A picture says a thousand words

Here are a few last images from our visit to Istanbul. The video is a panorama of the seemingly endless city of Istanbul. The city continues on beyond the horizon, the buildings never seem to stop, except when they reach the sea.

Hoşça kalın (Goodbye)

So, its been almost two days since everyone left, and I’ve been left in the city on my own. I’ve moved from the nice, comparatively quiet Beyoglu district of the city to Sultanhament, which is easily the most touristy section of the city, and as a result significantly louder. The hostel that I’m now staying at is populated by people from all over the planet. In fact, last night I was sitting at a table sharing drinks with an Aussie, a Swede, a German, another American and even a Turk (granted he works at the hostel). As we were talking, I began to realize how incredibly diverse this city truly is. Everyone that I was talking to really had only been in a few select areas of the city, predominantly the common tourist spots, and as a result their experiences and interactions with people had all been very similar to each other, and fairly non-representative of the rest of this massive city. Having had access to the majority of the city and having been encouraged to just go explore allowed us to really see how broad and colorful this city truly is. We were able to see the city for almost everything that it is, a dynamic blend of, old and new, traditional and modern, religious and secular, chaotic and quiet, and so much more. At the end of the day, however, I have to say that I was not all that surprised by much of what I saw. As I said initially in my first blog, Istanbul, and Turkey for that matter, are incredibly similar to Israel, despite a massive population difference (The population of Istanbul is approximately double the size of the entire state of Israel). In fact, the number or Turk’s that I talked to and stated that opinion to had all told me that they had heard that comparison before. None of that is to say though, that this city is not inspiring, there were any number of times on this trip that I found myself left speechless by many of the things that I was seeing.
As the theme of our program was East meets West, I have come to understand the Turkey truly has come a long way from where it once was yet still has a long way to come, but unfortunately recently it seems as though there has been a recent shift backwards in its progress. Turkey is both modern in so many ways (technology, trends, media), but at the same time incredibly stuck in the past (toilets). As both myself, and my compatriots have discussed there are many problems with the government in Ankara that are making life and progress increasingly difficult in Turkey. For example the governments fear of extremism, its neighbors, the West, and even youtube.com (yes, youtube is banned in Turkey, for fear of messages containing dissatisfaction with the government being posted) have actually caused the government to shy away from, or become more confrontational with these problems, instead of standing up and actually attempting to rationally deal with them, which has caused even more dissatisfaction within the country. Turkey is quite capable of dealing with its problems, and becoming a truly prosperous, and contented place, but for any of that to happen both the government and the people within the country need to face its problems head on, and begin having an actual dialogue, not to mention putting its democracy to use. Turkey has a long road ahead, but it can undoubtedly get there.

A double edged sword

Walking down the streets of Turkey it’s almost impossible to miss the police presence, but the military on the other hand is another story. As a guy on the street told Alex before the rest of our group showed up, “Where the Military starts, common sense ends.” This statement can go both ways actually. Much of the youth population is not in favor of the military, most likely because Turkey’s military is based off of conscription. After men in the country turn 18 they are required to serve in the military for a 15-month shift. However, the tour of duty can be delayed if you are entering university. There are two ways out; 1) you can choose to serve for only 8 month as a private doing all the grunt work that no one else would want to do, 2) draw out your university career until your mid 30’s and at that point you are considered to old to begin serving in the military. In addition to being required to serve in the military there seems to be a consensus amongst those who have either served or are about to serve that there is an abnormal amount of inane and unnecessary beaurocratic red tape, which also leads to a greater distaste for the military. On the flip side however, in Turkey, the military tends to be viewed as the ultimate guardians of secularism. Actually over the course of Turkeys history, the military has been responsible for a number of coups when it felt that the countries government has become to Islamic. In fact, over the last several decades there has been a coup almost once every ten years (1960, 1971, 1980). So the military appears to be viewed a necessary but still unwanted here, a double-edged sword if you will (ha ha, get it? It’s a pun). However, the negative aspects clearly seem to be more personal problems with the military, as opposed to the pro’s which are much more altruistic in nature.

The discussion of having a military coup has recently been coming up more and more now in Turkey. This is because with last years elections the Islamist party (AK party) in the country won both the prime ministership and presidency as well as an overwhelming majority of the parliament, and as a result there is a general consensus amongst seculars that things are becoming to Islamic for their liking. As a result of the AK parties control of the parliament over the last year, things have been changing quite rapidly within the country, almost to rapidly for some, and not always for the better. Since the republics inception, the presence of religious insignia in the public spheres has been banned, however now as a result of the AK party, universities have the right to ignore these laws if they so choose. Also, public advertisements of women wearing bikini’s was just recently outlawed, despite one of the largest swimsuit manufacturers in Europe being based out of Turkey. Conversely, the AK party has also been one of the largest proponents of joining the EU, despite some having alleged their motives being less than altruistic.

One of the many reasons that has been previously discussed as to why the EU does not to want to allow Turkey into the union is its civil rights problems. Although on paper, there has been a great effort to fix many of the civil rights issues with in the country, the changes have been in name only. Today there still exists a great amount of disparity between actual rights of various groups within the country; the issue of covering with Islamists, and the Kurds being treated as 2nd or even sometimes 3rd class citizens.

