The Western Shift

A chair. Who would imagine that a chair could symbolize more than simply a place to rest? For most, a chair is an object to sit upon, a common piece of furniture found in almost every building, if not every room. However, prior to the mid-1800s in the Ottoman Empire, chairs, let alone couches or tables, were scarce, even nonexistent. Even the elaborately tiled rooms of Topkapi Palace, the palace of the sultan, lacked any such furniture; it simply was not a part of the Ottoman culture. So, when the construction of the new palace, Dolmabahce Palace, in the 1840s and 1850s, included not only tables and chairs but also European style decorations and architecture a statement was clearly being made. This was not just a change in style, but a proposed change in lifestyle. It was the rejection of the past Ottoman history, the previous Ottoman way of life, in order to adapt the ways of the newly powerful European nations. It was the sign of the fall of an empire and the rise of the West and the Ottoman acceptance and resistance of that shift.
This struggle between wishing to be part of and accepted by Europe and the Western world and maintaining its own individual Turkish identity and Ottoman history has been an almost constant characteristic of Turkey and continues even today. Though the drastic contrasts between the two palaces do illustrate this point quite plainly, this issue encompasses a far larger scope than just furniture and decorations. After the dismantling of the Ottoman Empire and upon the creation of the Turkish Republic in the 1920s, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk adamantly pressed the ideas of westernization and modernization on the new nation. The western ideas forced on the people were quickly embraced, from the alphabet to style of dress to houses that seemed to be “little museums designed to demonstrate to a hypothetical visitor that the householders were westernized” (Pamuk 2004: 10). Nevertheless, Turkish writer Orhan Pamuk claims that “as great the desire to westernize and modernize may have been, the more desperate wish was probably to be rid of all the bitter memories of the fallen empire” (Pamuk 2004: 29).
As the forth largest city in the world, Istanbul, Turkey is a completely modern and advanced city. Yet, its heritage and its history have never been forgotten. Turks still have their own unique culture, distinguishing them from any other westernized or European country. They are very proud of their country and their Ottoman past, symbols of which can be seen throughout the city, whether at the mosques, the bazaars, or just walking along the waterways. The walls of their fortresses still stand, their palaces some of the most visited sites in Turkey, all among the consumerism and capitalism of the western world. It seems more than a meeting of two cultures though, and more like a meeting of two separate times.
This drive to be westernized has also created some political conflicts for Turkey. In its effort to once again prove that it is a nation as great and as worthy as those in Europe, Turkey has applied to become a member of the European Union. If accepted, Turkey would be the second largest member of the EU, giving it great political sway in an organization that is not quite sure that they believe Turkey is actually European. In fact, the people of Turkey are not even sure if they want to be European; 60% of Turkish citizens claim that they do not want to be part of the European Union. This division caused by European Union demonstrates yet again Turkey’s desire to be part of the West while at the same time it holds on with pride to its individuality and its history.

So it’s day 9 and I’m truly starting to get my bearings in this massive city (or at least the tiny corner of it that we’ve seen so far). My Turkish is still pretty pathetic, for some reason I’m still having problems asking people what their name is (Adınız ne?), and I always seem to get this blank stare of, “what the hell are you talking about?” Oh well …… I’m trying, right? Yesterday we went to Sabanci University, in “Istanbul”, in reality the campus actually petitioned the city to change its borders so that the university would still be considered part of the city, despite how far out it is. While there, we met a few students, as well as attended a couple of lectures so that we could get a feel of what life is like for university students in Turkey. Sabanci is a private liberal arts school, that is ranked as one of the best in the country, and all of its classes are taught in English (like many other campuses around the country). If you’re wondering Alex found out for us, yes, the report seems to show that students tend to take their notes in English. Student life here seems to be almost identical to that of student life in the states, erratic sleep schedules, cramming for tests, partying, and all. In fact the only real difference seemed to be that the dorms there had cleaning services provided for the students. One thing I didn’t get a chance to ask about was the issue of the head scarf ban in universities within the country. However, I’m not sure if the university being a private one, is still affected by the ban. As part of Turkeys policy of secularization, religious iconography is banned in the public sphere. That is not to say that women are not allowed to cover anywhere in public but that to attend a public school, or serve in public office they cannot cover. Actually, walking down the street, it seems as though you are almost as likely to see as many covered women as not (and that includes all types of covering hijab / niqab / abaya). Additionally, men are not allowed to wear traditional beard, or other religious head wear. Currently the issue of the ban is not only limited to Turkey, but a number of other nations around the world as well, namely France. The issue has recently received quite a bit of international notoriety with the uproar caused by the public covering of both, the wives of the President and Prime Minister of Turkey, as well as the Academy Award nominated movie Persepolis. Islamist women in Turkey have gone to the lengths of wearing wigs over their hijab’s so that it is “hidden” and thus allowing them to attend classes in university. However, this act of covering up the scarf actually tends to make the problem even more pronunciated, as opposed to quelling the confrontation between secularists and Islamists. Secularists fear that if they allow women to be covered in places like class, it will put both direct and indirect pressure on women to cover when they don’t necessarily want to. Conversely, Islamists point to the Qur’an which states that women are supposed to dress modestly, which is interpreted as covering. Therefore there really is no clear way around incredibly sensitive and delicate issue.
Also, while we were at Sabanci, we received a special lecture on the history of the Turkish economy as well as Turkeys relation with the EU, and its possible ascension to the union. Official talks with the EU began in Oct. of 2005, however unofficial talks have taken place since the 80’s. The issue of joining the EU also weighs quite heavily on the minds of Turks. Although the Turkish government has been quite aggressively pursuing the issue the EU currently seems to be reluctant to grant membership for a number of reasons. Namely, if Turkey joins, it would become the 2nd largest country in the EU, and because the EU’s power structure is based on population it would drastically change the way things ran. Additionally, because Turkey is relatively far behind economically too many other countries in the union, it greatly impact the economies of other EU countries. Human rights violations, specifically in relation to the Kurdish population in the South Eastern regions of the country also add to the reluctance of the EU to allow Turkey to join. The other major argument being posited, is that of Turkey being a clear Muslim majority country, while the EU is currently all Christian. As a result of the delays in the EU accepting Turkey, Turks are beginning to feel “strung along” and becoming less in favor of joining the EU, despite the numerous advantages being an EU country would provide.

