguish a solid unified population. This method was both cautiously and whole-heartedly accepted but overall completely effective. His ideas succeeded in uniting the state and creating a radically new Turkey that we know it as today. More recently in history the headscarf on women has been reestablished and one can still see a good percentage of women wearing one. The feeling is that, even thought nothing is specifically mentioned in the Koran about this matter, a woman should cover herself in public and only be unveiled for her husband. This coverage is seen by those who choose to cover as a "holier-than-thou" status, and a lower class status by those who don't.

Just like in any other religion there are those who practice and those who observe. There are the Muslims, because they are Muslim by birth and upbringing, and there are those who are Islamists, who are pushing for the political system to adopt more of the Islamic fundamentals. It is just like in the states with the separation of church and state. Turkey has been battling that separation for decades. How close can the Mosque get to Parliament? It has been a continuous struggle between the secularists (those pushing an agenda in parliament) and the Islamists.

I think when I imagined an Islamic country I imagined terrorism, every woman covered, everyone dropping to their knees at each call to prayer, and a tough outlook on government and opposing nations. I have discovered the contrary. Not only are Turks a relatively peaceful people, but they are extremely modern and "secular" thanks to the period of Ataturk. There is so much to learn about other religions in order to gain worldly perspective and to understand a people. I am so glad my ridiculous stereotype has been readjusted for the better and my knowledge of Turkish people has been broadened as much as it has. I can only hope so many more people can get the same lesson I did when it comes to a new nation and not prejudge.

New Perspective

2010-06-22T04:57:00.003-05:00

In lecture today, I learned that the head scarf some Turkish women wear is actually much more controversial than I thought. Women’s incredibly conservative dress code was restructured during Atatürk’s reign and up until the 1990’s most women were content showing more of their bodies and leaving their hair uncovered. The 90’s brought on a movement from young women all over Turkey reverting back to the more traditional and Islamic-based headwear and values.

This caused issues in the modernized society, especially in many Turkish universities. Faculty struggled to draw a line between appropriate and extreme in an educational institution; for instance, conservative Muslim women aren’t allowed to touch any man other than their husband, meaning these newly conservative young women in medical school were unable to operate on male patients. While there were mosques near every campus, many of these students would leave class to pray in hallways and on the campus lawn, causing a disruption for the rest of the students and staff.

All of these things were seen as political statements. The students were rebelling against the modernization of Turkey by re-embracing traditional habits and apparel. Many people, myself once included, view the scarf as a symbol of oppression. It seems like an unnecessarily conservative way to dress and, as I always thought, created a double standard in certain societies. Why should the women have to cover themselves while the men have no dress restrictions? It appears to be their way of keeping women submissive and subservient to their husbands.

After learning about young women choosing to wear headscarves as a political statement, however, I am re-thinking my harsh opinions. These women don’t view their scarves as sexist and oppressive; for them, they symbolize a more traditional time and their religion. (While the root of this conservative dress is not actually Islamic, many Muslims choose to link it with their religion.)

I guess what I’m saying is, I still don’t love the idea of the scarf, but I am learning that there are many different issues surrounding it. Knowing that some women actually choose to wear it and don’t “have to” according to a religious text or a male-dominated system makes it easier for me to accept the idea.

A Sight for Sore Eyes

2010-06-22T00:56:00.002-05:00

One of the things I’ll miss the most about Turkey is the imagery. I love the image of the tulip and how you can find it anywhere in Istanbul. I will no longer think of the Dutch when I see a tulip- I’ll think of Turkey and how every mosque has tulips painted on the tiles or woven into the carpet. Since Islam prohibits the use of the human form in art, everything seems somehow more creative and beautiful. Paintings and mosaics of plants or geometric patterns are common, but never get boring. The designs can get so intricate that I marvel at how much effort it must have taken to create.

It all became even more impressive when our guide took us to a small mosque and told us that each tile was hand painted without any sort of stencil, yet each figure was almost exactly like the one before it. The thousands of artists over the centuries that have their art displayed throughout this city must have had so much discipline to create and recreate the same forms with such clarity and precision. What motivated them to do this? What drove them to slave away over pieces of tile or carpet for years? Was it out of a love for their religion, the empire, or just pride in their craft? Was it something else entirely? We even had the chance to see some ceramics being made and it still amazed me that people could sit down and create such things.

Even the Arabic script seems like an intense process to me. Some of it is written in a way that it is more art than text, and that craft takes years to perfect. Another symbol I find intriguing is the three circles, representing the three continents of the Ottoman Empire. At its height, the empire stretched over Asia, Europe, and Africa. The three circles can be found almost anywhere, even on people as tattoos. I can’t think of a single Western image I would care enough to have permanently inscribed on my body. I’ve really learned to love these images and it’ll be hard to leave them behind.

Sonra Görüşürüz*

2010-06-21T14:03:00.005-05:00

*Google translator says that "sonra görüşürüz" is "see you later" in Turkish. I can neither confirm nor deny.

Tomorrow is our last day in Istanbul, and I'm slowly saying good-bye to the city. My last wet burger from the corner vendor, last time to see some of our new friends, my last day exploring the side streets off Istiklal. I've really come to love this country's work hard, play hard attitude, wonderful hospitality and kindness, and rich, fascinating history.

I'm pretty sure I'll find my way back to Turkey, so this isn't so much a good-bye as a see you later. I do wonder if the city I'll return to in five or ten years will be the same one I've come to love over the last few weeks.

A common message through our lectures is how quickly things change in Turkey. As a crossing point between the East and West, the country is constantly being pulled in different directions. This appears in the growth of popularity of Starbucks and nargile cafes. Although both coffee and water pipes have a long history in Turkey and both venues are intended for enjoying time with friends, the experiences are distinctly Western and Eastern. Another example of the shifting sands of culture in Turkey is a growing identity as a Turkish nation. I also surprised to hear that the Turkish flags that have been so ubiquitous through the country were actually side-effect of the growth in nationalism over the last decade.

With the push and pull that Turkey is constantly experiencing, I wonder how much the country will change before I'm able to make my way back here. Will it be a part of the European Union and become increasingly democratized? Will Islam take a greater role in public life and, if so, what will that look like? Will the growing sense of ethnicity lead to greater tensions or will tensions be defused and a peace found with the Kurds?

I suppose that as long as my Turkish friends are able to live good lives, the back and forth swing doesn't matter much. The things I love about Turkey will still be there, even if the currency is Euros instead of Lira.

A Long Way Gone

2010-06-21T13:51:00.003-05:00

I have learned that I despise tour groups. Must they continually take up the middle of the road or the entire doorway or block the main attraction of a site at all angles? People tend to resort back to their sheep-like nature and inevitably follow blindly the neon flag raised in the air somewhere ahead of the crowd as the ringleader yammers on in Chinese, Russian, German, Turkish, what have you. They must “pull over” every three minutes to “re-group” and it takes forever before they can actually get somewhere. I know this because I have been a part of these maddening masses in previous excursions. Never again. I am one to avoid being in the way and prefer to power walk ahead and wander in and out of shops or museums. I want to get lost and discover the hidden treasures of a city.

I have also come to the realization that the American stereotype abroad is somewhat justified. American citizens believe that people in other countries hate tourists. Well, I don’t blame them. I have witnessed a number of tourists, first hand, who have gotten up-in-arms with shop keepers about some minute detail or some trivial matter. I have also witnessed blatant negligence when it comes to garbage; tossing to-go cups along the roadside or used tissues on a lawn. And in such a beautiful country! Why can’t they walk ten feet to a trashcan? It’s infuriating. Instead of humbling themselves to the service of their foreign hosts, Americans traveling in another country often seem to hold themselves to some god-like standard in which they have deemed themselves superior to the natives of that country. This is completely outrageous. No wonder Americans get such a bad rep. I don’t mean to hate on my own country, but it’s just ridiculous how ignorant people can be.

The Head Scarf Is Optional!

2010-06-21T10:33:00.006-05:00

We have spoken quite a bit about the Islamic past of Turkey. It’s interesting to see an example of a country that has had such tension with its future and religious affiliation. No matter how secular someone would want to believe Turkey is, there is no doubt that the great majority of the population are Muslim. Since we have been in Istanbul I notice these men and women on and regular basis and they seem to fit in perfectly in the background of the city. The Muslims that are much more secular also fit in perfectly in the city, there doesn’t seem to be any outward tension with anyone on the streets (that I have noticed) whether it’s Muslims or non- Muslims. But, this is a far cry from the tension of the political system in Turkey. It seems from what we have been hearing that there is always a push and pull for a more conservative Islamic nation or a more secular nation. It seems to me, an outsider to this world, that the seculars seem to be in the lead. Upon coming to Istanbul there was a little concern about how me (being a girl) should be dressing or acting in public, but since being here I realize that what I wear in the states is perfectly acceptable here (if not a little too casual). The only time we ever have to dress a little more conservatively is when we are entering a Mosque, and that is very understandable considering I would dress that way if I were going to a church or synagogue. (the head scarf was optional!)

Its difficult for someone who isn’t Turkish to try to make assumptions about what is best for this country. Honestly, I have no idea. I don’t want to be a person who goes to a place that is different from what I am used to and believe that them changing is right. Its very clear that Turkey is thousands of miles away from America. Yet, its interesting that Americans can make snap judgment on the Turkish people because of their issues with the separation of religion and state. As was brought up in our guest lecture today- Americans have a very difficult time separating religion and state. Just take a look at our money; every coin and dollar is branded with “In God We Trust” or even our own motto “God Bless America”. It’s easy to criticize Turkey but it’s ironic to see that there are similar issues in The United States.

Hypocrisy is such a strong word

2010-06-21T10:02:00.003-05:00

The first three words that came to mind when I used to think about Turkey were Muslim, conservative, and dictator. During my time here, all three words have been challenged and found to be, for the most part, absolutely false. All three have had a place in Turkish society at one point, true. All three are occasionally a part of current Turkish society, true. But the extent at which people think they are present is incredibly distorted.

During a guest lecture today, the concept of secularism was addressed numerous times. The short and short of it is Turkey, like many countries, has struggled with the separation of church and state for years. There are currently parties for and against the continued secularism Turkey now embraces and the possibility that the country could shift towards an Islamic rule. While some of this was over my head, something that was brought up definitely got me thinking.

People in the United States stereotype Turkey and other Middle Eastern regions as fanatical Islamic states. They are quick to assume that religion is the central focus of all governments and, from everything I’ve seen and heard, that’s simply not the case. In fact, at this point in time, I would consider Turkey to be more secular than the United States. Obviously this is not an in-depth opinion and based only on what I currently know, so I could certainly be misguided in asserting this. But, all things considered, it is definitely something to ponder.

The elected president always comes from an accepted religion. I cannot think of a time when an Atheist, Buddhist, or Wiccan ran for office and was even somewhat well-received. The pledge of allegiance addresses “one nation under God”, the national anthem stems from a poem containing the lines “May the heav'n rescued land/ Praise the Power that hath made and preserved us a nation/…and this be our motto: “In God is our trust’”, and our currency states “In God we trust”. Like it or not, the United States was built on religious principles and has maintained them. As a country, we struggle to truly separate church from state, but hold fast to our secular label.

mmm, food

2010-06-20T12:53:00.000-05:00

Before leaving on my trip, my friends talked me into hosting a dinner of Turkish food when I get back. I doubt I'll be able to pull off meals as good as what I've had here, but so far this is what I'm thinking.

To start:

Bread. Lots and lots of white bread.
Yogurt and spinach to dip it in (or, possible, cucumber and yogurt)
Some sort of eggplant and tomato cold salad
If I'm feeling ambitious (or can find them in the store...), some stuffed grape leaves
Turkish tea

Main meal:

Salad of lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber and olives with olive oil and lemon juice for dressing
Kebabs cooked over coal, probably chicken because I have no idea how to make lamb
Fries (no skins!) with ketchup and mayo
Raki for the drinkers, ayran for the rest. If they don't want either of those, I'll charge them for water.

Dessert:

Turkish coffee and I will pretend to I know how to read their fortunes from the grounds
The most delicious watermelon, strawberries and honeydew I can find

If that all gets too complicated, I'll just give up and make potatoes -

The key to recreating a Turkish meal is not so much copying the individual flavors, but the ambiance. Everyone who comes over will be signing up for at least 3 or 4 hours of dwindling over plates of food and raki. Perhaps we'll eat on the patio, but getting eaten alive by bugs in Kansas isn't quite the same as the wonderful cafes where shade and a gentle breeze bring the temperature from unbearably hot to perfect.

