Reflections

While I missed the United States and, quite surprisingly, Mexican food, now that I'm home I miss Turkey. I'll find myself waiting for the call to prayer, expecting to need to jump out of oncoming traffic, and wanting with every part of me a wet hamburger and some mayonnaise. It's strange how much of an impact one place can have on you.

Since returning, I've been asked a lot of the same questions I was asked before I left. They're often stereotypical and misinformed. The difference is, this time I can give them all different answers. No longer ignorant myself, I can tell them with honesty how incredible the culture, history, and society is. No, people did not drop to their knees in the middle of working when there was a call to prayer. No, all women were not covered head to toe in layers of clothing. No, I was not in danger because I am not Muslim. Before, when I didn't know the answers to these questions, I found myself wondering the same things. Now that I know the truths, I have no qualms with setting people straight.

The history we learned and witnessed still blows my mind. Even more mind-blowing is the amount I have yet to know and understand. Three weeks in Turkey barely scratches the surface of all it has to offer. It was a crash course in one of the most complicated subjects I've ever encountered. However, it did change me. I learned about a religion that, before, was absolutely foreign to me. I learned that stereotypes are pervasive and rarely carry merit. I learned that there are cultures out that we don't really talk about in the United States and ultimately I learned that we should. The three weeks I spent in Turkey were three of the most enriching weeks of my life.

Home

It's odd to think that I've only been back from Turkey for just over two weeks. I jumped back into my old routine and now my mind has completely shifted from deciphering Turkish pronunciations to the conversion rate trends and PHP errors that plague my career. I thought it'd take me longer to get back into the swing, but I was back in my routine 9 hours after the wheels touched down in KC.

I loved Turkey, and everyone is already sick of hearing about it. I'm enjoying learning more about the country through readings and trying to talk my friends and family into making trips (at least 2 people have been convinced!). But one thing I realized on my trip that really surprised me was how much I loved the life I've created for myself in KC. I try to picture myself living and working in Istanbul, and I can't do it. Don't get me wrong - if the opportunity presented itself, I'd jump at it. But one thing that seemed clear to me from our time with our Turkish friends is the idea of helping and protecting your own, and my people are here.

Baris and his friends would always tell us how terrible Turkish men were, despite the fact that they were actively disproving that through their constant helpfulness. I think what they really meant is that we couldn't expect the same level of kindness from just anyone on the street. Not that other men were 'bad', but that they were treating us as they would close friends or family because they were asked to by someone they cared about and we were cool enough for it not be a chore. We couldn't (and shouldn't) expect that same treatment from strangers.

At 19, I gave myself the goal to live and work abroad by 25. At 25, I extended that to 30, but now at 27, I question if packing my life up and moving it abroad would be counterproductive to what I say I want out of life. Stepping into a culture with so many layers of history and meaning in every interaction without a cultural interpreter would be overwhelming, but could be overcome in time.

One thing that my time in Turkey underscored was that life isn't about what food you eat or which cafe you have it in, but who you share it with. To leave behind my huge family, wonderful friends and even terrific coworkers in order to start over in an amazing country without them would replace my personal history with a simplified understanding of how other people live. It's wonderful and a bit scary to realize that where you are is exactly where you should be.

But that doesn't mean I'm not already saving for Machu Picchu 2013...

My Selfish Reasons To Keep Turkey A Secret!

I spent 3 wonderful weeks learning much more than I ever had about a country. Turkey is a place that I would have never imagined visiting this time last year, but a place that I can’t wait to visit again. I feel ashamed that I never knew about Turkey. In fact I barely knew where it was geographically, and even though I’ve learned so much I know there is still a lot of things I am still ignorant about. Something that I notice about turkey that I have talked about many times before is very apparent to me now that I’ve spend a few days in Paris. Turkey is new and exciting, there are few Americans wondering the streets and that is why it’s such a magical place to visit. Unlike Paris, it hasn’t been spoiled with tourists. During our program there were situations where we would avoid the “tourist spots” until now I was unsure of what exactly that meant and why these spots must be avoided. Well, I can understand exactly what that means now, when I visited the Lourve yesterday it was madness. A museum saturated with humans, everywhere, bumping into you, taking pictures and standing around… just in the way! I was excited to see the Mona Lisa, but the experience was almost shattered since I had to wait in line and was then pushed out of the way by people taking pictures and using there flash (although that is forbidden!). Now, there were of course some situations in Turkey where there were lots of people, but nothing like what I encountered yesterday. Turkey has lots of tourists, but the people were respectful and actually seemed to care about what they were doing.
In my last blogs I questioned the European Unions choice not to admit Turkey immediately like they have done for all the other nations that applied. Although it is not at all for the reason of preserving Turkeys authenticity I would be nervous that Turkey will become what places like Paris are. I have heard that Turkey is similar to Paris 30 years ago. It was new and excited and although many Europeans traveled there it was not something that thousands of Americans did every year. Turkey has many European tourists, but not many Americans know enough to travel to its cities. If it were accepted to the EU it would open many doors, and be a very fortunate opportunity for many of the residents. Yet, it would also open the door of the unknown. More people would learn about how brilliant the country is and less people would fear it as a scary country that boarders Iran and Iraq. So then, I would expect that the tourists would start flooding in from all around the world. Soon it would no longer be classified as a “Hidden Jem” but as a tourist hot spot. Maybe it’s selfish of me to want to keep this wonderful secret, it’s obvious that the only thing that tourism is hurting are the other tourists and also just annoying the locals. I want Turkey to be successful, I want people to finally understand how amazing it is, but at the same time I don’t! I want to keep it just as it is.

The Hidden Jem That Is Turkey

After our final lecture my understanding of Turkey in regards to the EU are a little more clear. I’ve only been to London and I’m sitting here in Paris but from those few experiences I can see that Turkey is very European and would fit in nicely with countries like England and France. It is clear that Turkey has adopted many cultural traits that some European countries have, yet they can still hold on to the unique and rich culture that it’s known for by the people who have been there. It’s a shame that outsiders do not understand what Turkey is truly like. I believe that if more Europeans and north Americans took the time to travel to this country they would find that there is much more common ground than normally thought. It is so unfair that the country gets a bad reputation because of it’s location, religion, history and population. It’s ridiculous that the consideration for the EU has taken this long at all- but at the same time it makes one wonder what would happen to Turkey if they were accepted in the future.
One of the main reasons turkey excites me so much is the sense of mystery it has. Not many people can say much about this country unless they have visited, lived there, or gone out of their way to research it. I think turkey as one of the worlds “Hidden Jems”, I would fear that an acceptance to the EU might jeopardize the secrecy and mystery that goes along with cities like Istanbul, Izmir, or Ankara. Certainly many things would change pretty quickly if they were accepted. Yet, as you can see form Ataturks rein, Turkey is very able to accept change. There is a history of being able to acclimate themselves even under extreme circumstances.
I want Turkey to stay the way it is- so beautiful, ancient, and ever expanding, but it is clear that there is a lot to gain from the EU. There are positives and negatives, either way Turkey has done a find job standing on it’s own. After the Ottoman Empire, Ataturk was able to make a name for Ankara and make a small village into a growing global city over night. With motivation and innovation like that I question (as do many) why the EU can’t see past the “strange” and unknown” that is feared and look at Turkey in the way it should be seen. Amazing.