EU...? No thanks, Welcome To Asia

“Can you imagine that the least European country would become the most powerful country in Europe.” This was a statement by Francois Bayrou, the 4th president of the Union for French Democracy. I heard this statement from a professor during a lecture we attended at Sanbaci University, one of the top universities in Turkey. The lecture was on the history of the Turkish Economy and its accession into the EU. I don’t think a lot of people realize the severity of the EU allowing Turkey to enter. If it were to enter the Union, Turkey would be the 2nd largest country within the EU, only to fall behind Germany (which has 2.1 million Turks living there). Turkey has been in discussion with the EU and its membership since 1987, that’s over twenty years that Turkey has been changing its laws and regulations, trying to fit into this western mold to become the 28th member. From what I’ve read and heard while in Turkey, this nation has almost bent itself over backwards trying to conform to what they believe is the future of Turkey. With the population decreasing in the EU dramatically and Turkey’s population on the rise, by 2020 Turkey would hold more seats in Parliament than Germany, giving Turkey more power than I believe Europe is ready for. That would make the deciding force a Muslim nation, which does not sound good in the ears of the EU “Christian Club.” Another problem is the fact that Turkey is connected to the Middle East. Some believe that if Turkey joined the EU, it may help settle some of the ongoing tensions in the region. While others believe that allowing a nation so close to the Middle East in, would only spill the problem onto nations, and into the hands of the EU. With many other problems documented by the EU, and what seems like many more years before any progress is made, I sense an almost loss of interest by most Turkish people. The percentage of Turks that oppose the decision of joining the EU is currently at 60%, which goes to show that the majority would agree that it is not in the best interest of THEIR nation.
I agree….I feel like with everything Turkey has had to put itself through, and to finally be allowed to apply for accession as of 2005, 18 years of conformity is enough. The Turkish people don’t want to use the Euro, they don’t want the status of Turkey to be known as a European nation, and they don’t want to lose that sense of mystery that many, like me, wonder about. Turkey’s identity is one that can be found not by entering the EU, but by embracing the fact that they are both Asian and European. They are a unique blend of history and culture that embrace their roots, while moving forward towards the modern nation, and world power, that they are meant to be.
The drive to Sabanci University started by crossing the Bosphorus Bridge, leaving the European side and heading east to the edge of the city. The best part was once you got the end of the bridge, entering the Asian side. There was a sign that read, “Welcome to Asia,” giving me the impression that now I really was out of my comfort zone. I was surprised to find that Sabanci University was almost more advanced technologically than mine is back in Orlando. The class setting is one that rivals most large universities: power point projector, PC, mobile mic for the professor, and stadium seating. Only 3,000 students attend the university, and it is located about an hour outside of main Istanbul, even though it is still considered in the city. Tuition is paid by the family, and there are no student loans here; however 30% of students receive a full financial aid package, covering all costs. All classes are taught in English, which proposed the question to me…Do Turkish students take notes in English or Turkish? English I found out. With the University only being nine years old, it has plenty of time and available space to bloom and blossom into a large university. I found out that Turkish students, no matter how different culturally, are like every college student in the United States. They wait to cram for an exam until the last minute, they look like they fell out of bed and stumbled to class, there is always someone texting, they act like they are taking notes on their computer in class when they are actually checking facebook, and they hate their cafeteria food…..

Past and Present...

Circumcision....now that I have your attention, here are a few things i have discovered about the way life is lived in Turkey. In Turkish culture, this is a day of celebration and right of passage in a boys life, usually taking place during the summer. Traditionally, this takes place between the ages of 6-9. The family will dress the little boy up in quite an amazing outfit, complete with scepter and hat, and take him to the most important places, like their local mosque, to meet with religious leaders. After the completion of the surgery, the best rests in a room while his family sits outside eating and drinking. Whenever he is ready and recuperated, he comes out to cheers and hugs while receiving many many gifts. They have done this same tradition for many centuries, and the rich even had circumcision rooms in the elaborate houses used solely for this. Now the problem with today's culture is that they still follow this practice except for the fact they usually have their little snip snip at birth. However, at the age when they traditionally would have it done, they still put on the outfit, go to the mosque, and still have the parties in celebration. That right there is a perfect example of how Turkey is stuck in the past, but still moving forward. They still follow traditions, like this one, but take the tradition and give it a curve ball to make it fit in today's world. This is one of many example's that i have seen while studying here. Another swing into modernity is with the public rest room's. In the airport, the bathroom was updated in some of the stalls, but not all. Some had regular toilets, but some still use the old method of a hole in the ground, set in a rectangular box that drops about 1/2 and inch down, and is slanted towards the whole, with a bucket and a water spicket right next to it, so when you were finished you could rinse it down. In such an updated place like an airport, having pedestrian traffic from all over the world, one would think that normal toilets are a must. However, with the Turkish government trying to please everyone, they updated some stalls and left some traditional so that they please both sides of the table. Very interesting…..
Next I would like to give everyone a bit of a history lesson (this is my, Did You Know, of the week). Turkey, a nation of a longer history than anywhere in the world, has given the world more than anyone has ever thought about really. Did you know that coffee was invented in Turkey…? When the Ottomans failed to take Vienna during a war, they decided to leave and not take any of their belongings. The Austrians then found their possessions, among them being coffee beans. They then found a written description of how to grind and make coffee. They also invented all wind and brass instruments. The Ottoman army used to have a marching band that would enter the war ahead of the army, in hopes their enemy would hear it and run away because of fear. Then they were heard and integrated into western Europe, going to the likes of Beethoven, Bach, and Mozart. Also….there is strong evidence to suggest that Native Americans were actually descendants of the Turks. This being that they have found history suggesting they crosses the Bearing Sea in Russia/Alaska and worked their way down through Canada to all of the what is today the U.S. You can find this influence actually in Native American history by looking at the designs and types of rugs made. All the designs, and actual words for what the rug is called is the same is both languages, giving more evidence to suggest that the Turk’s had major influencing even in the U.S. After hearing, and even seeing the history within this nation, I have come to consider this area and region as a possible more important cradle of civilization than the actual on that lies East of this beautiful nation.

