Memoirs of Istanbul

Turkey is a nation that has its fair share of problems, like any other civilized country in the world, but the difference with Turkey is that it has more potential than any other country in the world as well. This nation, The Republic of Turkey, was born from the vision of one man, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, with the belief that democracy was not a movement of the West, but a movement towards the future. (Zurcher 1998, 192)
Under his administration, Turkey took leaps forward in the direction of secularism and modernism. This type of leadership was exactly what Turkey needed to start their transition from the old world into the new world. The problem is that they are still stuck some where in the middle, not yet making it out the other side. Stephen Kinzer said it perfectly in the opening chapter of his book, Crescent and Star, ”This dissonance, this clash between what the entrenched elite wants and what more and more Turks want, is the central fact of life in modern Turkey. It frames the country’s great national dilemma. Until this dilemma is somehow resolved, Turkey will live in eternal limbo, a half-democracy taking half-steps toward freedom and fulfilling only half its destiny.”(Kinzer 2001, 12) A nation that is plagued with political problems stemming from religious beliefs and values is stuck between the old and new and this is the main hindrance in the secularization of Turkey.
The AK Party, which is in power right now, holds the nation back as they try and move Turkey in the direction of a Muslim nation, by religion and law. Turkey is a nation that, with the right leadership, could take the world by storm and plunge them back onto the center of the map as a nation of power. However over the past century, corruption and extreme religious leaders have taken this idea of a free and complete Turkey and they have screwed and contorted it into something that keeps them in power, and keeps Turkey in the shadows of becoming great, not quite reaching its potential. “They not only ignore but actively resist intensifying pressure from educated, worldly Turks who want their country to break free of its shackles and complete its march toward the democracy that was Ataturk’s dream.” (Kinzer 2001, 12)
The main issues facing Turkey right now are the interest with the EU and the problems that follow, the growing concern with religion amongst the people, and what the future holds for Turkey and its people. Turkey is a great nation, one that I never understood before I visited, and one that I absolutely love now that I have been there. This is one location in the world that not only could I visit again, but I could actually see myself living there. To me, that is always a good sign.
“Can you imagine that the least European country would become the most powerful country in Europe?” This was a statement by Francois Bayrou, the 4th president of the Union for French Democracy. I heard this statement from a professor during a lecture we attended at Sabanci University, one of the top universities in Turkey. I do not think a lot of people realize the severity of the EU allowing Turkey to enter. If it were to enter the Union, Turkey would be the 2nd largest country within the EU, only to fall behind Germany. Turkey has been talking to the EU for entrance since 1987, that’s over twenty years that Turkey has been changing its laws and regulations, trying to fit into this western mold to become the 28th member, while the EU continues to pressure the Turkish government to even more conformity. From what I’ve read and heard while in Turkey, this nation has almost bent itself over backwards trying to conform to what they believe is the future of Turkey. With the population decreasing in the EU dramatically and Turkey’s population on the rise, by 2020 Turkey will hold more seats in Parliament than Germany, giving Turkey more power than I believe Europe is ready to give them. That would make the deciding force a Muslim nation, which does not sound good in the ears of the EU “Christian Club.” Another problem is the fact that Turkey is connected to the Middle East. Some believe that if Turkey joined the EU, it may help settle some of the ongoing tensions in the region. While others believe that allowing a nation so close to the Middle East in, would only spill the problem onto other nations, and into the hands of the EU. With many other problems documented by the EU, and what seems like many more years before any progress is made, I sense an almost loss of interest by most Turkish people. However, Turkish interest in Europe is very large, as well as European interest towards Turkey. The image of Turkey as a unified super state in Western Europe is very possible, and very likely. (Zurcher 1998, 341) “Of this Europe of the future, Turkey will undoubtedly form a part.” (Zurcher 1998, 341) Kinzer also talks about how the integration into the EU is a psychological process for Turks. “For each of the more than a dozen countries that are waiting to join the European Union, the appeal of membership is political, social, and economic. For Turkey it is also psychological.” (Kinzer 2001, 232) He goes on to talk about how the main question for Turks today is if they are even ready for a full democracy. In my reflection of what I have learned, they are as ready as they ever will be.
Turkey is in a difficult part of the world, and I believe they can be the saving grace for that part of the world as well. Being a nation that bridges the gap between Asia and Europe, literally, gives Turkey easy access to a lot of different styles of government and influence from many areas. What needs to happen is the government and military take this influence and apply it in a positive way. The military in Turkey, which is required by every male citizen at some point in their life, has a lot of influence on everything that goes on in Turkey, and has even staged a few coups to overthrow the regime in power and restore the balance. (Kinzer 2001, 17) This type of militaristic rule really keeps Turkey from ever going over the edge.
