Too Many Memories to Count

I'm finally back in the States after being abroad for a month and I am so happy to be back! Don't get me wrong I had a wonderful time, in fact I had an absolutely fan-freaking-tastic time! Looking back the thing that weighed on me the most was all the traveling, living in hotels and out of a suitcase for a month. After I counted I realized I stayed in 11 different places throughout my travels in Turkey and Greece. That is roughly staying every place for 2.7 days, although we stayed some places longer and others shorter the moving is what got to me in the end. I really do think I could live abroad, I think I could even live abroad in Turkey (maybe after a needed Turkish class), but living abroad is different than traveling abroad. I would like to have my own place, not live out of a suitcase, make friends, you know all the things you do where ever you live. I almost felt that I had been living in Istanbul once my parents got there. It was as if I was showing off the new city that I lived in. I was so proud of what I had learned and everything I knew about the city and how well I knew to get around on my own. It was great because I knew where everything was and some history (thanks to Selime), but then we left for Greece and I left my new home again, probably never to return.

The things I missed most while I was traveling were (I figured I'd make a list since everyone else did):
1. Cheese its
2. Ice
3. Air conditioning
4. People waiting their turn in line!
5. People not standing close to me. You know how Americans stand super far away from each other, like we all smell or something? Well I like that! I don't like people standing awkwardly close to me, especially at atms!
So I guess going abroad did make me realize that I do love America, even though it has a lot of bad things, it has a lot of really great things that I missed. Don't get cocky America, you're not that great!

Things I miss about Greece and Turkey now that I am back in the States:
1. Friendly, helpful, hospitable people
2. Trendy clothes
3. Really cheap stuff!
4. Mosques and minarets
5. Beautiful views everywhere
6. Istanbul!

The trip really was fantastic. I love meeting new people, making new friends, and going to new places. I had never been anywhere like Istanbul and probably never will again because it is so unique! I was definitely sad to go, but I am happy to be back. Now that I am home everyone wants to know how my trip was and really all I can say is amazing because so much happened and so many memories were made that it is hard to spill out all the information I learned in a five minute span. I think if people want to really know what Istanbul is like, they should go there and find out!

I'm a Turkophile.

It’s impossible to pick just one thing I love most about Turkey. In fact, the thing I am most pleased to have taken away from my experiences in Turkey, is my new found respect for the Turkish people and their country. I find myself revisiting the old, yet busy, streets in my mind. My daydreams include touring Hagia Sophia, hearing a call to prayer, or cliff jumping into the Mediterranean Sea. I even think of the friends I made during my adventures there.

When discussing Turkey with my friends here in the United States, I struggle to convey into words the things which I loved. It is impossible to describe Hagia Sophia, Mt. Olympus, Taksim Square, or even just the excitement of being in Istanbul, and feel that you are doing a proper job of explaining any of these things. To appreciate Turkey’s people, culture, history, and it’s tradition of progress, one must physically visit Turkey. You can’t appreciate how far Turkey has come, if you have not learned about what it once was. I feel lucky to have been able to learn about Turkey firsthand and from the Turks themselves.

I can say confidently that I am not the same after having such an experience abroad. My interests and my opinions have changed significantly and I feel better off because of it. I will cherish the friends I made and the experiences I was able to have with them. This really is KU’s best kept study abroad secret and the experience of a lifetime.

Finally, I have my own list of advice for the next group:

1) When learning how to say ‘thank you’ in Turkish, don’t be like me. Practice pronunciation with the group and make sure you can say it right. Otherwise you might accidentally say something inappropriate.

2) Spend a little extra for an experience. I recommend Kadir’s Treehouses in Olympus for your free weekend, and go sea kayaking. It was worth every lira spent. We made some awesome friends. Cliff jumping was awesome.

3) Sunscreen is expensive there. Pack two bottles (minimum) in your suitcase. And aloe. You will need it, and won’t regret it.

4) Learn to haggle. Not to brag, but I got pretty good at it.

5) Try Raki.

Reflections

 Since coming back home I have been fairly busy and I am just now getting a chance to sit down and write my wrap up blog about my experience.  It has come to my attention over the last week that I have no good way to write in a clear and concise manner what occurred  over the last month of my life.  How do you take the best experience of your life and write it into a neat little blog? I do not know the answer but I will attempt to do so, however I will probably fall short of my goal.  There are no words to express the deep love and admiration I have for the people and the places that we traveled to in our much too brief encounter with Turkey. I learned so much about the people and the culture that when my friends ask how my trip was I fall short and answer simply, "It was amazing!"  This is how I feel, and in truth and it cannot fully explain what this trip meant to me.  For those of you who have not been out of the country, I do not suggest starting with Turkey.  This is simply because a place this magnificent cannot help but to soil the impression of the other countries that you may visit. To elaborate on this I will explain some of the facets that I found the most fascinating and enlightening during my stay.
     The people who inhabit Turkey were hands down my favorite part of the culture. The Turkish people that we encountered were some of the nicest people that I have ever met.  They are always welcoming and ready to assist people when they need it, and trust me we needed it, they are curious about your life and what your plans for the future hold.  It is truly refreshing to visit a place where you get the impression that the small talk matters to the other person.  I never felt awkward or out of place despite being an american that was unable to speak the native language and I truly appreciate that sense of community. Another aspect of community that I was unfamiliar with was the connection of neighbors, even in a city the size of Istanbul, it is out of place for people not to know their neighbors which is a rarity in the states.
        Another aspect of Turkey that I felt was unique was the sheer amount of history contained in a country that is not very big.  Everywhere that you look you will find some object that is over two thousand years old and that to me is remarkable! We visited so many locations that have stood through several civilizations and remain standing today.  This history prompted me to imagine all of the people that came before us, people that I have heard about and read about in history books.  This is an amazing sensation and for me made the universe seem connected and that we are all part of a "circle of life," there will be people who stand in these same ruins hundreds or thousands of years from now and imagine the same things. It is truly remarkable to think that this has occurred and will continue long after I leave this mortal coil.
      One huge part of Turkish life that fascinated me was the political realm.  I truly believe that having knowledge of the government and the people that are running for office is an important part of life and should not be overlooked.  The Turkish people seem to be of the same opinion as myself as they all are acutely aware of who is running, what the possible changes that the person could bring, how the government works and they take this knowledge to heart. Turkey consistently has a high voter turnout rate, in fact the past election Turkey boasted an 87% turnout rate, which is remarkable.
       Overall my experience in Turkey was life changing, I am enrolling in Turkish in the fall and by next summer I should be able to go back to my new favorite place.  For anyone who wonders if they should try the study abroad program out, I say a resounding yes.  Turkey is a hidden gem in the world scope and has so much to offer everyone that if you ever get a chance to visit, please do not hesitate!