Perception and Influence

Western society is perceived by Turks in many ways. It seems as though the Turkish people like Western culture especially European and American clothing styles. So, what Turkish people see in magazines, and in other media is how they tend to see Westerners. I have seen several Burger Kings, McDonalds, and Starbucks which says they like certain Western foods and I also see many brands of clothing that are European or American like; Nike, Puma, Coach, Chanel, etc. These influences tend to penetrate the more affluent and/ or younger generations. With the huge under 30 years of age population and advances in technology, consumption of media is at an all time high. This high consumption equals high penetration equaling a greater acceptance of western culture. The 2007 graph titled Today Population Pyramid on the http://www.irantour.org/turkey/populationturkey.html website shows the high numbers of young people in Turkey.
There is an Islamic movement towards re-establishing traditional dress and culture in Turkey. It is everywhere and is continually growing in momentum. As this movement becomes more prevalent there may be a greater rejection towards European and American ideals and lifestyles and the democratic society.
Since Ataturk, Turkey has been a country of acceptance towards all religious sects. It is true that you can find a church, mosque and synagogue all on the same city block. It is very interesting how these various religions have been able to live peacefully for so long. I think the acceptance stems from the separation of the church and state at the rise of the new nation Turkey under Ataturk. He received resistance from many conservative influencers but was un-swayed. By separating these two cultural indicators, the country of Turkey has been able to flourish without prejudice to certain groups, providing less friction between the peoples of Turkey, thus providing a more accepting culture and society.
Turkey has provided many significant contributions to the world, including, yogurt, coffee, Turkish rugs, the tulips to Holland, the Turkish bath, and many more. These contributions pale in comparison to the extensive diverse history that the lands of Turkey provide in the history of the humankind. This history provides generations of people windows into the past that span thousands of years and include some of the most important human developments and events. Some of the developments would include, “The world's first known settlement, a Neolithic city at Çatalhöyük, dates back to 6.500 B.C. Being the heir to many centuries of cultures makes Turkey a paradise of information and cultural wealth. Hittites, Phrygians, Urartians, Lycians Ionians, Lydians, Persians, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans have all made important contributions to the history of the area. Ancient sites and ruins scattered throughout the country give sufficient proof of each civilization's unique distinction.” (mymerhaba.com) There are many interesting museums, castles, palaces, mosques, churches, and historic hammams, many of which are unique to Turkey. These historic people, structures and everyday living attributes have been great influences on the rest of world. Many aspects of the Turkish history and culture can be seen in Europe, Asia and even in America.

The People

In this blog I will primarily be focusing on the people of Turkey. It is so interesting to be a half a world apart from a culture and have many differences yet still have so many similarities and be able to communicate and have fun in a country where you barely know the language. It seems as though the Turkish people rely heavily on non-verbal communication. They use hand gestures to welcome, offer and show approval and disapproval. A smile from one stranger to stranger seems to alleviate some discomfort and unfamiliarity between the two people. After two people have moved out of the stranger relationship and it is time to depart from one another kissing both cheeks of the other person seems customary. Touching in general seems to be more acceptable. Men can hug, kiss cheeks, and touch without the thought of anything more than friendship between them.
I almost always feel welcome where ever I go. People of all areas of life, sales people, people on the street, people on public transportation, and people in our hotel seem to realize I am a foreigner but usually accept me. I have seen some people, usually women, stare at me or look at me in a way that makes me feel uncomfortable. The look seems to stem from my different ethnicity or dress, or maybe from a feeling of intrusion, as if I have intruded rudely into their country. I must explore other possibilities.
The relationship between individuals is unique and significant. Most of time these relationships can be seen in the United States too but some of them you can’t. You can see how much parents care for their children, how much love is between a couple, and how there is fellowship between men. I also see unique sets of individuals that similar interests or lifestyles. For instance, a group of traditional Muslim women in traditional dress versus a group of more secular, modern dressed women, both groups gravitated to those individuals like themselves. All of these relationships can be seen in America but in different ways. The fellowship here in Turkey is expressed in different ways. As mentioned above, when speaking of non-verbal communication, the men in Turkey do tend to touch and be more boisterous in their affection for one another than in America. Women in America also tend to gather in groups in relation to their lifestyles or interest.
Leisure time and the food drink, and activity that go with that leisure time are very important to Turkish people. The meals here are an important time to converse with friends and family and that time is spans a long period in which games like backgammon and multiple courses are enjoyed. Turkish coffee and tea is something the Turkish people relish and take pride in.
After visiting and experiencing the culture it is more apparent how alike our cultures are and why it is so easy for us to communicate.