Mosaics

Before I arrived in Istanbul I asked the question, is two better than one? I had read and heard about the dichotomies throughout Turkey, the conflicts between religious and secular, tradition and modernity, East and West. However, being here for the past two and a half weeks, living in and experiencing the city and its culture, I have realized that Istanbul specifically, and Turkey in general, is much more multifaceted and complex than I ever could have imagined. Each of these dichotomies, many of which we have discovered and discussed during our time here, have countless layers within them many of which mix and overlap. There is not just a split between the religious and the secular, between tradition and modernity, between the East and the West; the two sides of each do not simply coexist but interact and affect the other every day, if not every moment, in this hectic and ever changing city.
Stephen Kinzer calls Turkey “a rich mosaic,” and I believe this is an incredibly accurate description (Kinzer 225). A mosaic is a picture, an image made of copious pieces of broken, colored tile. And, while each piece is separate from the others, they all work together to form a completely unique and wonderful creation. Each of the layers, the numerous sides to Turkey’s many issues, are like the broken pieces of tile in the mosaics that can be found throughout the country, from the ruins of Ephasus to the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. When looked at individually these pieces are jagged and imperfect; they do not fit together flawlessly. Religion will always cause tension in a secular country and the past can never be forgotten even when a nation is trying to modernize and move forward. Yet, when looked at as a whole, the pieces blend, the edges and separations are blurred, and something entirely new is produced, in this case, a country. It is a country that is incomparable to any other in the world. It is a “land of such magnificent diversity,” a land with “religious believers, Kurdish nationalists, human-rights advocates and freethinkers of every stripe” (Kinzer 235). It is truly a mosaic.
So, although the contradictions which characterize Turkey as a nation are the sources of many of its problems and stresses, they are also the elements that make Turkey such a colorful and intricate nation, a work of art in itself. And, just as many of the mosaics throughout the country have lasted for centuries, I believe Turkey has the strength and ability to do the same. The people of Turkey are in a unique situation. They are at a place where they can either “show the world how fully tradition can coexist with freedom, Islam with democracy, unity with diversity, prosperity with equality,” or they can let these challenges lead to their downfall (Kinzer 225). Only time will tell. And so, my initial question still goes unanswered. Is diversity and multiplicity in a country better than one mainstream way of life? Turkey is still trying to figure that out for itself. But one thing is for sure, these contradictions are not going to disappear any time soon. They are the essence of Turkey and if one of the colorful pieces that make the nation was missing it would not be the country it is today.

Journey Toward Democracy

As a few of us sat and reflected on this trip, and what is waiting for us back home, I wanted to point out a few last minute thoughts about my time here in Turkey. I realized that one major problem with the advancement of Turkey is the under-developed thought and realism about democracy that the older Turk generation has. They have democracy, but they don’t know what to do with it. What I compare it to is the way I describe soccer in the United States. Why do we not compare to the rest of the world? Our nation did not consider it a norm until recent decades. In result, the coaches that you have teaching the game were not raised on the game; they picked up when their kid started some local Rec league. Continued for a few years, and decided to take it seriously. I think the U.S. will be able to compete on an international level when our generation, that grew up playing, learning, coaching, is able to take the reins and give their lifelong input. This is how Turkey is and the way they deal with democracy. The current generation of older people in this country did not grow up with democracy at its fullest. There was democracy, but there was also soccer in the U.S. in the twenties. Doesn’t help unless you have played with it a little, learned what you could, and then formed it into something that can be passed down, the right way. Once the younger generation, which is being exposed to some much freedom and democratic rule all over the world, grows up and takes charge of this nation, that is when Turkey will finally be able to take democracy and put cities like Istanbul, and put them back on the major players in the world. We, the U.S. citizens that is, see Turkey right now being very muddled, and I believe the future of Turkey can really influence the way our citizens view this part of the world, and nations that we do not understand. This generational influence can bring about a new Turkish Republic that gives all other nations a rival in every market and every business. However, Turkey does still have some growing up to do. This nation is one of attraction to new comers, but also a city of dirt and grime that many are not comfortable with. Also, most would not get the chance to see that private homes and not kept the same way that public spaces are. With the tourists seeing way more public spaces, this can influence the thought about all of Turkey very easily. Stephen Kinzer discusses this a lot in his book, Crescent and Star. He says, “Time and time again I have stepped off an ugly or dirty Turkish street, passed through a portal and entered an immaculate and lovingly kept home. The contrast is striking, often amazing. Whether because of their nomadic past in Central Asia or as a response to their centuries of life under autocratic rule, many Turks still believe that life is to be lived within the family or clan. They feel no true allegiance to national goals and aspirations.” I think this is an aspect of Turkish life that needs to be fixed. Because under this thought, Turks feel no public service is needed; which is not true if they want this nation to be the influential Republic that they want it to be. It will take every Turk, under every religion, to make Turkey the Republic that they, as well as Ataturk, have always dreamt about. Güle Güle…..

A Negative View, or a Realist View

There are many views and opinions concerning the ruling government in Turkey. Many of which are negative and brutally honest about what they think. Stephen Kinzer in the Crescent & Star states his opinion of the ruling elite and the position the government has placed the people of Turkey. In this blog I will explore his writings mostly of the chapter titled “Dreaming in Turkish” and evaluate whether I agree based upon my studies and experience thus far in Turkey.
At one point, Kinzer states, “The country would certainly take a huge leap forward if people could be grabbed there (on Istiklal Street) at random and sent to Ankara to replace the members of Parliament.” (10) This street that he mentions is one that harbors people from all walks of life from diverse cultural backgrounds. The word Istiklal means independence. The diversity on this street is something Kinzer says frightens Turkey’s ruling elite. One might say that diversity is strength. Well, to most Americans yes, but to those who determine the state of Turkey, it is not. The same diversity that makes Istiklal Street so magnificent scares others, with its barely lit cobblestone allies and multicultural spread of ethnicities. That fear is far reaching all the way to Ankara, where the Parliament sits with thoughts of insecurity. They are frightened by Turkey’s neighbors and the West; they are frightened by Islamic extremists, and the Kurds. They have been so scared they have abandoned what Turkey was destined to be, a free democracy.
I have seen examples of this and believe this is a real problem for the Turkish people. Without a voice for the people, the people who believe in a free democracy Turkey will continue to struggle and will not reach its potential.
Kinzer also talks about how he believes that Turkey’s government has little to no trust in the people of Turkey to make decisions because they are not mature enough to do so. Turkey’s and its people have somehow made it through several attacks and criticism from sheiks and leaders from religious sects to Kurds to Europeans.
No one can deny that there are certain threats to Turkey, but most other countries have the same threats. The problem now it that the government of turkey thinks that the country is under attack and that every movement made by another country is a move made to take over. When something is always on the defensive they have little time or effort to plan or be on the offensive; to thrive.
Kinzer goes on to say that these attitudes of self preservation, isolation, and seclusion have turned the country of Turkey into the enemy of many other countries and organizations.
This thought can be viewed as very true. Turkey has is viewed as its own entity of sorts. It has some Middle-East attributes, while having some Balkan attributes, while having many Western, in particular, European attributes, because it does not fit in with any of these areas completely it abandons the similarities that it has with some of them.

What is Next for Turkey?