One thing that I won't be able to show them is the fun of dancing and shaking a tambourine to traditional Turkish music like we did here in Istanbul, but I think we'll have a good time.

Don't Judge The Book Til You've Read It

2010-06-20T09:18:00.004-05:00

When I imagined Turkey, I'm pretty sure I was thinking a modern Iraq. Women in burkas, men in long robes (some with turbans), outrageous poverty, and really weird local foods. Boy was I wrong. Not only are men and women extremely fashionable (even if some heads are covered), but the food is all delicious! I have a new affinity for tomatoes and lamb of all kinds. And when it comes to poverty, I have learned that the Turkish hospitality extends to them too. The women on the streets cradling their children and extending a plastic cup with a bowed head uttering incoherent pleas, for the most part, have friends or family to offer them a roof or a warm meal. Poverty may be a problem as it is anywhere in the world, but homelessness is surprisingly not. I love that everyone is so helpful. For instance, in the airport on the way to a weekend getaway in Kas, we asked a woman behind the counter at check-in where the nearest place was to buy food and we got a wonderful response. She did not just grunt and point or shrug and say "over there" as someone might in the states, but she actually climbed over the luggage conveyer and personally led us to a little bakery. It was so sweet.

Another thing I didn't anticipate was the drastic change of landscapes. Our "vacation" in Kas was fantastic. It is a quaint little hidden oasis along the Mediterranean that is yet to be discovered by many tourists. We had our time on a boat and laying lazily by the water basking in the sun, but we also had the opportunity to experience some sporty endeavors. The group went canyoning through Saklikant Gorge and got chest deep in mud and a few rapids. It was a crazy experience that I never would have thought to do, especially in the states. The next day we went kayaking over a sunken city along the Sea that had been destroyed by a series of earthquakes back in the day. The only encounter I have had with a kayak was at summer camp when I was thirteen and it was on quite a calm lake. So this was a bit of a challenge for me. It was an intense five miles on the water and I conquered it like a champ. I did reward myself with some homemade peach ice cream though.

This entire trip in Turkey has been a total change from everything I'm used to. It is incomparable to any other traveling I have done in the past. I have done things I didn't expect to ever do, and have seen things I didn't expect to ever see. So far... so good...

The Past and the Present

2010-06-20T08:42:00.002-05:00

Turkey is such an amazing place. Its been growing on me since we stepped off the plane, instead of going back to the hotel at night we have all started to say we are going “home”! Getting around isn’t scary and it feels comfortable here. Even if the group separates we always meet in Taksim square at the Ataturk statue. The Ataturk statue is an interesting place for us to meet. Coming here I didn’t realize how much on an impact Ataturk had on the Turkish people, and although I will never fully understand I have come to appreciate it and enjoy to see how strongly the Turks feel about him.

It is difficult to imagine Turkey as a place with strict Islamic rule, Arabic scrip, Sultans, and the all of the thing that were before Ataturk. For me, Istanbul is a city with a stylish culture. You see these people walking on the street looking like runway models. They are wearing the latest European fashion and it’s rare to see a woman dressed head to toe in a burka, even the women who chose to wear the headscarf are still very fashionable. It’s only after you take a closer look and see that the remnants of the Ottomans are still deeply embedded. The call to prayer will sound and then you will remember that you are not in London, Madrid or Paris.

The reason Turkey is so interesting to me, is because it’s so different from those classic old cities that people think of when they speak of Europe. It’s different in a good way, you can have the best of both worlds. I see the Europe chic and style but I also see the old world customs that keep this country special. There is something so magical about walking through the Sultans old palace and realizing that one of the largest ruling empires centered around this city. I love Turkey, and I have really really enjoyed being here in Istanbul. I’m so happy that I have gotten to get a glimpse of the Muslim world that most non-Muslims are frightened of because of long rooted stereotypes. There is and has always been good and bad in the world, Istanbul has seen both of these things from its incredibly long history. Now after all the work that one man did it has become a place that people (who have never been here before) are starting to realize isn’t scary! It’s beautiful, and the past and present have helped to make it that way.

East versus West in the Food Court

2010-06-19T13:17:00.001-05:00

Yesterday our group paid a visit to our first shopping mall since arriving in Turkey. It was our first visit to a new and non-traditional shopping location in Istanbul as well. The shopping mall seems like such an inherently western concept that it they don't seem to vary too drastically from country to country. Like everything in Turkey that's been imported from abroad, it's been given a Turkish flavor, but even that seemed muted among the chic Italian, French, and British designer stores, as well as the food courts dotted with familiar fast food franchises.

I'm still not sure how I feel about the new western style shopping malls popping up around Istanbul. Personally, I don't really care for shopping malls in the United States for various reason, most of them directly related to the fact that I'm an American male. But I will admit that the shopping mall environment offered a break from the overwhelming environment of the Grand Bazaar, where you're surrounded by mobs of other shoppers and aggressive merchants trying to squeeze as much Lira out of your pockets as possible. Even I caved in and purchased a trendy designer t-shirt. So it wasn't entirely bad, it wasn't entirely Turkish either, but I could appreciate it for what it was.

But another part of me wants the Turkish people to resist the adoption of things that are so non-traditional and non-Turkish. The conflict between modern and traditional, between East and West is a common theme that you see everywhere in Turkey. Looking back through its history, this confrontation occurs again and again. Even the Ottoman Empire's eventual demise is an example of what can happen when an empire and society fall behind the rest of the world in terms of industry, technology, and new ideas. And the Ottoman Empire did try to catch up to the rest of the world, but it was too late, even for an empire that has ruled for six centuries. It seems that the modern nation of Turkey is trying to prevent a similar fate from repeating itself. By blending Eastern and Western traditions and ideas Turkey won't repeat the mistakes of history.

However, the tensions aren't far from the surface. The police check points one must pass through before entering the mall parking lot are clear examples of potential backlash against western culture. Even so, in a place as old as Turkey, with such a rich history, it seems that these problems are never new or original. Turkey has been the bridge between East and West since humans first inhabited the Anatolian peninsula. And that's what makes Turkey such a fascinating place to those looking at it from the outside. Even shopping malls, which seem to represent the most materialistic and capitalistic aspects of western culture showcase this mixing of worlds. You don't normally find women wearing headscarves picking through racks of designer clothing imported from Europe in the United States or in many other places in the world.

Who Am I?

2010-06-19T13:00:00.004-05:00

Today we went to Istanbul Modern and took a boat tour on the Bosphorus, which don't sound like related activities, but actually facilitate the same sort of discussion. The art displayed in the museum expresses all sorts of things, but common to much of it was the question of identity- Turkish artists are asking "Who am I? What is Turkey? Where do we fit?" And being on the Bosphorus puts you quite literally in between two massive forces, Europe and Asia, causing you to ask yet again where Turkey fits.
The country seems to be at a crossroads in so many ways- geographically, culturally, linguistically, politically, artistically. The progression of modern art alone shows this. The earlier paintings were very European; obviously the artists had studied in France or somewhere similar and strived to copy the same sort of style. As you move through the museum the pieces change. The artists begin questioning the classical styles they had learned from the Europeans and started deconstructing. Some of the pieces were an outright, straighforward question of "what is Turkey?" Others were a little more subtle, but had the same feeling of inquiry or uncertainty.

It all leaves me wondering how any group of people ever get together and manage to form a working, cohesive state. People are so varied, so changeable, so prone to identity crises, that I no longer have any idea how state-building happens. Ataturk, the self-proclaimed Father of the Turks and architect of the Turkish state, must have had one hell of a time bringing millions of very different people together to form a country out of the ruins of the Ottoman Empire. No wonder he died of cirrhosis at such a young age- I would be a heavy drinker too if I had taken on his responsibility.

Perceived identity crisis aside, I do believe in the viability of Turkey as a state. Some have stated their doubts in the past, but being here only proves that Turkey isn't going anywhere and is absolutely a cultural force to contend with. It's just happening in a way that no one else has experienced before.

Art is art. Except, of course, when it is art.

2010-06-19T09:56:00.003-05:00

We went to the Istanbul Modern Art Museum and I couldn't help but compare it to the many art museums I've been to in the United States. Specifically, the MOMA,or Museum of Modern Art in New York City. While art is always subjective and each piece is unique, I get used to seeing the same imagery, themes, and overall messages. Landscapes are generally recognizable and styles are repeated. Walking through the Istanbul museum, I was surprised at both the differences and similarities I found.

Obviously, the landscapes were different. In place of farm animals, colonial structures, and traditional "urban" settings were mosques, differently-constructed people, and rows of colored apartments and buildings. The videos were especially different - videos in the museums I've visited generally address industrialization, geometry, and politics. There were some like this but quite a few that were, well, over my head. Mouths without faces, a woman decorating her apartment with her own lip prints, and a slumbering clown, just to name a few.

I found similarities in political issues, the evolution from traditional to abstract, and the embrace of the absurd. There was an obvious rebellion against tradition and the government and this was shown in pieces using bold colors and boundary-pushing images (much like in the United States). Industrialization and construction was also addressed; in a video from Taksim Square, a family ate in an apartment dining room while the building next to them was torn down.

While many countries embraced Western art, Turks managed to create their own unique and artistic scene. Art will always address similar issues because people are almost always facing similar struggles in society and their personal lives, but it is up to a culture to hone their own style, which the Turks definitely did.

False Assumptions

2010-06-18T11:00:00.000-05:00

When I signed up to study in Turkey, I was not expecting to end up like this-

Soaked in muddy water with scraped knees, and nursing a sore foot from walking barefoot until finding someone's lost shoe to finish the end of the trek. A hike through Saklikent Gorge is definitely not what first comes to mind when you think of Turkey.

When I told people I was going to Turkey, a common reaction was "Why would you want to go there? They [insert some terrible characteristic]." So I think it's time to clear up some misconceptions that my friends and family have about Turkey.

"You're going to have to wear a burka, and they don't let women in public.
We have had more interactions with Turkish men than women, but I think that is more due to primarily men working in hotels, shops and restaurants where we've spent the most of our time. I've seen head-to-toe burkas - the black gowns where only the eyes show - once in my two weeks in Turkey, and it might have been a group of tourists. Head scarves are common, but not the norm, especially with younger women. Even women who cover completely find a way to do it fashionable, to the point that I would really love to own some of their clothes. I think Turkey has pushed the division of state and religion a bit too far, actually, since students aren't able to wear scarves to state universities.

"You're going to be killed by terrorists because Turkey borders Iraq."
Yeah, the countries share a border, but the distance from Istanbul to Baghdad is about the same as the distance from my house in Prairie Village to the drug wars happening in Mexico. I'm not scared.

Istanbul is a city of 12+ million people. Crime happens. I'm not going to wander down dark alleys alone or leave lira hanging out of my pocket, but terrorists? Not so much. Even with all the hubbub with Israel, I've only seen a handful of graffiti or signs expressing outrage. When we asked at the synagogue, the man giving us a tour said he hasn't experienced any sort of animosity. It seems like everyone is busy going about their day and pretty committed to get along.

"You're going to get spit on, because they all hate Americans."
I've seen opinion pulls showing that 70% of Turks disapprove of Americans, but I have yet to experience anything but hospitality from the people I've met. Every time I've traveled, I've gone home and said the people were amazing, but I feel like Turkey is in a league of its own. Our tour guides feel more like rent-a-friends than guides. Each one has gone above and beyond - offering to take us out on the town, giving us watermelon, walking us to our bus terminal, inviting us out for drinks, friending us on Facebook, etc.

Everyone is so hospitable that I actually find it difficult to navigate. At what point am I being rude turning down offers? Or, conversely, when am I taking advantage of their kindness? When we prodded one our friends for why he was doing so much for us, he said he wanted us to know what Turkish people were really like, not the stereotypes of the Middle East, so that people could know how great Turkey is. It's working.

Living The Life!

2010-06-17T06:49:00.006-05:00

Istanbul is wonderful, amazing, and fun. Yet, Kusadasi and Kas are my kind of vacation places. Some things were very similar- the Turks gracious attitudes, the beautiful unique shops and of course the delicious food/ but other things were slightly different, PALM TREES!
Kusadasi was so relaxing. Ephesus was breath taking and a visitor like me could really get a feel for the history in Turkey.