Turkey and her people have struggled to find a balance between Eastern Conservatism and Western Capitalism in modern life. The identity of the nation will determine how influential the country can become among competing world economies. Turkey’s economy has as much variety as the land and the people. Since the decline of the Ottoman Empire the country its people and its economy have struggled for world identity and survival. The economy of Turkey today is booming, and contributing factors include average age of the workforce, agriculture, and tourism. Turkey uses the strength of its economy as one of its primary marketing tools in becoming respected on the world stage. The economy in Turkey has had a turbulent past. Following WWI it was severely underdeveloped and suffered from poor-quality livestock and the factories that produced products such as sugar and flour were under foreign control. Wheat, Turkey’s primary crop was not enough to sustain the country’s demand. Further, the war had claimed the lives of many of the nation’s peasants causing a drastic drop in population. Once stabilized, the economy averaged about six percent growth per year, and following 1950 only experienced economic problems about once a decade. The worst fall came in the 1970’s when Turkey was made to follow the conditions set by the International Monetary Fund. These reforms devalued the Turkish lira and lessened the demand for Turkish exports. The guidelines of the IMF enabled Turkey to again become a credible borrower and returned its external debt accounts to good standing, but took a toll the Turkish population by drastically slowing the economic growth. Even within the last ten years the economy of Turkey has had drastic rise and fall. In 1993 the Lira suffered a 76 percent fall leaving it 41,000 TL to 1 USD. As recently as 2001, Turkey enacted laws to strengthen the private sector and increase the economic stability and weaken state run monopolies on industries such as telecommunications and banking.
These reforms have led Turkey to the strong economy it has today. It is one of the world’s few countries that is self-sufficient in food and is a major exporter of agricultural goods to the world. The Turkish government markets this strength to the world and attempts to attract international investors to Turkey by highlighting its young workforce, geographical location, and cumulative GDP increase of 122 percent in the last four years. As a candidate for membership to the EU, Turkey is proud to boast that she surpasses most European economies, as 17th in the world, and has the 4th largest workforce in comparison to 27 European countries with almost 25 million people in 2006.
The reputation of Turkey on the international stage is a huge contributor of its economic success. If Turkey is viewed as a country with western values among western states, she will attract more investors and tourists. Turkey must also maintain the reputation of a protector of eastern culture and values among eastern states in order to maintain positive relationships within the region. Tourism, another of Turkey’s primary industries, is a good example of how reputation affects economy. The cultural Attaché for Turkey in the US reported in 2005 that the city of Istanbul has hosted more than 60,000 conference delegates and millions of leisure travelers. The Turkish government released statistics the same year stating that Turkey has seen a rise in American tourism because of the familiarity of Europe and the intrigue of Asia. They report that the rise is nearly 48 percent, or 400,000 Americans. This figure is nearly the pre-September 11th figures. Istanbul has been named the European Capital of Culture and will celebrate this title in 2010, furthering the reputation of a land that represents all.
Considering the economic past and the country’s struggle for stability, it is no wonder that Turkish people desire to remain secular and western in the way that they conduct their political and commercial way of life. The country is truly unique in its ability to juggle the history, traditionalism, and conservatism with modern capitalism, secular governing, and liberalism.

Relaxing...

This past weekend we experienced a completely different side of Turkey than we previously had. We traveled by bus and plane, leaving the hectic city of Istanbul, arriving in Izmir and proceeding on to the picturesque towns of Ephasus and Kusadasi. After a visit to the magnificent ruins of Ephasus and the house of the Virgin Mary on the first day, we took part in a very Turkish activity that we seemed to have neglected since our arrival in the country, leisure. For one precious day we had nothing to do but sail the sea, relax by the pool, and eat great Turkish food. And yet, this wasn’t just a tourist activity, it was Turkey. It was the Turkey that you don’t hear about on the news or in textbooks. It was a small, local seafood restaurant on the coast where neighborhood friends and families lounged on the shore as they ate fresh fish, enjoying their day off from work. It was men and women sitting by the pool of the hotel, listening to the sounds of the waves from the nearby sea. It was a time when the conflicts between the secular and religious or East and the West seemed to vanish. Or did they?
Leisure is a very important and defining aspect of any culture and Turkey is not an exception. Leisure time is supposed to be a time when people can stop thinking about work, about politics, about religion, a time when people can appreciate their lives and country. Truthfully however, leisure is not a complete escape and while different aspects of a culture may be distinct, they can never truly be separated. Social, religious, and political elements still permeate these times and places of leisure. For example, at the hotel the majority of the prices were listed in euros rather than lira, a constant reminder not only of the flourishing tourist industry in Turkey but also of Turkey’s continuing struggle to enter the European Union. Will the lira one day be completely abandoned in exchange for the euro, further solidifying Turkey’s tie to Europe and the West as opposed to Asia and the East? And even in secular, leisurely Turkey, religion is still always present. On the boat, the music and the crew dance party were paused to observe the afternoon call to prayer, a practice that would never be done in the United States unless it was a specifically religious outing. The women by the hotel pool, some in bikinis, some in full clothing and scarves, further emphasized the contrast between the religious and the secular. Are the traditional, religious women envious of those splashing around half-dressed in the pool or do they view them as immoral and indecent? Is being covered viewed as a sacrifice or simply as a necessary and normal part of their religious lives? Clearly, leisure cannot be totally detached from the rest of the nation’s cultural and societal issues. Nevertheless, leisure time does seem to be a time where issues can be peacefully observed instead of debated, a time that everyone can enjoy together, whether these people may be secular, religious, Turkish or five college students from the United States.

Controlled Chaos

Well its back to the big crazy city after spending 3 amazing days in Izmir, Kusadasi, and Efes. Although Izmir is Turkey’s 3rd largest city, with a population of around 3 million people, it is a completely different world than Istanbul. Driving along the coast of the Aegean Sea you can look out and see Greece, and get lost in the beauty of the water. Actually, if it weren’t for being able to see Greece, and the clear lack of English being spoken, other than by us in the group, Izmir could easily be mistaken for central California, specifically around the Sierra Nevada’s, and wine country. Life there, although clearly much more open still seems to have many elements of the chaotic city life that is present in Istanbul. Specifically the way in which people interact with each other and the driving….. Wow, drivers in this country are INSANE!!!!!!! If you’ve ever been to…. lets say Boston, take the insanity of drivers there and multiply that by about ten and you might begin to understand what it is like to ride in a car in this country. However, what I am starting to notice (other than the incessant honking outside my window all night, every night) is that driving here truly is an art. Actually, Jackson Pollock’s art is a perfect representation of Turkish driving. On the surface everything is very chaotic, disorganized, and most often overwhelming. But, when one stops and actually looks at what is happening there is an incredible amount of method being applied to the madness. Its not that a driver will take each and every chance that they get to cut someone off, barely slowing down for a flashing red light (the all to famous California slide), or passing someone who is going too slow (even if they are already going 5-10 KPH over the speed limit, or there is on-coming traffic) on a winding mountainous road in a no passing zone, but that, everything is done with purpose, and that no one seems to mind any of it. For example, yesterday while driving in Izmir our minibus driver decided to pass another car who wasn’t going quite fast enough, despite there being a line of 3 cars coming at us in the opposite lane. What was the solution you ask, the oncoming cars moved to the side, straddling the lane and the shoulder to allow us room to pass without slowing down or missing a beat, and not one single blast of a car horn was heard. Although driving like that would be absolutely intolerable in the states, it seems to be not only common but also completely accepted here. It is this understanding of the way things work that changes everything from being absolute anarchy to organized / intentional chaos. Like Pollack’s paintings, despite the apparent randomness to it by the naked eye, once one get up close to it and really looks to see what’s there, there is an incredible amount of depth and purpose to the madness.