In the end, it never really ends

I’ve been told in order to get over a lover it takes one month for every week you dated. Well, it’s been about a week since we left Turkey and I don’t think three months will be long enough. Luckily, I’ve taken some pieces of Turkey to sustain me for a bit. What did they do before digital cameras and Skype?

I think the thing I miss most about Turkey is being able to wear my curiosity goggles shamelessly. As a 25-year-old, you have a “why” daily quota; one I fill to the point of slightly sloshing over the edges when moved. When in another country, people find it refreshing that you want to understand them. When in the country of your origin, you’re supposed to know why people can’t bring their dogs into grocery stores and why some people only hug with their shoulders.

For the next few weeks, I’ll continue to ask questions of Turkey. Why is a country with such a rich history scared of their own culture? Should they be? Why is the media filtered when the average citizen freely speaks their mind?

Because we were free to interact with the culture in our own way, I have more than enough questions. However, I think Turkey is still searching for some of the answers, and the rest of the world is sitting back and speculating. I’m happy to join the crowd.

A Few Tips For the Next Group:

1. Bring a water bottle: You’ll want to fill it up at the hotel every morning. Otherwise, you’ll have to buy water throughout the day.

2. Make as many contacts as possible: And hang out with them! You only have the opportunity to meet and talk to the locals once.

3. Go somewhere in or around Antalya on your free time: We went to Kadir’s Treehouses in Olympus and it was SWEET. I’ve been told the whole region is nice.

4. Bring sunscreen: AND wear it.

5. Try everything! I can’t stress it enough. It may cost you a bit more in the end, but the investment pays off.

But...Where's the Apple Tea?

Well, I got home. After about 20 hours of travelling while having what I suspect was food poisoning, it’s good to be back. The first meal I had in the US was a burger, fries, and Oreo mint shake at Steak n’ Shake. If that doesn’t say “I’m proud to be an American,” I don’t know what will.

But regardless of free water, ice cold air conditioning, and the good ol’ Kansas countryside, I can’t help but notice my change on my outlook of life and the world. That’s kind of hard to miss. I try to tell people about my experience in Turkey, and I just can’t say it all. For some things there are no words. How do I explain the awe that made me feel weightless in one of the beautiful mosques, with people praying and giving their devotion as I stood out like a sore thumb in a sacred space? How do I explain the tingling in my fingers when I touched an ancient column—a column that someone else laid their hands upon thousands of years ago? How do I describe the feeling of immersing oneself in a culture that has so many misconceptions in Western eyes? I’ve been trying to contemplate all these things the past few days. When someone asks “How was Turkey?” I wish I had a flowchart or something. People have yet to ask me “What did you learn in Turkey?” and that might be a good thing, because I still have been sorting that out. Let’s see, what did I learn? List time!

1. It’s never worth what they say it is.
2. Marble is NOT A GOOD WALKING SURFACE.
3. Never say “tashak” unless you want to be laughed at.
4. Some guy named Ataturk was important or something.
5. All people of any nationality cannot resist the awful catchiness of “Blow” by Ke$ha.

And the list goes on, but those are definitely the top five.

But the most important question to ask is, “Was it worth it? Was it worth all that money you paid?” I say that it is always worth it to expand your worldview. In fact, in this day and age, it’s the most vital thing I could ever do for myself. In America, where we tend to lump the world’s population into two groups of Westerners and Easterners, I grew up there were two sides to everything. You’re either a respectable person, or you’re a Muslim terrorist (or a Commie). You’re either a highly logical student of philosophy, or you’re a backwards Bedouin who don’t know left from right. After visiting a country that was influenced by both Western and Eastern powers and ideals, my belief that the world wasn’t black and white became solidified. In fact, I would just throw away the whole black and white analogy, gray shades in between and all. The world is colorful. I could go on a philosophical diatribe here, but I’ll spare you.

Bottom line is, there is much to learn from Turkey. You can learn what it means to be secular and a democracy by looking at the successes and failures of Turkey’s government and civil society. You can learn the deep connections between three major religions, and even walk where some of the first believers of each religion walked. You can learn about a crossroads of the world by looking at the shores of a sea that borders three continents and cradled the beginnings of many civilizations. You can learn what it means to be a human being, when just a smile bridges languages, religions, and how rich one is.

That’s what I learned in Turkey.