Although I do appreciate the history of the southern coast the fun aspect was amazing! Boating for a day on the Aegean Sea was a memory I’ll never forget in Kusadas. Kayaking in the Mediterranean was quite a workout but still priceless and so natural in Kas.

From these experiences and all the others it is very clear to me that the Turks definitely know how to enjoy themselves. Basking in the sun at he beach in Kas, while I took a sip out of my Fanta and decided that without a doubt this is “the life’! I look around and see other beach goers’ sipping tea and coffee (which I always though was strange in 90 degree weather) and taking drags off of their little Turkish cigarettes. The atmosphere is peaceful and there doesn’t seem to be a care in the world.

Although I’ve been here for two weeks now the Turks always surprise me in the best ways. Looking back at my expectations coming to Turkey I was so nervous that these people I was about to be surrounded with would be harsh or so extremely different from me. Truth is, the Turkish people are different- they are so different I was surprised but in a very good way! Instead of feeling the hustle and rush of the states Turkey is a country were you can really unwind and relax. Sure the streets of Istiklal are packed but even that rush is passive because the second you reach your destination you’re at ease. Since being here I find myself wondering why the North Americans can’t take a page out of the Turkish book and live a life of pleasure, compassion and relaxation. Now- don’t get me wrong, the Turks are very hard workers. But they care about what they do and put thought into it. You can see there is a very clear sense of pride in them and that is something I’m very envious of.

I Am Marty McFly

2010-06-16T16:20:00.004-05:00

I’ve decided I need a time machine. Or I need to be friends with someone who is good with cars to rig up a Delorean for me and send me a few thousand years back. I wish this because I went to Ephesus. I have been to many other sites of ruins where historic relics have been uncovered and marked with inlaid plaques with their eloquent Latin name and a non-descript English translation, but none quite as relatively preserved as this haven of an ancient city.

I totally should have been an Archeology major because I find ruins completely fascinating. I paint this vivid image in my head of how people actually went about their day-to-day activities in these towns. How people socialized and bartered and engineered these fascinating structures in the first place. I am still amazed by the Roman people and how brilliant they were. They created so many little trinket inventions, designed the aqueduct and sewage systems, laid out a harbor city, and knew the planet was round. They were also able to conquer a number of peoples, including the Ephesians in Ephesus.

Walking through this incredibly unique place just inspired a number of random questions. I wanted to know everything. I wanted to be let loose to explore everything and build up this image of Ephesian life in my head. I love this place, not just because of the meaningful biblical significance, but because I can let my imagination run wild unlike in Istanbul. Don’t get me wrong, Istanbul is an amazing city, but it doesn’t leave much room for creativity. It basically just lays thing out for you on a tangible timeline with some pretty sweet graphics. Istanbul’s ancient city has been covered over by tall shopping malls and movie theaters while Ephesus provides the bare bones “this is how it was” feel. I am excited to return to the big city, but I absolutely loved the experience of Ephesus.

Here's the Other Side...

2010-06-16T15:27:00.003-05:00

Just when I started to feel like I was getting my bearings in Istanbul, off we go to the south along the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas. Our time in the south of Turkey could not be more different from our time in Istanbul. It's hotter and feels little more touristy because Kusadasi is a port town where cruise ships stop. Probably Istanbul has more tourists, but these places just feel like they have more. All the Turkish words I've been learning (okay, the 6 Turkish words) weren't needed a all in Kusadasi. Everyone spoke English and if you just asked for water in Turkish people would get really excited and praise your language skills. That felt pretty great to be told we were speaking Turkish well, but in reality we just looked good by comparison- no one else was even trying.

It felt nice to get out of the city and lay on the beach, ride some horses, relax on a boat, hike, ad kayak. I'm not the most urban person in the world, so being outdoors doing fun activities was right up my alley. I loved every minute of hiking through the canyon (Saklikent) and kayaking in the Mediterranean. The kayaking at first seemed difficult because I had never done it before and there were way more people in the group than we were used to, but truthfully we've been spoiled on this trip with no tourist groups and this was fine. Once we were out on the water, it didn't matter that there dozens of other tourists around- it was easy to break off a little from the group and just relish the fact that, yes, I am actually kayaking off the coast of Turkey on a beautiful day.

There are two constants I've experienced between Istanbul and our excursion to the south- I have that "Oh, wow, I'm really here" moment multiple times every day, and the people we meet are unfailingly generous and helpful. It's not hard to love your life when you're in Turkey.

An Open Secret

2010-06-16T15:14:00.002-05:00

The differences between Istanbul and the coastal towns of Kusadasi and Kas were immediately apparent on arrival. Obviously differences are to be expected between a huge metropolis and two sleepy resort towns. The climate changed, as well as the people. Kusadasi and Kas are reliant on the money the tourism industry brings in, whereas in Istanbul tourism makes up a small part of a much more vibrant and thriving economy. Even though they are resort towns and geared towards a more international crowd, there are significant cultural aspects to these towns and the surrounding areas that makes them more than just an affordable destination for Europeans on holiday.

Our visit to Kusadasi included a tour of Ephesus, the ruins of a major Greek and Roman town on what used to be the Aegean coast of Turkey. The ruins of Ephesus were impressive in they're scale and the amount of preservation that they had benefited from. They also showed a historical side of Turkey that's relatively unknown outside of the country. If one were to ask the average North American or European about the history Turkey, it is probably unlikely that they would mention the significance of Asian Minor to the Greek and Roman civilizations.

Our brief time in Kusadasi didn't allow for much of an exploration of the town. And the attraction of the rocky beaches of the Aegean Sea proved hard to resist. I would make the argument that the richness of Turkey's history and culture are essentially a secret to most Westerners. And if that's the case, Kusadasi seems very much like an open secret. Throngs of European tourists filled beaches and boats of the harbor and laid out to sunbathe in the strong Mediterranean sun. Still, before I decided to participate in this study abroad program I had never heard of Kusadasi or Ephesus. And American tourists are a significant minority among those visiting these places. So Kusadasi still feels relatively unknown to me despite the popularity of the small harbor town as a destination.

If Kusadasi is an open secret, Kas is totally unknown. Tourists do make the journey, but these are the more adventurous and thrill seeking types, as opposed to those who simply want to spend a lazy week on a boat cruising around the Aegean Sea. The town of Kas is sandwiched against the Mediterranean Sea by coastal mountains, which makes for spectacular scenery. The town itself is full of small shops and restaurants, many of whom are geared towards the tourists. But in Kas it's still possible to pass by bar or cafe serving young, trendy Turks as they sip their coffee and tea, almost similar to Istanbul except on much smaller sclae.

Of course the status of Kas as a sleepy town still seen as somewhat of a sanctuary from the usual cruise line crowds might change soon. Turkey is becoming increasingly plugged into the world and the secrets of Turkey's past and present are rapidly being discovered by all of those who find themselves there. If Turkey's desire to join the European Union is achieved then this process may be sped up even more rapidly. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it does make me appreciate the feeling of discovery I get when wandering around these small coastal communities even more, before they become well known and well traveled destinations.

We've Been Spoiled

2010-06-16T14:38:00.002-05:00

I hate tourists. I know, I know, I am a tourist, and at times, I certainly act like one. But I absolutely, positively, cannot stand the groups of people who congregate at the most unfortunate places, show little to no consideration for the country they're in, and move and speak with an unearned sense of entitlement.

This rant is brought on by a terrible kayaking experience. The kayaking itself, while not my cup of tea, was a good time. The 30+ tourists who continually ran into me, walked into me, and were generally rude all day - was not a good time.

We have been spoiled with private guides, a small group, and a wonderful instructor who knows Turkey like the back of her hand. We don't frequent tourist-inhabited cafes and often managed to escape them in the museums and such. Having been so lucky and spoiled, I forgot how absolutely obnoxious tourists are.

I'm rather conflicted about tourism and Turkey. While part of me wants to shout from the mountains how fantastic Turkey is, the other part of me wants to keep it the secret it seems to be, at least in the United States. If they find out how wonderful Turkey is, they will inevitably come, fanny packs and straw hats in hand.

The Turks are incredibly hospitable and genuinely curious about Americans. I feel like if they get to know too many more of us, however, that generosity will start to fade. The "Ugly American" will surely rear it's sunburned head and they will realize, like I have, how draining tourists can be.

Of course, this is simply my pessimistic opinion. Kas is an incredibly tourist-friendly town and, without them, might not thrive like it does. I certainly don't wish that on anyone. I suppose there's a fine line between tourist-friendly and tourist-overrun, and I just don't want to see Turkey cross it. It's just too perfect the way it is.

Hand made

2010-06-14T11:01:00.006-05:00

Turkey is indulging my love of handmade things. Everywhere you look there are beautiful hand-knotted rugs or gorgeous tiles. The skills used to make these things have been handed down for centuries, and while the styles change over time, traditional patterns are common.

On our way to the airport from Kusadasi, we stopped by Ephesus Tile to check them out.

Master potter throwing a pot

The man off-screen on the video is explaining a bit about the pottery as the potter makes a pot. They use white clay to create the form. After drying for a couple days, they fire it in the kiln. Then the artists will paint the design on the pottery and then fill them in with color. They add a layer of glaze and fire the ceramics again. That layer of gloss protects the colors and they last for centuries, like those used at the mosques.

The dome of the Blue Mosque

I loved all the ceramics and knew a plate or tile would be the perfect keepsake for my visit to Turkey. I had thought I wanted to get a traditional design, the Tree of Life, but Ephesus had some beautiful unique designs that were inspired from the traditional designs.

I finally settled on this gorgeous plate. It's tulips, which is an important flower to Turkey. The flower originated in the country, and the name in reverse spells 'Allah'. The guy selling me the bowl said they were symbols of love, too. Whatever the added significance, I love this plate. I'm so excited to own it.

Get a Guide

2010-06-13T12:53:00.003-05:00

I'm the kind of person who likes to do things on their own, and I'd really like to think that I can go to a totally new country and figure it out without any help. Trying to do that in Turkey would be a massive mistake. Sure, I could find my way to the regular tourist sites, like the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque; I could have a great time and go home with unforgettable experiences. But without someone who really knows the place and the culture, it just wouldn't be the same. I never would have learned about telling fortunes from the grounds left over in Turkish coffee- how the shapes closest to the handle deal with the home and the shapes in the very middle of the saucer are for matters of the heart. I never would have known about the blue evil eye stones used in every home, car, and outfit to absorb negative energy. I wouldn't know that Turks don't eat potato skins, have ice, or sit in front of drafts. And I definitely wouldn't be able to bargain something down in the Grand Bazaar. You really need someone to take you to a cool, out of the way cafe and just talk about all the things you won't find in a guide book. The little facts about everyday life and the stories are what make this study abroad experience really special.
Being introduced to local Turkish people and having them show us around is so beyond helpful, which seems to be a word I use a lot here. Everyone I meet wants to help me find my way, tell me about the local history, give me some tea. They all have tips about how to get around the city or bargain in the Grand Bazaar. They may even introduce you to yet another person who can help you with yet another thing. And even though I don't speak Turkish, trying out a few words seems to be enough. I thought navigating the city would be difficult at best and the language barrier would completely hamper my ability to do anything. I'm happy to say I was totally wrong. However, there is a downside to all the helpful/bilingual population- they make me feel guilty for not speaking more languages or offering to help them in some way. It makes me want to be a better person when I get home by helping people and inviting new acquaintances in for tea and a snack.

Religion and Resilience

2010-06-13T03:03:00.005-05:00

The Ottoman Empire continually portrayed itself as an empire who ruled over three continents. At the height of the Ottoman period of rule their empire controlled vast swaths of Europe, Asia, Africa. The motif of three dots or circles representing these continents is seen in Ottoman crests, clothing, armor, jewelry, and many other forms of art. The capital of the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul, could also be represented by a similar motif. All three of the major monotheistic religions, Christianity, Islam, and Judaism are represented in Istanbul. And all three have had major impacts on the history of Istanbul and Turkey as a whole.