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk

It's really impossible to understand the Turkish state without understanding Ataturk. It's difficult to explain the significance of Ataturk to Turkish history in a single blog post. Even finding a comparable figure from U.S. History is difficult. Ataturk is the founder of a nation and its first strong leader, much like George Washington, but he also has the progressiveness of Teddy Roosevelt, he was beloved like Franklin Delano Roosevelt, and secularists harken back to the days of his leadership much like the many American conservatives who remember Ronald Reagan. Maybe Ataturk has the importance of all of these figures rolled into one charismatic leader...and then multiplied by 10.

Ataturk vanquished the occupying Allied powers and replaced the broken Ottoman Empire with a modern state in less than two decades. But his accomplishments went beyond that of just nation building. He transformed the everyday life for the Turkish people. He created the very concept that there was such a group of people who could be considered Turkish, and that they could be connected through a new national identity. Ataturk created this along with essentially everything that it takes to run a modern nation from scratch. A new capital city, a new secular government, new styles of dress, a new language and script, Ataturk constructed all of these.

He's often credited with bringing democracy to Turkey. But it's difficult to see how anything about Ataturk's rule was especially democratic. It's clear that Ataturk was the sole deciding source on many of these drastic reforms. And resistance to his policies would be dealt with swiftly. For everything good about democracies, there are disadvantages. Giving more people a voice in policy making makes things much more difficult to get done. And it's difficult to make the case that Turkey didn't need Ataturk's strong leadership during this period.

It really is impossible to imagine what Turkey would be like today without Ataturk's influence. It's also hard for me to explain to other Americans how deep the affection the Turkish people hold for him is. You can't walk into any shop, cafe, restaurant, bus station, airport, hotel lobby, etc. without seeing a portrait of a staunch, resolute Ataturk gazing off into the distance. I think that maybe the U.S. has experienced similar periods of worship for their leaders, but never something so strongly based on a single individual. Maybe George Washington as the first president of the United States, or maybe FDR during World War II, but there's nothing that matches the longevity and the intensity of admiration that the Turkish people feel for Ataturk.

The Little Things- Bigger Than I Thought

I knew that Turkey has had an application in to the European Union for awhile now, but I had no idea just how long and contentious the application process has been. Turkey first applied to the European Community in 1963, when it was told that its accession would be done in three stages. The second stage was completed in 1994, with very little work being done since then. Fifty states applied at the same time as Turkey and all others except Turkey have received an invitation to join. To add insult to injury, states like Albania and Lithuania, admittedly less modernized and applying far later, have already joined. So what’s the deal? Why has Turkey been snubbed? Should it even continue its quest for inclusion in the EU?

I don’t know the answers to these questions. There seem to be problems with every solution people can imagine, to the point where a decade-long gridlock sounds like the most likely outcome at this point.



But should Turkey finally join the EU, what are the biggest problems it will face? Adopting the European Constitution? Changing currency? Nope. Apparently the biggest concern among Turkish people about joining the European Union is what to do about the changes they might have to make to their eating habits. It sounds funny at first, but when you consider the issue, it actually makes since. The constitution and other legal/political changes won’t really affect the day to day lives of the average Turk. What food they can consume will affect their day to day lives in a much more intimate way.

It sheds a little light on what it takes to make large-scale changes in a social group. Generally people will be less concerned with the high politics of it all and will instead ask “So what does this mean for my family meals? How will my habits be affected?” The small things I never considered before get politicized here in a way that is really fascinating.



Another example of this is the headscarf. We learned that it is not really a private issue when a young woman decides to wear a headscarf, but instead a very public/political declaration. It’s a performance meant to illicit a reaction. Ironically, there are some young women using the modesty of the headscarf to be provocative. I’ve never thought of the scarf in this way- I always learned it was a symbol of oppression. One of the best things this trip to Turkey has done is to totally wipe out what I thought I knew and confuse me to no end. I love it.

I Still Don't Know Much...

It has become glaringly obvious that I had no clue what the Islamic religion really was until I came to Turkey. Not only was I completely naive, but slightly ignorant in the ways of this religion and ultimate culture as a result.

The Turkish government has undergone a struggle of rule since the Ottoman empire was in power. A nation that started out extremely conservative, and with a strong religious influence, became extremely secular under Ataturk, the shaker and mover of the country. He basically demanded that the population throw out the idea of the headscarf and adorn modern secular garb to distinguish a solid unified population. This method was both cautiously and whole-heartedly accepted but overall completely effective. His ideas succeeded in uniting the state and creating a radically new Turkey that we know it as today. More recently in history the headscarf on women has been reestablished and one can still see a good percentage of women wearing one. The feeling is that, even thought nothing is specifically mentioned in the Koran about this matter, a woman should cover herself in public and only be unveiled for her husband. This coverage is seen by those who choose to cover as a "holier-than-thou" status, and a lower class status by those who don't.

Just like in any other religion there are those who practice and those who observe. There are the Muslims, because they are Muslim by birth and upbringing, and there are those who are Islamists, who are pushing for the political system to adopt more of the Islamic fundamentals. It is just like in the states with the separation of church and state. Turkey has been battling that separation for decades. How close can the Mosque get to Parliament? It has been a continuous struggle between the secularists (those pushing an agenda in parliament) and the Islamists.

I think when I imagined an Islamic country I imagined terrorism, every woman covered, everyone dropping to their knees at each call to prayer, and a tough outlook on government and opposing nations. I have discovered the contrary. Not only are Turks a relatively peaceful people, but they are extremely modern and "secular" thanks to the period of Ataturk. There is so much to learn about other religions in order to gain worldly perspective and to understand a people. I am so glad my ridiculous stereotype has been readjusted for the better and my knowledge of Turkish people has been broadened as much as it has. I can only hope so many more people can get the same lesson I did when it comes to a new nation and not prejudge.