Capital

  There are some sociological concepts and theories that I have great respect for and have fallen in love with.  One of these concepts that I find most fascinating was written by Bourdieu, which that in a nutshell states that there are three types of capital which people have on varying levels and the interplay of these determines your social standing.  The three types are divided into social capital, (who you know and their connections), cultural capital, (what you know about culture i.e. art/music) and the rather straightforward economic capital. This is an oversimplification of the theory but it will suffice so that my story makes sense to those who are unfamiliar with Bourdieu.
            The morning started out with a simple lecture in which we discussing the climate and culture of recent Turkish politics. Then Elif asked what we would like to do over the last few days so that we had a little background on the papers that we will write when we get back.  Sarah said she was thinking about writing on journalism and the lack of free speech in Turkish media.  Elif mentioned that she had a friend that works for ATV (one of the major Turkish networks) and she would give him a call. This is when the capital exchange and for me the magic happened. Elif has a good deal of social capital because of her experiences as an educator and as a native of Istanbul and is able to leverage some types of capital for others.  This was the case which allowed us to visit the news station, she used her social capital to gain us admission and we in turn from the experience gained cultural and social capital.  This was a super interesting experience for me particularly because it’s a theory that has made sense to me and seeing it work in action was a validation of sorts. 
            When we actually arrived at the station it felt like we were treated like very important people.  This was due to the fact that Elif’s friend is a producer and has large amounts of social capital in the station as well as in Turkey in general.  We were given the chance to interview an executive editor as well as an anchor and a journalist.  Throughout the conversations with the staff at the station we gained insight into how the news media functions and its role in national politics as well an experience that not many people have the opportunity to indulge in.  This unique experience resulted in an increase of the cultural capital for the group.  Now that I have seen the exchange of the forms of capital as laid out by Bourdieu I have a deeper respect for the field of sociology.  It is now readily apparent to me that I have chosen the perfect field for myself and I am excited to more of the theoretical transform into reality.

SURPRISE you're meeting someone famous.

Imagine you’re sitting in your classroom, minding your own business learning, when the teacher gives a call and lands you an interview with Johnny Depp, President Obama, and Jet Li, and then a tour of the set of Star Wars to top it all off. Well that didn’t happen. But really that’s okay—SOMETHING MUCH COOLER HAPPENED. Professor Andac called one of the major news companies of Istanbul and got us an interview with the editor, anchor, and a journalist, as well as a tour of the studio and meeting another major news anchor to add icing to the cake. I know approximately 0.0% of you will agree with me in saying that it was so fascinating and exciting, but bear with me here and let the nerd in me take flight.

First of all, it was completely unscheduled and unplanned. One moment we were discussing the subject of freedom of the press in Turkey, and the next moment a couple phone calls were made and we were madly rushing to get to the hotel and look decent before heading to the studio. You know, no big deal.

First we met with the editor. As we sat down in his office, I couldn’t help but notice several flat screen TVs on the wall, all showing a different news channel. Actually, TVs were everywhere—hanging from the ceiling, on walls, and there was probably one on the back of the bathroom door (though this is pure speculation). The editor didn’t really speak English because he’s and “old school journalist,” meaning he entered the career before America demanded everyone know English. We (and by “we” I mean Sara) asked questions about the role of the media in Turkish peoples’ everyday lives, their role in the recent election, how they differ from others on their perspective on events, and freedom of the press. One subject that struck me as odd was the view the editor held about freedom of the press. As some may know, the Turkish government has thrown journalists in jail for not being in alignment with the party in power—something that is very wrong in American and European eyes. The editor didn’t consider it a big issue, and thought it was something that just happened. You’d think as a journalist he would want to be free to print something against the government if he wanted, but later he revealed that his news company was pretty much aligned with the party in power (AKP) anyway. Take that as you will, I just hope that that attitude changes amongst Turkish journalists.

Talking to the anchor and journalist was also very insightful. The anchor, Defne, spoke perfect English and with only a slight accent, was interested to know young Americans’ perceptions of Turkey and Istanbul. The journalist we met also asked us about our perceptions before and after coming to Turkey—and she also added valuable and honest insight as a person of Turkish descent who lived in London and Germany as well as Istanbul. She acknowledged the problem with self-censorship in journalism and how the government restricted progress for the Turkish people in some ways. Everyone can only hope that the people will make the right decision that will lead Turkey to a more progressive and democratic country.

Overall, it was a day I did not expect. Dear Tomorrow: I dare you to top it.

ATV Television or Elif Knows Everyone

Our morning started with a lecture on Turkish history by the Bosporus Sea. Not too shabby if you ask me. However, since this is Istanbul, something amazing always happens. Elif called up an old friend of hers to see about getting some information on Turkish media for Sara. Within an hour a private tour had been arranged for us at ATV Television (we call that social capital in the field of Sociology). We all rushed back to the hotel so we could look a bit more appropriate, and we headed to the station.

Once there we met the Executive Editor, Cengiz Er, and he spent about twenty minutes of his time answering numerous questions about journalism in Turkey. In his office, five televisions run continuously behind us and his eyes subtlety scan over them every few minutes. On his desk are a large stack of papers from many different news sources, and his office is home to many books. He is a very nice man, but speaks no English. While translating for him Elif tells us “he is an old school journalist who didn’t need to know English.” Our time with him is short but valuable.

Next we met Daphne. Upon entering Daphne’s office she stands to greet us and shakes each of our hands. Her eyes make fierce contact with each of ours and immediately you can sense she is a very strong woman. Daphne’s English is perfect, and besides one or two words, her accent sounds like she could have been from the Midwest. She inquires about views on Turkey before and after our trip. We talk about how friendly and safe Turkey is but that we were surprised by it. What is most interesting during our conversation with Daphne is her work experience over twenty years in journalism. She told us that when she did daytime news for three months, many complaints were filed against her because she was not easy to understand. She clarified that her vocabulary is very extensive and too dense for a daytime Turkish viewer. Daphne also went on to discuss how much higher news ratings are in Turkey compared to the United States, and along with that, how much higher voter turnout is during elections. When it was almost time for her to go on air she thanked us for our time (this woman was incredibly polite), and we continued our tour.

Later in the tour we found ourselves in the news room during a developing story on the Syrian refugees and Angelina Jolie’s visit to the refugee camp. The pace at which the people worked was intense and they scrambled and shouted to pull up archived footage for the story. We watched them piece together an important story in just a matter of minutes. After the story was over we were introduced to the news anchor, she firmly shook our hands, and rushed off the set saying “I hope you have a great rest of your trip!”