At the start of this class, before we had ever set foot on Turkish soil we composed a short narrative that explained what each of us was expecting from our experiences in the city and in Turkey. I’d have to say very honestly that my expectations were exceeded in some areas and not met in others. Turkey, especially Istanbul, is Western and modern in ways I had not expected and yet Eastern and conservative in areas I had not expected. During my studies and observations I came to realize that Turkey, although leaning toward democracy, is not a functional democracy as of yet. The state and military institutions play a major role in the direction that the country moves. The people not only do fully participate in their government or fulfill traditional civic duties, but they seem to not want or know how to. This is one area that my expectations were not met. I had anticipated that Turkey was on its way to a governmental style that is more western. Previous to my travel here I had heard that Turkey was a candidate for EU membership. I had envisioned a much more developed democracy.
Political Turkey is not the only area that I am able to reflect on as my trip comes to an end. Religious contradictions are not what I expected. Before understanding the history; I thought that the strict secularist government was new and the people had reached it through progress. I now understand that the strict secularist is fighting to ensure freedoms that Turkish people have always enjoyed. The growth of the Islamist party in Turkey has brought new trends not rekindled old ones. I believe that this is a misconception of Turkey that many Westerners have.
Economically speaking, Turkey has blown my mind. I am a little disappointed that the trip was not as inexpensive as I’d have liked it to be, but this is good news for Turkey. As they are developing their economy and becoming a destination spot for tourists from all over the world, they are capitalizing on the new money that is coming into their country. The economy, while possibly a bit over inflated, is strong and backed by a young and dedicated work force. This strength may be Turkey’s life line to the future. A successful Turkish economy will bring competition and vibrance to the market here. A successful economy means less world isolation and less likelihood for religious extremists to have a chance at controlling Turkey’s future.
Education is also one of the keys to Turkey’s future. I have read about how the system favors individuals that are able to get into military school; furthering the bias of a strong military in society. This is an area that I had not even considered before coming to Turkey. I believe that the strong military is a major asset for Turkey as the country moves forward. The geographic position of the state calls for a strong military presence, and it also shows the world that Turkey is ready to be a part of the world’s political and military stage. If the country can shift the military’s focus as it progresses toward a democracy, and use its military education system to reach more young men and women; than the military does not have to weaken in order to accommodate national changes. Instead it can become one of the country’s biggest assets.
I am excited to return home and keep tabs on Turkey and watch its development. I don’t expect its identity to be fully western or eastern, but expect it to continue to be unique. It is a blend of both and has the opportunity to capture the attention of the world and set examples of tolerance and unity for the region. It may be many years before I have the opportunity to walk the streets of Istanbul again and soak up the Mediterranean sun, but I look forward to seeing the changes to come.

"You Look...Yes Please"

Culture, history, and cuisine are among the many things in Turkey that I have greatly enjoyed experiencing. This trip has given me a unique opportunity to learn about a nation in its infancy and I have witness firsthand the ways in which it is searching for its identity. Meeting the people of Turkey has been an amazing experience and talking with locals was one area where I wish our trip had allowed us more time. There is an element to life in Istanbul, however, that I am not sad to say goodbye to. It may be a cultural difference or just my inability to effectively communicate, but I did not enjoy the constant hassling by local salesmen. I believe that Turkey’s economy is the key to its future, and the continuation of a free and competitive market is the best way to take advantage of the tourist dollars flowing into the city, but I will not miss the over aggressive way in which the shop keepers attempt to gain business from tourists. It seems that this is one more area of contradiction in Turkish life. The people are very warm and interested in talking to travelers. I am impressed by the tolerance that they have for the constant inwasion of their city by foreigners. Further, many locals know far more English than I know Turkish, showing their desire to interact with the many cultures that come to explore the city. I wonder how the competition for tourist dollars will progress as Turkey’s identity changes. The interactions between sales people and tourist surely must change if Turkey moves toward a more westernized identity. The hassle of tourist by shop keepers, restraint and club operators, and merchants is endless. They will shout to you, walk with you, and put items in your face in order to attempt to gain your attention and potentially make a sale. A tourist must at every moment watch for incorrect change given, misquoted prices, and techniques used to increase a sale once they have gained your interest. Some of these elements exist all over the world and it is common sense that tourists are targets for scams and rip offs. Turkey is just gaining ground again as a major tourist destination, and the number of American tourist is reaching pre September 11th figures. Will this element of travel in Turkey turn off American tourists? I think an overaggressiveness has the capability to negatively affect future tourism. I suppose that is a matter of taste. I personally do not want to encounter an endless hassle when I am on a vacation. My time in Turkey was not for a vacation so I consider these experiences to be educational and an opportunity to consider differences in behavior and culture as driving forces. To be clear, it is not the boy selling guidebooks at a tourist spot or the salesmen in the bazaar that give me a bad feeling about sales techniques in the city of Istanbul. Instead, it is the sneaky ways in which some people try to get money from unsuspecting tourists. Some of our experiences as a group illustrate the ways in which the sale turns into a hassle. First, we have experienced a quick change scam cab driver that possibly received double the fare by the end of the interaction. One cab driver drove along side of us walking and hassled us until he realized we would not accept the ride and then began insulting members of the group. Does that technique really work? Second, bar owners promise free drinks as you walk by. This is another technique that I do not understand and it makes me sad if there are Americans falling for this and giving the rest of us a bad name. One day during lunchtime we had decided on a cheap doner, and were told to go upstairs to order. We did not want to sit but after the insistence of the shop owner did so anyway. We found ourselves sitting in a nice restaurant with china on the tables, and quickly decided to leave as it was obviously a ploy to get us to eat at their nicer dining area. The last example of sales techniques that I did not appreciate in the city was an experience I had while visiting the Blue Mosque. I was approached by a boy of about five years old. He gestured me to buy tissues from him. I declined and watched him, because I wondered if he was really alone. I observed him approach his father for direction. The father was smoking a cigarette and talking with friends; telling the boy to approach tourist nearby. This was disappointing and I hope that it is a rarity. These experiences do not take away from the amazing time that I have had in Turkey. I truly believe that it is a wonderful place full of great people, and on its way to a successful future. I hope, however, that the pushy techniques of hassling tourists will subside, because they do not showcase the country’s true nature.