New Perspective

In lecture today, I learned that the head scarf some Turkish women wear is actually much more controversial than I thought. Women’s incredibly conservative dress code was restructured during Atatürk’s reign and up until the 1990’s most women were content showing more of their bodies and leaving their hair uncovered. The 90’s brought on a movement from young women all over Turkey reverting back to the more traditional and Islamic-based headwear and values.

This caused issues in the modernized society, especially in many Turkish universities. Faculty struggled to draw a line between appropriate and extreme in an educational institution; for instance, conservative Muslim women aren’t allowed to touch any man other than their husband, meaning these newly conservative young women in medical school were unable to operate on male patients. While there were mosques near every campus, many of these students would leave class to pray in hallways and on the campus lawn, causing a disruption for the rest of the students and staff.

All of these things were seen as political statements. The students were rebelling against the modernization of Turkey by re-embracing traditional habits and apparel. Many people, myself once included, view the scarf as a symbol of oppression. It seems like an unnecessarily conservative way to dress and, as I always thought, created a double standard in certain societies. Why should the women have to cover themselves while the men have no dress restrictions? It appears to be their way of keeping women submissive and subservient to their husbands.

After learning about young women choosing to wear headscarves as a political statement, however, I am re-thinking my harsh opinions. These women don’t view their scarves as sexist and oppressive; for them, they symbolize a more traditional time and their religion. (While the root of this conservative dress is not actually Islamic, many Muslims choose to link it with their religion.)

I guess what I’m saying is, I still don’t love the idea of the scarf, but I am learning that there are many different issues surrounding it. Knowing that some women actually choose to wear it and don’t “have to” according to a religious text or a male-dominated system makes it easier for me to accept the idea.

A Sight for Sore Eyes

One of the things I’ll miss the most about Turkey is the imagery. I love the image of the tulip and how you can find it anywhere in Istanbul. I will no longer think of the Dutch when I see a tulip- I’ll think of Turkey and how every mosque has tulips painted on the tiles or woven into the carpet. Since Islam prohibits the use of the human form in art, everything seems somehow more creative and beautiful. Paintings and mosaics of plants or geometric patterns are common, but never get boring. The designs can get so intricate that I marvel at how much effort it must have taken to create.



It all became even more impressive when our guide took us to a small mosque and told us that each tile was hand painted without any sort of stencil, yet each figure was almost exactly like the one before it. The thousands of artists over the centuries that have their art displayed throughout this city must have had so much discipline to create and recreate the same forms with such clarity and precision. What motivated them to do this? What drove them to slave away over pieces of tile or carpet for years? Was it out of a love for their religion, the empire, or just pride in their craft? Was it something else entirely? We even had the chance to see some ceramics being made and it still amazed me that people could sit down and create such things.



Even the Arabic script seems like an intense process to me. Some of it is written in a way that it is more art than text, and that craft takes years to perfect. Another symbol I find intriguing is the three circles, representing the three continents of the Ottoman Empire. At its height, the empire stretched over Asia, Europe, and Africa. The three circles can be found almost anywhere, even on people as tattoos. I can’t think of a single Western image I would care enough to have permanently inscribed on my body. I’ve really learned to love these images and it’ll be hard to leave them behind.

Sonra Görüşürüz*

*Google translator says that "sonra görüşürüz" is "see you later" in Turkish. I can neither confirm nor deny.

Tomorrow is our last day in Istanbul, and I'm slowly saying good-bye to the city. My last wet burger from the corner vendor, last time to see some of our new friends, my last day exploring the side streets off Istiklal. I've really come to love this country's work hard, play hard attitude, wonderful hospitality and kindness, and rich, fascinating history.

I'm pretty sure I'll find my way back to Turkey, so this isn't so much a good-bye as a see you later. I do wonder if the city I'll return to in five or ten years will be the same one I've come to love over the last few weeks.

A common message through our lectures is how quickly things change in Turkey. As a crossing point between the East and West, the country is constantly being pulled in different directions. This appears in the growth of popularity of Starbucks and nargile cafes. Although both coffee and water pipes have a long history in Turkey and both venues are intended for enjoying time with friends, the experiences are distinctly Western and Eastern. Another example of the shifting sands of culture in Turkey is a growing identity as a Turkish nation. I also surprised to hear that the Turkish flags that have been so ubiquitous through the country were actually side-effect of the growth in nationalism over the last decade.



With the push and pull that Turkey is constantly experiencing, I wonder how much the country will change before I'm able to make my way back here. Will it be a part of the European Union and become increasingly democratized? Will Islam take a greater role in public life and, if so, what will that look like? Will the growing sense of ethnicity lead to greater tensions or will tensions be defused and a peace found with the Kurds?

I suppose that as long as my Turkish friends are able to live good lives, the back and forth swing doesn't matter much. The things I love about Turkey will still be there, even if the currency is Euros instead of Lira.

A Long Way Gone

I have learned that I despise tour groups. Must they continually take up the middle of the road or the entire doorway or block the main attraction of a site at all angles? People tend to resort back to their sheep-like nature and inevitably follow blindly the neon flag raised in the air somewhere ahead of the crowd as the ringleader yammers on in Chinese, Russian, German, Turkish, what have you. They must “pull over” every three minutes to “re-group” and it takes forever before they can actually get somewhere. I know this because I have been a part of these maddening masses in previous excursions. Never again. I am one to avoid being in the way and prefer to power walk ahead and wander in and out of shops or museums. I want to get lost and discover the hidden treasures of a city.

I have also come to the realization that the American stereotype abroad is somewhat justified. American citizens believe that people in other countries hate tourists. Well, I don’t blame them. I have witnessed a number of tourists, first hand, who have gotten up-in-arms with shop keepers about some minute detail or some trivial matter. I have also witnessed blatant negligence when it comes to garbage; tossing to-go cups along the roadside or used tissues on a lawn. And in such a beautiful country! Why can’t they walk ten feet to a trashcan? It’s infuriating. Instead of humbling themselves to the service of their foreign hosts, Americans traveling in another country often seem to hold themselves to some god-like standard in which they have deemed themselves superior to the natives of that country. This is completely outrageous. No wonder Americans get such a bad rep. I don’t mean to hate on my own country, but it’s just ridiculous how ignorant people can be.

The Head Scarf Is Optional!