The final anchor, whose name none of us can remember or pronounce, was the most relatable. She was young, spoke with a British accent, and was very sweet. She talked a lot about censorship, her views on different news organizations, and how she thinks Western news sources portray Turkish politics in a very negative light. What struck me most about her was how she quickly sat down close to me, and spoke as though she were college peer. In fact, I can’t remember a single time that she stopped smiling. Our conversation was short but packed full of information on Turkey (both serious and fun). At the end, she wrote down a list of cost friendly clubs and sent us on our way.

Overall, the experience was amazing. I suggest that if anyone truly wants to learn about free speech issues in any country, a news station is the place to be.

ATV Television Part I

The plan for today was to go to a local coffee shop by the Bosphorus strait and place Turkey’s political climate into a more recent context. The last time we discussed Turkish politics/history we were still in the Ottoman Empire. So, the biggest part of the lecture would cover Ataturk. We left the hotel around 10 am and got to a quaint little coffee shop. The discussion/class was going great. We were able to fill all the little crevices in our knowledge with bridges of information and it was at this time that I decided I’d really like to talk about freedom of speech/press in Turkey for my research paper.

We talked until noon and then we started discussing what Istanbul sites might be helpful to gather the last bit of information for our topic. I voiced my idea about talking to the local press and my professor jumped on it. She said she had a connection at a Turkish TV station. We talked back and forth about background reading until both the professor and I were pumped about the topic. At this point, she called her contact.

I sat there with a huge goofy smile as she spoke with her contact in Turkish. Having no idea what she was saying I began making up my own dialogue. I was halfway through scripting how impressed this acquaintance would be with my knowledge of Turkish politics when she placed her hand over the mouthpiece to tell us we would be headed to the news station in 30 minutes. My first thought was this is all happening way too fast. I need to practice the 10 Turkish words I know. How can I work in counting to five in conversation? Wait, I need to read more about the Turkish media. Who is he? What is this news station? I need to brush my teeth.

Our professor sent us a PDF concerning the recent controversy about censorship as we left the coffee shop. Thoughts whizzed through my head as we grabbed food and hopped in the van. I plopped on the bench seat and scrolled through the 86-page PDF looking for the executive summary. I managed to read through the preface and summary pulling my head away from the monitor every now and again to ask questions. “Was the investigation of Ergenekon intended to be like the truth commissions in South Africa? How do you pronounce Doğan Group? For whom does Gareth Jenkins report?”

I managed to write down five or six question by the time we got to the hotel. We ran to our rooms, changed clothes, and jumped back in the van. I was practicing pronouncing Ergenekon and Doğan as we pulled up to the studio. I knew I was being very bold by thinking I might be able to bring up these issues, but in the end if it came down to having to ask lame questions about what it’s like to be a reporter in Turkey I can bullshit without practice.

The huge window ridden buildings were as intimidating as American media conglomerates. Apparently, the business world’s desire to see its reflection extends past America. Three or four guards and an x-ray machine guarded the main entrance. In addition, every door we passed through required sliding a plastic card over a sensor: much like an electronic hotel key.

We opened the door to the ATV newsroom and were greeted by our professor’s acquaintance. He motioned for us to follow him. As we turned the corner to the open room I immediately felt at home: rows of computer monitors accompanied by rolling chairs and stress-ridden journalists filled the floor. TVs were mounted in every corner of the ceiling. Buffalo Wild Wings doesn’t have shit on this place.

We followed our new acquaintance to his desk where he made a few phone calls. He told us we would be speaking to Daphne (a well-known ATV national television reporter). We chatted for a bit while we waited. He left for a moment and returned saying that the Executive Editor of ATV Television was in his office at the moment and was willing to talk with us. Our professor turned to me and asked, “Would you be interested in speaking with him?” I shrugged, “Sure, I guess. Executive Editor of a Turkish news station, I guess we can spare a moment for him. NBD”

We followed in wide-eyed bewilderment as our professor led us to his office. Through his glass wall, we could see him on the phone. As we waited for him to set down the receiver, I leaned over to our professor and asked, “Is this network part of the Doğan group? I didn’t have time to look it up on the way here.” She told me to ask her friend. I leaned over to him and repeated my question. He shook his head and said no several times as he motioned for us to walk in the Executive Editor’s office. There were only four chairs sitting in front of his desk; we waited to sit until more were pulled in from the newsroom. Our acquaintance placed a chair behind me and whispered into my ear, “We are a network that supports the state. We are in opposition to Doğan Group.”

I sat down and attempted to process this information as we made introductions. My first thought was crap, crap, crap don’t say anything offensive.

It became obvious our interviewee did not speak English. He dismissed this fact by saying he’s and old school journalist. As a result, our professor had to interpret for us. I wondered if I should be looking at him as she talked, as is the custom when a professional interpreter is used. However, he seemed to be talking to her. So, I followed suit: looking back-and-forth between her and him as they spoke. After she briefly explained what we are doing in Turkey, she asked us if we had any questions of him. Everyone looked straight at me. Apparently, this was my moment to shine.

I wanted to pull out my laptop, but I also wanted to get candid information. As a result, I decided to be as active in the conversation as I could without speaking the language. I’m not sure which question I asked first, but I’ll regurgitate what I do remember:

I said that in America, we desire our media to be transparent (of course our desires are rarely met). Then, I asked where his media organization fell in accordance with objectivity. I was surprised by how candid he was. He said his organization was right of center (they are pro-government/pro-AK party). He went on to say that he believes there is one truth, but that you have to read several papers to get to the truth. He pointed to the stack of newspapers on his desk. Along with the eight or so TV monitors mounted on the walls of his office I gathered that the truth is a hard animal to catch.