What I Hope For...

In this first blog post I thought I would talk about what I hope to learn about the Turkish culture. I want to learn about the innovations and turning points in their history that have catapulted them into the modern and/or Western society. Ataturk may have played a major role in that evolvement but were there other players? I also want to investigate how Western society is perceived by Turks and who may be rejecting the movement towards European and American ideals and lifestyles and a more democratic society? Who is accepting this culture shift? I would also like to explore the lifestyles of the Turks and see if where you live in the country effects/ influences that lifestyle, in turn effecting that individuals values, attitudes, and level of acceptance of differing lifestyles. One of the most interesting aspects of Turkey is where it is located and how the location has helped shape its historical past. I would like to look at how Turkey’s geographic location has shaped its past and the role it may play in its future.I would also like to see what the people of Turkey are like in their element. I had Turkish friends but they have always been in the American culture when I was with them, this program’s is providing us all the opportunity to experience the Turkish people in their own society. It will be interesting to see how they communicate in groups, amongst people of relation, and how those in a relationship may interact. Do they act differently than we do in America? Are there specific differences between men and women? What are their roles? Do those differences influence their relationships and roles? I would also like to look at how American pop culture displays portrays the Turkish culture and see if this image holds true. Has our media told their story correctly? It can be presumed that there are some misconceptions. Since this is the case, do these misconceptions cause misunderstandings between the two cultures? Does the Turkish people see our society in the same way we do?I would love to find out how the Turkish people see the current political environment we are in here in America. Who would they like to see win the next election? How do they feel about our political system? Do they believe it works? It will interesting to ask what they believe we could do to change our country to better itself.Overall, there are two reasons I am traveling to Turkey; the first is to learn about the Turkish culture and see how the culture in Turkey differs and is similar to ours in America and two, to see how the geographic location may affect the thinking and practices of an individual.

Sellum

So, its day two, and I’m a little over whelmed. Istanbul is incredible. I spent half of yesterday being left speechless, and my mouth hanging open in pure amazement of the grandeur that we were seeing, and the rest was spent being sleep deprived and jetlagged. However, one thing I’ve come to understand is that Turkish society is one filled with many contradictions, weather intentional, or not, they are undeniably present in everyday life. My first night in the city was spent watching the finals of the EUFA cup in a pub in Istiklal, with two other people from the group. We realized very quickly that we were surrounded by locals who were rooting for both teams. After a while of going back and forth between cheering and booing at what we believed to be good plays and bad calls we started talking about the beautiful game with each other and why we were rooting for which side. The group sitting in front of us was rooting for Chelsea while Alex and I were cheering on Manchester Utd. (who won in a shoot out), and as we discussed why we were each rooting for our teams some things about the culture became very evident, even though we weren’t discussing culture or anything to do with Turkey for that matter. We’ve talked several times about how patriarchical of a society there is in Istanbul, and the machismo that goes along with it. A strange dichotomy exists within males and there interactions in society, in public they appear to have a need to be boisterous and be constantly showboating but at the same time, when it comes to women, they are always placed on a pedestal, in other words, they are “momma’s boys” for lack of a better term. As our new friend was discussing his love for Chelsea, he talked about how a number of the individuals on the team were such incredible players, and that everything about the team was what players did as individuals (bringing forth that idea of the show boating, testosterone enhanced ego), yet each and every time the girl sitting with him opened her mouth, he quieted down, and gave her absolute and undivided attention. Another great contradiction was that of another early experience of mine in the city. Shortly after arriving in the city Stephanie, Alex and I walked around the corner from our hotel to a Nargile (hookah / water pipe) café, and sat down to smoke. While sitting in the outdoor courtyard I noticed that I had stopped paying attention to the chaos of the city around me, and that all I was paying any more attention to was my new companions and the few other people sitting around in the café. While driving, or even walking down the streets the air is completely filled with people hurrying from one place to another, with absolutely no time to waste, and definitely no patience for anyone that gets in their way. On the other hand, from talking to Alex and his early experiences in Istanbul talking to locals, people (generally middle-aged to older men) will spend up to four hours a day, just sitting and smoking either by themselves or alone. The same things go for meals as well, and traditional dinner can take up to 2 hours, even when you are just sitting outside in a café in a busy area. As Elif told us in Istanbul, once you’ve paid for something, the table is yours for the night, no matter how long you want to stay. Yet in the U.S. its, come in, get your food, eat, and get out. The juxtaposition of lives in Istanbul is incredible and very intricate, and these are just surface level examples, let alone delving deeper and deeper in to the chasm between religiosity and secularity. It is plain to see that to exist in Istanbul one must dance a very delicate dance.

Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia was one of the places that I had been most looking forward to visiting on this trip. Prior to this past semester, it was the only place in Turkey that I really even knew about. I have studied it in numerous classes, from sociology to history to art history, learning about its story, its architecture and its amazing mosaics. People that I knew who had previously traveled to Turkey raved about it to me. Clearly, it had a lot to live up to. And I must say, despite the large and obstructive scaffolding in the center of it, the Hagia Sophia may even have exceeded my expectations.
The Hagia Sophia is the oldest building in Istanbul. It has been built and destroyed multiple times and has existed as a church and mosque and is currently a museum and the second most visited site in Turkey. The structure itself is exquisite; it has the largest dome in Turkey, and though it was party covered due to restoration, its presence is undeniable. The mosaics, which had been covered by white wash for so many centuries, have been restored to their original magnificence. It was all that I had been told. Yet, what no one had told me was how it embodies the very idea of the meeting of opposites which is such a central characteristic to the country of Turkey.
Walking into the nave of the Hagia Sophia, honestly the first thing I noticed was neither the enormous dome nor the breathtaking mosaics. Instead, I was drawn to the display of modern student art surrounding the giant scaffolding. At first I was truly surprised to see the incorporation of artwork of present day Turkish students at such an iconic location. But when I thought about it, it was a perfect fit for Turkey, another collaboration of the modern and the traditional, the present and the past. More than that, I believe it also brought new life to the ancient structure. It allowed for a direct comparison of the art of two distinct times, respecting and valuing both. The combination seemed to prove that Turkey does not just have a legendary past but also a bright and promising future, a future of talented students who are not only proud of their past (as seen through the homage paid to the Hagia Sophia in many of their pieces of art) but are also ready to pave their own way in a modern Turkey.
Furthermore, the fact that the Hagia Sophia is no longer a church nor a mosque but a museum displays yet another Turkish collaboration, that of the religious and the secular. This once most sacred building is now secular, almost mirroring the transformation of the Turkish nation. For, while Turkey, despite being a secular nation, has not lost its religious heritage, neither has the Hagia Sophia. Presenting both Christian and Islamic imagery side by side, at heart the Hagia Sophia is truly a religious center, existing peacefully under a secular title, again much like Turkey. Though Turkey is a secular nation whose citizens shop, drink and party with the rest, signs of its religiosity are still extremely prevalent. Mosques are on every street corner, tespi (prayer beads) are in countless shop windows, covered women can be seen on every neighborhood. The secular/religious combination is obviously alive and well, not just in the Hagia Sophia, but throughout Turkey.
So, although I was still in awe of the art and history of the Hagia Sophia, I was even more amazed by the aspects of Turkish life that it brought together. If modernity, tradition, religion and secularity can all live peacefully within the Hagia Sophia, I believe they can exist that way within Turkey as well.

Culture of the East?

Since my arrival in Istanbul I have tried soak in the cultural differences that distinguish east from west. The city has many unique attributes, but the ones I have found most interesting are the architectural differences, the organized chaos, and the elements of patriarchal society. Each of these things are important to the social and political climate that makes the city what it is. The architectural differences range from the subtle to the extreme. Buildings, often seven or more stories tall, line streets that fill each inch of available space. Following devastating earthquakes and fires, some buildings remain abandoned, chard, and missing windows, yet the bustle of commercial life continues in the building on the ground level. The restoration is costly, and the structure may sit uninhabitable for years. It is possible that this difference is driven by economic limitations, or by culture, but there is a clear difference between cityscapes at home and in Istanbul. The mixture of new and old is not the only architectural difference in Istanbul. The grandeur of the mosques that are centuries old top each of the seven hills of the oldest part of the city. An obvious element of Eastern culture, the mosques define the skyline of Istanbul. The city is very obviously secular and diverse, but Muslim elements of social life define the culture and tradition of the city.
Daily, the city fluctuates from busy to chaos. There is foot traffic in every direction with people running out into traffic. Automobile traffic is equally hectic; everyman for himself is the name of the game. On a late night walk to our hotel we nearly could not recognize the street that we had turned onto because of the lack of traffic. Without cars weaving their way through traffic, and parking here and there, the street looked three times the size! Shop keepers clinch each sale by guarding territory in front of their store. Men, women, children, suits, students, city workers, delivery drivers, and tourists all fulfilling the days agenda, fill the streets. The noise of incessant honking is most prevalent among the buzz. The bustle is organized chaos, and although there are many diverse people completing different tasks, there seems to be no problem in the way it all comes together. Aside from the irritated looks exchanged between motorists and pedestrians, apparent in any country, the city has a happy and upbeat vibe. I have not witnessed any people arguing, major traffic accidents, I haven't even seen a mother struggle to control a temperamental child. This difference is unexpected in a city that is teeming with activity. Exit the chaos for a moment by enjoying some ice cream, Turkish coffee, or a chat with a shopkeeper and you will see that Istanbul is a city of friendly faces.
A common misconception among women in the West is that Eastern women lack choices in social and religious freedoms. The women of Istanbul illustrate why this myth should be put to rest. As a secular community, the city provides the opportunity for Muslim women to decide how they will practice their faith. There are many women that choose to not include style of dress as a way to practice their faith, and so like the west, you would not be able to guess their denomination. For Turkish women who choose to incorporate Islam in their attire, there is a range of options. From traditional pure black attire to brightly designed head scarfs with a fashionable pair of high heels, the variety is endless, and I have greatly enjoyed seeing the different ways women express themselves in this culture.
The social structure in Turkey is based on a patriarchal society. This has not been prominent in American culture since the 1960's social revolution, and the cultural dynamic is very interesting. Although the society is steeped in tradition, Turkish women have every opportunity to work, study, travel, and express themselves, save answering to the parents, and lets face it there is no Western woman that escapes that either! The dichotomy is fascinating. There is an element of chivalry that is absent from the culture in the United States, and a level of attention and care is paid to Turkish women. Only by example can I illustrate my point. First, I witnessed a young Turkish couple eating at a cafe, and each time the lady needed something she quickly handled the situation herself, yet if faced with a delay or a need to repeat her needs to the waiter, the gentleman quickly and effectively communicated the lady's needs. The waiter seemed to understand that severing her was his priority. Second, I observed a traditionally dressed woman in her sixties walking a few paces behind her husband. I continued to watch their interaction, because I wondered if this distance was intentional. A few moments later the man turned and looked over his shoulder for his wife. He smiled big and snatched her hand, pulling her to his side. Their body language was closer to the interaction of two young people in love more than it fit the stereotype I expected. Istanbul has much to offer, and I am soaking up the culture and energy of the city with each new experience. I am delighted to find exceptions to every rule and diversity around every corner, and it is only day two!!

Sultanahmet

so Ive been here for a day a half, and i think its definitely time for a real post....