We have spoken quite a bit about the Islamic past of Turkey. It’s interesting to see an example of a country that has had such tension with its future and religious affiliation. No matter how secular someone would want to believe Turkey is, there is no doubt that the great majority of the population are Muslim. Since we have been in Istanbul I notice these men and women on and regular basis and they seem to fit in perfectly in the background of the city. The Muslims that are much more secular also fit in perfectly in the city, there doesn’t seem to be any outward tension with anyone on the streets (that I have noticed) whether it’s Muslims or non- Muslims. But, this is a far cry from the tension of the political system in Turkey. It seems from what we have been hearing that there is always a push and pull for a more conservative Islamic nation or a more secular nation. It seems to me, an outsider to this world, that the seculars seem to be in the lead. Upon coming to Istanbul there was a little concern about how me (being a girl) should be dressing or acting in public, but since being here I realize that what I wear in the states is perfectly acceptable here (if not a little too casual). The only time we ever have to dress a little more conservatively is when we are entering a Mosque, and that is very understandable considering I would dress that way if I were going to a church or synagogue. (the head scarf was optional!)

Its difficult for someone who isn’t Turkish to try to make assumptions about what is best for this country. Honestly, I have no idea. I don’t want to be a person who goes to a place that is different from what I am used to and believe that them changing is right. Its very clear that Turkey is thousands of miles away from America. Yet, its interesting that Americans can make snap judgment on the Turkish people because of their issues with the separation of religion and state. As was brought up in our guest lecture today- Americans have a very difficult time separating religion and state. Just take a look at our money; every coin and dollar is branded with “In God We Trust” or even our own motto “God Bless America”. It’s easy to criticize Turkey but it’s ironic to see that there are similar issues in The United States.

Hypocrisy is such a strong word

The first three words that came to mind when I used to think about Turkey were Muslim, conservative, and dictator. During my time here, all three words have been challenged and found to be, for the most part, absolutely false. All three have had a place in Turkish society at one point, true. All three are occasionally a part of current Turkish society, true. But the extent at which people think they are present is incredibly distorted.

During a guest lecture today, the concept of secularism was addressed numerous times. The short and short of it is Turkey, like many countries, has struggled with the separation of church and state for years. There are currently parties for and against the continued secularism Turkey now embraces and the possibility that the country could shift towards an Islamic rule. While some of this was over my head, something that was brought up definitely got me thinking.

People in the United States stereotype Turkey and other Middle Eastern regions as fanatical Islamic states. They are quick to assume that religion is the central focus of all governments and, from everything I’ve seen and heard, that’s simply not the case. In fact, at this point in time, I would consider Turkey to be more secular than the United States. Obviously this is not an in-depth opinion and based only on what I currently know, so I could certainly be misguided in asserting this. But, all things considered, it is definitely something to ponder.

The elected president always comes from an accepted religion. I cannot think of a time when an Atheist, Buddhist, or Wiccan ran for office and was even somewhat well-received. The pledge of allegiance addresses “one nation under God”, the national anthem stems from a poem containing the lines “May the heav'n rescued land/ Praise the Power that hath made and preserved us a nation/…and this be our motto: “In God is our trust’”, and our currency states “In God we trust”. Like it or not, the United States was built on religious principles and has maintained them. As a country, we struggle to truly separate church from state, but hold fast to our secular label.

mmm, food

Before leaving on my trip, my friends talked me into hosting a dinner of Turkish food when I get back. I doubt I'll be able to pull off meals as good as what I've had here, but so far this is what I'm thinking.

To start:

• Bread. Lots and lots of white bread.
• Yogurt and spinach to dip it in (or, possible, cucumber and yogurt)
• Some sort of eggplant and tomato cold salad
  
• If I'm feeling ambitious (or can find them in the store...), some stuffed grape leaves
• Turkish tea

Main meal:

• Salad of lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber and olives with olive oil and lemon juice for dressing
  
• Kebabs cooked over coal, probably chicken because I have no idea how to make lamb
  
• Fries (no skins!) with ketchup and mayo
  
• Raki for the drinkers, ayran for the rest. If they don't want either of those, I'll charge them for water.
  

Dessert:

• Turkish coffee and I will pretend to I know how to read their fortunes from the grounds
• The most delicious watermelon, strawberries and honeydew I can find

If that all gets too complicated, I'll just give up and make potatoes -




The key to recreating a Turkish meal is not so much copying the individual flavors, but the ambiance. Everyone who comes over will be signing up for at least 3 or 4 hours of dwindling over plates of food and raki. Perhaps we'll eat on the patio, but getting eaten alive by bugs in Kansas isn't quite the same as the wonderful cafes where shade and a gentle breeze bring the temperature from unbearably hot to perfect.

One thing that I won't be able to show them is the fun of dancing and shaking a tambourine to traditional Turkish music like we did here in Istanbul, but I think we'll have a good time.

Don't Judge The Book Til You've Read It

When I imagined Turkey, I'm pretty sure I was thinking a modern Iraq. Women in burkas, men in long robes (some with turbans), outrageous poverty, and really weird local foods. Boy was I wrong. Not only are men and women extremely fashionable (even if some heads are covered), but the food is all delicious! I have a new affinity for tomatoes and lamb of all kinds. And when it comes to poverty, I have learned that the Turkish hospitality extends to them too. The women on the streets cradling their children and extending a plastic cup with a bowed head uttering incoherent pleas, for the most part, have friends or family to offer them a roof or a warm meal. Poverty may be a problem as it is anywhere in the world, but homelessness is surprisingly not. I love that everyone is so helpful. For instance, in the airport on the way to a weekend getaway in Kas, we asked a woman behind the counter at check-in where the nearest place was to buy food and we got a wonderful response. She did not just grunt and point or shrug and say "over there" as someone might in the states, but she actually climbed over the luggage conveyer and personally led us to a little bakery. It was so sweet.

Another thing I didn't anticipate was the drastic change of landscapes. Our "vacation" in Kas was fantastic. It is a quaint little hidden oasis along the Mediterranean that is yet to be discovered by many tourists. We had our time on a boat and laying lazily by the water basking in the sun, but we also had the opportunity to experience some sporty endeavors. The group went canyoning through Saklikant Gorge and got chest deep in mud and a few rapids. It was a crazy experience that I never would have thought to do, especially in the states. The next day we went kayaking over a sunken city along the Sea that had been destroyed by a series of earthquakes back in the day. The only encounter I have had with a kayak was at summer camp when I was thirteen and it was on quite a calm lake. So this was a bit of a challenge for me. It was an intense five miles on the water and I conquered it like a champ. I did reward myself with some homemade peach ice cream though.