I said that the West has applauded Al Jazeera on their coverage and involvement in the uprising in Egypt. Then, I asked him whether he believed the media in Turkey was taking part in social change or if they were merely reporting on the change as it took place. First, he said that the Turkish media also applauds Al Jazeera in their coverage of the ongoing Middle Eastern revolutions. Then, he said that Turkish media also plays a large part in social change. Their part in the recent elections has been very important. They hold debates and discuss opinions, just as American media does during presidential elections.

He said freedom of press is written into the Turkish constitution and plays a valuable part of the process. However, when one party has a lot of control it is natural that the press becomes more sensitive to the majority party. He went on to say that the Western world is quick to point fingers at Turkey for its supposed lack of freedom of the press, but – in reality – the press in Turkey is not a backward institution.

Before leaving his office, I was given the opportunity to ask one more question. I asked what he thought about Western media’s coverage of the elections. He said he believed it was pretty accurate with the exception of a few pieces by the Economist. He said he felt these pieces were VERY bias and lacked integrity. As a subscriber to the Economist, I left his office holding my tongue.

The Media's Power

Today we got to experience something that most students, or people for that matter, will never get to experience in their lives. As we were sitting in a café on the Bosporus sipping on our chi and apple tea, Elif decides to call up a friend that works for a major television network station in Istanbul. Atv Television is the television station, and within an hours time we are on our way to see the station and meet the news anchors! When we first arrived at the station we were all standing around uncomfortably and confused as to why we are getting this privilege to enter, as were the people working there. As we walked by they were all staring at us, obviously knowing we were Americans and wondering why we were exploring their office on this Friday afternoon.

Elif meet up with her friend and he led us into the office of the Executive Editor, Cengiz Er. Even more astonished now we walk into his office and each introduced ourselves, as if we might be important people. We each take a seat and Cengiz excuses himself in Turkish saying that he does not speak English, because in his generation it was not important to learn. The first thing I notice when we walk in is the large stack of newspapers sitting on his desk, one that is open that he was reading just moments before we entered. Although we were at a television station, they have to keep up with all the other news sources constantly. Along with the newspapers, there were six televisions on his back wall, so he was continuously be watching his news station and his competitors. Even during our conversation he would scan the televisions behind us and bring his attention right back to the conversation, but still keeping in mind all of the news streaming behind us. Obviously being an important man at the station, we did not want to take too much of his time, so after we chatted for a bit we walked over to another office.

The next office we entered was no let down either. We come to realize that the beautiful woman sitting at the desk in front of us is one of the news anchors for the station, Daphne. She is the anchor of a nightly news segment, and although she said she had been in the business for 20 years, she looked as though she was 30 at the oldest. She spoke English, because she was younger, so we could communicate with her much better. She was interested to know what our perception of Turkey was before we came and now, as most people here are. As I have written before, I really knew nothing about Turkey before I entered the country. I knew it wasn’t a desert with camels, but what it was, I did not know. Then I realized, being in a newsroom why I knew nothing about Turkey, because American news stations do not broadcast anything about Turkey. Sure, we all hear and see pictures of Iraq and Syria all the time, but Turkey is never on the agenda for American news stations. So if there is no coverage of the Turkish news, how could I know anything about it unless I did other research on my own?

Many people were worried about me going to Turkey because of the bordering countries on the East side, solely based on the violence that occurs their on television. However, Istanbul is actually a cosmopolitan city and extremely westernized, yet we only see that parts that want to be seen by American news stations. After we talked to Daphne, we met another very nice woman who worked for the station. She had only worked for the station for a month and a half, but had been in the business in London for many years. She told us a story of when Hilary Clinton came to the station she worked at in London and it was her job to introduce her to everyone and get her to where she needed to be on time. When it came for Hilary to do her interview, she was told by Hilary’s people that she would not go on the air unless Hilary’s people got to choose the students from a specific university that would be in the interview with her and that the women all had to be wearing burqas. And then it all made perfect sense. Of course we all know news stations are biased and only show what they want the viewer to see, but this real life example took me to the extreme. The United States only wants the perception of the Middle East and surrounding countries to be of suppressed women wearing burqas, even though in Turkey most women don’t wear the full burqa, usually only a headscarf, but many more now a days don’t wear anything to cover their heads at all.

It was so interesting to then travel to the newsroom, where they were doing live coverage and having a television show right in front of us. With people in the newsroom shouting out orders in Turkish to get the right pictures and images that they wanted on the screen. But those images are all chosen very wisely and everything that the viewer sees is never random. Whether in Turkey or the United States the media plays the largest role in how we perceive other countries, it is how we get our news, and it is what we rely on. Without it we would know nothing about the outside world, but with it you have to look at it with an objective eye to distinguish what is truth and what is being played to catch the viewers attention and leave a specific image in their minds.

Istanbul or Izmir?

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, Ankara (the capital) is the second, and Izmir is the third. Izmir has the second largest port, behind Istanbul. With Istanbul and Izmir both on the coast, and being very large cities, one could speculate they would be pretty much the same. You would be very wrong.

Izmir is described by those who live there as having a much slower way of life. The constant hustle and fast pace life of Istanbul is not found in Izmir, and the locals like it that way. The political landscape of Izmir is also much different. There you will find strong supporters of CHP and a strong resistance to AKP. It also helps that Izmir was the birthplace of the founder of Turkey, Mr. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who founded CHP as the first political party in the Republic.

Personally I love the pace of life in Izmir and, if I were not a tourist, I would settle there over Istanbul. I like that people know their neighbors really well and I imagine the stress level much lower. Along with being very traditional in family and community life, I like how progressive and secular the city is. Izmir is also large enough to have plenty to do when you feel like it and beautiful scenery to go along with it.

