Monday, July 20, 2009

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Kusadasi. What word can I use to describe this Turkish experience? Miserable. The first hotel was a disaster. The second hotel was costly, and I felt like I was staying in the Turkish version of Miami. Personally, if I wanted to visit Miami, I would hop on a plane and spend a weekend there. This is where this notion of "globalization" truly sunk in. Kusadasi is a cruise ship port town packed with booming disco clubs and bars. This beach town, though beautiful in several ways, showed American influence more so than any other area of Turkey that I had visited up until this point. Every street corner seemed to have some shop or some vendor selling a knock-off American product of some sort (from watches to jackets... you could find it all in Kusadasi).

Now it would not be fair to launch an attack on this town without noting that Kusadasi is a port town that sees somewhere between four and seven cruise ships port for the day. These Mediterranean tours drop off eager tourists willing to spend money and cut them loose for the day. Many of these people have no idea that they are being sold carpets that are not made in Turkey, but made in China. Ultimately it is the tourists fault for being so naive, but it is not hard to get taken advantage of if you don't do your homework before traveling and then shopping in a foreign country. You have to understand the value of currency, the value of the product you are looking at, and at bare minimum a rudimentary understanding of what you are purchasing.

I will digress further. I visited MANY carpet and kilim shops while I was in Turkey. I experienced the back room sales tactics, the free cups of tea, the hours of conversations; I experienced Turkish business practice. Ultimately my motivation came from the thrill of finding something for my dining room. However, at the beginning I had no idea what I was doing. When I first went into shops, the salesmen would start the prices off at anywhere from five to ten times the actual value of the product I was looking at. Fortunately, after reading a plethora of online articles and going to a class on how to identify authentic Turkish kilims I learned how to bargain. Bargaining, on a side note, is a way of life in Turkey. I was able to bargain for a bottle of water outside the Grand Bazaar. This was one of the more entertaining and frustrating parts of our trip to Turkey. Yet in the end, it taught me yet another cultural lesson. Walmart has not overrun the whole world with fixed low pricing. I guess Istanbul was refreshing in that regard, and honestly in my most humble opinion I think I got quite good at bargaining with all of the local shop owners.

Anyhow, continuing from there Kusadasi truly did not yield many pleasurable experiences. After watching a used condom float by me in the ocean I was ready for a change, but that was why I was in Kusadasi in the first place. Kusadasi is near some of the most famous, historic ruins of ancient times. Ephesus, which is on the West Coast of Anatolia, was a large Greek port city that was eventually over-run by the Romans. Interestingly, the thirty percent of the unearthed parts of the city give its onlookers a pretty amazing view of the architectural layout of such a key city that is mentioned multiple times throughout the Bible. Furthermore, before visiting Ephesus I was able to see what once was one of the seven wonders of the world: The Temple of Artemis (really just one large pillar).

My personal high point was seeing the home of the Blessed Mother Mary. The respect shown from Christians and Muslims alike at this sight was truly uplifting. With news stations polluting the airwaves with talk of anti-Muslim and anti-Christian sentiments, it was a relief to see believers of both faiths coming together to appreciate a sight that was important to both their religions. After all the Virgin Mother was mentioned in both the Bible and the Qu'ran. To me this was a a respite from the ill-effects Kusadasi had offered earlier in the day before our tour began. Instead of seeing globalization at its peak, I was afforded the opportunity to see two unique cultures remain intact coexisting peacefully in one location. Traditions from both religions were respected. To me this might have been one of the most peaceful moments of that portion of the trip.

Ultimately, our short time on the outskirts of Kusadasi were possibly the best parts of my time in Turkey. Not only was the scenery breathtaking, but the weather was fantastic (I believe it was 110 degrees Fahrenheit) when we were there. Okay, that part might not have been "fantastic", but in the end it was worth it. Witnessing such ancient ruins that are still being unearthed more and more annually was awe-inspiring. Some pictures are included below:

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