Looking Back

Note*** 1st picture is the Galata Bell Tower Bell and the 2nd picture is the Serpent's Head from the Serpent Column in the Hippodrome.

Thinking back to our lecture on that Saturday before our departure to Turkey, Elif said something that caught my attention and invoked much thought. She said that many historians believe that if there was a world capital it would be Istanbul, Turkey. That idea has resonated with me through-out the trip. I agree in many ways, mostly because of the lands historical background, that this would be the world capital. However, because of the many issues the current world has with Turkey it would difficult for all other countries to jump on board to that idea.
Right now, Turkey is still growing in population, culture, and diversity. It’s economic and political power increases by the day. There is a new identity for the Turkish people that was mentioned in that lecture. That identity has two parts; one is that it is a victim which feels that all Westerners conspire against Turks. The second, is a peaceful identity that wishes everyone could live in harmony. Looking back on this thought and experiencing the culture, I have been able to see these two identities.
Another subject we discussed in our lecture was the concept of a secular but religious individual. Hearing that idea sounds ludicrous, but seeing it here in Istanbul made it a reality. A great number of people through-out Turkey believe themselves to be good Muslims but do not necessarily live a “by the book” Muslim lifestyle. I am not criticizing the individuals who do this because it definitely happens all over the globe with every religion, but the way in which Turkish people portray themselves in relation to spirituality is very unique.
After meeting Ceyda and getting to know her and her lifestyle I had a specific image of what Turkey was going to be like. Having been to Turkey now, I have that same image but I have many more to create a more complete, correct picture of Turkey, and more specifically Istanbul. The image that I created in my mind of Turks, was designed to encompass everything that Ceyda is and what she told me about Turkey and it’s people. Coming from a middle class family Ceyda went to public schools, received a great education and has become a doctor in her field of study. Her family has focused on living the good life with a nice apartment and a summer house. Her life has not been one of struggle for food nor has it been one of lavish ungreatfullness. She gave the idea that Turkey was this place that pretty much become a Western society with expensive Western shops everywhere and every aspect of the culture was saturated with a Western flavor. What I found was that Turkey has this great impression left by the West but also has a wonderful base and refooting in the East. Not everything has been affected by the West and some aspects of the East have become more prevalent. I have mentioned the Islamic movement before, and there are other cultural indicators that project a more Eastern flavor too. (referenced the History of Turkey, and Crescent and Star)

Fortress of Europe

Rumeli Hisarı, also known as the Fortress of Europe, was built by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452 as his first step in the conquest of Constantinople. Situated at the narrowest point on the Bosphorus, the fortress controlled a major Byzantine supply route from the Black Sea to the north, and to the Marmara Sea to the south, which led to the Mediterranean. This strategic planning gave Mehmet the Conqueror the placement he needed to cut off any and all ships going throughout the straight, which today is the busiest straight in the world. It is said that Mehmet was so eager to complete the build, he himself, a Sultan, even went down and laid bricks with his men. His hard work paid off when the entire fortress was completed in only 4 months, an architectural phenomenon for how many bricks there are and how high it is situated. The locals soon gave this stronghold the name of Boğazkesen, which means “Throat-cutter” or “Straight-cutter.” Across the Bosphorus was the Anadolu Hisarı, Fortress of Asia, built straight across the river on the Asian side by Sultan Beyazıt I in the 13th century. With this supreme lock on the flow of goods and passage through the area under the control of the Ottomans, it did not take long for Mehmet the Conqueror to successfully take the city. Which he did on May 29th, 1453. I only know this because it was celebrated while we were here, and it was the 555 anniversary of the inwasion. However, this day was not celebrated widely until the last ten years because this is considered an Islamist holiday. According to the Turkish Daily News in an article they published on May 30, 2008, “The celebrations symbolize Istanbul as an Islamist city, experts claim. Islamist segments of society try to create a myth around the year 1453 and around Fatih Sultan Mehmet, depicting the sultan and the period as primarily Islamist. They also want to construct a Fatih Sultan Mehmet, or Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror, figure almost equal to that of Atatürk,” said Aktar, a Turkish Daily News columnist. Nilüfer Narlı, an academic at Bahçeşehir University argues that,” though the conquest has significance in Turkish history in general, the idea of Istanbul becoming a Muslim city is particularly important to Islamist segments of the population.” Speaking with our Professor gave me a good idea of how Turkey views this day. She said that this is only becoming a popular day of celebration right now because of the Islamist political party which rules currently. Although it is not comparable to any holiday in the United States, we did look out the window and watch a beautiful firework display from across the river. Some mosques throughout the city proudly displayed lights celebrating advertising the celebration of this day, which stretched across from one Minaret to another. Even though this day is only celebrated in Istanbul, I’m not sure how I feel about it. On one hand I think it should be celebrated, and proudly at that. This is the day that the Ottoman heritage began in this region, which lasted until 1923. However, celebrating this day can also create a bigger rift in the religion sector of politics within the city. Some believe that the celebration of this day reinstates the Islamic religion that the Ottoman Empire founded, when actually that is not true. The Ottoman Empire accepted religions of all kinds, from all over the world. During WWII Istanbul was a refuge for hundreds of Germany’s most prominent and intellectual Jewish citizens. This city has always been open to anyone, of any race, and of any religion. Even though some may label this is an Islamist holiday, I think all people of Istanbul should respect this day as a holiday, showing that the strife between Islam and Secularism can be tolerated within the same city. This is their heritage, whether they like it or not, and it is a heritage they should be proud of.