This entire trip in Turkey has been a total change from everything I'm used to. It is incomparable to any other traveling I have done in the past. I have done things I didn't expect to ever do, and have seen things I didn't expect to ever see. So far... so good...

The Past and the Present

Turkey is such an amazing place. Its been growing on me since we stepped off the plane, instead of going back to the hotel at night we have all started to say we are going “home”! Getting around isn’t scary and it feels comfortable here. Even if the group separates we always meet in Taksim square at the Ataturk statue. The Ataturk statue is an interesting place for us to meet. Coming here I didn’t realize how much on an impact Ataturk had on the Turkish people, and although I will never fully understand I have come to appreciate it and enjoy to see how strongly the Turks feel about him.

It is difficult to imagine Turkey as a place with strict Islamic rule, Arabic scrip, Sultans, and the all of the thing that were before Ataturk. For me, Istanbul is a city with a stylish culture. You see these people walking on the street looking like runway models. They are wearing the latest European fashion and it’s rare to see a woman dressed head to toe in a burka, even the women who chose to wear the headscarf are still very fashionable. It’s only after you take a closer look and see that the remnants of the Ottomans are still deeply embedded. The call to prayer will sound and then you will remember that you are not in London, Madrid or Paris.


The reason Turkey is so interesting to me, is because it’s so different from those classic old cities that people think of when they speak of Europe. It’s different in a good way, you can have the best of both worlds. I see the Europe chic and style but I also see the old world customs that keep this country special. There is something so magical about walking through the Sultans old palace and realizing that one of the largest ruling empires centered around this city. I love Turkey, and I have really really enjoyed being here in Istanbul. I’m so happy that I have gotten to get a glimpse of the Muslim world that most non-Muslims are frightened of because of long rooted stereotypes. There is and has always been good and bad in the world, Istanbul has seen both of these things from its incredibly long history. Now after all the work that one man did it has become a place that people (who have never been here before) are starting to realize isn’t scary! It’s beautiful, and the past and present have helped to make it that way.

East versus West in the Food Court

Yesterday our group paid a visit to our first shopping mall since arriving in Turkey. It was our first visit to a new and non-traditional shopping location in Istanbul as well. The shopping mall seems like such an inherently western concept that it they don't seem to vary too drastically from country to country. Like everything in Turkey that's been imported from abroad, it's been given a Turkish flavor, but even that seemed muted among the chic Italian, French, and British designer stores, as well as the food courts dotted with familiar fast food franchises.

I'm still not sure how I feel about the new western style shopping malls popping up around Istanbul. Personally, I don't really care for shopping malls in the United States for various reason, most of them directly related to the fact that I'm an American male. But I will admit that the shopping mall environment offered a break from the overwhelming environment of the Grand Bazaar, where you're surrounded by mobs of other shoppers and aggressive merchants trying to squeeze as much Lira out of your pockets as possible. Even I caved in and purchased a trendy designer t-shirt. So it wasn't entirely bad, it wasn't entirely Turkish either, but I could appreciate it for what it was.

But another part of me wants the Turkish people to resist the adoption of things that are so non-traditional and non-Turkish. The conflict between modern and traditional, between East and West is a common theme that you see everywhere in Turkey. Looking back through its history, this confrontation occurs again and again. Even the Ottoman Empire's eventual demise is an example of what can happen when an empire and society fall behind the rest of the world in terms of industry, technology, and new ideas. And the Ottoman Empire did try to catch up to the rest of the world, but it was too late, even for an empire that has ruled for six centuries. It seems that the modern nation of Turkey is trying to prevent a similar fate from repeating itself. By blending Eastern and Western traditions and ideas Turkey won't repeat the mistakes of history.

However, the tensions aren't far from the surface. The police check points one must pass through before entering the mall parking lot are clear examples of potential backlash against western culture. Even so, in a place as old as Turkey, with such a rich history, it seems that these problems are never new or original. Turkey has been the bridge between East and West since humans first inhabited the Anatolian peninsula. And that's what makes Turkey such a fascinating place to those looking at it from the outside. Even shopping malls, which seem to represent the most materialistic and capitalistic aspects of western culture showcase this mixing of worlds. You don't normally find women wearing headscarves picking through racks of designer clothing imported from Europe in the United States or in many other places in the world.

Who Am I?

Today we went to Istanbul Modern and took a boat tour on the Bosphorus, which don't sound like related activities, but actually facilitate the same sort of discussion. The art displayed in the museum expresses all sorts of things, but common to much of it was the question of identity- Turkish artists are asking "Who am I? What is Turkey? Where do we fit?" And being on the Bosphorus puts you quite literally in between two massive forces, Europe and Asia, causing you to ask yet again where Turkey fits.
The country seems to be at a crossroads in so many ways- geographically, culturally, linguistically, politically, artistically. The progression of modern art alone shows this. The earlier paintings were very European; obviously the artists had studied in France or somewhere similar and strived to copy the same sort of style. As you move through the museum the pieces change. The artists begin questioning the classical styles they had learned from the Europeans and started deconstructing. Some of the pieces were an outright, straighforward question of "what is Turkey?" Others were a little more subtle, but had the same feeling of inquiry or uncertainty.



It all leaves me wondering how any group of people ever get together and manage to form a working, cohesive state. People are so varied, so changeable, so prone to identity crises, that I no longer have any idea how state-building happens. Ataturk, the self-proclaimed Father of the Turks and architect of the Turkish state, must have had one hell of a time bringing millions of very different people together to form a country out of the ruins of the Ottoman Empire. No wonder he died of cirrhosis at such a young age- I would be a heavy drinker too if I had taken on his responsibility.



Perceived identity crisis aside, I do believe in the viability of Turkey as a state. Some have stated their doubts in the past, but being here only proves that Turkey isn't going anywhere and is absolutely a cultural force to contend with. It's just happening in a way that no one else has experienced before.

Art is art. Except, of course, when it is art.

We went to the Istanbul Modern Art Museum and I couldn't help but compare it to the many art museums I've been to in the United States. Specifically, the MOMA,or Museum of Modern Art in New York City. While art is always subjective and each piece is unique, I get used to seeing the same imagery, themes, and overall messages. Landscapes are generally recognizable and styles are repeated. Walking through the Istanbul museum, I was surprised at both the differences and similarities I found.

