Christianity in a Muslim Nation

Before coming to Turkey, I was expecting to visit places that are important in the history of Islam and learn more about that faith, but I've been surprised by how many places we've visited that are important in the Catholic tradition, which I was raised in. Although I can count the times I've been to Mass in the last five years on one hand (sorry Grandma), I can't help but feel these places are a part of my history.

Constantinople was an important city in the early days of Christianity. Constantine, the man from whom the city got its name, declared the Christian faith the official religion of the empire. The city served as the Eastern capital of the Church, while Rome ruled over the west.

Side by side in Istanbul are the Hagia Sophia and St. Irene's. Dating from the 6th century and 4th century, respectively, both building show the progression of attitudes toward Christianity and religion over time. When the Muslim Ottomans sacked Constantinople, they allowed the church to continue operating, but would store weaponry and artifacts in the building. Now, in secular Turkey, the church is used as a concert hall.


Saint Irene's

Hagia Sophia was such an impressive structure (a topic in and of itself) that the Mehmed the Conqueror had it converted to a mosque, and it remained one until the Republic of Turkey converted it to a museum. In the conversion, the Sultan ordered artists to cover over much of the Christian symbolism. The design the artist used included a fish, an early symbol of Christians, in order to communicate to those in the faith that the Church was still there, even if the building was taken. Looking at the paintings centuries later, it's easy to see what was original and what was the cover up.


Paintings in the Hagia Sophia

By far, the most surprising place to visit was our trip to the final home of the Virgin Mary. She and John the Baptist fled the persecution of early Christians and settled outside Ephesus. As far as tourist attractions go, it isn't much. A cistern, a small stone house, a spring and a wishing wall. It's almost laughable when you compare it to the majesty of the Vatican or the ornate mosaics at Hagia Sophia. But this humble house on the top of a hill thousands of miles from Jerusalem was the greatest reminder of the faith I've visited. To touch the walls built by an old woman who would travel thousands of miles, much of it probably by foot, to flee persecution and spread the word of something she believed in is much more impressive and humbling to me than a thousand gold gilded artifacts or Renaissance artworks.


Mary's final home

This next photo summarizes the dynamic of religions in Turkey. The column in the front marks the Temple of Artemis. It was originally a pagan goddess, but renamed by the Greeks. To the left are the ruins of the Basilica of St John the Baptist, where his remains laid until the Crusades. Immediately to it's left is a mosque, currently in use. Layers upon layers of traditions.