All three of these religions can be found throughout Turkey, however they all converge on the cultural capital of the country, Istanbul. Christianity and Islam have left their indelible marks on the cityscape of Istanbul. The Hagia Sophia and the Sultan Ahmed Mosque are just as grand in their architecture as they are in their significance to the history of Istanbul. Other churches and mosques dot the map of Istanbul every few blocks, each one having their own story of origin, construction, and sometimes destruction. Some of these structures of are technically impressive, their engineering feats having never truly been outdone even after thousands of years. However, some of the smaller, less visited sites can have an even stronger, more lasting impression. The experience of visiting a mosque or church is best felt when there aren't flocks of tourists and shouting guides flowing into the entrance and out the exit. The quietness and intimacy of the smaller sites seem to fit the serenity of their teachings and beliefs much more closely

The story of Christianity and Islam in Istanbul is something that I was at least vaguely familiar with before I visited Turkey. But the history of Judaism was something totally unknown to me before I made the decision to visit Istanbul. The Jewish Museum of Turkey was especially interesting, among other things it documented the contributions to Turkey's government and culture by Turkish Jews, as well as the many Jews who took refuge in Turkey to escape the Holocaust of World War II. The Neve Shalom Synagogue, while not as architecturally impressive as other sites of Istanbul, seemed to hold just as much weight as those other attractions. Just getting inside of the synagogue was a bit of a challenge given the extra layers of security installed at the entrance. It served as a sobering reminder that despite the relative peacefulness of Istanbul, violence from extremists can resurface easily.

Thankfully, the tranquility that all religious sites enjoy was not disturbed by these measures inside Neve Shalom. The Neve Shalom Synagogue and the Jewish Museum of Turkey displayed resilience in the face of oppression, but also showed that the Jewish people of Turkey had contributed to the development of the modern Turkish state just as much as Muslims and Christians of Turkey had.

Just Say Thank You

2010-06-12T14:44:00.003-05:00

Merhaba! Cay? Hello, would I like any tea? Well, yes, indeed I would, thank you. This seems like a very common phrase to hear while walking the streets of Istanbul. The hospitable mindset of the locals is mind blowing. I feel like no one in America in their “right mind” would ever invite strangers into their home for a cup of coffee, especially the foreigners. I would completely agree that offering a total stranger to sip from your favorite china cup, scuff up your rug, and use your facilities, let alone talking to them in the first place, would have been a terrible idea, but I have changed my tune. Turks have the mindset that everyone is their friend and all newcomers are guests that should be welcomed with open arms. It’s not always a case of someone wanting to sell you a knockoff Gucci purse in a back alley that someone will approach you, but more so that they can tell you are from America and they want to see what’s up. They want to know you’re life story and why you have traveled to their homeland and what you are studying in school and how old you are and where you are from and if my mother would like a son-in-law. So many questions! As annoying as it may be at times, I think the Turks sincerely mean their compliments and are honestly interested.

An example of this hospitality came to me when I bought a nargile pipe in a shop among shops at the Grand Bazaar. Our group has made a few local friends and they showed us around a bit, so I was taken to a friend of a friend’s little business there. He offered every one of us tea and coffee and a full display of water pipes and lanterns to boot. He kept repeating, “You must understand, I make you good deal anyway because you are pretty, but because my uncle is friends with his dad, it is more than business.” He also threw in the fact that his coals were not very good, and I should buy more (at least he was honest). Not only did I appreciate that I was getting a deal, but more so that this young guy was so committed to his social ties.

I had many people ask me before this trip if it would be safe for me to travel here. After being in the city more than a week, I can safely say, that besides the occasional pickpocket, I am quite comfortable wandering the streets of Istanbul. Not only is everyone nice enough to offer you tea and directions to whatever you are wanting to go, but every male in the vicinity will catch you if you trip, and if they are your friends, they will be upset if another man looks at you wrong. J

Nirvana?

2010-06-12T11:29:00.001-05:00

Istanbul is like a giant parfait. Attractive and somewhat mysterious in appearance, varying depending on the tastes of the consumer, and composed of different layers that, alone, can be unexciting and, together, create a unique and interesting dish.

Upon first inspection, the people of Istanbul appear to live lives of glamorous leisure. Dinners stretch out for hours, servers wait so long to bring the check that I forget I haven’t paid, and almost every Turk I have met has insisted on a fairly lengthy conversation. (They also love to joke!) However, I have learned that while the Turks do enjoy the time of leisure they have, the time in between is spent battling traffic, fending off merchants, and working hard at their respective jobs. Even the serene mosques are surrounded by bustling bazaars, mimicking every other environment in Istanbul. Here, it seems that peace is often punctuated by organized chaos.

The Turks vary as much as the city they inhabit. Almost everyone I have encountered is friendly, hospitable, and pleasant – this rarely seems to change. What does change are their lifestyles and appearance. Where most are polite, well-dressed, and respectful, others work in shops that facilitate harassment and often unwelcome persistence. While most are honest, gracious, and inviting, a few aim to make extra money off of non-Turkish visitors.

I have had the good fortune of dealing with wonderful Turks, but am realizing that, like in America, they are not all as good as their city. But they all thrive on their culture, celebrate their politics, and work hard in the city that doesn’t appear to sleep.

Just like every city in the world, Istanbul is home to many people, places, and ideals. I’ve found myself getting wrapped up in the fantastic and impressive culture and placing Istanbul on a pedestal; I have to remind myself that this is not and idyllic place and keep myself from becoming dismayed when someone happens to infringe upon my nirvana.

It just keeps getting better!

2010-06-12T10:59:00.001-05:00

We have talked a lot about the attitudes and behaviors of the Turkish people, what is clear (as I said before) is that the Turks are very kind and show quite a bit of respect for human life. I have found along with the other girls on the trip that the Turkish men are very protective of the women here. This can apply to just about everyone. Even if we don't know someone the first person to come to our aid is the men. For example (sorry but this is one of my favorite stories!) but when we were at the university coffee shop and our dear friend Shanna fell back on her chair, without even a second of delay the first person at her aid was the man sitting across from us. The man was so quite and didn't even talk to us that we weren't sure how to respond. At any rate, the further than I am here the more and more I notice these little things. I love being here and the more I (attempt) to communicate with the locals the more I get an understanding for the kind of people they are. I'm noticing larger differences between the Americans I'm used to and these Turks that I'm just getting to know. I have begun to feel very safe and at home here. I don't feel the anxiety that I felt the first few days in Istanbul. I have started to embrace the crowded streets and the amazingly rich culture and city. Everything down to the meals is full of meaning and history and that is something that I have never known. Since the first dinner as a huge group I have started to gain this jealously of the Turks. I'm still questioning why Americans don't get to have such a wonderfully full life as these people have.

Christianity in a Muslim Nation

2010-06-11T11:24:00.003-05:00

Before coming to Turkey, I was expecting to visit places that are important in the history of Islam and learn more about that faith, but I've been surprised by how many places we've visited that are important in the Catholic tradition, which I was raised in. Although I can count the times I've been to Mass in the last five years on one hand (sorry Grandma), I can't help but feel these places are a part of my history.

Constantinople was an important city in the early days of Christianity. Constantine, the man from whom the city got its name, declared the Christian faith the official religion of the empire. The city served as the Eastern capital of the Church, while Rome ruled over the west.

Side by side in Istanbul are the Hagia Sophia and St. Irene's. Dating from the 6th century and 4th century, respectively, both building show the progression of attitudes toward Christianity and religion over time. When the Muslim Ottomans sacked Constantinople, they allowed the church to continue operating, but would store weaponry and artifacts in the building. Now, in secular Turkey, the church is used as a concert hall.

Saint Irene's

Hagia Sophia was such an impressive structure (a topic in and of itself) that the Mehmed the Conqueror had it converted to a mosque, and it remained one until the Republic of Turkey converted it to a museum. In the conversion, the Sultan ordered artists to cover over much of the Christian symbolism. The design the artist used included a fish, an early symbol of Christians, in order to communicate to those in the faith that the Church was still there, even if the building was taken. Looking at the paintings centuries later, it's easy to see what was original and what was the cover up.

Paintings in the Hagia Sophia

By far, the most surprising place to visit was our trip to the final home of the Virgin Mary. She and John the Baptist fled the persecution of early Christians and settled outside Ephesus. As far as tourist attractions go, it isn't much. A cistern, a small stone house, a spring and a wishing wall. It's almost laughable when you compare it to the majesty of the Vatican or the ornate mosaics at Hagia Sophia. But this humble house on the top of a hill thousands of miles from Jerusalem was the greatest reminder of the faith I've visited. To touch the walls built by an old woman who would travel thousands of miles, much of it probably by foot, to flee persecution and spread the word of something she believed in is much more impressive and humbling to me than a thousand gold gilded artifacts or Renaissance artworks.

Mary's final home

This next photo summarizes the dynamic of religions in Turkey. The column in the front marks the Temple of Artemis. It was originally a pagan goddess, but renamed by the Greeks. To the left are the ruins of the Basilica of St John the Baptist, where his remains laid until the Crusades. Immediately to it's left is a mosque, currently in use. Layers upon layers of traditions.

Turkish Delight

2010-06-09T14:07:00.002-05:00

The Turks totally got it right. They have discovered meaning of life; or at least a few key determining factors of happiness.

Istanbul is a place that needs to be experienced. I say experience because it cannot be merely visited or taken for what it shows you up front. No just getting the feet wet; Istanbul must be cannon-balled into. Most newcomers in a foreign country do what everyone else does, and by everyone else I mean “tourists”. They go see the high-traffic sights mentioned in the “1000 Places to See Before You Die” book, or they follow Rick Steve’s guide to Turkey to the letter. Now this is not necessarily a bad route to go, as it is relatively efficient (and the Caldwell’s tend to consider Rick a part of the family and his written word a sacred treasure) but it’s not the best. It is definitely a good idea to have a starting point for a to-do list in a place you’ve never been, however it should not be the sole reliance. A new traveler must live amongst the locals trying the grand variety of foods, out-of-the-way shopping areas, and the lesser-known “must-see” spots. This is not only a tip to better a tour, but a must in order to get the true feel for a country.

Yesterday, I sat in a café-esque lounge for three hours sipping Turkish coffee, smoking a nargile (water pipe) and having my fortune told by a stylish local woman. It was the most relaxing thing I’ve ever done. Hookah is an extremely common pastime in Turkey, especially alongside some Turkish coffee. It is a device to calm the senses and bring about intellectual conversations. The coffee ground reading was very interesting as well. This was no Professor Trelawney tea-leaf fortune-telling either. My new friend did not see “the grim” but she was eerily right on the mark with my past and present life and I can only hope she was correct when it came to my future. Hanging out in this genuine establishment among our new friends felt like the most authentically Turkish thing I could do. It made me appreciate the leisure activities of the Turks and the exceptional environment they have created. Everyone is so “chill” about life and there is no such thing as stress or a fast-paced mentality. This is how life should be lived everywhere. Food is also an event. Anyone can grab a Starbucks to-go cup or a McDonald’s burger on the run (as the average American does), but a meal is something to be relished in Turkey. Flavors, as well as time spent among friends, is something to be savored. I wish everyone in the world took the time to make a meal more of a time for relationships and palatal satisfaction than the menial task it has unfortunately become.

If people in the States could take baby steps in the direction of the Turk’s way of life, America would be a drastically different country in a positive way. This is one lesson I have learned in the short time I have been abroad. I am eager to continue my education in this unique culture.

Layers of History

2010-06-09T01:02:00.001-05:00

After several days of driving, walking, running, and touring through Istanbul, I think I've finally begun to comprehend the sheer size of Istanbul. The geography of Istanbul alone can overwhelm any unsuspecting tourist. Istanbul stretches across two continents and has a population of 12.8 million people, making it a true megacity. Istanbul has an intense, bustling, and almost chaotic environment. Like all cities of this magnitude, Istanbul has traffic jams, huge crowds, long lines, etc. But there is something about Istanbul that sets it apart from other cities of similar size.

What gives Istanbul a unique feel is not just because the city has an incredible history to go along with its large size, but the incredible amount of preservation of this history that has taken place here. Many empires and conquerors have emerged and receded over the centuries, but the evidence of their rule and existence has still remained. The one metaphor that seems the most appropriate to me, and there's no doubt that it's been used many times to describe Istanbul, is that of an onion. You're able to peel back the layers of history to see what older secrets lie beneath, and then again, and again. The top layer would be the new skyscrapers, western shopping malls, and hotels going up around the city, all signs of an emerging economy that will hopefully propel Turkey into the 21st century.

The deeper you go the older and more ancient the layers become. The Ottoman Empire stretches from the relatively modern 19th and 20th centuries all the way to the 15th century. And beyond that the Byzantine and Eastern Roman Empires, which were rooted in the Roman and Greek periods of control even earlier. In Istanbul it's not uncommon to see these layers quite literally taking shape in the form of new houses built on top of old ones, a brand new hotel constructed on top of ruins that are thousands of years old. Even the construction of a new subway system is delayed by the discovery of previously unknown ruins. The collision of ancient and modern is an interesting conflict that I've never seen before anywhere else in this world to this degree, yet it seems mundane in a city like Istanbul.