Value Systems and the Hybrid Turk

In the Crescent Star by Stephen Kinzer he talks baout how "Turkey has changed beyond recognition", (11) this can be seen in many walks of life. There seems to yet another wave of change occuring within Turkey. There is a hybrid of people growing and spreading throughout Turkey. The value system among the young Turkish population is evolving. The young women seem to be moving more conservative and contemporary. This group of women identify themselves as Islamic and forward thinking while rooted in tradition. These women wear fashionable modern head scarves and the long full body jackets, covering everything besides their face, hands and feet. The clothing, purses, shoes and jewelry they wear are usually of high quality. These women keep to themselves or the women they happen to be out with and of course their male partners. The younger generations of women take great care in not show their feelings or facial expressions to me. Instead I get a certain feeling from them that is hard to describe. I say “me”, because I may be being treated a different way because I am a foreigner, an American. I wear what I want and express myself as I please. The American in me sticks out: my hair color, facial features, and dress. It is interesting that even though we are from very different cultures, me and many traditional Islamic women have something in common: we notice each other. It is almost as if we both, myself as a foreigner stick out to the Turkish people as much as those who dress in the traditional or modern Muslim way stick out to me. We both identify ourselves with a specific culture by the way we adorn and dress ourselves. This value of self presentation in relation to culture is something we both value and consider every day.
The young men of Turkey have been raised to follow certain traditions and seem to be very appreciative of their culture and its people. When traveling to Kadikoy I was astonished to see young men and a few women performing Black Sea folk dances. Several groups of people had formed circles by joining hands and were dancing and singing to Turkish music. It was interesting to see how the young individuals had little reservations and how enthusiastic they were in performing. They welcomed anyone in, that wanted to participate. These practices are rooted in years of tradition. These customs have not faded through time and seem to be reinvigorated with the large, young population. The values of brotherhood, family, and community can be seen in the many areas of life in Turkey.
So there are these dichotomies within Turkey, where there are these ever evolving aspects within the culture, while there are these other aspects that remain treasured and passed down through the generations. You have this contrast between the conservative, modern, religious sect and a more secular yet traditional sect. Sometimes you may have all these attributes in one individual which may cause some psychological dispute within the individual, but that seems to be a part of being Turkish.

Eat, Drink and be Merry

Italy is known for its pasta and wine, Austria for its weinerschnitzel, Germany for its beer. Food and drink are important in any culture and in Turkey its raki and meze. I am assuming that most people have never heard of this food and drink combination, as I had not before I arrived, but once you are here they are inescapable. Walking down the streets of restaurants and cafes our very first night in Istanbul I saw bottles of raki and plates of meze on almost every table and have not ceased to see them since. What are these food and beverage items that have so taken over the country you may ask? Raki is an alcohol that every Turk seems to love and every person in our group would rather never drink again. Nevertheless, it is the national drink of Turkey. This clear, anise-based alcohol is not drunk alone but is mixed with water, turning it into a cloudy white. It is not chugged but slowly sipped (and in our case is sipped with a grimace and our noses plugged). Stephen Kinzer states that “raki is the key to Turkey, not because of the drink itself but because of the circumstances in which one consumes” (Kinzer 31). Raki is consumed in an entirely different situation than alcohol is in the United States. People in Turkey do not take shots to get wasted or sit chatting at a bar drinking beer. Instead raki is enjoyed around a table of food, friends, and music. It is a drink to take you through the night, not to forget the night. We experienced one such meal on this past Saturday night. The entire four and a half hours that we were at the restaurant not a single table was turned over; the same people that were there when we arrived were there when we left, and they were all drinking raki. Raki is about socializing, about sharing in a tradition, and it is also about food.
We have been exposed to a variety of food here in Turkey, from stuffed mussels and eggplant to kebaps to yogurt and ice cream. But what we have eaten the most of is meze and this is what you will find all over Istanbul, especially while drinking raki. Meze are technically appetizers, but I am always too full after them to eat anything else. They come out on a countless number of small plates, spread across the entire stretch of the table. (Kinzer 31) They include vegetables and dips, meats and spices. I have never seen such a massive layout of food in the United States and I quickly learned there is a different method of eating it as well. In the United States, the food itself is the main focus of attending a restaurant. We order our food, eat it, pay the bill and head out. Here, the food sat in front of us for at least half of an hour before we even began to eat (we Americans were careful to take clues from the locals). While the food was definitely enjoyed by all it seemed secondary to the social interaction. Catching up with old friends, singing and dancing along to the traditional Turkish music, and taking pleasure in the atmosphere were definitely higher on the agenda than chowing down on food. It was a completely different restaurant experience than I had ever had. So, while food and drink vary from culture, so do the manner in which they are consumed and this seems to be far more significant than what goes down our throats.

Bir Bira Lutfen (One Beer Please)

Walking along the streets of Istanbul one can easily be overcome with the hordes of restauraunteers attempting to convince you that not only is their restaurant the best, but also the cheapest. Over the last week and a half I’ve discovered that you are just as likely to find a kebap for $2.50 YTL as you are to find one for $15 YTL, and anywhere in between (also depending on the place, and how daring you’re feeling you can sometimes negotiate a certain percentage off a meal, 5-10%, if you play your cards right). However, you always need something to wash down that delicious meal, and often times few things will sound better on a hot day, than a cold beer. Ephes Pilsen is the answer (or as the we’ve seen on any number of t-shirts “Raki is the answer, I don’t remember the question”). Raki, has earned its status at the nations unofficial national drink, and can be found in literally every establishment that serves liquor. For those of you who don’t know what this drink is, let me attempt to explain it. Raki’s (rah·kuh) nickname is lion’s milk (and there are those of us on the trip who would probably rather attempt to catch, and milk a lion than drink this stuff), and it’s made of with anise extract / flavoring and ethyl alcohol (about 45% / 90 proof). It’s actually very similar to Ouzo, or Sambuca, and there is a great debate around the Mediterranean as to who the actual inventor of the drink was, as all of them are so similar. The drink is best served ice cold, and mixed 50% raki, and 50% water, and although the liquor itself is clear, when its mixed with water it turns cloudy white (which led to the name lion’s milk).
So you’re probably starting to wonder why I’m babbling on about this alcoholic drink, well the Qur’an forbids the consumption of any intoxicating substance, and there for no alcohol. Ironically, it was Muslims who discovered coffee, and it was actually the Turks who brought coffee to Vienna, which from there, spread throughout the rest of the western world. As we know, Turkey is an explicitly secular country, so actually looking at the drinking habits of the country is a great way of examining the dichotomy between religiosity and secularity. Within Turkey there is a great amount of tension over religious identity and what constitutes being a “good Muslim”. This debate encapsulates many parts of Turkish life, and its effects can be seen / felt in many part of Turkish life (dress code, gender relations, entertainment, and drinking).
Additionally, alcohol is a great indicator of Turkeys economic past. Throughout much of the mid 20th century much of Turkeys industry was regulated heavily by the state through a process called import substitution economics. For decades the state government dictated who was allowed to produce what and how much, while attempting to prevent the import of foreign goods, in an attempt to boost the domestic economy. As a result, when on a night out, there are really only three affordable options for liquor; beer, raki, and more recently wine (as the Turkish wine industry is only beginning to grow). However, when looking at beer there is really only one current option, the aforementioned Ephes Pilsen (Ephes for short). Currently, the company, which brews Ephes, has cornered nearly 90% of the market, as a result of them having been the only company allowed to produce beer for such and extended period of time. Only recently have companies like Tuborg, and other major international competitors (Carlsberg, Guinness, and major U.S. brands) broken into the market, at heavily inflated prices. Similarly, “hard liquors” and mixed drinks (unless made with domestic liquor) are also often served at even more heavily inflated prices (e.g. $18 YTL for a Baily’s) for the same reasons. This is gradually shifting, but as a result of Turkey’s long history of import regulation, many foreign products are often available now, but at greatly exaggerated prices.

