Friday, May 23, 2008

Culture of the East?




Since my arrival in Istanbul I have tried soak in the cultural differences that distinguish east from west. The city has many unique attributes, but the ones I have found most interesting are the architectural differences, the organized chaos, and the elements of patriarchal society. Each of these things are important to the social and political climate that makes the city what it is. The architectural differences range from the subtle to the extreme. Buildings, often seven or more stories tall, line streets that fill each inch of available space. Following devastating earthquakes and fires, some buildings remain abandoned, chard, and missing windows, yet the bustle of commercial life continues in the building on the ground level. The restoration is costly, and the structure may sit uninhabitable for years. It is possible that this difference is driven by economic limitations, or by culture, but there is a clear difference between cityscapes at home and in Istanbul. The mixture of new and old is not the only architectural difference in Istanbul. The grandeur of the mosques that are centuries old top each of the seven hills of the oldest part of the city. An obvious element of Eastern culture, the mosques define the skyline of Istanbul. The city is very obviously secular and diverse, but Muslim elements of social life define the culture and tradition of the city.
Daily, the city fluctuates from busy to chaos. There is foot traffic in every direction with people running out into traffic. Automobile traffic is equally hectic; everyman for himself is the name of the game. On a late night walk to our hotel we nearly could not recognize the street that we had turned onto because of the lack of traffic. Without cars weaving their way through traffic, and parking here and there, the street looked three times the size! Shop keepers clinch each sale by guarding territory in front of their store. Men, women, children, suits, students, city workers, delivery drivers, and tourists all fulfilling the days agenda, fill the streets. The noise of incessant honking is most prevalent among the buzz. The bustle is organized chaos, and although there are many diverse people completing different tasks, there seems to be no problem in the way it all comes together. Aside from the irritated looks exchanged between motorists and pedestrians, apparent in any country, the city has a happy and upbeat vibe. I have not witnessed any people arguing, major traffic accidents, I haven't even seen a mother struggle to control a temperamental child. This difference is unexpected in a city that is teeming with activity. Exit the chaos for a moment by enjoying some ice cream, Turkish coffee, or a chat with a shopkeeper and you will see that Istanbul is a city of friendly faces.
A common misconception among women in the West is that Eastern women lack choices in social and religious freedoms. The women of Istanbul illustrate why this myth should be put to rest. As a secular community, the city provides the opportunity for Muslim women to decide how they will practice their faith. There are many women that choose to not include style of dress as a way to practice their faith, and so like the west, you would not be able to guess their denomination. For Turkish women who choose to incorporate Islam in their attire, there is a range of options. From traditional pure black attire to brightly designed head scarfs with a fashionable pair of high heels, the variety is endless, and I have greatly enjoyed seeing the different ways women express themselves in this culture.
The social structure in Turkey is based on a patriarchal society. This has not been prominent in American culture since the 1960's social revolution, and the cultural dynamic is very interesting. Although the society is steeped in tradition, Turkish women have every opportunity to work, study, travel, and express themselves, save answering to the parents, and lets face it there is no Western woman that escapes that either! The dichotomy is fascinating. There is an element of chivalry that is absent from the culture in the United States, and a level of attention and care is paid to Turkish women. Only by example can I illustrate my point. First, I witnessed a young Turkish couple eating at a cafe, and each time the lady needed something she quickly handled the situation herself, yet if faced with a delay or a need to repeat her needs to the waiter, the gentleman quickly and effectively communicated the lady's needs. The waiter seemed to understand that severing her was his priority. Second, I observed a traditionally dressed woman in her sixties walking a few paces behind her husband. I continued to watch their interaction, because I wondered if this distance was intentional. A few moments later the man turned and looked over his shoulder for his wife. He smiled big and snatched her hand, pulling her to his side. Their body language was closer to the interaction of two young people in love more than it fit the stereotype I expected. Istanbul has much to offer, and I am soaking up the culture and energy of the city with each new experience. I am delighted to find exceptions to every rule and diversity around every corner, and it is only day two!!

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