Obviously, the landscapes were different. In place of farm animals, colonial structures, and traditional "urban" settings were mosques, differently-constructed people, and rows of colored apartments and buildings. The videos were especially different - videos in the museums I've visited generally address industrialization, geometry, and politics. There were some like this but quite a few that were, well, over my head. Mouths without faces, a woman decorating her apartment with her own lip prints, and a slumbering clown, just to name a few.

I found similarities in political issues, the evolution from traditional to abstract, and the embrace of the absurd. There was an obvious rebellion against tradition and the government and this was shown in pieces using bold colors and boundary-pushing images (much like in the United States). Industrialization and construction was also addressed; in a video from Taksim Square, a family ate in an apartment dining room while the building next to them was torn down.

While many countries embraced Western art, Turks managed to create their own unique and artistic scene. Art will always address similar issues because people are almost always facing similar struggles in society and their personal lives, but it is up to a culture to hone their own style, which the Turks definitely did.

False Assumptions

When I signed up to study in Turkey, I was not expecting to end up like this-



Soaked in muddy water with scraped knees, and nursing a sore foot from walking barefoot until finding someone's lost shoe to finish the end of the trek. A hike through Saklikent Gorge is definitely not what first comes to mind when you think of Turkey.

When I told people I was going to Turkey, a common reaction was "Why would you want to go there? They [insert some terrible characteristic]." So I think it's time to clear up some misconceptions that my friends and family have about Turkey.

"You're going to have to wear a burka, and they don't let women in public.
We have had more interactions with Turkish men than women, but I think that is more due to primarily men working in hotels, shops and restaurants where we've spent the most of our time. I've seen head-to-toe burkas - the black gowns where only the eyes show - once in my two weeks in Turkey, and it might have been a group of tourists. Head scarves are common, but not the norm, especially with younger women. Even women who cover completely find a way to do it fashionable, to the point that I would really love to own some of their clothes. I think Turkey has pushed the division of state and religion a bit too far, actually, since students aren't able to wear scarves to state universities.


"You're going to be killed by terrorists because Turkey borders Iraq."
Yeah, the countries share a border, but the distance from Istanbul to Baghdad is about the same as the distance from my house in Prairie Village to the drug wars happening in Mexico. I'm not scared.

Istanbul is a city of 12+ million people. Crime happens. I'm not going to wander down dark alleys alone or leave lira hanging out of my pocket, but terrorists? Not so much. Even with all the hubbub with Israel, I've only seen a handful of graffiti or signs expressing outrage. When we asked at the synagogue, the man giving us a tour said he hasn't experienced any sort of animosity. It seems like everyone is busy going about their day and pretty committed to get along.

"You're going to get spit on, because they all hate Americans."
I've seen opinion pulls showing that 70% of Turks disapprove of Americans, but I have yet to experience anything but hospitality from the people I've met. Every time I've traveled, I've gone home and said the people were amazing, but I feel like Turkey is in a league of its own. Our tour guides feel more like rent-a-friends than guides. Each one has gone above and beyond - offering to take us out on the town, giving us watermelon, walking us to our bus terminal, inviting us out for drinks, friending us on Facebook, etc.

Everyone is so hospitable that I actually find it difficult to navigate. At what point am I being rude turning down offers? Or, conversely, when am I taking advantage of their kindness? When we prodded one our friends for why he was doing so much for us, he said he wanted us to know what Turkish people were really like, not the stereotypes of the Middle East, so that people could know how great Turkey is. It's working.

Living The Life!

Istanbul is wonderful, amazing, and fun. Yet, Kusadasi and Kas are my kind of vacation places. Some things were very similar- the Turks gracious attitudes, the beautiful unique shops and of course the delicious food/ but other things were slightly different, PALM TREES!
Kusadasi was so relaxing. Ephesus was breath taking and a visitor like me could really get a feel for the history in Turkey.



Although I do appreciate the history of the southern coast the fun aspect was amazing! Boating for a day on the Aegean Sea was a memory I’ll never forget in Kusadas. Kayaking in the Mediterranean was quite a workout but still priceless and so natural in Kas.





From these experiences and all the others it is very clear to me that the Turks definitely know how to enjoy themselves. Basking in the sun at he beach in Kas, while I took a sip out of my Fanta and decided that without a doubt this is “the life’! I look around and see other beach goers’ sipping tea and coffee (which I always though was strange in 90 degree weather) and taking drags off of their little Turkish cigarettes. The atmosphere is peaceful and there doesn’t seem to be a care in the world.



Although I’ve been here for two weeks now the Turks always surprise me in the best ways. Looking back at my expectations coming to Turkey I was so nervous that these people I was about to be surrounded with would be harsh or so extremely different from me. Truth is, the Turkish people are different- they are so different I was surprised but in a very good way! Instead of feeling the hustle and rush of the states Turkey is a country were you can really unwind and relax. Sure the streets of Istiklal are packed but even that rush is passive because the second you reach your destination you’re at ease. Since being here I find myself wondering why the North Americans can’t take a page out of the Turkish book and live a life of pleasure, compassion and relaxation. Now- don’t get me wrong, the Turks are very hard workers. But they care about what they do and put thought into it. You can see there is a very clear sense of pride in them and that is something I’m very envious of.

I Am Marty McFly

I’ve decided I need a time machine. Or I need to be friends with someone who is good with cars to rig up a Delorean for me and send me a few thousand years back. I wish this because I went to Ephesus. I have been to many other sites of ruins where historic relics have been uncovered and marked with inlaid plaques with their eloquent Latin name and a non-descript English translation, but none quite as relatively preserved as this haven of an ancient city.

I totally should have been an Archeology major because I find ruins completely fascinating. I paint this vivid image in my head of how people actually went about their day-to-day activities in these towns. How people socialized and bartered and engineered these fascinating structures in the first place. I am still amazed by the Roman people and how brilliant they were. They created so many little trinket inventions, designed the aqueduct and sewage systems, laid out a harbor city, and knew the planet was round. They were also able to conquer a number of peoples, including the Ephesians in Ephesus.

Walking through this incredibly unique place just inspired a number of random questions. I wanted to know everything. I wanted to be let loose to explore everything and build up this image of Ephesian life in my head. I love this place, not just because of the meaningful biblical significance, but because I can let my imagination run wild unlike in Istanbul. Don’t get me wrong, Istanbul is an amazing city, but it doesn’t leave much room for creativity. It basically just lays thing out for you on a tangible timeline with some pretty sweet graphics. Istanbul’s ancient city has been covered over by tall shopping malls and movie theaters while Ephesus provides the bare bones “this is how it was” feel. I am excited to return to the big city, but I absolutely loved the experience of Ephesus.