Back to the Future

There is a trend occurring in Turkey today, a trend toward increasing religiosity, towards fundamentalist Islam. The current ruling party is the Islamist party. More and more young women are covering themselves. Religious fervor seems to be making a comeback. But is that what it truly is? Many people view this shift toward a more religiously conservative Turkey to be a shift back to the past, to the way things used to be, but this is just not so. It is true that “as a result of geography and because of their Ottoman past,” Turkey has always has a strong Islamic population (Kinzer 24), however Turkey has forever been a secular nation. Even under the Ottoman Empire, though it was vastly Muslim, there was a large amount of religious freedom. Then with the establishment of the Turkish Republic by Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, religion was further separated from the state and any ties to Islam were forced into the private sector. Those living during the twentieth century in Turkey knew it only as a secular nation. Older generations reminisce of the times when women lay on the banks of the Bosphorus in their bikinis, instead of in scarves, pants, and overcoats as many do today. In fact, a new law has just been passed banning any advertisements with bikini-clad women within the city. Clearly a change has taken place…
So what has caused this dramatic emergence of fundamentalist Islam if it is not a return to the past? I believe it is actually a result of another departure from previous ways, a departure from obedience. Although most people learn are taught to obey from a young age, to obey their parents, their teachers, the authorities, Turks have always taken the concept of obedience to a higher level. For example, “generations of Turks grew up learning that there is no virtue more perfect than obedience. They never questioned either their leaders’ wisdom or legitimacy,” neither during the Ottoman Empire nor during the establishment of the Turkish Republic (Kinzer 225). The government called for submissive citizens and that is exactly what they were, blindly following first the sultans and than Ataturk. However, with the growing push toward democracy, Turks are realizing that obedience is not the only way and are beginning to speak out. The young population of the nation (two-thirds of which are under the age of 35) are no longer willing to “obey the way they used to” (Kinzer 226). One of these ways in which they are not returning to, but revolting against the past is by asserting their rights to religious freedom. While in the United States we consider this a fundamental right, the Turkish government considers these calls for religious freedom to be “subversive attacks on the secular order” (Kinzer 12). And, in order to deal with this issue, the government has turned to the repression of these ideas, in turn leading only to stronger opposition, creating a vicious cycle. The more and more the government tries to make the people obey, they more the people refuse to do so, driving more and more people to become not just religious, but increasingly conservative and fundamental in their beliefs and practices.
Nevertheless, it must be realized that it is only a portion of the population that is turning so dramatically toward religion. Instead, most Turks want three things, “a society that is free, democratic, and secular” (Kinzer 16). Yet, it is these first two goals that is challenging the third; increasing freedom and democracy has led to an increasing threat toward secularism in Turkey. A tension between the Islamists and the secularists is rising, especially with the growing power of the Islamist party. Turkey is going to have to find a way, other than its past method of relying on obedience of its citizens, to handle this issue if it wants to continue its climb up to world ladder. The conflict between Islam and democracy is one that no country so far has been able to figure out, but Turkey is a nation full of young, educated, and motivated people, it is a state striving to establish its place in the modern world, and “if any country is going to prove that Islam can coexist with modernity and democracy, it will almost certainly be Turkey” (Kinzer 24).

Caramel...caramel.........CARAMEL

One morning, while everyone else was still sleeping, Stephanie snuck out to indulge in an American delight. She walked the empty streets up to Istiklal, a shopping and dining district near our hotel, and walked to get her fresh cup of coffee. Where would she go, but of course, Starbucks. While she stood in line, there was a man in front of her ordering that was obviously from the U.S., and did not look like the normal tourist. As he repeated the word caramel a few times, slower and then louder each time, the cashier spoke back in Turkish, both not understanding each other. The situation finally ended when the little cashier smiled and said, “O, Car-a-mel…” This situation is one that each of us have had to deal with while here in Turkey, from the hotel clerks, to the servers and kebab slicers, all the way to the taxi drivers, who take this lost in translation to their advantage by overcharging you. One great thing I have come to learn is that even trying the most basic conversational Turkish terms are very much appreciated by those that can figure out what we are trying to say, and this usually is flowed up with a big grin and laugh, then the words Çok güzel , which means very good. This is one way that the Turkish people and their community show the acceptance of, not annoyance, the millions of tourists that enter their city every year. Another event that made me really enjoy the Turkish people, happened when the five of us were walking from the spice bazaar to our hotel. It was a solid 25 minute walk, with the last ten minutes being completely uphill. Somewhere in our journey, we got a little lost and really didn’t know our right from left. Next thing we know, every corner we turn, an old Turkish man would point up the hill. Not knowing what he was saying, and without us even asking, apparently each one knew where we were heading and wanted to help us find our way. We now know that they were just pointing to the hotel district that we were staying in, not so much our specific hotel. This really gave me a sense of character about these people. The interest and friendliness is very high, the service industry will go to any length to make your dinner that much more enjoyable. Even the men in the bazaar that shout out their selling points at us that they had been practicing and they knew exactly what needed to be said to make us laugh and smile, and ultimately go in and look around.
This type of acceptance is shown all over the city. Not just to tourists, but even between Turks. A great place to observe Turks and how friendly they are is in the above mentioned place, Istiklal. This Boulevard in the Taksim district has everything and anything turkey could ever offer, and is a great place to start to understand and observe Turkish culture. Stephen Kinzer spoke about Istiklal in his book, Crescent and Star, he said, “Losing myself in Istiklal’s parade of faces and outfits for a few minutes, overhearing snippets of conversation and absorbing the energy that crackles along its mile and a half, is always enough to renew my confidence in Turkey’s future.“ I feel like this accurately represents every night of the week on Istiklal. With the friendliness of this city/nation making an impression on me that definitely makes me want to come back, I can only hope that others realize this country is a jewel and everyone needs to experience a day on the Bosporus.