So far it seems that things that appear the most mundane in Istanbul are the most surprising to me and I find them the most engaging. There's something to be said for driving underneath a Roman aqueduct that was built in 368 AD after flying into Istanbul from a city in the United States where the oldest structure was probably constructed at the very earliest in the late 19th century. I think it might be this fact that causes the Turkish people have such a different sense of time compared to Americans. Turks cherish and enjoy moments of leisure in a way that's not like anything I've seen in the United States. It could be a group of friends spending a night having dinner, or a man enjoying his coffee for three or four hours in the evening in an outdoor cafe. There's certainly no need to slurp down something on the go, or to check one's watch while you're sitting and watching people stroll by.

And this is the way it should be. What better reminders of time are there than the dome of Hagia Sofia, the minarets of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, or the walls of Topkapi Palace? After the overwhelming sense of history and weight of these places pass you over, they serve as a pleasant indication that we're all just in passing in Istanbul and that you should take the time to enjoy every moment sipping tea or coffee that you can manage during your time here.

The Turks

2010-06-08T11:19:00.000-05:00

We haven’t even been here a week and already I feel at home. Before coming to Istanbul something that worried me was the language barrier between the English-speakers and the Turkish, but so far that hasn’t seemed to be much of a problem. I’ve found that most of the people speak enough English to make communicating with them successful (for the most part). Yet, even when someone isn’t able to speak English it’s easy to make hand gestures and use what little Turkish words we do know to get the point across. What interests me is that most all of the people we come into contact with us feel fine speaking English even if they don’t know very much. In my experience, most Americans feel uncomfortable trying to speak a different language if they aren’t fluent or know a lot. Even saying “Merhaba” or “Tesekülar” makes me feel like an idiot because I’m sure I’m pronouncing them wrong.

This doesn’t go only for the language but there are many things that I have felt slightly uncomfortable with since I’m an American. For example, getting accustomed to ignoring people on the streets seems strange to me. When the café workers try to hand us menus and get our attention I feel obligated to say “no thank you” or “sorry” but it seems like most of the Turks just ignore them. Also, I’ve found myself getting unwanted attention from people on the streets because of the habit of making eye contact with people. I never realized how much I look at people until I came here and noticed that most people keep their eyes straight in front of them and give no one else the time of day. The list of minor differences can go on for a while, but don’t get me wrong, I love it here! The people are very forward, they seem like they are always comfortable in their situation and are always willing to attempt to understand or even help us if we need it.

Before coming here I had no idea of what to expect the Turkish people to behave like. I very quickly learned that they are more caring than I’m used to. There are little things that I have seen that depict this quite often. For instance, as we were walking through the streets on the first or second day we saw a women sitting on a blanket begging for money. It was strange because we had one seen maybe 1 or 2 other people like this in Istanbul since we had been here. For a city of 16 million this was very odd for me. Being an American and living in Lawrence it’s normal to see 10 homeless people walking along Mass. Street, or in Minneapolis to see people pushing grocery carts along the highway and holding up signs. When I asked about this, I asked how many homeless people are in Turkey and the answer surprised me. According to Elif (our wonderful professor) there are very few actual homeless people. The woman on the blanket was probably not homeless but just very poor. She went on to tell me that if someone lost their money and their home there were many places for them to find support. Including their families, neighbors, the government, or their church, mosque, or synagogue. After hearing that I began to think of how strange it is that there are so many homeless people living in America, and that although we all feel guilty we rarely do much to help. It doesn’t seem right that there is little to no help that goes to them. Poverty is clearly a problem all over the world, yet it’s very impressive that such a large city is able to give much more help to its people. It really shows how much human life is valued here.

Istanbul: The Clown Car of the World

2010-06-08T10:42:00.002-05:00

There might be more beautiful metaphors for Istanbul, but the one that keeps coming to my mind is a clown car. Just when I think there can’t possibly be one more thing crammed into this city, into the history of this place, another clown pops out. The past three days have been a whirlwind of historical sites and cultural centers, each one distinct and important in their own way. The scope of what one can find in Istanbul is beyond amazing- major centers for Christianity, Islam, and Judaism; Greek neighborhoods dating back hundreds of years; trinkets and monuments from every part of the world and every time; tons of languages. The history alone is mind boggling. The Byzantine, Roman, and Ottoman Empires all existed here at one point.

It must have grown piecemeal, adding here and there, but I wonder if people always knew that Istanbul would be a mishmash. The rest of the world is classical, or rock, or jazz- Istanbul is fusion. The shifts are, in my opinion, somewhat jarring, but not in a bad way- it just adds to the experience. I can’t even begin to hold all the pieces in my head, but that’s ok. They’re all there, waiting for closer examination should I choose, willing to be put down again. I guess part of what makes this city work so well, despite so many radical differences side by side, is the fact that none of them are vying for dominance. There is space here for every lifestyle, every belief.

There is a level of tolerance here that seems to be just a way of life, rather than a forced state of mind, and Istanbul has been this way for centuries. In stark contrast to the naturally forming "socioeconomic bubbles" of the United States, here mixture is inevitable. It might not be welcomed (I haven't gotten a feel for the specific attitudes between groups in Turkey), but it does appear to be accepted as a matter of fact. Where I come from, if you do not want to associate with something or someone specific, you don't have to. It is entirely possible to cut yourself off from whatever you want. I couldn't stay in a bubble here if I tried.

Merhaba!

2010-06-07T14:44:00.004-05:00

The first day in Istanbul, maneuvering my way through crowded streets where people simply walked into me and continually assaulted by restaurant and shop owners, only one word came to mind: overwhelming. The first few hours in Istanbul were adrenaline-filled, stressful, and terrifying. More than once I considered running for the nearest airport and returning to the calm silence of my Midwest home. However, I quickly changed my mind.

I am absolutely in love with this city. I could list a hundred reasons already, but I’ll limit it for the sake of space and anyone reading this. First and foremost, the history is absolutely astounding. I have never been a “history person”; I am terrible with dates, names, geography, and basically everything you need to be good at to appreciate and understand history. Here, it’s like that doesn’t even matter. History is everywhere. It’s not in a textbook - it’s next to the café. It’s in every mosque, church, and museum. I got chills standing in the Ayasofya when I realized the structure surrounding me was hundreds of years older than anything I’ve ever seen. History has such a strong presence that I am constantly reminded how insignificant I am (in a good way – I think everyone needs to reminded of this on occasion). I am perpetually in awe of the Ottoman, Armenian, Greek, and dozens of other country's contributions to this culturally eclectic city.

Having learned about the beginning of the Ottoman Empire, I am desperate to learn about more. The fact that 36 sultans from the same family ruled for over 600 years says something impressive about the empire and how they ran their business. While, yes, it was an empire and not exactly the democratic and often liberal government I’m accustomed to, I can’t say that I see many flaws in the Ottoman fundamentals. The most surprising information I received was that the Islamic government did not persecute other religions. This is something most, if not all, other countries cannot say – including the United States. So, and I think you’ll find this to be a running theme throughout the next two weeks, who are we to throw stones while residing in our holier-than-thou glass house?

This newfound enlightenment led to a conversation with two Turkish men last night about genocide, stereotypes, and politics. After discussing, at length, the very definition of genocide and both mine and their countries involvement with it, we moved onto what the Turkish think of Americans. I realized only the day before that not all Turkish are conservative or even Muslim and the men, who were my age, realized very quickly that not all Americans are an ignorant, aggressive, stubborn people. Turns out they had stereotyped us as much as we, as a country, stereotype them. We were able to talk, without censor but with respect for the other’s feelings, about issues that our respective governments cannot even seem to address. Our conversation only confirmed my belief that Istanbul and the Turkish people aren’t that different from the United States and Americans. In fact, with all the hookah, waffles, and coffee, they might – dare I say it? – be a little better.

Where am I again?

2010-06-07T13:12:00.005-05:00

After a couple days in Istanbul, I can't help but wonder if this city is an elaborate Rorschach test. What would you like to see?

Byzantine mosaics? No big deal.

Greek sculpture? Yep.

Roman ruins? Sure!

One of the seven wonders of the world and one of the oldest churches? Just head over the Hagia Sophia.

A secular, liberal Islam state? Yepper.

If museums aren't really your thing, there is a vibrant night life and wonderful cafes with gorgeous views.

The history here is long, and Istanbul was a vibrant, diverse city before the United States existed. Istanbul was the seat of the Ottoman empire for over 600 years. The empire spread across northern Africa, into eastern Europe and Asia, encompassing many different languages, cultures and religions. When Europe was in the middle of the Dark Ages, Istanbul was a center of culture and learning whose influence was felt throughout the known world.

Trying to untangle thousands of years of history, culture and meaning in three weeks will be a feat. I think I could spend thirty years in Turkey and only begin to scratch the surface of this dynamic place.

Turkish Expectations

2010-06-05T07:51:00.000-05:00

The definition of expectation is to suppose or surmise. A reasonable guess, if you will. So what am I to expect of Istanbul? Well, let’s review what I know.

So many friends and family members have asked, “Why Istanbul?” And I always just shrug my shoulders. I mean why not Istanbul? I don’t have any better explanation than that. The only thing I had heard prior to my decision was, “amazing shopping” which was more than enough to intrigue me. After a bit of googling and asking around, I came to the conclusion that venturing to this unique city was a must. The city of Istanbul literally straddles two continents and has such a complex history and diverse culture it should be on anyone’s short list of places to go around the world. Not only is the city rich with a complex history, the absolute diversity that is seen today is a complete 180 from what it was 2000 years ago under the Byzantine empire and then under Constantine. There is a lot to be learned from a city that has undergone so much change in rule, had numerous political scandals, and coups and genocide kept under wraps. So that is all I know thus far.

Am I worried about traveling or adjusting to the way of life there? I am curious as to the drastic differences that I will notice immediately and then the less obvious ones that will sneak up on me. I heard a tip that I should not make eye contact with the local males as they will consider it an invitation. That much I want no part of. I want to fit in with the people around town and stand out as a tourist with the ball cap, tennis shoes, fanny pack, and camera always in hand. I would rather blend in a little more, but I’m sure that’s impossible as an American with fairer skin and a bit of a twang. However, I do have the advantage of being a bit of a seasoned traveler. My family bonds by having meals and traveling, which has allowed my a knowledge of cuisine and a healthy passport. I am blessed to say I have had those opportunities. I also have the upper hand when it comes to my suitcase as I have grown up with Gayle (mom). She may have a hard time getting rid of things in her closet, but she is the guru of packing light. Thank you mom for my ability to bring home more than I brought (*wink*). So I am not really worried about trip. I can get through customs on my own and I go to school out of state so I don’t really worry about getting homesick either. I’m more worried about forgetting my toothbrush!

I think setting an expectation for anything leaves entirely too much room for disappointment. If one were to expect to be visiting some ancient ruins but finds out they have all been covered up by parking garages and shopping malls, then that one would probably be a little let down. And vice versa. There is always the off chance something will be more wonderful than you imagined, but wouldn’t someone rather be a little overwhelmed by the cool factor than less impressed? Supposing what you will see and what you will experience is a sheer guess and sets a standard that may or may not be met with cause of potential disappointment. So what am I expecting when I get to Istanbul, Turkey? Nothing. :)

Gobble, gobble

2010-06-05T06:59:00.004-05:00

I have to be honest – I have absolutely no idea what to expect from Istanbul. I didn’t spend hours scanning Google and the Borders travel section and, aside from what I learned from an assigned text, have been taught next to nothing about this region. Call it laziness, call it ignorance, call it the stereotypical American cocktail with both ingredients and an arrogance-sprinkled rim. Call it whatever you will, but hear me out before you do.
When people write about cultures other than their own, they rarely do so without unknowingly slanting their truth. This subtle (sometimes not) bias might downplay a wonderful cultural aspect and promote the author’s prejudiced view. Too often I think people take literature and the internet at face value, putting faith into them and accepting other’s opinions as their own truths. They arrive at their destination full of information and looking to only support their favorite facts.
I prefer to submerge myself in a culture, starving for information at first and completely satiated by the end of my trip. With little to nothing in my cup, I have no problem overflowing it with my own experiences, gained knowledge, and gradual insight. It may be just as biased as the works I originally avoided (probably more so). But it will be my bias, and it will come from a place of interest and an open-minded search from my truth, something that can’t be found in a text.
So, I’m off to Turkey. I know a bit about their tumultuous history, have heard it is ever-modernizing and fast becoming a tourist favorite. I picture scarf-wearing women, street markets, and ogling men surrounded by a range from extreme poverty to ornate, beautifully decorated buildings, and historical remnants from a time when this region ruled the world.
I want to know everything about that time. I want to know everything the scarf-wearing elders and their modern daughters. I want to taste the foods and drinks of the decadent culture and I want to experience the religion so different from the overwhelming Christianity of the United States. I want to see past the mystery and rumors that curtain this place and peer into the eyes of the men and women who live day to day like the rest of us.