Here's the Other Side...

Just when I started to feel like I was getting my bearings in Istanbul, off we go to the south along the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas. Our time in the south of Turkey could not be more different from our time in Istanbul. It's hotter and feels little more touristy because Kusadasi is a port town where cruise ships stop. Probably Istanbul has more tourists, but these places just feel like they have more. All the Turkish words I've been learning (okay, the 6 Turkish words) weren't needed a all in Kusadasi. Everyone spoke English and if you just asked for water in Turkish people would get really excited and praise your language skills. That felt pretty great to be told we were speaking Turkish well, but in reality we just looked good by comparison- no one else was even trying.

It felt nice to get out of the city and lay on the beach, ride some horses, relax on a boat, hike, ad kayak. I'm not the most urban person in the world, so being outdoors doing fun activities was right up my alley. I loved every minute of hiking through the canyon (Saklikent) and kayaking in the Mediterranean. The kayaking at first seemed difficult because I had never done it before and there were way more people in the group than we were used to, but truthfully we've been spoiled on this trip with no tourist groups and this was fine. Once we were out on the water, it didn't matter that there dozens of other tourists around- it was easy to break off a little from the group and just relish the fact that, yes, I am actually kayaking off the coast of Turkey on a beautiful day.

There are two constants I've experienced between Istanbul and our excursion to the south- I have that "Oh, wow, I'm really here" moment multiple times every day, and the people we meet are unfailingly generous and helpful. It's not hard to love your life when you're in Turkey.

An Open Secret

The differences between Istanbul and the coastal towns of Kusadasi and Kas were immediately apparent on arrival. Obviously differences are to be expected between a huge metropolis and two sleepy resort towns. The climate changed, as well as the people. Kusadasi and Kas are reliant on the money the tourism industry brings in, whereas in Istanbul tourism makes up a small part of a much more vibrant and thriving economy. Even though they are resort towns and geared towards a more international crowd, there are significant cultural aspects to these towns and the surrounding areas that makes them more than just an affordable destination for Europeans on holiday.

Our visit to Kusadasi included a tour of Ephesus, the ruins of a major Greek and Roman town on what used to be the Aegean coast of Turkey. The ruins of Ephesus were impressive in they're scale and the amount of preservation that they had benefited from. They also showed a historical side of Turkey that's relatively unknown outside of the country. If one were to ask the average North American or European about the history Turkey, it is probably unlikely that they would mention the significance of Asian Minor to the Greek and Roman civilizations.

Our brief time in Kusadasi didn't allow for much of an exploration of the town. And the attraction of the rocky beaches of the Aegean Sea proved hard to resist. I would make the argument that the richness of Turkey's history and culture are essentially a secret to most Westerners. And if that's the case, Kusadasi seems very much like an open secret. Throngs of European tourists filled beaches and boats of the harbor and laid out to sunbathe in the strong Mediterranean sun. Still, before I decided to participate in this study abroad program I had never heard of Kusadasi or Ephesus. And American tourists are a significant minority among those visiting these places. So Kusadasi still feels relatively unknown to me despite the popularity of the small harbor town as a destination.

If Kusadasi is an open secret, Kas is totally unknown. Tourists do make the journey, but these are the more adventurous and thrill seeking types, as opposed to those who simply want to spend a lazy week on a boat cruising around the Aegean Sea. The town of Kas is sandwiched against the Mediterranean Sea by coastal mountains, which makes for spectacular scenery. The town itself is full of small shops and restaurants, many of whom are geared towards the tourists. But in Kas it's still possible to pass by bar or cafe serving young, trendy Turks as they sip their coffee and tea, almost similar to Istanbul except on much smaller sclae.

Of course the status of Kas as a sleepy town still seen as somewhat of a sanctuary from the usual cruise line crowds might change soon. Turkey is becoming increasingly plugged into the world and the secrets of Turkey's past and present are rapidly being discovered by all of those who find themselves there. If Turkey's desire to join the European Union is achieved then this process may be sped up even more rapidly. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it does make me appreciate the feeling of discovery I get when wandering around these small coastal communities even more, before they become well known and well traveled destinations.

We've Been Spoiled

I hate tourists. I know, I know, I am a tourist, and at times, I certainly act like one. But I absolutely, positively, cannot stand the groups of people who congregate at the most unfortunate places, show little to no consideration for the country they're in, and move and speak with an unearned sense of entitlement.

This rant is brought on by a terrible kayaking experience. The kayaking itself, while not my cup of tea, was a good time. The 30+ tourists who continually ran into me, walked into me, and were generally rude all day - was not a good time.

We have been spoiled with private guides, a small group, and a wonderful instructor who knows Turkey like the back of her hand. We don't frequent tourist-inhabited cafes and often managed to escape them in the museums and such. Having been so lucky and spoiled, I forgot how absolutely obnoxious tourists are.

I'm rather conflicted about tourism and Turkey. While part of me wants to shout from the mountains how fantastic Turkey is, the other part of me wants to keep it the secret it seems to be, at least in the United States. If they find out how wonderful Turkey is, they will inevitably come, fanny packs and straw hats in hand.

The Turks are incredibly hospitable and genuinely curious about Americans. I feel like if they get to know too many more of us, however, that generosity will start to fade. The "Ugly American" will surely rear it's sunburned head and they will realize, like I have, how draining tourists can be.

Of course, this is simply my pessimistic opinion. Kas is an incredibly tourist-friendly town and, without them, might not thrive like it does. I certainly don't wish that on anyone. I suppose there's a fine line between tourist-friendly and tourist-overrun, and I just don't want to see Turkey cross it. It's just too perfect the way it is.

Hand made

Turkey is indulging my love of handmade things. Everywhere you look there are beautiful hand-knotted rugs or gorgeous tiles. The skills used to make these things have been handed down for centuries, and while the styles change over time, traditional patterns are common.

On our way to the airport from Kusadasi, we stopped by Ephesus Tile to check them out.


Master potter throwing a pot

The man off-screen on the video is explaining a bit about the pottery as the potter makes a pot. They use white clay to create the form. After drying for a couple days, they fire it in the kiln. Then the artists will paint the design on the pottery and then fill them in with color. They add a layer of glaze and fire the ceramics again. That layer of gloss protects the colors and they last for centuries, like those used at the mosques.