Learning the Culture

The group has finally had the full Turkish experience. This past Saturday evening we were treated to a traditional Turkish dinner, dancing, and live Turkish music. I had no idea what I was in for; it was the experience of the trip. For me, it explains a lot about Turkish culture. In the United States we pride ourselves on being the “melting pot”. This is our American way to describe our cultural as mixed, tolerant, and diverse. There are many benefits to our diversity. In any American city you can experience cuisine from all over the world, practice any religion, and find any modern convince. Diversity defines the United States that exists today, and personally, I would not trade it for anything, but after Saturday I am left to wonder what Americans have left behind. As the diversity in the US has increased, culture and tradition has decreased. Traditions may still exist in the family or at holidays and religious celebrations, but would we ever see a celebration of culture just because it is Saturday night? Although I was not able to understand what the songs were about, each and every Turk in the room did. They were not only familiar with the songs, but sang them word for word! First there was clapping, then singing a little louder, and finally the room erupted in loud animated singing and dancing. I was truly amazed by the show. How many years has this tradition gone on? I am not sure of the answer to this question. I attempted some research on Turkish celebration and found two websites that looked promising. I had to laugh when I found them inaccessible due to Turkish law. Maybe the Turks do not wish to share their celebration secrets! Reflecting on the Turkish Saturday night, I can’t help but think that there answers to be found in the way the Turks come together. I was not only impressed that everyone knew the songs and sang them, but young and old were enjoying the chaos. In the United States there would not be the tolerance among older people of the noise or spectacle. They would probably remove themselves from it before it reached that level. Not only do the Turkish people enjoy the music together, but the food on each table was the same. This is also not something that you would find in the United States. Because of the conveniences of American life, Americans have the luxury of being very picky. It is also worth mentioning that even if the menu were to be the same for all; what would it consist of? We do not have traditional American food to the same degree that the Turkish people do. The traditional Turkish drink, Raki, was also served to table after table of drinkers, save one American in the corner, me. I do not have the palette for this one, although, I took great pleasure in watching its effects on the crowd. One young Turkish guy in particular, turned the same shade any young American does after too much drinking and too much dancing! I had sympathy pains for him and his morning, as his friends helped him down the stairs and off to bed. This Turkish party was something to experience and I could not believe that it happens with such frequency! In every area of town and every Friday and Saturday night you can hear the same style of music along with the singing and clapping. It seems to be as a part of the culture as cucumber! This I will save for another blog. This experience left me feeling a little sorry for my own culture. I think we may be missing out on some serious fun. Do we have anything similar; where we all know the words and dance moves? I am at a loss. I can only think of Soldier Boy, the Macarena, and Hokie Pokie…….poor Americans.

Istiklal or devlet

In order for Turkey to move toward a Western political identity it must leave the concept of devlet behind. The word itself means “state”, but the concept is supposed to be understood by all Turks to mean that the political elite are superior in their knowledge of what is best for the country. Most importantly this notion of national guidance is known for its intolerance of freethinking Turkish citizens. The focal point of Turkish unity organized under devlet would be threatened if freethinking were to be legal in the country. There are numerous ways in which this ideal disables freethinking Turkish people. First, it creates a false cohesion and national identity among the citizens. Historically, the people of Turkey have not made political decisions and seen their will carried out by leaders; therefore the natural instinct is to believe that the state is acting in their best interest and that it must know better than they. Further, open criticism of military and state is not legal so there must be an element of fear among the people to openly discuss and criticize the political decisions. This would lead to an environment where political decisions are accepted and followed by the population of Turkish citizens whether or not they agreed with the state.
At first I thought that the countless display of the Turkish flag was significant to the progress of Turkey. That the country had entered a period where national identity and pride is defining in modern society. In his book, Crescent and Star, Stephen Kinzer speaks to the lack of a true Turkish identity. He explains that the reason that Turkish people are not more assertive in political decisions and state affairs is embedded in their history. For centuries they have believed that the individual is less important than the collective. The collective is defined by the family or the clan. This is important because in a democratic society there must be elements of civic duty. There is seemingly no sense of civic duty in Turkey. They have learned to serve their families not their communities. After learning more about the nature of the Turkish citizen and their political involvement I found myself wanting to know more about the nature of the government.
Although political sentiment is developed over time the military element of modern Turkish government is the main barrier to complete democracy. The country’s governmental structure is democratic in the sense that it is a Parliamentary system. The Parliament lacks power to truly govern because the implementation of law is in the hands of the military. The Constitution provides limitation on the powers of Parliament and in the name of the law extends power to the military, furthering the inability of Parliament to balance the structure of government power. The purpose of the National Security Council, established in 1961, is said to exist to protect law and order, but it is a governmental organization that has ultimate power and its members are only held accountable to one another. It is in the best interest of Turkey to rid its system of this imbalance within. The consequences may be too dear if it does not change. The National Security Council and the military are the reason that freedom of speech and journalism is limited in Turkey. They are the cause of many human rights violations, and ultimately the reason that Turkey is not truly democratic. There are two major consequences to this system. First, the military institution only continues to get stronger. The best schools are military in nature and their graduates often are more educated and have more opportunity in working for the government. This only furthers the cycle of military rule. Second, the extreme military influence will keep Turkey from being a viable candidate for European Union entry. The county would need to give up its “half democracy” and move forward toward more western ideals. This would mean turning away from devlet and toward istiklal. This word means independence, but one trip down Istanbul’s famous istiklal Avenue, and you can understand what implications the word could have in government. Freedom, choice, variety, all are words that I would use to describe Turkey without the concept of devlet.