Thoughts and Expectations for Turkey

2010-06-04T09:26:00.001-05:00

It’s Tuesday night and it still hasn’t hit me, I can’t believe that I’ll be boarding a plane on my way to New York and then finally to Istanbul in just 36 hours. I don’t know how to feel right now. I’ve waited a very long time to take this trip and I’ve been looking forward to it for so long and now that it’s finally here I feel so unprepared. I haven’t even begun the excruciating process of packing my suitcase; I don’t even want to imagine what things I’ll inevitably forget. Yet, apart from the worry and the anxiety I’m ready for something new. All through college I’ve heard people tell stories about their amazing study abroad trips to different and wonderful places, I’m so excited that I’ll get to be one of those people and I can’t help but be a little mad at myself for not pursing an opportunity like this before. I’ve spent a lot of time considering how this trip is going to turn out. I’ve never been so far away from the places that I call home, and although I didn’t think that would ever bother me I’m starting to get nervous. The nervous that I’m feeling isn’t a bad one though, it’s an excitement for all the things that I’ll get to see and all the things I’ll get to experience.

I have to admit that I do have high expectations for this trip, but from what people are telling me my expectations will definitely be met and most likely exceeded. I want to see a place that is so different from what I’m used to, and I know that Turkey will be that way. I want to observe the interactions the Turkish people have with each other and I want to be apart of that. I’m trilled that I’m going to a city that is unbelievably rich in culture and history; I’m so excited to walk the streets and see all the buildings. The thing that I’m most looking forward to, I must admit, is the food! From what I’ve read and from what we have discussed in class and during orientation, the food is to die for. Right now my mind is going a mile a minute, there are so many things that I’m ready to see, and so much stuff I’m ready to do. I just don’t know how I’ll be able to hold still for 10.5 hours on the plane to the city.

Onward to Istanbul

2010-06-03T08:58:00.008-05:00

Over the past couple weeks, everyone has been asking me why I'm going to Turkey or what's there (well, after getting done singing They Might Be Giants at me). My default answers have been "because I can" and "I'll let you know when I get back", which isn't far from the truth. I have no idea what I'm getting myself into.

I've been out of the country before - Lithuania, Russia, a mad dash across Europe, Mexico - so I know what it's like to be in a place that's completely foreign. It has been seven (!) years since I've been abroad, and who knows how the experience of travel will be different since my life has become more settled, and I've established a routine. I am looking forward to the struggle to accomplish things I take for granted here, like buying a cup of coffee. I can't wait to have that thrill and exhaustion of everything being novel again.

Turkey will be the first Islamic country I'll visit. I am excited to hear the call to prayer and visit some famous mosques, but hopefully avoid the challenges of traveling to a place such as Iran. I'm curious to see how much antipathy I'll run into. With tensions flaring between Turkey and Israel, it will be interesting to see how that manifests on the streets of Istanbul.

So, what do I expect? Who knows? I'm treating this trip like the rest of my life - I show up, make the best of it, and see what happens.

Before Departure

2010-06-03T01:55:00.002-05:00

Participating in this program will be the first time I've ever traveled outside the United States, the first time I've taken a sociology course, the first time I've ever contributed to a blog, etc. This is definitely a trip of first experiences for me. I'm not sure how to effectively explain my expectations for this study abroad program, because I really don't have any of idea at all of what to expect.

Maybe one reason for this is because Turkey is such a difficult country to classify. Perpetually caught between East and West, Turkey is as fascinating as it is complex. Having lived in the Midwest region of the United States for my entire life, issues like nationalism, national identity, religious expression, and so on seem very overwhelming. However, I think this is simply a result of my perception of the world. These issues are all very hotly debated topics in the United States as well as in Turkey. And that might be one expectation I have for this trip, to have my perception of the world changed and expanded beyond that of my everyday life in the U.S.

One thing I've found surprising before actually leaving the United States is a lack of knowledge about Turkey in general. After telling someone that I'm traveling to Turkey for a study abroad the most common reaction was a warning about Islamic fundamentalists, or any of a variety of stereotypes that are attributed to Turkey and the Middle East as a whole. It wasn't totally unexpected, since it seems that cultures and communities are too often judged by their most negative aspects no matter their location in the world. The reactions and pieces of advice from individuals who have actually been to Turkey are entirely different, with the friendly people, delicious food, and the incredible culture topping their lists. That's definitely the Turkey I like to think of when considering my expectations. It's hard not to think about this trip without forming incredibly high expectations, but I also know that things will not always be as I anticipate. For now...I think I've decided to settle on a nervous, cautious, yet excited optimism that no matter what this program will be full of many unforgettable experiences.

Twas the Night Before Turkey and...I Can't Sleep

2010-06-02T23:24:00.002-05:00

I leave for Turkey in about 8 hours and, though I felt prepared yesterday, today I’m very aware that I’ll soon be in a foreign country with no way of knowing what will happen. Sure, I know I’ll go to beautiful historic sites, I’ll meet new people, I’ll have a blast. Trying for anything more specific than that seems like setting myself up for an insulting comment about assumptions and a certain body part. From everything I have learned about Turkey, it’s pretty clear that I’m not the only person who doesn’t know what to expect. It seems like the whole country is in a state of flux, and I can’t predict what will happen or what my experience of it will be, but I am beyond thrilled that I’ll get to experience it. I’ve never been anywhere outside the U.S. and I can’t help but think that I’ve picked the best place for my first trip abroad. No doubt I’ll come home with more stories than any of my friends or family want to hear. It’s really too bad I don’t have a slide projector, because then I could make everyone sit down and watch as I narrate every one of the hundreds of pictures I’ll take. Well there! That’s one thing I know to expect- I’ll be one of those obnoxious returned travelers that can’t stop talking about their trip. And maybe that’s a good thing; I can dispel some misconceptions people have about Turkey. When I first told people about this trip, some of them wondered why I wanted to go to such an extremist Islamic state. Others wanted to know why I was going somewhere so dangerous for women. I never saw it that way and I still don’t. I don’t anticipate being confronted with dangerous extremism everywhere I go. Certainly that sort of thing is found all over the world, even here in the United States (though some would rather not admit it), and it’ll be present in Turkey too. That’s an inescapable part of living in the world with other humans. But I honestly think I’ll find more hospitality and kindness than prejudice and xenophobia. I’m going into this with nothing but positive expectations and there’s no reason why I shouldn’t have an amazing time!

The People and Some Closing Thoughts on Turkey

2009-07-28T21:48:00.001-05:00

I do not think that I could do justice to the gratitude I feel towards the Turkish people in just this one post. Nevertheless, I would like to try by sharing a compilation of my experiences from the trip.

In my experience as an American traveling overseas, I have come to know but one thing: in many ways after traveling to both Haiti and Turkey I have come to sense that in many ways the American people can be quite xenophobic. By no means, do I want to make a vast generalization of all Americans. In many ways Americans are hospitable to foreign visitors. However, I do not think that I have ever encountered the kind of hospitality that I time and again experienced during my stay in Turkey. I do want to underscore this statement by mentioning that in many ways the people that I met in Turkey were in one way or another trying to make our stay as comfortable as possible. Many of the people we met worked in the hotels we stayed at, ran the tours that we went on, were our guides at historic places, and sold us items from their shops. Obviously any good entrepreneur is going to accomodate the needs of their customer. However, in Turkey I found this to beyond what I have experienced back home.

In Turkey, as with most developed nations, big businesses and conglomerates are on the rise. However, in Turkey I felt that there still was a strong small business community. Though I only stayed in Turkey for seventeen days and have a limited experience with Turkish culture, I felt like open arms and open doors were often extended to me. Most restaurant owners sparked lengthy conversations with us.

In fact, in one circumstance as I was passing by a mosque near Taksim while looking for a store one evening I asked a man sitting outside a hotel for directions. The man, who spoke English fluently, not only took it upon himself to help guide us to our location, but he also invited us back to have tea and coffee at midnight outside of what we discovered was his own hotel. This owner knew that we already had lodgings and were leaving Turkey within a day or so but still managed to talk to us about American, European, and Turkish politics and culture. He told us of his time studying in the United States, how he came back to Turkey to take over the hotel that his family had owned for about fifty years, and his sentiments on life in Istanbul. In the end, this discussion led to one of the more fascinating conversations I partook in during my stay in Turkey: Turkey's possible integration into the European Union.

I was very interested to hear this hotel owner's perspective. From my understanding he was a well-educated man (he received his graduate degree at American University in Washington), a small business owner, and was in his middle ages. During our conversation, he discussed what he considered to be the downside to Turkey's possible acceptance into the EU. Although countries, particularly Greece and Spain, have adamantly and openly declared their opposition towards this future possibility, Turkey becoming part of the EU is still on the floor for discussion. When I had discussed it earlier in my stay with other Turkish people, most were in favor of it. Nonetheless, it was this one owner that spoke quite fervently against it.

I think this was when a strong sense of nationalism finally sunk in. The type of nationalism that can be seen in each statue of Ataturk that is erected in virtually every town that I visited. Now it goes without saying that nationalism runs deep in America, but I do not know if I appreciated this strong sense of nationalism until I had a spontaneous conversation with a hotel owner at 2 in the morning one night. He talked about how strong of a nation Turkey was and how it had withstood unstable economic times before. He said that Turkey possessed something that no other member of the European Union possessed (sadly, by the time I got back I forgot exactly what this was, because we talked for about three hours). Honestly, his argument was compelling and makes me want to thoroughly explore this topic more in my coursework. By the end of the evening I was worn down; however, the owner made me come up to the roof to take a picture from one of his balconies. He never made us pay for the food or beverages he shared. He just was a friendly man that left an indelible mark on my trip.

Although that was one of the most compelling incidents, I could cite numerous other ones. I discussed the Islamic religion in the middle of the night at one of the hotels I stayed at with one of the younger workers as I was adjusting to the jet lag. He explained how Islam faith and practice worked in Istanbul. It once again was a brilliant conversation. I cannot imagine staying up at a Days Inn or a Holiday Inn in the United States and talking to the one front desk worker for hours if I just felt like talking.

Another man who was one of about 50 or more carpet dealers that I visited throughout Turkey invited us to his home to have a traditional Turkish meal. I had Uzo for the first time there. That was an interesting experience. He asked me before the meal started, "Would you like to purchase the kilim? If you are not going to buy it, you are still friends and please stay the evening and chat with my wife and I." To me that was astounding. By the end of the night, he showed us the apartment that they own and told us that if we ever were in Istanbul again to please call him and that we were welcome to stay free of charge if his son was not around.

Yet again, very late one evening as I was passing the Blue Mosque on the way back to our hotel, I walked passed a restaurant that had a courtyard that looked straight up at the Blue Mosque. The restaurant was void of most customers due to the late hour; however, there were a few gentlemen enjoying some beverages at a table near the door. As I looked at the menu to more closely examine the prices, the man turned to me and asked if we wanted to come in for some food or a beverage. I told him that we really were on our way home and really only desired to "maybe" have one apple tea before bed. He turned to us then and told us that he was the owner of the restaurant (it is at this point that I would like to state that his restaurant was the most impressive one I saw in all of Turkey and one of the more expensive ones) and that it was his birthday. He told us that we could have a table and whatever we wanted was on the house. At this point I grew quite skeptical. I had rarely ever experienced generosity such as this. At first, I only ordered two apple teas, because I knew that I could afford them if I in any were being swindled. However, shortly thereafter, one of the waiters, a younger man, came up to us and asked if we would like to play backgammon and speak English with him. He was a student and had no customers left.

