Wednesday, June 16, 2010

An Open Secret

The differences between Istanbul and the coastal towns of Kusadasi and Kas were immediately apparent on arrival. Obviously differences are to be expected between a huge metropolis and two sleepy resort towns. The climate changed, as well as the people. Kusadasi and Kas are reliant on the money the tourism industry brings in, whereas in Istanbul tourism makes up a small part of a much more vibrant and thriving economy. Even though they are resort towns and geared towards a more international crowd, there are significant cultural aspects to these towns and the surrounding areas that makes them more than just an affordable destination for Europeans on holiday.

Our visit to Kusadasi included a tour of Ephesus, the ruins of a major Greek and Roman town on what used to be the Aegean coast of Turkey. The ruins of Ephesus were impressive in they're scale and the amount of preservation that they had benefited from. They also showed a historical side of Turkey that's relatively unknown outside of the country. If one were to ask the average North American or European about the history Turkey, it is probably unlikely that they would mention the significance of Asian Minor to the Greek and Roman civilizations.

Our brief time in Kusadasi didn't allow for much of an exploration of the town. And the attraction of the rocky beaches of the Aegean Sea proved hard to resist. I would make the argument that the richness of Turkey's history and culture are essentially a secret to most Westerners. And if that's the case, Kusadasi seems very much like an open secret. Throngs of European tourists filled beaches and boats of the harbor and laid out to sunbathe in the strong Mediterranean sun. Still, before I decided to participate in this study abroad program I had never heard of Kusadasi or Ephesus. And American tourists are a significant minority among those visiting these places. So Kusadasi still feels relatively unknown to me despite the popularity of the small harbor town as a destination.

If Kusadasi is an open secret, Kas is totally unknown. Tourists do make the journey, but these are the more adventurous and thrill seeking types, as opposed to those who simply want to spend a lazy week on a boat cruising around the Aegean Sea. The town of Kas is sandwiched against the Mediterranean Sea by coastal mountains, which makes for spectacular scenery. The town itself is full of small shops and restaurants, many of whom are geared towards the tourists. But in Kas it's still possible to pass by bar or cafe serving young, trendy Turks as they sip their coffee and tea, almost similar to Istanbul except on much smaller sclae.

Of course the status of Kas as a sleepy town still seen as somewhat of a sanctuary from the usual cruise line crowds might change soon. Turkey is becoming increasingly plugged into the world and the secrets of Turkey's past and present are rapidly being discovered by all of those who find themselves there. If Turkey's desire to join the European Union is achieved then this process may be sped up even more rapidly. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it does make me appreciate the feeling of discovery I get when wandering around these small coastal communities even more, before they become well known and well traveled destinations.

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