In Search of an Identity

The first KU study abroad Istanbul is over, and I sit here drinking my morning coffee from my Nazare coffee mug purchased at the Galata Tower. I am in the same spot as when I wrote my blog on expectations for the trip. I am sad that it has passed by so quickly, but it has given me the memories that I had hoped for. As I reflect on the numerous experiences our class enjoyed in a short period of time, it is hard to fully describe all that we have learned about Turkey. Turkey is a unique country that is working hard to find its identity in areas such as, woman’s issues, government structure, military, religion, national pride, and world attention. Turkey’s identity will affect the country’s ability for economic stability, world influence, and its future. Had I been able to stay longer, I would have spent time talking with the local people. I would like to know what direction they believe is best for Turkey, and how they think their government can accomplish these goals.
At first glance the governmental structure of Turkey appears fully democratic. It is not. Although there is a Parliament, governmental institutions like the National Security Council detract much of the Parliamentary power. The National Security Council was formed from the state’s constitution, and it provides the military with great power. As the influence of the NSC in Turkey has spread, it has become possible for the council to entirely replace the cabinet as the center of real power and decision-making (Zurcher 2005: 245). This power given to the military will not easily be taken away. It has come to be something that Turkish people accept. Traditionally, they see the military control as being in their best interest, and believe that it maintains the order in society. The military is also a supporter of the secular society that exists, and some feel it is the only reassurance that secular society will continue. The power that has been given to the military in Turkey has led to a bias. Students who are able to attend military school receive better education and are awarded better jobs than regular public education can afford. This bias allows the military to keep its power in Turkey and its prestige, because the level of education often exceeds the education levels of government officials and politicians. It is not uncommon for the members of the military to feel that the parliamentary members are “idiots” and undereducated, therefore, they believe that they are able to ignore the laws passed. One member is quoted saying, “those people in Parliament are idiots! They don’t know anything about government or Turkey or the world. How can anyone expect us to take orders from people like that? Turkey would never forgive us if we did” (Kinzer 2003: 20). Public education must eventually match the quality of education that can be obtained at a military school in Turkey in order for the bias to end and the military to relinquish some of its power. Since the fall of the Ottoman Empire the Turkish people have relied on their military to protect them. They will need to find faith in the abilities of Parliament and elected officials in order to leave behind military dominance.
In order for Turkey to move toward a Western political identity it must leave the concept of devlet behind. The word itself means “state”, but the concept is supposed to be understood by all Turks to mean that the political elite are superior in their knowledge of what is best for the country. Most importantly this notion of national guidance is known for its intolerance of freethinking Turkish citizens. The focal point of Turkish unity organized under devlet would be threatened if freethinking were to be legal in the country. There are numerous ways in which this ideal disables freethinking Turkish people. First, it creates a false cohesion and national identity among the citizens. Historically, the people of Turkey have not made political decisions and seen their will carried out by state leaders; therefore, the natural instinct is to believe that the state is acting in their best interest and that it must know better than they. Further, open criticism of military and state is not legal so there must be an element of fear in society to openly discuss and criticize the political decisions. This would lead to an environment where political decisions are accepted and followed by the population of Turkish citizens whether or not they agreed with the state. Develt was intended by the Turkish state to bind the people together (Kinzer 2003: 26). The notion of Devlet is forced and does not create positive outcomes in society. Turkish people have a strong sense of national identity without needing devlet to guide them. Turkish identity is determined by Turks, and it is a tough club to be accepted into. There are different ways to automatically be considered a Turk. People in the country see all Muslims as Turks regardless of ethnicity or language, and non-Muslims are not considered to be Turkish, even when they speak Turkish (Cagaptay 2006: 1). It is a surprise to me in a secular society that this classification exists.