The dome of the Blue Mosque

I loved all the ceramics and knew a plate or tile would be the perfect keepsake for my visit to Turkey. I had thought I wanted to get a traditional design, the Tree of Life, but Ephesus had some beautiful unique designs that were inspired from the traditional designs.

I finally settled on this gorgeous plate. It's tulips, which is an important flower to Turkey. The flower originated in the country, and the name in reverse spells 'Allah'. The guy selling me the bowl said they were symbols of love, too. Whatever the added significance, I love this plate. I'm so excited to own it.

Get a Guide

I'm the kind of person who likes to do things on their own, and I'd really like to think that I can go to a totally new country and figure it out without any help. Trying to do that in Turkey would be a massive mistake. Sure, I could find my way to the regular tourist sites, like the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque; I could have a great time and go home with unforgettable experiences. But without someone who really knows the place and the culture, it just wouldn't be the same. I never would have learned about telling fortunes from the grounds left over in Turkish coffee- how the shapes closest to the handle deal with the home and the shapes in the very middle of the saucer are for matters of the heart. I never would have known about the blue evil eye stones used in every home, car, and outfit to absorb negative energy. I wouldn't know that Turks don't eat potato skins, have ice, or sit in front of drafts. And I definitely wouldn't be able to bargain something down in the Grand Bazaar. You really need someone to take you to a cool, out of the way cafe and just talk about all the things you won't find in a guide book. The little facts about everyday life and the stories are what make this study abroad experience really special.
Being introduced to local Turkish people and having them show us around is so beyond helpful, which seems to be a word I use a lot here. Everyone I meet wants to help me find my way, tell me about the local history, give me some tea. They all have tips about how to get around the city or bargain in the Grand Bazaar. They may even introduce you to yet another person who can help you with yet another thing. And even though I don't speak Turkish, trying out a few words seems to be enough. I thought navigating the city would be difficult at best and the language barrier would completely hamper my ability to do anything. I'm happy to say I was totally wrong. However, there is a downside to all the helpful/bilingual population- they make me feel guilty for not speaking more languages or offering to help them in some way. It makes me want to be a better person when I get home by helping people and inviting new acquaintances in for tea and a snack.

Religion and Resilience

The Ottoman Empire continually portrayed itself as an empire who ruled over three continents. At the height of the Ottoman period of rule their empire controlled vast swaths of Europe, Asia, Africa. The motif of three dots or circles representing these continents is seen in Ottoman crests, clothing, armor, jewelry, and many other forms of art. The capital of the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul, could also be represented by a similar motif. All three of the major monotheistic religions, Christianity, Islam, and Judaism are represented in Istanbul. And all three have had major impacts on the history of Istanbul and Turkey as a whole.

All three of these religions can be found throughout Turkey, however they all converge on the cultural capital of the country, Istanbul. Christianity and Islam have left their indelible marks on the cityscape of Istanbul. The Hagia Sophia and the Sultan Ahmed Mosque are just as grand in their architecture as they are in their significance to the history of Istanbul. Other churches and mosques dot the map of Istanbul every few blocks, each one having their own story of origin, construction, and sometimes destruction. Some of these structures of are technically impressive, their engineering feats having never truly been outdone even after thousands of years. However, some of the smaller, less visited sites can have an even stronger, more lasting impression. The experience of visiting a mosque or church is best felt when there aren't flocks of tourists and shouting guides flowing into the entrance and out the exit. The quietness and intimacy of the smaller sites seem to fit the serenity of their teachings and beliefs much more closely

The story of Christianity and Islam in Istanbul is something that I was at least vaguely familiar with before I visited Turkey. But the history of Judaism was something totally unknown to me before I made the decision to visit Istanbul. The Jewish Museum of Turkey was especially interesting, among other things it documented the contributions to Turkey's government and culture by Turkish Jews, as well as the many Jews who took refuge in Turkey to escape the Holocaust of World War II. The Neve Shalom Synagogue, while not as architecturally impressive as other sites of Istanbul, seemed to hold just as much weight as those other attractions. Just getting inside of the synagogue was a bit of a challenge given the extra layers of security installed at the entrance. It served as a sobering reminder that despite the relative peacefulness of Istanbul, violence from extremists can resurface easily.

Thankfully, the tranquility that all religious sites enjoy was not disturbed by these measures inside Neve Shalom. The Neve Shalom Synagogue and the Jewish Museum of Turkey displayed resilience in the face of oppression, but also showed that the Jewish people of Turkey had contributed to the development of the modern Turkish state just as much as Muslims and Christians of Turkey had.

Just Say Thank You

Merhaba! Cay? Hello, would I like any tea? Well, yes, indeed I would, thank you. This seems like a very common phrase to hear while walking the streets of Istanbul. The hospitable mindset of the locals is mind blowing. I feel like no one in America in their “right mind” would ever invite strangers into their home for a cup of coffee, especially the foreigners. I would completely agree that offering a total stranger to sip from your favorite china cup, scuff up your rug, and use your facilities, let alone talking to them in the first place, would have been a terrible idea, but I have changed my tune. Turks have the mindset that everyone is their friend and all newcomers are guests that should be welcomed with open arms. It’s not always a case of someone wanting to sell you a knockoff Gucci purse in a back alley that someone will approach you, but more so that they can tell you are from America and they want to see what’s up. They want to know you’re life story and why you have traveled to their homeland and what you are studying in school and how old you are and where you are from and if my mother would like a son-in-law. So many questions! As annoying as it may be at times, I think the Turks sincerely mean their compliments and are honestly interested.

An example of this hospitality came to me when I bought a nargile pipe in a shop among shops at the Grand Bazaar. Our group has made a few local friends and they showed us around a bit, so I was taken to a friend of a friend’s little business there. He offered every one of us tea and coffee and a full display of water pipes and lanterns to boot. He kept repeating, “You must understand, I make you good deal anyway because you are pretty, but because my uncle is friends with his dad, it is more than business.” He also threw in the fact that his coals were not very good, and I should buy more (at least he was honest). Not only did I appreciate that I was getting a deal, but more so that this young guy was so committed to his social ties.

I had many people ask me before this trip if it would be safe for me to travel here. After being in the city more than a week, I can safely say, that besides the occasional pickpocket, I am quite comfortable wandering the streets of Istanbul. Not only is everyone nice enough to offer you tea and directions to whatever you are wanting to go, but every male in the vicinity will catch you if you trip, and if they are your friends, they will be upset if another man looks at you wrong. J