Several hours went by and we talked and talked. We had many teas, and I tried a water-pipe for the very first time. Since the man was our age the conversation was quite entertaining. He would tell us what certain Turkish words meant and we would tell him new English words, which he wrote down on a notepad. After several hours, we decided that it was time to go. As we proceeded to the exit we noticed that the restaurant was closed and had been for quite some time. The owner was long gone and the teas and water-pipe truly were just hospitable gifts. I guess I should have let my guard down earlier.

It is not often that I see this openness in America. It is not often one encounters Turkish farmers who are picking up family members and don't even speak a lick of English come greet you at the bus station in a desolate town to just greet you and ask your name (that happened on the way to Kas).

I guess to sum it all up: I have the utmost respect for the Turkish people (mind you some of the business dealers in the Grand Bazaar were a tad bit pushy) and cannot wait to eventually return to visit the friends I made on my trip. Maybe my trip was out of character. Maybe my trip was abnormal. Either which way, I wouldn't have it any other way.

Religious Architecture

2009-07-28T10:49:00.005-05:00

Isa Bey Mosque is one of the oldest in Turkey, begun in 1307 and complete in 1375, it is a prime example of the transition between post-Seljuk and pre-Ottoman design. It is the oldest known mosque with an exterior courtyard, which begins to appear in the later Ottoman designs. It is one of the first mosques to contain two congregation areas, which represents the transition between Seljuk and Ottoman styles. It was quite interesting seeing this mosque after viewing the mosques in Istanbul, built during the Classical period of the Ottoman Empire. One of the most striking differences was in the style of the roof. Rather than the large dome shaped ceiling, Isa Bey consisted of triangular shaped ceilings made of wood. It was quite different than the grand tiled ceilings found throughout the mosques in Istanbul; however, it was quite striking nonetheless.

The single domed mosques that dominated the Classical Period of Ottoman architecture dot the cityscape of Istanbul. The Sultanahmet Mosque is an excellent example of this period in Ottoman design. It combines elements of both the Ottoman mosques and the Byzantine churches, and is considered by many as the last great mosque of the classical period. There are more than 20,000 handmade ceramic tiles lining the walls, which is quite different from the unadorned interior of the Isa Bey Mosque. The exterior of the Sultanahmet Mosque is also quite ornate, with a cascade of domes spilling out of the main central dome.

The Church of St. Antoine, originally established in 1725, was rebuilt between 1906 and 1912 in a Venetian Neo-Gothic style of architecture. Obviously it is quite different from the two mosques described above. By the time this church was established, Turkey had already begun the process of Westernization, so many of the buildings built around this time mimic those found in Europe. However, there are other differences as well. As you wander through the Church, there are statues and pictorial descriptions of Jesus, Mary, and Joseph that are absent throughout the mosques. I also thought it was quite interesting that whereas each mosque dominates the space it is in, becoming the centerpiece of the street it resides, St. Antoine was tucked within a gated courtyard, almost hidden from view. As we were walking down the street, peeking into courtyards to catch glimpses of the buildings within we stumbled upon St. Antoine. Had we not looked over at that moment, I think we probably would have missed it. Regardless, it was quite beautiful.

I also thought it was interesting that within the Church there are signs posted saying that cameras are not allowed. Inside, however, was like a tourist frenzy, with people wandering from statue to statue snapping photos, and posing in front of the altar. I began to wonder if that is what I look like in the various mosques we’ve visited. Although many of the mosques have areas for visitors to congregate within, although I am sure that would be distracting as you are trying to pray.

Nationalism

2009-07-26T16:23:00.002-05:00

As we were searching for this store tonight, we stopped to ask directions from some men sitting on the sidewalk outside of a hotel. When the owner of the hotel heard we were from America, he asked us to sit down for some coffee because he had lived in America for a time before he moved back to take over the family business. We spoke to him for a time about his thoughts on the EU and Turkey’s desire to join. Almost immediately he began to speak about Turkey’s dominance because of location, water sources, etc. He spoke of their desire to remain out of the EU for this very reason. He spoke of the blood that had been spilled on their soil to attain the country and freedoms they enjoyed today. And he spoke of his pride. All I could think of as he spoke were the books I had read on the development of nationalism in Turkey, which was an important process, and one that has unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you view it) been difficult to duplicate in the surrounding region. Much of the nationalism inherent to Turkey’s culture today, was somewhat manufactured from the top down in the newly established Turkish state, which I’ve heard as both a positive and a negative depending on the critic. Obviously there were a number of kinks along the way, because these feelings were not shared by every level of society; however, many of the elite set out to alter the Turkish mentality and instill a new sense of patriotism. The language was reformed, as well as historical research conducted (meant to instill attachment to Turkey). Of course this was not the simplest task; it included the abandonment of the country’s primary attachment to Islam, the Ottoman Empire, and so forth. However, regardless of the top down approach taken to establish nationalist sentiment in the common Turk, in the end, they succeeded. This gentleman believed so deeply and wholeheartedly that Turkey was the greatest country in the world, and he is not alone. Each individual we spoke with had a great deal of national pride. It is almost as if the country has taken great care to emphasize the relatively new Turkish history, with statues of Ataturk displayed throughout the city. Through this shared history comes a sense of pride. Reestablishing the country from the Ottoman Empire to the new Republic, based on Western thought and ideas could not have been an easy task, and yet Turkey is one of the most successful countries in the region, and part of this success, I believe is due to the country’s nationalism.

A Relaxing Adventure with a Touch of History

2009-07-25T22:34:00.000-05:00

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If I were to pick any location to revisit in the world to go relax, I would have to say Kas. I never expected when Professor Andac suggested for us to add it to our travel tinerary for it to rival Istanbul. After Istanbul was the most incredible city I had ever spent a great deal of time touring. When she first described Kas it it did spark my interest, but I really did not know much about it. She told us that tt was the place, the destination of choice, where Turks chose to vacation. I now thoroughly understand why. It has a little bit of everything to entertain every sort of person: the adventurer, the historian, the beach bum, the old couple looking for a relaxing little coastal town just to enjoy some good sea food and a modest night life. Kas was perfection and the place I most want to revisit in the future.

Why Kas? Kas is a town not terribly far from Kusadasi. After a day's bus ride from Kusadasi you find yourself on the southern coast surrounded by gorgeous mountains and the Mediterranean sea. Kas did not seem to suffer the ill effects of globalization that I had witnessed just a day earlier. Rather right near their town square they had a sarcophagus of an ancient king from around 400 B.C. (I am fairly certain that is what the posting stated). Additionally, the town itself was quite quaint. Of course it had its "touristy" shops, but what beautiful coastal city that thrives on tourism doesn't? Nonetheless, the town didn't seem to lose its identity. I felt like the the Turkish people I met there were not trying to take advantage of me like they had in Kusadasi (i.e. the almost carpet rip off I experienced there). The restaurants were small, locally owned businesses. This is something that I miss in America. I hate seeing McDonald's on every street corner. I hate that my GPS can find ten Starbucks within a five mile radius no matter where I am. I think I could be in the middle of central Kansas and find both a Starbucks and a Walmart. Kas isn't commercialized and overrun by monopolies like this to my knowledge. This was the vacation from modern day businesses and economics I witness in the states on a daily basis.

Anyhow, Kas also offered its fair share of day adventures: hiking ravines in canyons and in the mountains, mud baths in rivers, kayaking to see an underwater city (which still very much remains intact and sank during an earthquake several hundred years B.C.E.), scuba diving, boat tours to go to see other ruins of castles and sarcophaguses, etc. Unfortunately, I each time I travel I tend to forget when offered these opportunities that I have a genetic condition that has caused my back to herniate in four separate locations. This made Kas both the best and worst experience of the entire trip. I went swimming in the Mediterranean Sea, I hiked the ravine, I kayaked. I was "outdoorsy" when I should have had an "old folks" weekend where others drove me to simply see these beautiful sights. However, my motto has always been "Carpe Diem." I most certainly did that. Even though the first day started to throw my back out I lived life to its fullest and took advantage of all that Kas had to offer. Sadly, this made the last three days in Istanbul miserable, because I was pretty much immobilized.

Furthermore, while in Kas I relaxed and read books and academic articles until the wee hours of the morning while smoking water-pipe and drinking tea at a local cafe. I sat on the beach and listened to the waves crash against the rocks. I stared up from my hotel window at the tombs lit up on the side of the mountain outside the city. I did it all and enjoyed each and every moment.

Kas felt like a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of my everyday life back in the states. Right now I work two jobs year round, I go to graduate school nearly full-time, I coach two separate sports, I am trying to sell a home, and I am planning a wedding in the midst of all of this. All of these things sometimes prevent me from just soaking up the beauty in this world. When you are overwhelmingly busy sometimes it is hard to just stop for a moment and catch your breath. Kas was just that: a chance for me to catch my breath. Kas reinvigorated me. It allowed me to finally have some time to myself to meditate on my present and my future. I never knew that one town could have such a profound effect in such a short time. Nonetheless, I know that I will return there within the next few years. Nevertheless, next time I will hopefully be a little wiser and spend more time on the beach and less time hiking up mountains.

Just Relax

2009-07-24T14:45:00.003-05:00

I have felt rushed from the moment we got here and I did not quite realize it until we arrived in Kas. It began in Kusadasi, the feeling that things will get done with time; that it is alright to just sit and take in the surroundings. Istanbul felt like a frenzy. There was so many things to experience, it became overwhelming at points. The knowledge that by taking too long at lunch, which is inevitable considering how laid back the culture is, one museum or another would close before we got there. Kas, however, is a completely different atmosphere. It is absolutely breathtaking, nestled away in the mountains, sitting directly next to the Mediterranean. It is definitely a tourist location, but seems able to maintain the atmosphere of a small Turkish fishing village. I do not think I have ever seen water this blue before, you can see the rocks at the bottom of the various coves they took us in to swim on our boat tour. We climbed through Sakilkent (Hidden City) Gorge, “belly” rafted down to the entrance, and spent late afternoons at the beach, what could be better? Every ounce of tension has completely disappeared from my entire body, and for the first time on the trip I’ve been able to relax and enjoy.

The Difference

2009-07-21T16:02:00.001-05:00

As we wandered through the maze of bars in Kusadasi, I think it truly sunk in just how Westernized Turkey has become. It was knock off brands and neon lights. A city that rarely sleeps, Kusadasi is filled with the bustle of short term vacationers off the cruise ship for an evening in the port. It was almost a little sad, wandering around the city, listening to Celine Dion and Backstreet Boy songs emanating from the various clubs. Personally, as we wandered through Istanbul, I could really feel the pull that exists within the city between the East and the West, as well as between tradition and innovation. The dual identities of Istanbul seem to, in some ways, still be struggling to find that perfect balance. However, Kusadasi is at the opposite extreme, a city that by the looks of it, has very much embraced the Western way of life leaving behind many of the customs that made Istanbul such a unique and interesting place to visit.
We wandered into one rug shop as we walked down the streets. The gentleman sat with us for a couple of hours, discussing various rugs and so forth. We commented on the vast difference between Kusadasi and Istanbul, how Westernized Kusadasi seems in comparison, and he had a glimpse of sadness as he spoke of the numerous tourists that stopped for a couple of hours, wandered through the bazaar, and thought that this was what Turkey was like. I am looking forward to moving on to Kas and seeing how that compares.

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

2009-07-20T18:43:00.000-05:00

Kusadasi. What word can I use to describe this Turkish experience? Miserable. The first hotel was a disaster. The second hotel was costly, and I felt like I was staying in the Turkish version of Miami. Personally, if I wanted to visit Miami, I would hop on a plane and spend a weekend there. This is where this notion of "globalization" truly sunk in. Kusadasi is a cruise ship port town packed with booming disco clubs and bars. This beach town, though beautiful in several ways, showed American influence more so than any other area of Turkey that I had visited up until this point. Every street corner seemed to have some shop or some vendor selling a knock-off American product of some sort (from watches to jackets... you could find it all in Kusadasi).

Now it would not be fair to launch an attack on this town without noting that Kusadasi is a port town that sees somewhere between four and seven cruise ships port for the day. These Mediterranean tours drop off eager tourists willing to spend money and cut them loose for the day. Many of these people have no idea that they are being sold carpets that are not made in Turkey, but made in China. Ultimately it is the tourists fault for being so naive, but it is not hard to get taken advantage of if you don't do your homework before traveling and then shopping in a foreign country. You have to understand the value of currency, the value of the product you are looking at, and at bare minimum a rudimentary understanding of what you are purchasing.