As a tourist, and someone who loves big cities, I do adore Istanbul. It is rich with history and culture, and there is never a dull moment. That said if you don’t know how to make yourself slow down you can feel constantly drained. If the rest of the world stopped, Istanbul would keep on turning. Nothing can slow down the people of Istanbul. It doesn’t matter what day of the week it is or even if it is a holiday people are always in the streets, shopping, getting coffee, going to hookah (okay, that is a nice pace of life), or they are out at the bars.

Both cities are wonderful, and great for their own reasons. I think seeing both shows a dramatic difference in city living, and also among the Turks themselves. They are friendly everywhere, some just enjoy moving a little more slowly and taking their time.

Huge CIty vs. Big City

 Istanbul is a sprawling metropolis that ranks as one of the largest cities in the world.  The size and the scope shows in the way  that people interact everyday.  Sirens blare, horns honk and people hustle and bustle every hour of the day. Simply crossing the street is an exhausting adventure with everyone jostling to get across without being smashed by a car that has no regard for pedestrians.  As you walk down the street salesmen continually try to get your attention by inviting you in or by calling out to you in English, "Come in and take a look." The streets are a lot like a busy river with millions of fish swimming by trying to get to their destination.  This is not a bad thing however, I love the roar of the wild streets and people are still helpful but it can be overwhelming.
     However, Izmir is almost the opposite of Istanbul. Comparatively speaking Izmir is a snail to the race horse that is Istanbul.  It is still a massive city  with a population of around four millilon people, but you would never guess based on how people act.  Izmir streets are open and calm, like a gentle stream with a few schools of fish drifting along.  It could be due to the fact that Izmir is a coastal city in which a beautiful view can be seen in any direction.  The neighborhoods were the most striking thing to me though, each one is a community in which they share gardens, conversations, meals and most importantly lives.  It's amazing to me that in a city that size the community is still valued and cherished.  Everywhere you go people are willing to lend a helping hand and it's a beautiful thing.

Izmir

 We finally had the chance to stay with a host family during our trip and it was a blast!!! Sinan, who works as a graphic designer and website designer for the tour company that handled our travel arrangements, was our host for the night. Right away he was very friendly and told us that we cold ask anything that we wanted to. He told us that he lives with his twin brother as well as his parents and they have lived in the same apartment for over twenty years.  My first impression of the home was that the family did much more with the space that they had then Americans do.  Everything has a place and everything goes back into it's place. We then had some coffee on the balcony and talked about hobbies, music, films and other small talk. Sinan and I bonded over our love for rap music, it was fun to quote lyrics back and forth, apparently there are some pop culture aspects that transcend language barriers. Then we talked about elections and what was wrong with AKP and how much he hates the current prime minister.  Watching the election coverage was interesting because I could absorb a lot of what was going on simply because they use a format similar to American news.  I was sad to see how frustrated Sinan was because of the fear of the reelection of Erdoğan.  A lot of Turks fear regressing into a nation that is radically Islamic and does not allow freedom, similar to Iran etc.
     Taking a break from the serious topics we talked about the lighter topic of sports.  During my travels in the last month I have grown to appreciate football on a whole new level.  Armed with my recently broadened knowledge of football history and current players I was able to converse with Sinan for a while and it was stellar. A program showing the highlights of the Barcelona football club was playing and we both watched in awe of Messe, who happens to be one of the greatest players that ever played.
      At some point during this Songul, the mom, arrived and Sinan was quick to help carry in all the groceries.  She didnt speak English but from the expressions of body language and Sinan translating we could tell that she was really happy to invite us in and cook a meal for us.  She was a ball of fire that was quick to show affection and ensure that we had everything we needed. The meal was fantastic and very filling.
     The three guys went down to the seaside and we tried to get beer at a cafe but it was election day so alcohol was not allowed. Sinan suggested going to a store and getting some and drinking close to the water, which we happily agreed to. And it was fun until the police arrived, apparently the police are corrupt and love harassing people, thus we were forced to ditch the beer. We made reference to a certain NWA song as the police were combing the beach. 
    We went back to the house after the sea and had a beer each and talked some more about Turkish culture and such. It's striking how similar yet different how the American and Turkish cultures are. I believe that I have found a new place that I could someday call home.  As we were leaving Sinan and Songul both lamented the fact that we were only there for one night as were we.  I love this country and the interactions of people.  It's truly a hidden gem among the countries of the world.

Chilling with a Turk

I was excited to do the home stay part of the trip. I was especially exited that we were going to be staying with a woman our age. I didn’t really know what to expect. It was Election Day; So, I guess I expected to watch the elections a bit. Here, they have a law against selling alcohol on Election Day, if only that could prevent all poor judgment.

We met our host outside her house at about 5 pm. She lived in the same area as the boys’ host.

My first impression of her was she was cute. She was wearing a dress that looked like a man’s shirt. It fell at her upper thighs, where it tapered in a bit. She had long brown hair pulled up and olive skin. She was 5-foot-4 with brown eyes.

She looked about 25. Later, I learned that she was 26. She wasn’t very talkative, but she had a way of anticipating your needs. We opened the door to her basement apartment and rolled our bags in. The bottom portion of the doorframe was covered in evil eyes. She flipped off her shoes into a basket next to the door and asked us to do the same.

After directing us to our rooms, she asked the three greatest questions: Were we hungry? Did we need a shower? Did we need to do laundry? We jumped at the laundry offer and decided to wait on the other offers. After starting the laundry, we went into the living room and started to watch TV.

She apologized right away that her attention would be focused on the elections tonight. We all said it was OK. I was interested in seeing the results and reactions to the results. However, after an hour or two it was evident who had won: AKP. I tried to chitchat with her while we flipped back and forth between American television and the elections, but she was very quiet.

She was pretty disappointed to see AKP win. In fact, she didn’t really believe it was possible. However, this seemed to be the result everyone expected. I

think some of her idealism sprouts from the fact that she is young and surrounded by like minded individuals. However, she didn’t like hearing this.