The Western Shift

A chair. Who would imagine that a chair could symbolize more than simply a place to rest? For most, a chair is an object to sit upon, a common piece of furniture found in almost every building, if not every room. However, prior to the mid-1800s in the Ottoman Empire, chairs, let alone couches or tables, were scarce, even nonexistent. Even the elaborately tiled rooms of Topkapi Palace, the palace of the sultan, lacked any such furniture; it simply was not a part of the Ottoman culture. So, when the construction of the new palace, Dolmabahce Palace, in the 1840s and 1850s, included not only tables and chairs but also European style decorations and architecture a statement was clearly being made. This was not just a change in style, but a proposed change in lifestyle. It was the rejection of the past Ottoman history, the previous Ottoman way of life, in order to adapt the ways of the newly powerful European nations. It was the sign of the fall of an empire and the rise of the West and the Ottoman acceptance and resistance of that shift.
This struggle between wishing to be part of and accepted by Europe and the Western world and maintaining its own individual Turkish identity and Ottoman history has been an almost constant characteristic of Turkey and continues even today. Though the drastic contrasts between the two palaces do illustrate this point quite plainly, this issue encompasses a far larger scope than just furniture and decorations. After the dismantling of the Ottoman Empire and upon the creation of the Turkish Republic in the 1920s, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk adamantly pressed the ideas of westernization and modernization on the new nation. The western ideas forced on the people were quickly embraced, from the alphabet to style of dress to houses that seemed to be “little museums designed to demonstrate to a hypothetical visitor that the householders were westernized” (Pamuk 2004: 10). Nevertheless, Turkish writer Orhan Pamuk claims that “as great the desire to westernize and modernize may have been, the more desperate wish was probably to be rid of all the bitter memories of the fallen empire” (Pamuk 2004: 29).
As the forth largest city in the world, Istanbul, Turkey is a completely modern and advanced city. Yet, its heritage and its history have never been forgotten. Turks still have their own unique culture, distinguishing them from any other westernized or European country. They are very proud of their country and their Ottoman past, symbols of which can be seen throughout the city, whether at the mosques, the bazaars, or just walking along the waterways. The walls of their fortresses still stand, their palaces some of the most visited sites in Turkey, all among the consumerism and capitalism of the western world. It seems more than a meeting of two cultures though, and more like a meeting of two separate times.
This drive to be westernized has also created some political conflicts for Turkey. In its effort to once again prove that it is a nation as great and as worthy as those in Europe, Turkey has applied to become a member of the European Union. If accepted, Turkey would be the second largest member of the EU, giving it great political sway in an organization that is not quite sure that they believe Turkey is actually European. In fact, the people of Turkey are not even sure if they want to be European; 60% of Turkish citizens claim that they do not want to be part of the European Union. This division caused by European Union demonstrates yet again Turkey’s desire to be part of the West while at the same time it holds on with pride to its individuality and its history.

So it’s day 9 and I’m truly starting to get my bearings in this massive city (or at least the tiny corner of it that we’ve seen so far). My Turkish is still pretty pathetic, for some reason I’m still having problems asking people what their name is (Adınız ne?), and I always seem to get this blank stare of, “what the hell are you talking about?” Oh well …… I’m trying, right? Yesterday we went to Sabanci University, in “Istanbul”, in reality the campus actually petitioned the city to change its borders so that the university would still be considered part of the city, despite how far out it is. While there, we met a few students, as well as attended a couple of lectures so that we could get a feel of what life is like for university students in Turkey. Sabanci is a private liberal arts school, that is ranked as one of the best in the country, and all of its classes are taught in English (like many other campuses around the country). If you’re wondering Alex found out for us, yes, the report seems to show that students tend to take their notes in English. Student life here seems to be almost identical to that of student life in the states, erratic sleep schedules, cramming for tests, partying, and all. In fact the only real difference seemed to be that the dorms there had cleaning services provided for the students. One thing I didn’t get a chance to ask about was the issue of the head scarf ban in universities within the country. However, I’m not sure if the university being a private one, is still affected by the ban. As part of Turkeys policy of secularization, religious iconography is banned in the public sphere. That is not to say that women are not allowed to cover anywhere in public but that to attend a public school, or serve in public office they cannot cover. Actually, walking down the street, it seems as though you are almost as likely to see as many covered women as not (and that includes all types of covering hijab / niqab / abaya). Additionally, men are not allowed to wear traditional beard, or other religious head wear. Currently the issue of the ban is not only limited to Turkey, but a number of other nations around the world as well, namely France. The issue has recently received quite a bit of international notoriety with the uproar caused by the public covering of both, the wives of the President and Prime Minister of Turkey, as well as the Academy Award nominated movie Persepolis. Islamist women in Turkey have gone to the lengths of wearing wigs over their hijab’s so that it is “hidden” and thus allowing them to attend classes in university. However, this act of covering up the scarf actually tends to make the problem even more pronunciated, as opposed to quelling the confrontation between secularists and Islamists. Secularists fear that if they allow women to be covered in places like class, it will put both direct and indirect pressure on women to cover when they don’t necessarily want to. Conversely, Islamists point to the Qur’an which states that women are supposed to dress modestly, which is interpreted as covering. Therefore there really is no clear way around incredibly sensitive and delicate issue.
Also, while we were at Sabanci, we received a special lecture on the history of the Turkish economy as well as Turkeys relation with the EU, and its possible ascension to the union. Official talks with the EU began in Oct. of 2005, however unofficial talks have taken place since the 80’s. The issue of joining the EU also weighs quite heavily on the minds of Turks. Although the Turkish government has been quite aggressively pursuing the issue the EU currently seems to be reluctant to grant membership for a number of reasons. Namely, if Turkey joins, it would become the 2nd largest country in the EU, and because the EU’s power structure is based on population it would drastically change the way things ran. Additionally, because Turkey is relatively far behind economically too many other countries in the union, it greatly impact the economies of other EU countries. Human rights violations, specifically in relation to the Kurdish population in the South Eastern regions of the country also add to the reluctance of the EU to allow Turkey to join. The other major argument being posited, is that of Turkey being a clear Muslim majority country, while the EU is currently all Christian. As a result of the delays in the EU accepting Turkey, Turks are beginning to feel “strung along” and becoming less in favor of joining the EU, despite the numerous advantages being an EU country would provide.