National identity is just as unique in Turkey as all of the other cultural attributes. While we traveled through Istanbul and into the coastal area there was a prominent display of the Turkish flag. I was excited in the beginning to see this and thought that the people of Turkey were displaying the flag out of national pride. This conclusion was easy to come by because in the relatively short independent history of the country they are extremely proud of the republic that Ataturk created and left for his people. Then I read of the idea of Devlet, and was I disappointed in thinking that this display must be an unspoken social requirement in order to show your commitment to the state. Maybe if you do not display national pride you can be subjected to social consequences? “They feel no true allegiance to national goals and aspirations” (Kinzer 2003: 26). As time passed and I experienced more of Turkish culture I came to my own conclusion. Turkish identity is as much of a contradiction as any other societal element! It is all about the state, and it is about the people, and together, combined with history, family, cuisine, music, politics, religion, it is both. The Turkish people are learning to be proud. They are learning to enjoy public space and be active in the government. They are learning to talk about issues that affect them and what they may do to influence the situation. In experiencing Turkey for myself, I am not ready to take the words of Stephen Kinzer at face value. I could see the Turkish pride and national identity, and actually, I was immersed in it! It was a very traditional and very common Turkish gathering that included Turkish music, dinner, and dancing. The experience took all of the elements of Turkish society, past and present, and blended them into one. The display of song and dance was a true display of Turkish national identity and pride. Although I was not able to understand what the songs were about, each and every Turk in the room did. They were not only familiar with the songs, but sang them word for word! First there was clapping, then singing a little louder, and finally the room erupted in loud animated singing and dancing. How many years has this tradition gone on? I am not sure of the answer to this question. I attempted some research on Turkish celebration and found two websites that looked promising. I had to laugh when I found them inaccessible due to Turkish law. Maybe the Turks do not wish to share their celebration secrets! Reflecting on the Turkish Saturday night, I can’t help but think that there answers to be found in the way the Turks come together. I believe it is another way Turkey is unique in celebrating their national identity, and proof that national identity and unity is not found in devlet.
Not only as a nation, but individually Turkish people are trying to find their identities. The women in Turkey are a good example. A Western misconception is that Muslim women are oppressed. This is not true and is an unfair stereotype, but I believe that Turkey can be the nation that sets the world straight. Muslim women in some parts of the world are oppressed, but the religion’s reputation can be redeemed when Turkey illustrates the modern Muslim woman to the world. The traditional role of Muslim women is rooted in the family structure. Patriarchy defines the traditional Muslim family. Out of all of the ways in which I found Turkey to be very modern and many times western, I learned that the family unit still holds the highest priority in Muslim life. “Whether because of their nomadic past in Central Asia or as a response to their centuries of life under autocratic rule, many Turks still believe that life is to be lived within the family or clan” (Kinzer 2003: 26). Like all Muslim countries, the social structure in Turkey is based on a patriarchal society, but it has undergone some changes toward modernity. “Some of the most extensive studies on changes in household or family types and the impact of economic changes on women’s status have been undertaken in Turkey” (Moghadam 2004:144) The new role of women in Turkey is setting the pace for the region and women are more frequently working and engaging in all sorts of activities. Some women in Turkey are able to vocalize their feelings of the need to break from the moralizing definition of woman in Islam by referring to western feminism. They use these principles to explain how the traditional female role is only in place to “reassure the Muslim man of his identity” (Gole 2000: 100).
Turkey has been able to maintain cultural identity and tradition while going through the process of modernization. The Muslim women in Turkey are able to consult family members for decision-making, but make all decisions legally on their own. Everywhere except Turkey, in the Middle East and North Africa, religious law is elevated to civil status (Moghadam 2004: 147). Although the society is steeped in tradition, Turkish women have every opportunity to work, study, travel, and express themselves, save answering to the parents, and let’s face it there is no Western woman that escapes that either! The dichotomy is fascinating. In a way, Turkish women have the best of both worlds. They are paid careful attention to by fathers, brothers, and potential boyfriends, while maintaining the level of independence that women in non-patriarchal families enjoy. The role of women in Turkey can be very influential in the region and in the Muslim world. Turkey is the perfect example of how the patriarchal family structure can exist along side of independent women.
Turkey’s economy is also very modern and becoming more so every year. The country is gaining world attention for the progress that it has made and takes great pride in the direction that it is headed. The success of the Turkish economy is a big deal, considering the ups and downs it has suffered in its history. The fall of the Ottoman Empire devastated the country, and even some of Istanbul’s most well off families lost everything they had known. “Great as the desire to westernize and modernize may have been, the more desperate wish was probably to be rid of all of the bitter memories of the fallen empire” (Pamuk 2005: 29). Although very modern and upscale in areas, I was surprised to find that Pamuk’s description of the streets of Istanbul still holds true today. The remnants of the Empire may not be as prevalent, but you can still see that part of the Ottoman past lingering. Turkey’s economy may be its key to the future. It will enable the people to decide their fate, and they need not be used by either the west or east. The economy of Turkey today is booming, and contributing factors include average age of the workforce, agriculture, and tourism. Turkey uses the strength of its economy as one of its primary marketing tools in becoming respected on the world stage. A Turkish website, invest.gov.tr, reports that it is one of the world’s few countries that is self-sufficient in food and is a major exporter of agricultural goods to the world. The Turkish government markets this strength to the world and attempts to attract international investors to Turkey by highlighting its young workforce, geographical location, and cumulative GDP increase of 122 percent in the last four years. As a candidate for membership to the EU, Turkey is proud to boast that she surpasses most European economies, as 17th in the world, and has the 4th largest workforce in comparison to 27 European countries with almost 25 million people in 2006.Turkey is not only redefining the work force and its ability to dominate regional competitors, but is also raking in tourist dollars. Turkishpress.com reported that in January and February of this year alone, Turkey hosted 1.7 million tourists. Further, the country’s reputation as a new and exciting place to visit, has attracted much more attention than just the traveling families of Europe. The cultural Attaché for Turkey in the US reported in 2005 that the city of Istanbul has hosted more than 60,000 conference delegates and millions of leisure travelers. The Turkish government released statistics the same year stating that Turkey has seen a rise in American tourism because of the familiarity of Europe and the intrigue of Asia. They report that the rise is nearly 48 percent, or 400,000 Americans. This figure is nearly the pre-September 11th figures. Istanbul has been named the European Capital of Culture and will celebrate this title in 2010, furthering the reputation of a land that represents all, and continuing to draw attention and visitors from all over the world.