Of course, I would have like to have a more talkative host. Or, to have a larger family to see how they all interact with one another. However, in the end it just goes to show how similar humans are no matter where you go.

What You Can See vs. What Exists

Let’s say you ask five of your acquaintances how they feel about a certain topic. For this example, let’s say you ask five of your acquaintances how they feel about marijuana. Of those five, four of them say it should be legalized. Now, based on this quick survey you come to believe that most people in your area think marijuana should be legalized. However, when your area is surveyed the numbers say otherwise.

For sociologists, this isn’t a new phenomenon. In fact, most professional surveyors understand the difference between those who are available and those who are representative. However, for the average person understanding that the world you surround yourself with is not representative of the world around you can be a bit surprising.

The difference between what you see and what exists is one of the many troubles in defining a culture. I live in Midwest America, where people wave at strangers and you can leave your car unlocked when you run into the store. However, I know this isn’t the America everyone lives in. In addition, Lawrence is the one blue dot in a red state. Lawrence’s population is full of young, educated, middle-class people. I know that this isn’t the America everyone lives in.

The difference between one town/region/neighborhood in Turkey is as vast as it is in America. In Istanbul, you have a large metropolis. It reminds me of a mix between New York City and Washington DC. Though, it would be interesting to compare it to Ankara. However, Izmir is more like San Diego. I always get a more liberal vibe from coastal towns; because Turkey is surrounded by water, this trend seems to have more to do with the history of the different areas.

Izmir is full of rich farmland. As a result, they have a culture based on trade: this trade is not limited to produce but culture as well. Izmir shares a strong history with Greeks who use to make up a large portion of the population. In addition, the city is known for its young population. As a result, the city has a culture of progress. They do not attempt to cling to the past. Instead, they desire progress forward. They fear strong nationalism and Islamic ties. It is no surprise then that CHP continues to win the vote of the residents of Izmir.

Istanbul is more of a diplomatic city. Since the sultan era, the city deals heavily in commerce. As a result, there is a stronger struggle between new and old culture. There, you see a 50/50 split of women wearing headscarfs. And there, you see the conflict between the East and West of Turkey.

Istanbul Casserole and Izmir Pie

You know when they say “New York Minute,” it’s really fast? Well in Istanbul a New York Minute is roughly a bajillion times slower than an Istanbul minute. In Istanbul, the car behind you honks if you pause to let passengers out for 30 seconds. On any street, there are a hundred people walking straight at you, avoiding collision at the last second. Shop owners and owners of little stands call out “Yes, welcome, hello, lady, LADY!” All at the same time. I cling tightly to my purse because someone could snatch my wallet out in a millisecond. At any given time, there are probably 10,000 different noises going off, whether people are gibbering in rapid Turkish, cars are honking, or the tsssss of food on a hot grill hisses in my ear. Pair this with the absence of any empty space as people crowd the sidewalk, busses, subway, intersections, restaurants, and shop, and you have an Istanbul Casserole. I love it in a million ways, and yet at night when I try to sleep, I think, “Can a siren not go off for ONE MINUTE?!”

Now let’s take a look at the coast further south, with Izmir. Izmir has about the third the population of Istanbul, and it shows. On the boardwalk beside the bay, people are dotted here and there, and you have enough space to make an American Comfort Bubble (this requires a three foot diameter around yourself). Restaurants aren’t full to the brim and people seem to take things slower, like crossing streets when they're actually empty. Drivers still honk occasionally, but there’s not a constant, cacophonic chorus. You can see green grass on mountains in the short distant, not hills completely covered by buildings like in Istanbul. Izmir is like my grandma's cherry pie, just a few ingredients that meld into a sweet and tangy taste that you can savor.

I was amazed at how Izmir has ancient history and modernity all rolled into one just like Istanbul. Istanbul has countless mosques, museums, Roman and Greek and Ottoman sites (sometimes all in one space), and many other things older than several Americas. Izmir also had a whole ancient agora (shopping place), as well as artifacts dating back several thousand years. A rich history exists in both places in many ways.

While I love my Istanbul Casserole (bad name, I know, just roll with me here), Izmir and the journey to it were pleasant and a nice break for my brain. Istanbul provides a sensory overload, which is fun and exciting, but Izmir gave me a chance to lay back and wonder what I did with the bath towel I brought. Seriously, I think I left it at one of our hotels…oh well. Anyway, I was pleased to see another side of Turkey, and to be continually surprised by her many wonderful secrets.

How I Met Your Mother and Other Essentials

I’m always a little bit wary about staying in the houses of people I don’t know. Not that I’m not thankful for it—I would rather not be homeless—but there’s always a little fear inside me that I will do something that’s greatly offensive to that host. What if I burp, and that’s the greatest taboo next to dancing around naked?

In order to experience all sides of Turkish customs and hospitality, staying with a host family for one night is on the agenda. This is an excellent idea, but as I said I was a little bit nervous about it. Not knowing what to expect, I sat in our van as the tour guide and driver navigated to the designated house. I knew that Sara, Julie, and I would be staying with a girl “around our age,” which could have meant 16 or 30. I didn’t know anything else.

So we waited until the driver pulled up to a row of apartments with a young woman standing out front. She was petite, with a kind face and a pretty but casual dress on. We heaved our luggage to her apartment and made ourselves comfortable. The first thing she did was ask us to take off our shoes and place them in a bin, and she gave us slippers to wear around her apartment. The apartment was nice, not very much different from my apartment in the US. It had a little kitchen, three bedrooms, a nice open living room, and a couple balconies. Unfortunately her parents were in a summer house at the time, so we didn’t get the whole “traditional family experience,” but seeing how an ordinary young Turkish person spent her night was just fine by me.