While I was staying in a Hostel in Istanbul, one the workers and I started discussing the Military and how everyone feels about it. He said to me, “The point where the military begins is the same point where common sense stops,” referring to his 15 months served in the armed forces. He talked about how the military made him sign papers stating the he would not jump off of a balcony. Then the next paper he had to sign was one that stated if he did jump out of a balcony, he would not get hurt. This is one of a few first hand stories I have heard from Turkish citizens about their military experience, and most had only partial feelings about their experience, and mainly felt that the military should be left to those who attend the military academies.
Those that attend the military academies usually grow up to be the future leaders of the country, politically and militaristically. (Kinzer 2001, 19) This can progressively help the future state of the nation, because these individuals will be taught in a democratic society that knows a democratic society. That will take time though; learning how to run a democratic nation can not be taught and learned in a decade, or even a few decades. It takes time, for every one of every position to learn how and when to change things in the democratic process, to fit the needs of their own country. It will take leadership and wisdom of individuals that have experience in a democratized setting. One major problem with the advancement of Turkey is the under-developed thought and realism about democracy that the older Turk generation has. They have democracy, but they don’t know what to do with it. What I compare it to is the way I describe soccer in the United States. Why do we not compare to the rest of the world? Our nation did not consider it a norm until recent decades. In result, the coaches that you have teaching the game were not raised on the game; they picked it up when their kid started some local Rec league. Continued for a few years, and decided to take it seriously. I think the U.S. will be able to compete on an international level when our generation, that grew up playing and learning, is able to take the reins and give their lifelong input as a seasoned veteran of the game. This is how Turkey is and the way they deal with democracy. The current generation of older people in this country did not grow up with democracy at its fullest. There was democracy, but there was also soccer in the U.S. in the twenties. Just because it was there doesn’t mean it was popular. It doesn’t help unless you have played with it a little, learned what you could, and then formed it into something that can be passed down, the right way. Once the younger generation, which is being exposed to some much freedom and democratic rule all over the world, grows up and takes charge of this nation. That is when Turkey will finally be able to take democracy and put cities like Istanbul, back on the map as a major player in the world. We, the U.S. citizens that is, see Turkey right now being very muddled, and I believe the future of Turkey can really influence the way our citizens view this part of the world, and set a precedent for other nations that we do not understand. This generational influence can bring about a new Turkish Republic that gives all other nations a rival in every market and every business.
Turkish culture and cuisine was two of my favorite things while I was in Istanbul. The cuisine was a true description of the culture, and you could taste the exotic spices in every meal. I was very surprised to find that there were only a few meals that I did not like. Pretty much everything I ate was undeniably exquisite. Of course, there were a few things that I did not enjoy, but I was open to eating anything. In Turkish culture there are a few things that you must try while you are there, unfortunately one of them is raki. Raki is the national drink. It is very liquorish tasting beverage that Turks enjoy almost everyday. They say that their founding father, Ataturk, died because of his obsession to Raki. (Kinzer 2001, 29) Kinzer has a great way to relate Raki, food, and the destiny of Turkey all into two sentences. “With raki always comes meze, small plates of food that appear stealthily, a few at a time. Theoretically, meze are appetizers leading to a main course, but often the main course, like Turkey’s supposedly great destiny, never materializes.” (Kinzer 2008, 31) The reflection of culture within the cuisine helped me understand better how Turkey defines itself. When you would go to a restaurant, the menu would have two sections to choose from, Turkish food, and Ottoman food. This to me was great because it showed that even though they are no longer under Ottoman rule, the parts of the Empire that created the Turkish culture were still around. They could just say, this is all Turkish food, and there is no difference in the two. However, they embrace the history that put them where they are today. Well, at least the culinary part of it.