I will digress further. I visited MANY carpet and kilim shops while I was in Turkey. I experienced the back room sales tactics, the free cups of tea, the hours of conversations; I experienced Turkish business practice. Ultimately my motivation came from the thrill of finding something for my dining room. However, at the beginning I had no idea what I was doing. When I first went into shops, the salesmen would start the prices off at anywhere from five to ten times the actual value of the product I was looking at. Fortunately, after reading a plethora of online articles and going to a class on how to identify authentic Turkish kilims I learned how to bargain. Bargaining, on a side note, is a way of life in Turkey. I was able to bargain for a bottle of water outside the Grand Bazaar. This was one of the more entertaining and frustrating parts of our trip to Turkey. Yet in the end, it taught me yet another cultural lesson. Walmart has not overrun the whole world with fixed low pricing. I guess Istanbul was refreshing in that regard, and honestly in my most humble opinion I think I got quite good at bargaining with all of the local shop owners.

Anyhow, continuing from there Kusadasi truly did not yield many pleasurable experiences. After watching a used condom float by me in the ocean I was ready for a change, but that was why I was in Kusadasi in the first place. Kusadasi is near some of the most famous, historic ruins of ancient times. Ephesus, which is on the West Coast of Anatolia, was a large Greek port city that was eventually over-run by the Romans. Interestingly, the thirty percent of the unearthed parts of the city give its onlookers a pretty amazing view of the architectural layout of such a key city that is mentioned multiple times throughout the Bible. Furthermore, before visiting Ephesus I was able to see what once was one of the seven wonders of the world: The Temple of Artemis (really just one large pillar).

My personal high point was seeing the home of the Blessed Mother Mary. The respect shown from Christians and Muslims alike at this sight was truly uplifting. With news stations polluting the airwaves with talk of anti-Muslim and anti-Christian sentiments, it was a relief to see believers of both faiths coming together to appreciate a sight that was important to both their religions. After all the Virgin Mother was mentioned in both the Bible and the Qu'ran. To me this was a a respite from the ill-effects Kusadasi had offered earlier in the day before our tour began. Instead of seeing globalization at its peak, I was afforded the opportunity to see two unique cultures remain intact coexisting peacefully in one location. Traditions from both religions were respected. To me this might have been one of the most peaceful moments of that portion of the trip.

Ultimately, our short time on the outskirts of Kusadasi were possibly the best parts of my time in Turkey. Not only was the scenery breathtaking, but the weather was fantastic (I believe it was 110 degrees Fahrenheit) when we were there. Okay, that part might not have been "fantastic", but in the end it was worth it. Witnessing such ancient ruins that are still being unearthed more and more annually was awe-inspiring. Some pictures are included below:

Bosphorus

2009-07-20T13:42:00.000-05:00

Istanbul Modern

2009-07-18T13:34:00.001-05:00

I am not quite sure what I thought the Istanbul Modern would be like, but it definitely surpassed even my wildest expectations. The museum has been open for almost five years now, opening in 2004 just as Turkey increased its efforts to enter the European Union. The museum represented a cultural action that could demonstrate the country’s commitment to social change. I read a quote by the museum’s director, which stated that the “museum will show how much [Turkey] belongs in the West in a way the world doesn’t realize.” (Ozler2004). Turkey has had the strongest exposure to the West over time, so, unlike many other countries in the region, there is a strong tradition of modern art. This tradition begins later in Turkey than European countries because it is predominantly a Muslim country. In Islam it is prohibited to represent living beings, because it is believed that only God can create living forms.

As I wandered through the various hallways, reading about the paintings and artists, it struck me that many of them left to Turkey to study in Europe for a time, especially following the decline of the Ottoman Empire. Many of the artists displayed themes of isolation and alienation, increased by the sense of identity loss as Turkey merged between the East and West. One of the visiting exhibitions spoke to this sense of commonality among nationalities as well, The Room Project. The artist, Annette Merrild, photographed a series of rooms in nine different cities in nine countries in an effort to show the similarities and differences between national cultures. As I walked through the long hallway looking at living rooms of different homes in a particular city, it was interesting to note that individuals naturally arranged their furniture the same way. Something inherent in the culture produced an accepted way to arrange furniture to entertain guests that must be aesthetically pleasing to the culture. Such a fascinating study.

The Architecture of Change

2009-07-17T17:08:00.001-05:00

Topkapi Palace and Dolmabahce Palace depict two strikingly different periods of the Ottoman Empire. Topkapi Palace, built by Mehmet the Conqueror shortly after his conquest in 1453, it provides a classic example of Ottoman period architecture styles. Four Courts grace the palace grounds, each serving a different purpose. The first court, also known as the Court of the Janissaries, gave the janissaries, merchants and tradesmen circulate as they wished. The second court was more restricted, and was where the day to day business took place. Unlike many of the later palaces, such as Dolmabahce, modeled after the European palaces, consisting of one large building with surrounding gardens, Topkapi is very open, almost like a quiet park, surrounded by a series of buildings that served as kitchens, barracks, audience chambers, and sleeping quarters. The Gate of Felicity leads directly into the third court, where the sultan’s private affairs took place. In this way he was able to maintain much of the mystique surrounding the imperial family, appearing in public very seldom. Buildings within the third court include the Audience Chamber, the Library of Ahmet III, the Imperial Treasury, the

Sacred Safekeeping Rooms, as well as the Mosque of the Eunuchs. The fourth court, which was the latest addition to Topkapi, built by Abdul Mecit according to the 19th-century European models is the final section of the palace. Two of the most beautiful buildings on the palace grounds

lie within the fourth court: the Revan Kiosk and the Baghdad Kiosk, which was built to commemorate Murat IV’s victory over Baghdad. Everything about Topkapi is quite extravagant and in some ways significantly more Eastern, resembling Heian-Period palace architecture in Japan, with its numerous buildings and gardens.

In 1843, the royal family commissioned construction on an Ottoman-European palace, leaving behind the traditional Ottoman palace architecture. The palace faces the gardens rather than the Bosphorus which lies directly next to it. The designer of the Paris Opera was brought in to do the interiors, which is quite obvious through the extravagant and European feel. As I approached the Palace it reminded me of the Palace of

Versailles. I think this stark contrast in architecture styles is extremely representative of what was going on in the country itself during this time period. As the Ottoman Empire began to embrace the Western-inspired reforms taking place in the country, many of the pro-Islamic conservatives rejected these changes. Edmondo de Amicis describes the Turkish people in 1878 as a “people in the crisis of transformation.” (Pope 29) As de Amicis describes the new Turk that has embraced the Western influences the old Turk abhors. Rather than developing into a vibrant force throughout the Empire, it seemed to work against the Ottoman state. It was no longer representing each portion of the empire. As early as 1631, the Ottoman imperial advisor made note that the sultans had begun to withdraw from “direct contact with public affairs.” (Pope 29) By 1789, the Ottoman rulers had begun to look at European models in an attempt to strengthen the state. These Western reforms resulted in the abandonment of the turban for the fez, the organization of the civil service along Western lines, and the introduction of schools and printing presses (Pope 31). By 1839, the Ottoman state had gone so far as to decree a grand reorganization that promised a number of Western ideals, including equality. However, as these ideas spread throughout the country and rebellions increased, the Ottoman state attempted to unite the residents through Pan-Islamic views, pushing these Western ideas underground. My point being through all of this rambling is that these two Palaces truly demonstrate the cultural changes that were occurring throughout this period. As the Ottoman rulers sought to connect with and learn from Western countries in terms of how to strengthen the state, Western styles slowly began to influence every aspect of the state. Once the borders are opened to a country it becomes difficult to travel backwards at any point, even once those ideas threaten the very individuals that introduced them.

The First Day or So

2009-07-16T14:24:00.000-05:00

Breathtaking. That would be the one word to describe the past couple of days. Our first day in Istanbul allowed us to witness the architectural collision of two very distinct religious groups: Christianity and Islam. After seeing both the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque I was left with an utter sense of respect. Even though the Byzantine Empire or Eastern Roman Empire ruled from Constantinople (now Istanbul), a once Christian stronghold and symbol of the fastest growing religion of its time, eventually fell to the Muslim-Ottoman Turks in the 15th Century.

The part that fascinated me the most was the preservation of the two cultures. Rather than to tear down the Hagia Sofia, one of the greatest architectural achievements of its time even though its roof collapsed a time or two, and rebuild a larger, more grandiose mosque the Ottoman Turks merely converted it. Though the Qu'ran explicitly respects Jesus and the Holy Family. Christianity and Islam fought many times with heavy amounts of bloodshed on both sides (i.e. The Crusades). Even with this tumultuous history, the Ottoman Turks respected the profound sense of history housed within this former church.

When we entered the Hagia Sofia I was impressed by the conversion and simple blending of the two cultures. Of course, turrets and other Islamic architectural structures were added to the Hagia Sofia, but it was still obvious that certain paintings and certain Christian symbols remained from the time of Justinian.

Nevertheless, that very same day I found myself more in awe of the Sultanahmet Camii also known as "The Blue Mosque." The Blue Mosque, which was designed and built by the architect Sedefkâr Mehmet Aga, incorporated, as I read in one book, both Byzantine and Ottoman elements. It was apparent that the mosque, though smaller, attempted to rival if not pass the grandeur of the Hagia Sofia located within sight and walking distance from the Blue Mosque. In many ways, the detailed usage of thousands of ceramic tiles awes each onlooker.

Furthermore, the fact that the Blue Mosque is a functioning mosque in Istanbul adds to the reverence one feels as they walk through its doors. No one wears their shoes. Women remained covered. Respect for the Islamic faith was expected in its place of worship. I greatly appreciated this. After having taught religion, namely a course entitle World Religions, in a Catholic school for five years now, I have tried to impart an unbiased approach to viewing all religions around the world. Each religion possesses its own innate beauty. Each religion commands and truly deserves the respect for its tradition. If someone of another faith were to interrupt a Catholic church traditions during a Mass, my students would be upset. This is why I felt such a sense of respect for a faith not that of my own, one that wants to share its faith with those who might not know much about it.

Ultimately, I felt that opening the Blue Mosque up to the public so that Muslims and non-Muslims could not only appreciate a monumental architectural triumph of the 15th century, was very welcoming. It also allowed me to openly observe Islamic faith practices, which I hope will provide beneficial in my future years teaching my World Religions course.

Side note: I overheard one Turkish man state that the architect of the blue mosque designed hundreds of mosques throughout his lifetime helped design many other mosques posthumously with a book he wrote detailing his endeavors constructing the Blue Mosque. I also heard that he worked in a small part on certain structures for the Hagia Sofia.

One of the other things that we did in those first few days was visit an underwater cistern across from the Hagia Sofia that was built during the time of Justinian's reign. Honestly, the eeriness and complacency that lingered just below the Sultanahmet Square was probably one of the highlights of my trip. It was not necessarily fascinating in its design, but it certainly was peaceful. One thing that was noticeable was the absence of the overwhelming number of tourists that pass through the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque each day. Though this cistern is no secret, it fortuitously did not have the heavy crowds I had quickly become accustomed to. It was a break. It was a chance to cool off from the hot day's sun and see yet another form of architecture I had never been privy to up until this point. I believe the most interesting things in the cistern were existence of two heads of Medusa at the bottoms of the pillars. Historians have not quite established how or why they ended up there. Most theorize that the heads came to Turkey during Greek rule of Turkey (hence their use at the bottom of the pillars in the cistern)

A Little Sense of History

2009-07-15T19:19:00.001-05:00

Our first official day in Turkey. I spent the entire flight over wondering how my experiences during my previous trip to Turkey would impact this course. I must admit that the first time I went to Turkey I knew nothing about the country or the culture; however, now five years and numerous courses later that is a different story. Turkey is perhaps one of the most unique countries of the Middle East primarily due to its somewhat dual identity – East and West. Just as the country itself lies on two continents, the traditions that define the country's core are in constant disunity. As Turkey has opened itself up to the outside world this identity crisis has become even more pronounced. As we wandered through the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofia, I'm reminded of the Ottoman roots that run so clearly through the country itself.

Many of the institutions have retained their sense of history, and how could you not, with the constant historical reminders scattered throughout the city. This sense of history was one of the reasons I was so drawn to the country. Turkey's ability to move forward and continue to redefine itself, often to the surprise and amazement of many Western countries, while maintaining the historical perspective that has allowed them to progress as far as they have today. These monuments attest to the rich sense of history that continues to pervade the country and its people.