On Sunday, 12 June, the elections for Turkey’s parliament were going on. Our host was glued to the TV, anxiously awaiting the results of the country’s decision. Before the numbers started coming in, we watched some American and British TV shows that had Turkish subtitles. How I Met Your Mother was on, as well as Chuck and Camelot. Luckily the shows were in English, otherwise it would have been a lot less relaxing than it was. Later, when the tallies started being counted up, our host watched with disbelief and disappointment when the AKP (the conservative Islamist party) was getting a majority nationwide, and with even more votes than the last election. She had hoped that maybe the CHP (the democratic party) would get many more votes, but the people had spoken. We discussed the similarities and differences between the election process and politics in the US and Turkey. While whichever party gets the most votes in the US has pretty much all the power, parties in Turkey are represented proportionally, which relieves the power monopoly at least a little.

Our host was nice enough to order and buy us take out food, like pizza and pide. We figured she was a little distracted by the elections to want to take too much time to cook, but a mouthful of pide was completely satisfactory. We read and relaxed, and ultimately we had a nice night talking about what it’s like to live in Izmir and Turkey.

My home stay experience was not at all what I expected, but that’s what made it cool. After a week and a half of living in hotels and going to one historical site after another, it was nice to sit down, order food, and watch TV like the good ol’ times.

Host Family of Izmir

When I walked into my host family’s house for the night, I cannot deny I was slightly hesitant. I was worried it would be awkward and concerned that only one member of the house was able to speak English. I’m happy to say I was completely wrong and it has become one of my most cherished experiences since coming to Turkey.

Upon arriving in Sinan’s house we walk to the back porch where Nate and Sinan chat freely. He assures us we can ask him anything about Turkey and himself, because he will not hesitate to answer any question. I notice Sinan’s amazing hospitality. He is constantly making sure we are comfortable, I feel totally at home.

Conversation stays pretty light for the whole night, except for a couple of comments regarding the election later. We talk about his hometown of Izmir, his conscription in the military at age 20 (he is now 25), his girlfriend of three years, and his siblings who are married, as well as, his twin brother who also lives at home. We asked when he might move out of his parent’s home and he replied that most people do not move out until they marry. When we told him the majority of people move out at age eighteen in the United States, he seemed very surprised.

A little later Sinan’s mother calls. Sinan rushes downstairs to assist his mother with the groceries and he carries them all for her without effort; refusing any help we offered. His mother, Songul, is short and friendly and when she enters she hugs Nate and I right away like we are old friends. She holds Nate’s face for some time and mutters many compliments in Turkish.

As she starts to cook dinner a neighbor shows up unannounced and walks right in. She greets Nate and I, but then joins Songul in the kitchen to help her cook while they listen to Turkish music. While they cook, Sinan turns on football and, upon learning I know nothing about it, he tells me excitedly about his favorite team and other good teams worldwide.

Their neighbor leaves and the food is almost finished. Sinan paces between the kitchen and the living room complaining that he is ‘starving to death,’ and can’t wait for dinner. When dinner is ready, we all sit down together and eat. Although Songul does not speak English, she talks as though Turkish the only language we know. She treats us like her children.

My experience with my host family was one of great value to me. Not only did I make a very genuine connection with these people, but they showed me that many of the differences we expect, actually do not exist. In fact, if the food had not been Turkish I might have forgotten I was in a different country and thought I was at a friend’s house for dinner instead. My experience was different from an American dinner in all of the right ways (food, language, beverages, etc), but the same in all of the important ways (a feeling of connection and family).

I know that if I ever return to Turkey I will, without a doubt, revisit my host family of just one night. I also know that if they visit the United States, I will happily return their hospitality in every way. Before this experience I thought I couldn’t possibly fall more in love with Turkey and its people we know as Turks. I was wrong.

One Point Istanbul

Istanbul is a city that is go go go and never stops even at night, while Izmir is much more of a relaxed city. The difference between Istanbul’s 20 million citizens and Izmir’s 4 million citizens makes the distinction clear. However, the aspect of this difference that shocked me a lot was that Izmir has a much younger population. Normally I think of younger people as moving faster and wanting to get ahead first, but I supposed when you have 20 million people running around some are old and some are young and they all just blend together. Izmir is on the coast of the country, while Istanbul is actually connecting the European and Asian side of the country. Istanbul having so many connections in commerce and culture makes it very unique. So far from what we have seen I have enjoyed Istanbul more I think because it is so fast paced and there is so much to do everyday. There is so much rich history in both places, but I am more interested in the Mosques and the Churches over than the ruins here in Izmir. This is not to say that Izmir is not amazing, because it is beautiful along the coast and then the ruins from Greek times are also amazing. So it really is hard to choose one over the other.

However, I think the fact that Istanbul was the first place in Turkey that we went to and we spent about eight days there made me fall in love with it. Because the culture and people are so different than anything that I have ever experienced before in my life, it captured my attention and is still holding it. Istanbul seems to have no countryside, while Izmir has much more rural areas and locally grown food and products. Although I know around 4 million people populate Izmir, it is much more spread out than Istanbul and seems like more of a smaller town than a city. For example, today we stopped on the side of the road and bought freshly picked strawberries and crab apples, and olive oil, from a family selling it on the side of the road. To me, that gives off much more of a small town feel. Of course I enjoy being on the coast, which is something that Istanbul cannot offer in the same way. But because so many bodies of water surround Istanbul you still get the coastal feel. There is just something about the pace of Istanbul that keeps my heart rushing and wanting to see more. In Izmir, the pace is slower and much more relaxing.

So yes, I have clearly picked that Istanbul is my favorite of the two although I hate to do that! The people in Istanbul are so diverse and always moving, yet so hospitable. So although, from the election it seems that Izmir is more current with the growing democratic country, it may just be that in Istanbul there are too many people. Too many uneducated people that do not know if AKP or CHP will be better for their country, so they vote for what they know instead of for change. Either way, I am excited to see different places in Turkey throughout the coming days. Then of course I will be delighted to go back to Istanbul and to explore more of the city that I may never have the chance to experience again!