A major issue facing Turkey, and this is spoken about everyday, is religion. Not so much about Muslim and Christian getting along, but more along the lines of Muslim and Muslim getting along. A recent article in the May 29th edition of TIME Magazine speaks about the reemergence of many Alevi groups in the nation. These groups used to have to meet in secrecy and fly under the radar for many years. Just recently have the Alevi Muslims come out and started practicing freely and publicly. The Alevi Muslims have very different views than that of the Sunni’s. They practice rituals that stem from pre-Islamic times. Turgut and Thornburgh state that they are Muslim, but their doctrine is unflinchingly progressive, favoring things like gay rights, abortion, and equal opportunities for women. “God”, they like to say, “Resides in people, not in mountains or stones.” (Turgut and Thornburgh 2008, 17) The article talks about how the Turkish government accepts and even helps fund mosques and gathering area for Sunni Muslims. But when an Alevi petitioned for monetary funds from the state, to which they are entitled to, a lawmaker denied access to funds and gave this statement, “If you give the Alevi’s funding…will you give groups like Satanists the same tomorrow.” (Turgut and Thornburgh 2008, 17) This is exactly the type of problems that the AK Party is making for themselves, which in turn hurts the nation by not embracing everyone. They allow every other religion to practice, and even fund every single one of them, but show discard and disgust for certain types or sects of religions. These Alevi’s have had to practice in secret, while pretending to be a Sunni for centuries. (Turgut and Thornburgh 2008, 17) This is a major problem facing the nation if the advancement of Turkey is to be one of a nation of no national religion, with freedom of any religion. The article states that as recently as 1993, 37 people, including prominent Alevi poets, writers and musicians, were killed in a fire set by a fundamentalist Sunni mob in a hotel in Eastern Turkey. These are the types of acts that put a blockade in the cohesion of the nation. The state should openly embrace this and every sect of every religion, and not distinguish what fund should be given to whom. If the nation, as a whole, wants to grow up and compete with the big boys, this is definitely one of the major social problems that need to be fixed before a complete modernization can happen. Pertaining to the problem with the Turkish government and how they feel about the Alevi Muslims, an Alevi leader named Muharrem Ercan feels the Alevi’s are on the winning side. “We solved the issue of whether Islam could be tolerant 750 years ago,” he says, “It’s the rest of Turkey that has to catch up.” (Turgut and Thornburgh 2008, 17)
Overall, my trip to Turkey taught me a lot about Muslim people and how they live. America looks down upon Muslims, mainly because of the extremist groups that commit terrorism on the U.S. and many other countries, but also because we do not understand there culture and why things are the way they are. However, there is a certain openness that Muslims have about them, they are willing to talk and share about life and their culture. Especially in Turkey, I did not meet one individual that was not an open book waiting to tell their story. My trip to turkey showed me the opposite end of the stick from what I know and see in everyday life, and I was happy to find out that I liked that other end of the stick. It should me flaws and problems within my own culture that can be fixed, mainly in the family sector. I am glad I went to Turkey, there is no doubt in that; there definitely is an order to the chaos over there that you start to understand after a few days: the honking from the cabs, the bargaining in the Bazaar, and even the language, a little. I can truly see Turkey as being a nation that can influence and inspire anyone, even a no name college student from Orlando, Fl. But I’ll take this influence and inspiration with me for the rest of my life, and can only hope that one day, I can sit and drink tea on the Bosphorus again.

This last bit is what I wrote as I rode the Havaş from Taksim to the airport at 1:30 in the morning. I typed it on my phone, but I eventually had to stop because it was making me car sick. It was kind of a last will and testament to the city and its people as I was leaving.
As I leave Turkey, I think back about the great experiences that I have had, the things I have done, and the people that I have met. All of them took a great piece of me with them. Leaving here reminds me that seasons change, friends move away, you grow up, and the world never stops turning, no matter how hard you want it to. I understand now why family is such an important part of Turkish life. The great institution of family and family duty makes Turkey keep what a lot of families, all over the world, always hope for but can never find. The cohesion and servitude of the Turkish family stretches past any barrier, ocean, or dotted line on a map. Turkey is just one big family with many branches stemming out, but unified at the trunk by all 71 million citizens. Kurds, Turks, Syrians, Armenians, even those that still prefer the ottoman way, they are all just one big family tree. The great thing about it is that you can call upon anyone of any branch to help you when you need them. This was shown in the kindness and courtesy that was displayed to each and every one of us everyday. As I leave Istanbul, my route takes me across the Golden Horn and through the busy streets that are still packed with people even this late at night (1 a.m.). As I head back to my western world and way of life, I take many things back with me: A small Turkish vocab, a few gifts for friends and family, a changed view of Turkish culture, and my own version of a Turkish family, four KU students and a KU professor. These five individuals made studying abroad not about writing and deadlines, but more like a family vacation. The experiences we had with each other were fun, exciting, and many were down right hilarious. I will take these thoughts and memories with me for the rest of my life. And to the five of you, I thank you, because you made this Florida boy feel right at home as a Jayhawk (even though I’ll always be a Knight). So in closing I can only think of one thing to say which would be appropriate. Ben, Christina, Beth, Stephanie, and Elif…..Şerefe.