When i arrived in Istanbul, i honestly didn't know what to think. From what Ive read, this is country that has a vast and uncomparable history, one that is shown in everyday life. I thought that it would be easily noticeable that Turkey was not a country of advancement, it was more of a "stuck in the past" type of place. However, in the first 30 seconds i realized i was wrong. 90% of the cars are newer than mine, the roadways are layered with intricate and manicured landscaping, and the people are wearing Armani. (probably a knockoff, but still!!) Istanbul, as i have learned, is a city of 16 million, with 2 million commuting into work every day, putting the grand total at 18 million, and you realize this as you walk down the streets and you have to move out of the way of everyone. So as i thought about what I'm going to do for 2 days, i also thought about what i can write about, and more importantly, what i can talk to Turks about. Little did i know that they would do most of the talking without me even asking those questions. They are an open book waiting to be read. They will talk your ear off about any subject you want to talk about. So the first issue i wanted to bring to the table was what, as a nation, Turkey is, and where do its people want it to go. As i starting talking with 2 waiters i had at a restaurant for dinner, i asked them, if they had the chance to decide where they would rather be categorized, Europe or Asia, both said Europe. They liked the thought of the trendy clothes, music, all of those things were going through there mind at 18 years old. Then i stumbled upon two guys, Mehmet who was 22, and Ali who was 26, and they invited me to sit in front of their shop and drink tea and smoke the water pipe. (then i later learned backgammon from them, and I'm 7-0). I gladly accepted. We began to discuss everything from military, culture, cuisine, family, college, they even went as far as what type of women they liked, Dutch in case you were wondering. So to talk about culture, Mehmet gave me a good example, he said "Learning the taste of an orange cannot be done by reading about it, it must be tasted to fully understand the taste of an orange." He said this in relation to how the America views Turkey, many people do not look favorably upon them because they are a Muslim nation. Then they went on to say that if they could choose, they would pick Asia as there categorization. Why? Because they actually feel resentment that countries like Bulgaria and Romania are so economically, nationally, and in many other ways, poor, they wonder why they were given almost instant entrance into the EU, and Turkey has been "accepted for consideration" for many years now. Mainly because they are not a christian nation. They feel like it is unfair, unjust, and just down right ridiculous. With Istanbul being one of the major players of commerce in the area, and the world, they are way more advanced then those being accepted. They also feel that once they become part of the EU, there will be no more Turkey. No more heritage, no more excitement and wonder, but just another EU nation. I seem to agree with them. With what I'm seeing and understanding, Turkey is not European, or Asian. Neither. Its, well, Turkey. They find pride on the fact that that's who they are and how everyone considers them to be. And how do i know this, well if you ever come to Turkey, try and count how many Turkish flags you see from the airport to your hostel or hotel. You will need a van of six people just to count half of the flags you see. They are everywhere. They put our national pride to shame. A friend of Mehmet and Ali that i met later in the evening told me that if they became part of the EU, they would lose that sense of history and culture that makes them so special. Mainly because all of Turkey would become more westernized. He said that the heart of Turkey is in the east, that is where everything that is history is still alive. If they become EU, that part of the heart will soon fade away, leaving only influence from the west to become their new culture. And he said this with a kind of vague stare, almost as if he knows it is coming, but cant do anything to stop it....
As i sit and think of what to write about, all i can think about is a playground i stopped by as i was walking to my hammam. I stopped, took a few photos, and the kids starting waving at me. So i walked over and started playing soccer with them. The great thing about these kids was that did not see race, religion, nationality, or color. They spoke with me and played with me as if i was one of them, on their turf, in their school. This is what i have come to learn about the the Turks, everyone is accepting of who you are, no matter where you are from. Because, well, each one of them is different as well. Today i spoke with Turks, Kurds, Armenians, Syrians, even Americans, each putting their little bit if history into the broader history of Turkey. But the funny thing is that no matter what part they are from, Asian side, European Side, North, South, Anatolia, each person will say they are Turkish. Meaning that the boundaries that they used to have between them (Turks and Kurds, or Turks and Armenians) are gone and Turkey is finally trying to mature as a nation towards the same, unified goal.

Today a man gave me directions by walking ten minutes out of his way to show me where something was. He was 65, an electrician, and had never left the country. We talked for awhile, I asked him if he ever wanted to travel. He smiled at me, shook his head no, and said, "Why would I ever want to leave, I live in turkey, no country can compare, so why waste my money"

Getting Ready!!!! AHHHHH!!!!!!!

So, Its just after 11:00 the night before we leave. I really don't quite know what to expect, but I'm excited none the less. I've done a fair amount of traveling, but this is my first time going somewhere that I really don't know without some someone (or at least meeting up with someone) that I don't really know either. Ive never been one to get particularly excited or giddy over a trip like this, but for the last week it feels like I am the proverbial kid in a candy store. I look at our itinerary and just think, "THIS IS GOING TO BE SO COOL!!!" Ive only met the other people in our group two times now, but I think its a mutual feeling in that we all know that this is going to be a life changing experience.
Over the last two semesters Ive taken classes called Sociology of the Middle East, and have come to realize that although I probably know quite a bit more about the region that most other people, my understanding of the region pales in comparison to what there is to know. The closest Ive ever been to Turkey is Israel. I went on a ten day trip, two years ago with a program called Birthright. I have a strange feeling that Istanbul is going to be very similar to Jerusalem. The histories of both cities span thousands of years, while at the same time remain incredibly modern. Israel and Turkey both have highly diverse religious makeups, spanning across numerous religions, but also varying degrees of religiosity from extremely conservative to completely secular.
I know its not normal for anyone my age to enjoy, let alone look forward to, going to class, but I truly cant wait. Having the opportunity to sit in a class with Turkish students or sit in a cafe and talk to someone about what ever comes to mind will be one of the greatest educational opportunities of my life. In addition to this, the ability to stand in a 1000 year old Mosque and talk about its history or walk through ancient bazar's and Greek ruins will be infinitely more significant than almost any class room lecture could ever be.
I really have no idea what to expect at this point, other than that this trip will be absolutely incredible. But unfortunately there is still lots to be done and little time to do it in. So it must be back to attempting to fit everything but my kitchen sink into one black suitcase, while still attempting to leave room for everything that I want to bring back. We'll have to see what happens with that. So the next time people hear from me, it will be from The City on Seven Hills.