Another aspect of Turkish life that I became familiar with while traveling is the notion of negotiating the price. This happens EVERYWHERE! I was expecting this to be the norm in any of the bazaars or with street vendors, but never expected it to take place in nice restaurants or at a hair salon. It is my hope for Turkey that this element of society, and the way in which merchants interact with tourists, does not harm the reputation of the country. Now it is seen as fun, exciting, and full of new things to offer. Western travelers may be turned off by the idea that the country is in such financial distress (something that is not true) and that tourist will be hassled at every turn. A negative reputation such as this would be similar to that of Mexico, and could possibly put off potential travelers from going to Turkey. Economy is huge for Turkey, and it will define the country’s ability to have world influence and independence. When it comes to potential EU membership for Turkey there is irony in the fact that the EU would hold Turkey to incredibly high standards in order to achieve membership, but Turkish economy has already outpaced many of the Union’s economies. The Turks could use this bargaining chip to entice the EU, or also use it to scare the pants off of them and continue on its way to being an influential world player.
The potential Turkish EU membership is based on all of the elements I have referred to in this paper and experienced while visiting Istanbul. Would EU membership cause Turkey to Westernize beyond recognition in order to be accepted by Europeans? Can it remain unique and bring Muslim culture into the world spotlight, helping to end western negative misconceptions about Islam? Turkey’s membership would allow Westerners to see Muslim people in a new light. They would see very quickly that stereotypes are just as ridiculous as some of the ones that Europeans battle. “The question of anti-Muslim stereotypes looms especially large today in terms of sheer numbers. The world Muslim population is well over 1 billion. Why, then, would it be so natural for non-Muslims to assume that all Muslims are and act the same, regardless of the conditions in which they live? (Earnst 2003:13). This is where Turkey’s influence will be so valuable. The Turkish people will have the opportunity to shine a light on Muslim society in a way that Europeans and Americans have never experienced.
Turkey could help stabilize the region as a member of EU by bringing democracy closer to Middle Eastern countries. Its geographical location makes it a natural mediator between East and West, but by gaining admission to the EU it stands to lose credibility with Middle Eastern countries. They may think that Turkey has “sold out” and abandoned eastern heritage for financial gain. This may not create a desired outcome in the region. An independent Turkey can be a better mediator between the East and the West, and it can model democratic principles to the area, as well as provide a place that Westerners learn about Muslim tradition. These actions would be more effective in healing the region than just brining democracy to the doorstep of the Middle East.
Finally, membership would force turkey to become fully democratic and end the reported human rights violations that occur. This would be great for the country and bring religious freedom, while solidifying the peoples’ desire for a secular society. The end to devlet would be a positive and the idea that “state” could again be a trusted to lead and not oppress Turkey. The people would be free to create the state that they want, and it would be able to evolve as they saw fit. Turkish people could finally enjoy a state they could openly critique and defend it. The involvement by Turkish citizens would also lead to an increased sense of civic duty.
Government, women’s rights, religious freedoms, human rights, and the economy are all reasons to watch Turkey carefully. Turkey is a nation in search of her identity and she is on the brink of finding it. When that day comes the country and her people will be a force to be reckoned with. The direction the country decides to go is important for the world. I will continue to watch Turkey’s progress in finding the identity that they lack. It will be fun to return to a Turkey that has fewer contradictions within society, and I will be interested in learning how the people reached the decisions to come. It may be awhile before I am able to return to the streets of Istanbul, but I am certain that each time I will discover more about history, culture, and religious politics that has made the country what it is today and what it can become tomorrow.