Collaborations

A common saying goes, “Two heads are better than one,” and generally I agree. When two people work together, twice as many viewpoints are expressed, twice as many ideas are created, twice as much work is done. Collaborations can be magical; they combine two separate entities, fusing them together to fashion something entirely new and unique. In fact, this maxim that two is better than one is one that is actually far-reaching and can be applied to more than just minds. Think of all the examples of extraordinary collaborations: peanut butter and jelly, Sonny and Cher, the country of Turkey. Yes, the nation of Turkey is a prime example of the power of combinations.
Turkey is a country that was built on the concept of combining distinct ideas. The title of this program, When East Meets West, embraces this very notion. However, more than just two hemispheres collide within Turkey. As well as encompassing a mix of Eastern and Western cultures, Turkey also merges the religious with the secular and the traditional with the modern. Turkey is located at a very unique location on the globe, the meeting point of the European and Asian continents. So, it has long been at the cross point of two cultures and therefore has been exposed to and taken on many elements of each. Turkey also has a history of fusing both the religious and the secular. Upon its formal creation as a nation, Ataturk made the decision to make Turkey a completely secular nation. Religion and state were to be entirely separate. Yet, this secular nation was created on top of a strong Muslim heritage. The people who now identify themselves as Turks had forever before identified themselves as Muslims, and though this religious identity was forced into the private sector it was not eliminated. So today, Turkey faces a complex dynamic, playing the secular nature of the state against the religiosity of its history. Another collaboration that exists within Turkey is that of the modern with the traditional. While Turkey remains proud of and tied to its Ottoman and Islamic traditions, it is also a very modern nation. Ataturk was determined for Turkey to be Westernized and modern, and his determination has been engrained into the minds of the Turkish people.
I am very curious to see these combinations at work in Turkey, to see whether they will be as prevalent in everyday life as I imagine they will be. Moreover, I am interested as to what type of collaborations they will be. I believe that there are two types of collaborations, one resembling chocolate milk and one similar to Simon and Garfunkel. Will the East and the West, the religious and the secular, the modern and the traditional completely combine, as in chocolate milk, to form an entirely new creation, or will they remain separate, as Simon and Garfunkel, simply living together side-by-side in one place? Most of all, I am curious to see if Turkey will uphold the motto that two is better than one. Are two continents, two religions, two cultures all within a single country really better than one? These next two weeks will tell and I cannot wait to find out :)

Finally!

I've just read Alex's post and it makes me more excited than ever to get going to the airport! The excitement built by just a few meetings is insane, and I can't wait to see all of the amazing history we have heard about. The sad part is knowing how fast 2 1/2 weeks will fly by, and so we will have to make a lifetime of memories pretty quickly. These memories and experiences will be the highlight of my Master's Degree program. As a student of Political Science, I have never taken a Sociology course. I hope it doesn't make me want to change my major, because its a little too late for that!! I do intend to incorporate my interest in political science into the experiences that I will come away with. During our stay I am going to focus my studies on the Millet system of living and government that existed during the Ottoman Empire.
This system of governing allowed great political and religious freedoms. It exemplifies how various religions and cultures can be intertwined to create a unique, diverse, and free society. The Ottoman's were successful in ruling this type of society, and since that time the religious and political climate has fluctuated. I will attempt to better understand this fluctuation between historical, traditional, and modern ways of life and government in Turkey. In my 30 years, most of them spent as a student, I've learned almost nothing about Islam and Muslim tradition. I cannot wait to expand my understanding of one of the world's most influential religions.
These are my expectations for the academic portion of this trip, but my excitement and expectations do not end there. I cannot wait to immerse myself into this culture rich area! The marketplaces will be full of so many wonderful things, and as I walk through, I will think about the list of people in my head that I have to bring a piece of Turkey home to. The smells of the food that fill the air will be an experience in itself. Trying new foods is an adventure, and I am an adventure seeker! I have experienced the region's food here in the United States, and LOVE it, so the real thing must be even better. Food will not be the only thing, in Turkey, that is mind blowing for me. As Americans we do not enjoy the lenghty culture and history that other nations do. One trip to Western Europe and any American will say, "Wow, we don't have anything like that!" I am expecting Istanbul, Turkey to provide a historical experience even greater than that of Western Europe. Architecture of old buildings, historical neighborhood walks, Roman cities will not only provide an amazing educational experience, but will be a fantasy-like experience involving a bit of time travel. Busy markets, delicious food, time travel cannot make for a shabby summer. Dikkat, Turkey!! HERE WE COME!

Merhaba....

Its 12:30, Im not done packing, and i have to be at the airport in 6 hours. As every minute passes I say to myself....Its ok, ill just sleep on the plane(s) tomorrow. But who am i kidding, i know i cant sleep well on any plane at anytime. I really dont think i would be able to sleep right now anyway. Im used to the college student sleeping schedule. In bed around 2, if not later, then up at 8 to cram for an exam. And for the first time, tonight, i thought about what a 21 year old college student in istanbul would be doing. Does he or she stay up all hours of the night, even later than i, and wake up and cram like every student here. Or are they this rare breed of students that stay in diligently every night and focus on their studies.  I dont know, obviously, but the great thing about this situation is that in 24 hours im going to find out. Over the course of the next 2 and 1/2 weeks that i will be in Turkey, i plan on studying this, among many other things, not to learn as a tourist, but as an international student. One that will be attending class in many different settings such as a mosque, palace, museum, and even the occasional hammam (turkish bath).  From each of these "Life Lectures" i plan on absorbing, observing, listening, and even asking, hopefully in turkish, all the questions that i dont know the answer to or are curious about. However, through all this i also plan on being a teacher as well.  With the foreign view of the United States right now being, how should i put this, somewhere between a rock and a hard place, i plan on showing those who may be skeptical of Americans, what we are as well. I honestly dont now what i will be specifically studying and writing about. Every topic seems to have a certain degree of interest to me. I really am interested in spending time with Turkish college students, seeing how they learn/live. Thats what really interests me, with any culture, but specifically with the Turks. The dichotomy that exists within the nation and its people. One subject i would like to determine is whether they aare in Europe or Asia, or that funny little marriage of the two, Eurasia. Either way i think its going to be the trip of a lifetime. As i wound down now, I realize i forgot something, im sure its one of many things i forgot. As i end my first post, i only have one final thought before i leave for this trip.......I just hope they have Mcdonalds over there.